The principle of operation and features of choosing a filter for an aquarium

Any aquarist should clearly understand that an aquarium is a very small artificial reservoir in which all processes occur instantly. Considering the fact that even experienced aquarists with experience manage to overpopulate their aquarium, without using a good external filter there can be no question of normal biological filtration in an aquarium. So, if you do not want your aquarium inhabitants to suffer from excess ammonia and nitrite, then I advise you to read this article to the end. From it you will learn about the design of external filters for an aquarium, the rules for choosing them, as well as some of the pros and cons of using them.

Types of water filtration

Mechanical filtration

The essence of mechanical filtration is that the filter mechanism purifies the water in the aquarium from small particles of mechanical suspension. By mechanical suspension in an aquarium we usually mean food residues, fish feces and other mechanical particles that are present to one degree or another in the water poured into the aquarium. Mechanical filters are usually suitable for small aquariums up to 70 liters. The design of such filters is usually simple: a motor and a sponge. Aquarium water, passing through a sponge, is cleared of various types of suspensions.

Chemical filtration

The essence of chemical filtration of aquarium water is that the water is purified at a chemical level using an absorbent. The most striking and simple example of a filter media that performs the function of chemical filtration is the well-known carbon. Zeolite is also very popular. Various absorbents that are used in chemical filtration are capable of removing the three most harmful substances present in varying concentrations in any aquarium - ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Biological filtration

Every aquarist must know what biobalance is in an aquarium and what biological filtration is. After all, this is the most important and desired type of filtration by every aquarist. The essence of biological filtration is that water purification in an aquarium is carried out by living organisms - nitrifying aerobic bacteria - which settle in the biological filter filler. These bacteria decompose harmful ammonia into nitrite, and then the resulting nitrite into nitrate, which is used for growth by aquarium plants. Porous materials, most often ceramics, are used as a filler for a biological filter.

Combined filtration

Combined filtration involves simultaneous purification of aquarium water at the biological, chemical and mechanical level.

Since biological filtration is a priority for any aquarist, this article will further discuss external filters for the aquarium, since they best cope with this role.

Which filter is best to choose?

When choosing a similar device in a store, pay attention to what type of filtration they have. These devices are:

1. Mechanical. They will fit perfectly into the space of a small aquarium. Inside them there is a special pump that pumps dirty liquid into the mechanism. Thanks to it, garbage does not reach the fish. Both very large and very small contaminants and suspended matter disappear. There is a tube on the top of the pump that helps release the already filtered liquid into the reservoir.
2. Chemical. The process of cleaning a fish house is carried out using absorbent agents. One of them is particles of activated carbon. Chemical filters absorb impurities from water. Such absorbents have a significant disadvantage - if the material is not replaced with a new one in a timely manner, everything that was previously absorbed can be thrown back into the tank.
3. Biological (another name is biofilters). Such cleaning products are based on bacteria grown on a substrate. One of the most popular is unfired ceramics. Organic waste from aquarium inhabitants loses its toxicity and is converted into less dangerous nitrites. After this, they turn into safe nitrates.

There are also combination filters. They represent several options in one. The most common combination is when a flow-through mechanical filter is combined with activated carbon. Thanks to this design, cleaning becomes more effective.

Advantages of an external filter for an aquarium

1. Large area of ​​material for filtration. This allows for the maximum level of biological filtration due to the large number of aerobic nitrifying bacteria that settle on the sponge.

2. Combined filtration. The external filter bucket allows you to accommodate various absorbent and filter materials, which turns the filter into a combination filter.

3. They do not reduce the volume of water in the aquarium, but, on the contrary, increase it. The external filter hoses and the filter bucket itself contain a certain volume of water, which is added to the total volume of water in the aquarium.

4. Shorter service life. External filters need to be cleaned less often, and this is much easier to do because you don’t have to reach into the aquarium with your hand.

