The flute (sprinkler, aquarium rain) is an additional accessory for an external filter, which can be used as a replacement for the standard water discharge system into the aquarium, or as a device that allows you to optimize the return of water purified by the filter to the reservoir. This is a small tube with holes that is mounted on the filter spout in the place where the water is discharged.
The main function of the sprinkler is to break up a narrowly directed heavy water flow. It cuts the general stream of water into separate streams. Thus, a flute is needed:
- in densely planted aquariums,
- in containers with inhabitants that do not tolerate flow of water,
- if the filter is too powerful.
Factory flute or do it yourself
You can purchase a ready-made, factory-made flute, or you can make it yourself. Factory sprinklers usually consist of several sections, so they can be installed in aquariums of various sizes. They are sold unassembled, and the attached instructions detail the assembly and installation procedures.
When choosing a sprinkler, you should pay attention to the quality of the plastic from which the product is made: it must be non-toxic and not release harmful substances into the water. Also examine the tube for sharp edges: if there are any, this indicates a low quality product and can lead to damage to the inhabitants of the reservoir.
Quite often, aquarists make a flute with their own hands, since it does not require a lot of energy and money. It is enough to purchase a tube/hose, plugs and suction cups with which the sprinkler will be attached to the aquarium. All that remains is to make holes in the tube (the size and frequency depend on the tasks that must be solved with the help of this device), secure it to one of the walls of the aquarium - and the sprinkler is ready!
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AERATION
Although aeration and filtration can be done independently of each other, the two processes are combined in this section because Many filters are equipped with a built-in device for saturating the aquarium water with oxygen. If we want to recreate in an aquarium the natural conditions for the biotopes of our ornamental fish, then we must proceed from the fact that most fish live in flowing, fast or moderate water. Even if the main part of the flow is characterized by high speed, fish still live in areas where resistance to fast water does not require much effort from them. We are now talking about a freshwater aquarium. When keeping marine fish, the situation is completely different, so these different environments are not even worth comparing. During aeration, vortex currents are formed on the surface of the water, which facilitate the absorption of oxygen and the removal of carbon dioxide. The concentration of oxygen dissolved in water is directly dependent on the population of the aquarium, its depth, water surface area, lighting conditions, water temperature and some other factors. Aquatic plants play a huge role in maintaining normal oxygen conditions in the aquarium. In large aquariums that are well planted and contain a relatively small number of fish, self-sufficiency in oxygen is possible, since it is produced in sufficient quantities as a result of photosynthesis. At first glance, its additional supply by aeration, i.e. blowing air through the water is unnecessary. However, in practice, as a rule, a lack of oxygen occurs. The importance of aerating the aquarium water, which is done using special compressors that blow air through it from sprayers, is not only about saturating the water with oxygen. Aeration, among other things, causes mixing of water layers with the help of air bubbles, helps to equalize the temperature in the aquarium at all its levels, and especially if the water is artificially heated, eliminates sudden changes in water temperature both horizontally and vertically. This is all the more significant because the higher the temperature of the water, the less oxygen dissolves in it. The circulation of water created by a powerful air flow simulates certain environmental conditions that are necessary for various types of aquarium fish. Aeration of aquarium water helps to increase soil flow, ensures the creation of the necessary conditions for the normal functioning of soil bacteria, which prevents the accumulation and decay of organic residues and thereby the formation of gases harmful to fish such as ammonia, methane and hydrogen sulfide.
Practical advice: The smaller the bubbles and with the same amount of air, the larger the surface of the aquarium, the more oxygen dissolves in the water. However, compressed air nozzles with fine pores present greater resistance to the air flow and require higher pressure. Therefore, they are often content with a more powerful stream of relatively large air bubbles. In this case, the role of purging is mainly reduced to mixing the water in the aquarium, and its saturation with oxygen occurs mainly due to the contact of the surface layer of water with air, which is continuously replaced as a result of circulation. Systems for blowing water with air consist of a compressor, sprayers and tees connecting tubes and clamps. Currently, piston and vibration compressors are common, the latter being larger, the power of which ranges from 5 to 20 W. These compressors produce almost no noise.