5. Long service life (from two to eight years).

Advantages and disadvantages of internal filters

The advantages of these devices include:

• compactness. There are models with small dimensions that will not take up much space in the aquarium;
• ease of maintenance. Care is quite simple. It is easy for a beginner to handle. Every week you need to wash the filter material and other parts;
• low price. Standard ones with a mechanical type of filtration are quite cheap;
• At the time of purchase, additional functionality is attached to them;
• safety. In the event of a breakdown, water leakage from the tank is excluded;
• water aeration. Oxygen is necessary both for the inhabitants of the aquarium and for additional filtration of water;
• ability to regulate noise level. To make the device quieter, you need to reduce the flow of water passing through the device;
• high performance.

The disadvantages include the following:

• most internal filters cannot be installed in containers larger than 200 liters;
• some models require camouflage when diving;
• not all filters provide a chemical water purification function;
• devices are subject to heavy loads during operation, so they have a short service life.

When choosing an internal filter, you need to take into account the volume of your aquarium, determine the desired noise level, and choose appropriate water purification methods. It is also important to take into account the characteristics of the models and understand which of them will be relevant in a home aquarium.

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When should you start thinking about buying an external filter for your aquarium?

Of course, you can use an external filter for 60 liter jars (just remember to take care that the fish are not sucked into the filter hose), but it is recommended to use external filters in aquariums of 200 liters or more. For 60 liter cans, the use of an external filter is recommended for overcrowding.

When purchasing an external filter for an aquarium, be sure to pay attention to the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the volume of the aquarium for which the filter is intended. Considering the fact that modern external filters have many additional functions, such as water heating and aeration, an ultraviolet nozzle, you should not save on purchasing an external filter for an aquarium.

Direct

Filter general information

A filter in an aquarium is primarily needed for high-quality water purification. The density of living aquarium inhabitants is usually very high. In addition, maintaining the correct balance of the ecosystem in a small closed container is difficult. And it is precisely to prevent fish from swimming in a mixture of their own excrement instead of water and dying that an aquarium filter is needed.

Of course, instead of a filter, you can use the water change method. But in this case, the aquarist will have to make changes every day or every other day, changing about 25-30% of the water. The filter saves both time and effort for the aquarium owner.

External filter fillers for aquarium

As a rule, the soup kit for an external aquarium filter includes the following filter materials:

1. Foam rubber or synthetic winterizer (possibly two materials at once)

2. Ceramics

3. Zeolite or coal

4. Peat

It should be remembered that it is recommended to use charcoal only at the start-up stage of the aquarium, since over time it loses its absorbent properties. After a month and a half, you should replace the compartment with coal with ceramics or foam rubber.

Criterias of choice

There are several signs that you need to pay attention to first when choosing a filter. Let's look at them in detail.

By filtration type

There are three main methods of water filtration.

These include:

1. Mechanical method. Cleaning is carried out using a filler through which water passes, leaving all suspended pollutants in the pores of the material. The material can be a sponge or even a bundle of fishing line. This type is suitable for unpretentious dirty fish - cichlids and goldfish.
2. Biological. It is carried out using objects or fillers coated with a film of beneficial bacteria that break down organic matter. Ideally, colonies of microorganisms will be taken from this particular aquarium that is being cleaned.
3. Chemical. Sorbents are used, most often activated carbon. This material absorbs phosphates, nitrates, and other mineral and organic solutes.

All these methods are simultaneously used only by a canister external filter. Other devices are based on the use of only one of the above methods.

In terms of power and performance

Power and productivity show how much liquid the filter can push through in one hour. On the device and the box in which it is sold, a number is always indicated, 300, 500, 1000 liters per hour and the like. However, it must be taken into account that this indicator is established in the laboratory using perfectly clean, in some cases even distilled, water.

Therefore, do not be surprised that the actual power will be less than that declared by the manufacturer. Because of this, it is recommended to choose a product that is an order of magnitude more powerful. Experienced aquarists advise choosing a device with a strong overstatement. For example, for a capacity of 100 liters, take a filter with a capacity of 1000 liters per hour.

By installation method

According to the design format, three large groups are distinguished.

Types of filters by installation method:

1. External, located on the side or back wall of the aquarium. An external aquarium filter is most often used for very large tanks.
2. Internal, always consists of a pump and a glass.
3. Canister. It is so large that it can only be placed on the floor or inside an aquarium cabinet.
4. Bottom, which looks like a complex interweaving of tubes located at the bottom of the tank.

Most often, for a small container, one internal filter is enough.

According to filler material

Fillers are more relevant for devices based on the mechanical filtration method.

The most popular fillers:

1. Sponge. It is cheap, relatively durable, and absorbs mechanical debris well. After a week, beneficial bacteria settle in the pores of the sponge, and it becomes a kind of biofilter. However, this material must be washed once every two to three weeks so as not to contribute to the proliferation of harmful microorganisms.
2. Activated carbon. When shaken, it can return all the substances accumulated over a long time back into the water, which will kill your pets. Therefore, it needs to be changed frequently. Very effective in chemical cleaning.
3. Multiporous ceramics. It is a kind of biofiller, because beneficial microorganisms settle in the pores of the ceramic.

The best option in terms of price/quality ratio, however, is ceramics.

By price

You need to focus on price, but a more reliable indicator of quality is the country of origin. For example, Chinese devices developed by American engineers are not inferior in quality to German “average” ones.

By price category, brands are divided into three groups:

1. Inexpensive: Chinese Atman, Resun. On average they cost up to 4 thousand rubles.
2. Average in cost: JBL, Sera, Hagen, Tetra (Germany), Aquael (Poland), Ferplast, Hydor (Italy). The brands are of European origin, but the assembly is still Chinese. They cost about 6-8 thousand rubles.
3. Expensive. Thanks to high quality and reliability, the German company Eheim earned this title. The average price is 13-14 thousand rubles for a 120 liter filter.

If you are a beginner, know that it is better not to rely on expensive equipment, but to gain experience. No filter, even the most reliable one, can replace human care.

By manufacturer

One brand can produce products of different price categories, but this only affects its quality and popularity for the better. Therefore, we highly recommend researching the best brands before heading to the store.

Here is our short review of the best manufacturers:

1. The ideal option in terms of price/quality ratio is Aquael UNIMAX.
2. The best silent devices are offered by the German leader - Eheim.
3. The latest biopurification technologies will be offered by the very popular German brand Tetra in our country.
4. A Chinese dark horse that is gradually gaining worldwide fame is HAILEA. The devices are very cheap, but their maintenance will require more time.
5. Inexpensive canister water purifiers of excellent quality are offered by the Italian company Hydor.

So far, manufacturers from Germany, Poland and Italy enjoy the greatest confidence among aquarists.

How to choose an external filter for an aquarium

When choosing and purchasing an external filter for an aquarium, you need to know what key points you should pay attention to.

1. If you are buying an external filter for an aquarium with a volume of up to 100 liters, then you should focus on the silent operation of the filter, since the external filter will cope with mechanical and biological filtration in any case.

2. For an aquarium up to 100 liters, the filter capacity should be approximately 300-500 liters per hour. This performance of an external aquarium filter will be enough even if your aquarium is overcrowded, which happens very often. Your choice is Aquael MINI KANI 80, Tetra EX 600 Plus, EHEIM Ecco Pro 130.

3. For an aquarium larger than 100 liters, the output of the external filter should be approximately 700 liters per hour. Your choice is Tetra EX 800 Plus, EHEIM Ecco Pro 200, Aquael MIDIKANI 800.

4. Potbelliness of the canister. The larger the volume of the canister, the larger the volume of filter material. In this case, the water will be cleaner and its flow more stable.

5. Number of trays. The greater the number of trays, the more the user of an external aquarium filter can experiment with different types of fillers. Give preference to filters that have at least three or four compartments for fillers.

6. Hose thickness. The rule here is that thicker is better than narrower. The fact is that over time, the inside of the hose becomes covered with a coating of algae and other suspended matter, which will impede the flow of water in the hose.