Another practical tip: You can reduce the noise of the compressor by placing an additional foam rubber shock absorber under it. In most of our aquariums, the flow created by the filter provides the necessary water movement. Whether the electric pump takes over the transportation of water or the airlift does it is a secondary matter. In practice, there are two methods of directing filtration water into the aquarium: it is sprayed under a water mirror over as wide a surface area as possible, and here the water can absorb a sufficiently large amount of oxygen, or an electric pump pumps the water coming from the filter inside the tank itself, below the surface. In the second case, the water cannot receive air from the surface, and then this most important process, namely the access of oxygen, must be carried out in a different way. In devices operating on the basis of a piston drive, a stream of air is driven through an air duct connected to one or more nozzles, broken into bubbles and pushed through the voids of the diffuser material. These bubbles create the appearance of purging, but the actual process occurs when the bubble rises to the surface of the water. Once again we would like to remind you that the smaller the bubbles, the better.
FILTRATION
The main task of the filter is to maintain water in good condition; the vital activity of fish, invertebrates and plants depends on this. If you take care of the water, the water will in turn take care of the aquarium plants and animals. Therefore, before purchasing a filter, you need to understand the very essence of the filtration process. In all, even properly equipped and balanced aquariums, the water must be purified from dirt particles, food residues, mucus and accumulated metabolic products; if dirt accumulates on the bottom and plants, the water becomes cloudy, especially if the aquarium is inhabited by fish that burrow in the ground. In certain cases, water purification should be considered necessary, especially in overcrowded aquariums, nursery aquariums with large numbers of juvenile fish, and in aquariums containing fish sensitive to organic matter or burrowing fish. The water in aquariums is purified using filters. The principle of operation of the filters is based on the following: air bubbles, passing through a thin tube, capture water with them, which, passing through the filler - a filter element located at the bottom or in the ground, leaves suspended particles in it and, having been purified, returns to the aquarium. In most aquarium filters, water circulation is carried out by the movement of air bubbles pumped by a compressor. In large reservoirs with a large number of large fish burrowing in the ground, it is advisable to use centrifugal filters with an autonomous motor. For mechanical purification of water from suspended particles in all types of filters, filler is used - sand, nylon thread, foam rubber, and other porous neutral materials. Currently, there are filters that not only purify aquarium water from turbidity, but at the same time are a kind of regulator of the chemical composition of the water. These filters use ion exchange resin, peat chips, activated carbon, and other materials as filter media. Thus, for effective purification of water rich in organic substances, it is advisable to use activated carbon as a filler, especially in aquariums with juveniles. The choice of filter depends both on the size of the aquarium and on the number and sensitivity of the fish living in it. In principle, there are two types of filtration: internal and external. What types of filters are there: - bottom filters, installed on the ground or inside it. - internal, mounted on the inner wall of the aquarium. - external, standing separately from the aquarium or attached to the outer wall of the aquarium. So let's look at these filters in order: Bottom filter.
These filters have certain advantages. By creating water movement in the soil, these filters contribute to the development of beneficial soil microflora. However, a bottom filter can function normally only when the soil has sufficient drainage properties. If the funnel is located in the ground, it is buried in coarse gravel or small pebbles, between which large particles get stuck, but small ones pass through. In dense soil, water does not circulate well enough, and this can lead to the accumulation of rotting products, and the latter, in turn, to the formation of toxic gases. Maintenance of bottom filters is associated with inconvenience, since the filter media must be cleaned at least 2-3 times a year. There are two options for bottom filtration: the “flow” principle, when purified water is pumped into the ground and rises from there, and the “suction” principle, when dirty water is absorbed by the filter through the ground. Soil filtration is not a new idea, but it is being done with great success these days thanks to electric filter pumps. Internal filter.
These filters are simpler and more convenient to use. This filter is a sprayer that is located inside a foam chamber located at the bottom. To clean it, just remove the foam cover, rinse it, wring it out and put it on again. The main benefit of internal filtration is that it happens on site and dirt is collected and removed right inside the water tank. The filter itself, if you don’t want to look at it again, can be covered with snags or stones. When a cartridge becomes clogged, it can be removed and cleaned without stirring up much dirt. If the filter tank is quite large, then rot and crumbs often accumulate directly under it. Then you need to act very carefully so that all the dirt does not spread throughout the aquarium again. A prerequisite for the normal operation of filters of any type, but especially internal ones, is their regular cleaning. The point is that internal filters only accumulate dirt, but it is not excluded from the general circulation and continues to decompose. External filter.
These filters are the most difficult to manufacture, but they are more convenient to use. Their filter media is located outside the aquarium. As mentioned above, to clean an aquarium with fish that are sensitive to the content of organic substances in the water, the filter is filled with activated charcoal. External filters with a substrate containing microorganisms are considered the most effective when keeping fish sensitive to various types of pollution. Unlike internal filters, external filters are placed next to the aquarium or hung on its outside. If such a tank hangs on the side of the aquarium wall and is open at the top, then the water level in it and in the aquarium must certainly be the same. A curved connecting tube, by the way, must be filled with water in advance, without allowing air, pulls filtered water out of the chamber, driving it back into the tank (the principle of communicating vessels, when the water level in them is compared due to the connecting tube). In combination with an air pump, you can operate a large filter in the same way (it can be no smaller in size than the aquarium itself). This is often practiced for large installations because it significantly reduces costs. For home aquariums, such filters are, of course, too large, and therefore aquarists most often use small external filters driven by a motor. But in addition, you can resort to the help of a so-called large-sized biofilter. Then the water flow will not be so fast, and the general circulation is ensured using an airlift of a more powerful caliber.
Electrical external filter.
And finally, a little about electrical external filters. The term “external” in relation to these filters means that they are located next to or under the aquarium. There are different types and, more importantly, different powers of these filters. Therefore, when choosing such a filter for an aquarium of a certain size, you need to take into account not only the volume of the filter tank, but also the power of its motor. The filter resistance here plays a more significant role in its overall power than with other types of cleaning structures. The newly installed filter mass provides water with free passage, and together with contamination (for example, cotton wool), the amount of water flowing through the filter may decrease. In order to save energy, many pump manufacturers have found it necessary to reduce the pressure power and, accordingly, the performance of their products. In principle, we must assume that water flows through the filter tank located in the cabinet under the aquarium, and the water column in the supply pipe corresponds to the water level in the tank. Thus, the pump theoretically requires only the pressure necessary to convey filtered water into the aquarium over its edge. The following table gives some guidelines, which takes into account the volume of tanks. *click on image to enlarge*
Each manufacturer has its own sets of various connections, shut-off valves, T-shaped bent tubes, siphons, etc. For cleaning the filter tanks themselves, so-called quick-release couplings with two shut-off valves are especially convenient; The water stops and the tank is removed for cleaning, without the need to disconnect all the parts. Suction filters with an integrated heating system and a built-in electronic temperature sensor have also been developed. When using such filters, heating with conventional appliances is not required. These electric external filters, quite large in size, can be used for chemical (coal), mechanical (sand, cotton wool), as well as combined water purification. Changing or cleaning the filter mass should be as simple as possible, so some companies produce their devices with so-called two-valve quick-release connections, and use precisely fitted hose parts for bends.
Biological filtration
The prefix “bio” means the same as “life”. In connection with water filtration, it indicates that toxic substances of organic or inorganic origin are transformed or broken down inside the filter, mainly with the help of living organisms. These processes involve mainly aerobic bacteria - tiny living organisms whose activity is due to the rich oxygen content in the water. When designing such a filter, water is given the opportunity to frequently absorb oxygen, which benefits bacteria.