To summarize, we can say that when choosing an external filter, you should focus on three indicators: productivity (in liters per hour), power consumption (in watts) and the recommended aquarium volume (in liters).

When choosing an external filter for an aquarium with a particular pump power, do not forget to take into account the fact that the sponge takes 10% of the power, or even 20-25%, the remaining 30-50% of the power will be taken by the rise of water into the aquarium if the filter is installed under an aquarium in a cabinet.

How to make a biofilter yourself

A self-created biofilter is in no way inferior to ready-made analogues even from the most renowned brands. You just need to know how and what to make biological filters from. There are several options for making them.

From a plastic bottle (option 1)

We will need a plastic bottle, a PVC tube (its diameter must match the neck of the bottle).
For filler we use fine-grained pebbles with a diameter of up to 5 mm. You also need a compressor and padding polyester.

The manufacturing technology is as follows:

• Cut the bottle along the top edge of the label. It is necessary to ensure that the upper part of the bottle fits into the lower part with difficulty.
• In the created device (in the bowl) we make 10-12 holes measuring 3-4 mm.
• Insert the PVC tube tightly into the bowl, making sure it fits tightly. If a gap appears, use silicone glue to glue the joint to completely seal it.

• The height of the PVC tube will be slightly larger than the bottom of the bottle, but it should not reach the bottom.
• We put a 5-6 cm layer of pebbles into the prepared structure. We put padding polyester on top.
• The compressor hose is inserted and securely fastened into the pipe.

All that remains is to check the equipment and run it in the aquarium. This method is the most accessible and easiest to manufacture. When the compressor is running, air will flow through the PVC pipe and exit to the top.

The substrate will become actively saturated with oxygen, and a water stream will flow through the holes down to the pipe and enter the jar.

From a plastic bottle (option 2)

This method is similar to that already described, but has its own nuances. To make a biofilter you will need a 1.5 liter plastic bottle, foam rubber, substrate, sprayer, clamps and a compressor with a hose. The assembly diagram is as follows:

• We make several small holes in the lower area of ​​the bottle.
• We tightly wrap the lower part with holes with foam rubber. For reliability, we tighten the foam layer with clamps.

• Pour the substrate into the bottle (about half the capacity).
• We connect a compressor hose with a sprayer to the top of the bottle (to the neck).

The biofilter is ready. We check it and install it in the jar. The principle of its operation is simple: the flow is formed by oxygen, the air combined with water exits through the neck of the bottle, and at the bottom the water stream enters the aquarium through the holes.

If your aquarium is large, then take a larger compressor. The bottle can also be larger in volume.

From glass

This version of a self-contained biofilter is the most complex to set up. But it is also the most effective in terms of characteristics and effectiveness. To create it you need glass, alcohol, a glass cutter, matches, a measuring tape and three types of filler. The manufacturing procedure consists of the following steps:

1. We measure the aquarium in width and length. We need to cut glass of the same size (this is the bottom of the biofilter).
2. We make the side walls in the same way. Their length will correspond to the length of the can. The height does not matter; 10-12 cm is enough for it.
3. The back wall is also cut using the same method. The length corresponds to the aquarium, but it is necessary to provide a reserve the size of the thickness of the side aquarium glasses. We take 10-12 cm in height.
4. We carefully treat all glass blanks with alcohol, and after drying, carefully apply glue (the adhesive layer is applied evenly to the edges of our future walls).
5. Glass blanks are assembled and joined. They should be fixed until the adhesive composition dries completely.
6. Let's start making partitions. They will be identical in length to the base already made, but their height is slightly reduced (by the size of a matchbox). It can be placed on the bottom when assembling the structure - it is important to ensure that water flows freely in this area along the bottom.
7. We glue the partition structure according to preliminary markings. In total, we will have two similar barriers and three chambers in which the filler will be located. The walls of the partitions should be located at the same distance. To determine the measured width of the aquarium, divide by three and place markings at each point.
8. We make the second partition in the same way and glue it to the aquarium.
9. We cut out two more additional partitions from glass (with their help, the access of water to the edges of the jar itself (at the place where the filter is installed) will be limited). When making, take into account that the additional partitions are wider than the aquarium stiffeners. These models are glued to the free part of the main part, in the place water leakage.
10. Cut out a small strip (its length is equal to the length of the filter, its width is 2 cm). We glue the bar to the end of our second partition in the form of a visor.
11. We make the second bar in the same way (slightly shorter in size than the aquarium length, 6-7 cm in height). We attach it to the third building (the padding polyester filler will be located there). The bar will help the water flow freely into the jar.
12. We make the next bar, slightly shorter in length than the aquarium bar and 2-3 cm wide. Glue it under the gap.