The biofilter must provide the bacteria with a substrate and water with a high oxygen content. The figure shows a diagram of a flow filter, where water, having passed through the compartment with granulate, is conducted through the upper edge of the wall into the intermediate chamber and at the same time absorbs oxygen. Biofilters are either flow-through or irrigation. It is believed that the latter are more effective, that is, they provide better conditions for the work of bacteria, because the water, seeping in streams, is more enriched with oxygen. But due to the rapid evaporation of water, an irrigation tank with a large surface area is not suitable in this case; here a cylinder is rather needed, as shown in our figure. In practice, irrigation has one significant drawback for aquarium keeping: if suddenly the supply of oozing water is interrupted for any reason (clogged system, cutoff of power supply to the pump), the bacterial cultures will dry out and die; The granulate will also dry out. This cannot happen with a flow filter, because even in the most extreme case, the filter container and all its contents will remain in the water.
Scheme of a vertical irrigation filter. Since too much water evaporates from the surface of irrigation filters if they expand horizontally, we propose a filter design where the granules are located at different levels in a solid PVC housing. Water seeps through a certain layer of granulate and drips into the lower floor. The shut-off valve located at the very bottom makes it possible to fill the filter with water if the pump fails, and thereby avoid drying out (and therefore the death of bacteria). Bacteriological processes also occur in other types of filters, in their filter masses. But if there is not enough oxygen in their containers, then not aerobic, but anaerobic bacteria appear, and they do not need free oxygen, moreover, free oxygen would be a deadly poison for them. Anaerobic bacteria do not completely break down toxic substances, and under certain conditions they can even form toxic compounds. A typical anaerobic product is sapropel (silt deposits of organic matter), which settles to the bottom of filter tanks if they are rarely cleaned, and occurs naturally in polluted rivers. Therefore, it is recommended to aerate the water even in biological filters. Mechanical filter media Mechanical filters are designed to remove coarse contaminants that are most often visible to the naked eye from aquarium water. First of all, these include suspensions. One of the most common materials for mechanical filtration is perlon wool. It completely replaced the heavy masses - sand and gravel - that were used before from our filter tanks. Many manufacturers offer filter cartridges molded from such cotton wool: the cartridges fit into tanks produced by the same company, or, in any case, they can be adapted to such. When cleaning aquarium water from especially small particles, diatomaceous earth filters are used. Diatomaceous earth is used as a filter mass for diatomaceous earth filters. This very fine yellowish-cream earthen mass is composed of flint shells of fossil diatoms (microscopic algae). The filter tank (glass vessel) is equipped with a powerful pump: the filter resistance, due to the weak throughput of diatomaceous earth, is higher here than in other filters. Anyone who wants to especially carefully treat the water in their aquarium (achieving special transparency or reducing the number of parasites and bacteria, or completely destroying them for the purpose of breeding fish) purposefully connects this filter for many hours. In this case, we are talking about purely mechanical filtration, which does not affect either the water parameters or chemical additives (medicines). Since this filter traps the smallest particles, it quickly becomes clogged. The soil needs to be washed and then used again. FILTER MATERIALS Chemical filter materials The purpose of chemical filtration is to trap toxic (or potentially toxic) molecules found in water. But no matter how good the absorbing filter masses are, they only “bind” these substances. The aquarist himself has to remove them, cleaning the filter and, finally, removing the masses saturated with toxic substances. Adsorption is the process by which solutes are absorbed by the surface layer of a liquid or solid. The most famous adsorption material used in aquarium farming is activated carbon. The effect of coal is ensured by its exceptionally porous structure, that is, a large surface area. Activated carbon can have a high degree of effectiveness. In addition to toxic compounds, it also absorbs acids (peat), various dyes and medications, and therefore filtration using carbon cannot be combined with the addition of acids or medications. Dirt is the worst enemy of activated carbon and its porous surface. Therefore, the carbon filter must certainly occupy the last place in the overall filter chain, and all mechanical cleaning processes must be carried out in advance. If the coal is clogged and clogged with dirt particles, there is no point in using it. Not every aquarist succeeds in working with activated carbon, because it must first be “tamed”! If coal is used simply as a powder, it will begin to scatter and float on the surface of the water. For this reason, many manufacturers offer so-called cartridge filters for their products: their outer shell consists of a mechanical filter material (perlon wool), and the inner cartridge, on the contrary, is empty and is designed to be filled with coal, peat or other similar filter mass. To prevent the “bulk product” from floating to the surface, you need to place it in a net (a lady’s stocking is also suitable for this) and then send it to the filter tank. Biological filtration Biological filter media, together with the widespread use of so-called biofilters, are attracting increasing attention. First of all, inexpensive lavalite (lava chips of different grain sizes), pumice and other natural materials with a porous structure and a correspondingly large surface area are used. The trade also offers not very cheap “bioballs”, intended primarily for irrigation filters as a filler. These bioballs are made of plastic and, strictly speaking, are not balls, but spherical frames. They are placed one above the other as a filling product, and they provide a substrate for bacterial growth, while also having a high drainage capacity. Bacteria can multiply at incredible speeds: these tiny organisms have the ability to double in size within half an hour. Often the bacteria form foamy clumps or flakes; this can be observed on the filter substrate. Clusters of masses of bacteria are formed, consisting of thousands of organisms, which produce mucus. The formation of such accumulations is facilitated by the high oxygen content in the filtered water. It is these bacteria that break down toxic substances, converting them into harmless compounds during metabolism. Biological filter media include: Ceramic tubes Lavalite Granulate (Tunze) Peat filters Peat filtration is a phrase rooted in the aquarium hobby, but strictly speaking, it is not entirely correct. After all, the filter, as you know, should retain something, and if it is filled with peat, then, on the contrary, it releases something to the aquarium water! Many tropical waters are more or less acidic. We are talking about humic acids, which are released by wood and foliage. These organic acids can be introduced into the aquarium by directly adding humic extracts or by passing water through the peat to absorb the substances it contains. A wide variety of peat varieties are available for sale. But peat for an aquarium is different from peat for a garden, because the latter often contains fertilizers, and it is in no way suitable for aquarium water. Peat is a natural product, and no matter what it is - loose or dense, after a few weeks it is washed out and more gives nothing; it needs to be replaced. Water, which is enriched with humic substances, passing through peat, acquires a special color, from brownish to amber. But its shade does not say anything about the presence of acids and their characteristics. Acid reduces the pH value to a neutral point (= 7.0), and therefore it makes sense to establish constant monitoring of pH values when using peat. Peat also serves to reduce the carbonate hardness inherent in most types of water. In addition, acidic water keeps the number of bacteria within certain limits, which benefits the skin of many species of fish: bite wounds do not become inflamed under the influence of bacteria. On the other hand, many species of ornamental fish are known that originate from particularly clean and acidic waters: with the help of peat, they find themselves at least approximately in conditions close to natural. Practical advice: In order for your filter to function properly, it must be cleaned regularly and the used filler must be replaced in a timely manner. Usually, it is best to clean the filter at the time when you change the water and siphon the soil, this happens once a week. Filters that are not cleaned for a long time themselves become a source of harmful and toxic substances, especially dangerous for fish species that are sensitive to the composition of the water.
Why do you need a flute in an aquarium?
When deciding on the use of a sprinkler, you need to focus on your aquarium: volume, what fish live in it, vegetation, presence or absence of CO2 supply, how the supply is carried out, what is the purpose of installing the flute, etc.
The flute successfully solves the problem of more uniform distribution of water flow, which reduces the flow. By placing it above the water, you get a big plus in the form of oxygen saturation of the water. However, the disadvantages of such an installation are:
- loss of CO2;
- spray;
- gurgling sound, which can be annoying, especially when the aquarium is in the bedroom.
In any case, you should not install Niagara Falls in your aquarium, since the strong current can cause discomfort in the fish and also cause algae.
Questions that arise for those who decide to install a sprinkler in an aquarium
The main debate in favor and against the installation of a flute is around the supply of CO2 when it comes to the herbalist. Here you should find out in what cases an additional supply of carbon dioxide is necessary:
- if the aquarium is planted with difficult-to-care, demanding plants;
- to accelerate plant growth;
- to create the correct habitus, in other words, the correct appearance (if all other necessary conditions are created).
In all other cases, there is no need for additional CO2 supply.
When installed under water, the opposite effect occurs - carbon dioxide is retained in the aquarium, and there is even a high probability of a film forming on its surface.
If you want to reduce the flow even further, you should point the holes of the rain cover towards the back wall of the aquarium.