After making the entire structure, we proceed to filling it. The first compartment is filled with padding polyester, the second is filled with expanded clay (or pebbles, ceramic rings), the third is also filled with padding polyester. We attach a filter and a hose to the can (the hose is attached to the pump from the internal filter). All that remains is to check the design and launch it.

There are various biofilters for home aquariums. Both ready-made and created independently. Such devices are extremely important in creating favorable living conditions for aquarium fish and other aquatic inhabitants.

Next

EquipmentAquael Fan Mini Plus filter for cleaning your aquarium

Cleaning the external aquarium filter

Cleaning the external filter involves washing the filter materials (ceramics, foam rubber) or replacing them (zeolite, carbon), as well as cleaning the mechanical parts of the filter.

The procedure for cleaning the external filter for an aquarium is as follows.

1. You must first visit the store and buy heavily worn filter material (sponges, padding polyester, peat).

2. Turn off the external filter from the power supply.

3. Shut off and disconnect the hoses.

4. Place the external filter in the basin, remove the lid and drain all the water

5. We take out the fillers and clean them or replace them if necessary

6. Open the rotor chamber and thoroughly clean the rotor of organic matter

7. Assembling the filter. Don’t forget to fill the external filter canister with water before turning it on.

Filter maintenance

External filters are cleaned much less frequently than similar devices that are installed inside the tank. If you choose high-quality filter materials, they will not be touched for months. The device is periodically inspected for leaks. Fillers should not be washed with running water. They are rinsed in aquarium water. Otherwise, colonies of beneficial microorganisms are destroyed. It will take time for new ones to form.

The rotor axis of a running pump also needs to be cleaned. The weak point of the outdoor device is the gasket separating the body and the “head”. It is regularly lubricated with gel or a new one is installed. The hoses are cleaned using a brush. It is often not necessary to interfere with the operation of the equipment so as not to impair performance.

How to correctly arrange filter materials in an external filter

When filling filter baskets with filtration materials, you need to follow a simple rule. The essence of this rule is that before biological treatment, water must undergo mechanical treatment.

In practice, this means the following: if the water flow in the filter goes from bottom to top, then there should be a sponge at the bottom, then ceramics or sintered glass should go, and at the very top you can place a padding polyester for maximum purification of water from suspended matter.

In my filter, for example, I use only a standard sponge and sintered glass filler, excluding padding polyester altogether (the water is already clear).

Why do you need a water purifier?

The aquarium filter performs the most important functions by maintaining a constant internal environment in the tank.

The purpose of this device is to:

• mechanically purify water from dirt;
• eliminate harmful decomposition products of organic matter by physical, chemical and biological means;
• mix water, improving gas exchange;
• in some cases, additionally enrich the water with oxygen.

Often, pampered tropical fish even die in a tank in which the water is not constantly filtered. It is not for nothing that aquarists around the world have not stopped using devices from this group for many decades.

Prefilter What is it and is it needed at all?

In the vast majority of cases, the suction tube of the external filter does not have a sponge on it. To prevent the suction of fish fry and large particles of dirt, manufacturers use various mechanisms such as a check valve (for example, in my external device, the manufacturer uses a ball, which 1) narrows the opening for water intake and 2) blocks the flow of water in the absence of suction towards the filter basket).

Whether to put a sponge on the suction tube or not is up to everyone to decide for themselves. This sponge on the inlet hose is called a prefilter. When using a prefilter, two problems are solved: 1) the fry is prevented from getting inside the outer; 2) water entering the filter undergoes additional mechanical cleaning.

Filtering methods

There are several main methods:

Biological method

Colonies of beneficial bacteria always settle on glass, driftwood, and decorative elements. There are especially many of them in the ground. These bacteria convert ammonia compounds into less dangerous ones. Biological method. Used for filtration. Based on the same principle. Large colonies of such bacteria that colonize the filter material. In the process of life, they break down compounds that are toxic to fish. If the filter apparatus is used correctly, all fillers will soon become colonized with beneficial bacteria. You can also use specialized biofilters. In which there are much more of these bacteria.

Mechanical method

This is the easiest way. Water is passed through a filter. At the same time, it passes through special washcloths and sponges made of synthetics, padding polyester or foam rubber. And all large pieces of debris and dirt remain on the sponges.

Adsorption method

In this case, activated carbon is used as a filler. It removes visible contaminants and harmful gases from water. Makes water clear, good for purifying water from drug residues after treating fish.

Chemical method

It is not used often. Its action is based on the use of specialized resins and zeolite minerals. It should be clarified that modern filters most often use not one, but several of the above methods.

Brush for cleaning external filter hoses

Over time, the external filter hoses become overgrown with algae. In addition to the fact that it looks unaesthetic, during the first cleaning you will be faced with the problem that plaque damaged by bending the hoses during cleaning will fall directly into the aquarium. But this is a solvable problem.

There are special brushes for cleaning hoses that can be purchased at a pet store. Such brushes usually have bristly fibers at both ends. The very basis of such a brush is a metal cable, reminiscent of the one used to clean clogged pipelines in the bathroom.

How are they different from internal ones?

The difference between external filter devices and internal ones is as follows:

• a colossal amount of filter materials when compared with internal devices;
• usually higher throughput than internal filters;
• as mentioned above, multi-level filtration - in particular, the filter package includes fillers for biological (biofillers), mechanical (sponges) and chemical (zeolite or activated carbon) cleaning;
• as a result of the above, much finer water purification;
• The external device needs attention much less frequently than the internal device - generally no more than once every 2-3 months.

Some extreme sports enthusiasts do not clean the filter for 6-12 months, but it is better to check there more often.

Experienced aquarists recommend purchasing an external filter , since in terms of the totality of its properties it is significantly ahead of its internal companion.

The best external filters for an aquarium

Tetra EX Plus

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three modifications: Tetra EX 600 Plus (60-120 liters), Tetra EX 800 Plus (100-300 liters), Tetra EX 1200 Plus (250-500 liters).

Tetra EX 600 Plus can be used in aquariums starting from 60 liters, but not exceeding 120 liters. The filter has five different media (water passes through ceramic rings, bio-balls, traditional sponge, carbon media and fiber pad, which remove various dirt particles and provide biological, mechanical and chemical filtration). Filter elements are changed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations once every 6-12 months. You can purchase this filter for a price ranging from 5,000 to 7,000 thousand rubles.

SERAfil BIOACTIVE

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three modifications: SERAfil BIOACTIVE 130 (up to 130 liters), SERAfil BIOACTIVE 250 (up to 250 liters), SERAfil BIOACTIVE 400 (up to 400 liters).

The cost of the external filter SERAfil BIOACTIVE 130 ranges from 4,000 to 7,000 thousand rubles.

EHEIM IS THE PERMANENT LEADER IN THE MARKET OF EXTERNAL FILTERS

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three modifications: EHEIM Ecco Pro 130 (60-130 liters), EHEIM Ecco Pro 200 (100-200 liters), EHEIM Ecco Pro 300 (160-300 liters).