One way to install a raincoat tube is at an angle, with part of it under water and part above water. Thus, you can solve two problems at once: you will have both water aeration and CO2 preservation.
Flute noise. Yes, if you point the holes upward, the sprinkler will make quite a lot of noise. But by installing them at an angle of approximately 45⁰, you will reduce the noise level to a minimum.
Overview of methods
During the development of aquariums, many methods have been invented to force the supply of oxygen into the water column, and this is very convenient - every aquarist has the opportunity to choose the best aeration option for himself, which would be both cost-effective and quite effective. Globally, all methods of aeration are divided into two large groups - natural and artificial.
Natural
You don’t have to invent anything at all with special equipment, but instead bring the conditions in the aquarium as close as possible to the conditions of a natural reservoir. An aerator would create the same waves, but this is a technique, and without technical devices, the oxygen level can only be increased by planting additional plants. Dense thickets with a relatively small number of inhabitants will help you get by even without any aerators, but you must be sure that your pets do not suffer from a lack of vital gas.
An indicator of the amount of the latter can be snails , which many experienced aquarists breed specifically for this purpose. Unlike fish, these not the most mobile creatures clearly demonstrate whether everything is in order with oxygen levels. They instinctively know that there should be more oxygen in the upper layers than near the bottom, and when oxygen starvation is brewing, they try to move as high as possible - they climb plants and the walls of the container. In a normally aerated reservoir, they would never do this, because their typical habitat is the bottom.
Artificial
For those who do not want to tinker with plants and snails or are simply not sure that this will be enough, there is special equipment in the form of devices that provide aeration in one way or another. There are so many options for organizing the process that you can’t figure it out right away, so we’ll briefly consider them all.
- Compressor. This mechanism, under pressure, pumps air bubbles under the water, causing the liquid to bubble characteristically. Such a device is quite efficient, but its operation cannot be called silent, which is why many novice aquarists consider it possible to turn off the unit at least at night. It is categorically not recommended to do this, since we have already mentioned above that in the dark, plants also begin to consume oxygen, which means that there is very little of it left for the fish.
When choosing a compressor, you must either accept constant bubbling or install the aquarium away from your sleeping areas.
- Sprayers . Typically, such a device is an integral part of the compressor with which it works in tandem, being its attachment. It is necessary to install the sprayers into the ground - thanks to this, air bubbles are pumped to the very bottom and float to the surface for as long as possible. Due to this, the highest efficiency of gas dissolution in liquid is achieved. The sprayers are connected to the compressor using hoses and connectors; it is wise to scatter them over the entire area of the aquarium to make aeration as productive as possible.
- Soil filter. This unit is an alternative to a compressor, since it provides a similar effect using a fundamentally different method. If a compressor pumps oxygen deep into a reservoir, the filter constantly mixes the water flows, creating a current. Due to this, the top layer, saturated with oxygen, goes to the bottom, and oxygen-poor water comes in its place, which greatly accelerates the aeration process.
- Water pump. This complex unit combines the operating principles of both a compressor and a ground filter - it mixes the water and pumps oxygen into it under pressure, passing it directly through the current. The pump can be called “heavy artillery”; it shows the highest efficiency, but at the same time its throughput should not be less than a third of the volume of the aquarium.
- Hydrogen peroxide. You can organize aeration, and urgently, even without electricity - just add hydrogen peroxide to the aquarium. No matter how much you use this liquid, the dosage will always be calculated correctly, since this substance is harmless - in the aquarium it breaks down into the same water and oxygen that we need. Peroxide is usually used either to combat harmful algae growing in conditions of poor aeration, or for urgent resuscitation of fish after oxygen starvation.
Sprinkler location
It is important to understand that when carbon dioxide is supplied, any aeration and strong fluctuations in the water surface are prohibited! In other words, there is no point in installing the flute in a reservoir where carbon dioxide is supplied, since in this case the latter will immediately erode. Also, one should not forget about the principles of balance in an artificial reservoir: the ratio of lighting to the amount of carbon dioxide supplied, to vegetation, etc.