EHEIM filters are rightfully considered among aquarists to be the best external filters. These filters combine low energy consumption with high performance, provide excellent mechanical and biological filtration, and operate very quietly. The EHEIM Ecco Pro 130 filter costs around 6,000 - 8,000 thousand rubles.

A very good review of the EHEIM brand external aquarium filter can be found on the website at https://zoo-forum.com.ua/post1266.html.

AQUAEL IS GRADUALLY COMING TO THE LEADERS OF EXTERNAL FILTERS

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three tested and proven modifications: MINIKANI 80 (up to 80 liters), MINIKANI 120 (80-120 liters), MIDIKANI 800 (120-250 liters), MULTIKANI (20-320 liters).

The MINIKANI 80 filter has a compact high-performance remote pump, is an alternative to internal filters for small-volume aquariums, and is simple and easy to install and maintain. The cost of MINIKANI 80 on the Russian market is about 4000 - 5000 thousand rubles.

JBL IS A VERY POPULAR FILTER BRAND IN THE RUSSIAN MARKET

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three modifications: JBL CristalProfi e401 greenline (40-120 liters), JBL CristalProfi e701 greenline (60-200 liters), JBL CristalProfi e901 greenline (90-300 liters).

External filters from JBL are characterized by very quiet operation with a pump capacity of 450 liters per hour. A distinctive feature of JBL filters is the patented pre-filter: high-performance biofilter with a volume of 4.6 liters, shut-off valve, hose connection with the ability to rotate 360°, easily replaceable filter materials.

The cost of the JBL CristalProfi e401 greenline model ranges from 6,000 to 7,000 Russian rubles.

SICCE - ITALIAN MANUFACTURER OF EXTERNAL FILTERS

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three modifications: Sicce SPACE EKO+ 100 (up to 100 liters), Sicce SPACE EKO+ 200 (up to 200 liters), Sicce SPACE EKO+ 300 (up to 300 liters).

The cost of Sicce SPACE EKO+ 100 fluctuates around 4000 - 4500 Russian rubles.

The line of filters from the Italian manufacturer SICCE, which has proven itself well in Europe, also includes models of external filters of the WHALE series. This series differs from the SPACE EKO+ series in higher cost, quieter operation of the filter and more durable glossy material for the filter canister.

Sicce SPACE EKO+ filters have a unique filter design, unlike any other manufacturer. There is a knob for adjusting the power of water flow, a pump for quick start of the filter. I use this filter model in my 60 liter aquarium, so if you have questions about this brand of external filter, write in the comments, I will answer everyone.

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How to choose an aquarium filter depending on the size of the aquarium

Choosing an aquarium depending on its size is not difficult and even a novice fish breeder can handle it. Manufacturers designate power using the abbreviation L/H. These designations mean how many liters the filter will pass through in 60 minutes (1 hour). For example, a mark on the package with the values ​​200L/H indicates that 200 liters of liquid will be pumped in one hour. This makes it easy to calculate the filter power without much effort.

It should be noted that manufacturers of such devices slightly inflate this figure. This is due to the fact that brands that produce cleaning devices are tested without filler. Experienced aquarists recommend buying these devices so that they pump all the water from 6 to 9 times.

5-25 liters

It is necessary to choose a cleaning element for a small aquarium (for example, 15 liters and above), taking into account the size of the fish. Pay attention to internal filters. They are easy to use and maintain. Among the disadvantages is that such a device can occupy a large area and have insufficient power. In addition, a significant disadvantage of an internal aquafilter for a small house of marine life is the creation of water flows, which can cause fish to be sucked inside. Another drawback is the mechanical cleaning component.

As for external cleaning elements for artificial reservoirs of 10 liters and above, such devices must be additionally installed.

Also, the disadvantage is the weakness of the suction cups and not very beautiful appearance. But at the same time they provide excellent filtration and do not create flow. If there are a lot of inhabitants in an aquarium of 20 liters or more, it is best to purify the liquid using compact external filters. For one fish (or if the inhabitants of marine or fresh artificial reservoirs are quite small), purchase an internal one. It should be quiet, although you'll have to pay a little more for silent operation.

30-70 liters

For an aquarium with a capacity of 30, 40 liters and above, it is recommended to purchase devices that meet the following requirements:

• do not give a strong current;
• have a small size;
• creating aeration and good filtration.

The ideal option would be an airlift filter, a mini filter with a glass, or a waterfall, which will filter the water well. Each of these devices is not too expensive, so it is available to all aquarists. Also, for such artificial reservoirs of 30, 50, 60, 70 liters, quiet operation is important.

80-100 liters

For an aquarium with a capacity of 80 to 100 liters with a large number of inhabitants or large fish, the option with a combined type biofilter is recommended. It should be noted that it is quite difficult to clean, but is able to cope well and quickly with the tasks assigned to it. For 80 and 100 liter fish houses, give preference to models that meet the requirements below:

• equipped with durable legs;
• with reliable fastenings;
• with noise-free operation;
• in maximum configuration;
• with good tightness.

To avoid unexpected problems, purchase cleaning elements from trusted manufacturers. At the same time, look at the size of the device - it should not be too bulky. Also consider the level of performance (the higher it is, the better). Do not forget that all components of the aquafilter must be of high quality.

100-200 liters

Aquariums with a capacity of 120 liters require devices with high performance. At the same time, make sure that they are not bulky and do not take up space in the home for marine life. Experienced aquarists advise buying a device with a power of 1000 L/H or higher.

With such a filtration system in an aquarium of 150 liters and above, the water will always be clean. If the fluid purification element has decent power, do not buy additional filters. Conversely, if performance is insufficient, another device will be needed.

250-500 liters

Cleaning elements for aquariums with a volume of 250, 300 and up to 500 liters must have a high optimum power.

Choose those with a liquid flow rate of 400 liters or higher. Filters with the correct parameters will help protect the water from blooms and reduce the need to maintain the environment in which the fish live.

In addition, keep in mind that the product must be of high quality. Give preference to cleaning devices that are quick and easy to disassemble, assemble and operate. The noise level that the filter produces is also very important. The strength of the fastenings in the aquarium also matters. If the elements do not meet these requirements, the filter will fall into the water.

External filter elements have several stages of cleaning at once. Combined ones are required to be efficient in purification and adsorption of microscopic debris suspensions. Chemical and mechanical water filters meet the same requirements. Remember that if the aquarium has a very large capacity, then the water in it must be changed weekly, despite the installed cleaning devices. Only in this case the health of the fish will be normal.

More than 500

When choosing a powerful filter for an aquarium with a capacity of 500 liters, pay attention to devices with a capacity of at least 1700 L/H. In addition, the following parameters are important:

1. Number of compartments (cassettes). The number of such elements affects the quality of filtration. Therefore, the more there are, the better.
2. Canister capacity. Give preference to large options, since the capacity of such containers directly affects the stable flow. As a result, you will have to clean the aquarium filter less often.
3. Lightweight lid and easy removal of compartments (cassettes). Thanks to these parameters, cleaning the fish house will be quick and comfortable.
4. Hose diameter. It shouldn't be too narrow. A small gap can become covered over time with bacterial plaque and algal growth. Such contaminants block the lumen and overload the pump, robbing it of some of its power.
5. Reinforcing elements on the impeller. Thanks to the presence of such parts, the service life of the filter is extended.
6. Reciprocating parameters for the horn. The size of the part must be greater than 10 mm. This will help the horn start the cleaning device.
7. Quality of union nuts. They should be ribbed, so they will be more convenient to use. You should not buy nuts with single-thread threads, which will not provide a 100% tightness.

In addition to the above, when purchasing from an aquarium store, look at the configuration of the overflow tubes for the filter. In aquariums with a capacity of 500 liters or more, it is more convenient to clean U-shaped rather than U-shaped tubes. Also look at whether the components for the purchased filter are replaced and whether they are easy to find on sale.