Internal filter for an aquarium and everything you need to know about it

The internal filter CRYSTAL Mini K10 is designed for marine and freshwater aquariums with a volume of 20 to 50 liters.

The filter is installed in the corner of the aquarium using a special tripod.

Thanks to adjustable aeration and flow direction systems, the device guarantees efficient water circulation.

The filter provides two-stage filtration: mechanical (removal of large particles using foam rubber), biological or chemical (the chamber is filled with different types of filtration materials).

The filter is easy to maintain.

Its design prevents leakage of filtered waste when removing the filter from the aquarium.

Specifications:

Dimensions: 8.5 x 9.3 x 19.5 cm

Capacity: 170 l/h

Power: 4W

Weight: 0.44 kg

Classification of internal and external filters

Filtering devices are divided into three types according to the type of cleaning:

Read also: Why do you need a QR code and how to create it

• The mechanical filtration option involves removing debris particles by passing through porous structures. The device is replaced and cleaned every 2 weeks.
• Biological treatment refers to the removal of foreign impurities and harmful chemicals from water. Ceramic fillers with a porous structure promote the formation of colonies of beneficial bacteria, which decompose ammonia compounds into safe components.
• Chemical filtration removes substances dissolved in water that are dangerous to fish. Such filters traditionally use activated carbon, which removes ammonia from water. Peat filters are used in fish aquariums that require the creation of soft acidic water.

The best choice is three-stage filters that perform deeper cleaning. Many models have an aesthetic appearance; their body looks like a stylish design element.

Water Purifiers

The clarity of your aquarium water has an impact on the appearance of your aquarium. Crystal clear water in an immaculately clean aquarium creates a stunning picture with or without fish! Products in this category include - Kent Pro-Clear, TetraAqua CrystalWater, Seachem Clarity, Sera Aquariaclear and API Accu-Clear.

Often when changing the water, servicing your filtration system, or cleaning algae from glass, aquarium water becomes cloudy. This can be a problem, especially if you cleaned the aquarium because you are having a dinner party that evening and wanted your aquarium to be special! Many aquarists use water purifiers every time they make a change, just to avoid the inevitable 12-24 hour cloudiness. In addition, new aquariums often become cloudy; this is normal and you should not try to use these cleaners.

Most purifiers are suitable for either fresh or salt water, so check before using. In addition, it is better to use cleaners in a clean aquarium (washed gravel) and not too dirty, the effect will be more pronounced. This is because these drugs work by binding small particles in water together into larger ones and sedimenting them out. Finally, it is important to monitor the carbonate hardness of your aquarium, especially if you have soft aquarium water, as these drugs can lower the KH, which can lead to a pH balance problem; This is quite rare and generally no need to worry about it.

Main types of aquarium filters

Depending on the type of equipment and its equipment, water filtration in an aquarium is performed in different ways. Let's look at the main types of aquarium filters, their features and advantages.

External filter

External filters are the most expensive type of equipment that perform highly effective mechanical, chemical and biological water purification simultaneously. The device is fixed on the outside of the aquarium, and only two suction tubes are placed in the water. Through one of them, water is pumped into an outer housing with various fillers, after passing through which, the purified liquid is again supplied to the aquarium through the second tube.

Advantages of external filters:

·multi-stage cleaning system;

·high performance;

long service life;

·suitable for cleaning aquariums of different sizes.

To effectively purify water in an aquarium, it is necessary to clean the filter itself at least once every 2-3 months.

Internal filter

The most popular type of equipment is an internal aquarium filter, characterized by low cost and average operating efficiency. This device is placed directly into the aquarium water. The design contains a filler sponge, which cleans the liquid. The equipment also includes a plug and a hose, thanks to which the water is not only filtered, but also aerated.

Pros of internal filters:

·low cost;

· safety of operation, water during filtration will not flow out of the aquarium, which is due to the internal location of the filter housing;

· easy maintenance, the filter sponge is quickly cleaned of dirt by washing.

The disadvantages include the low quality of water filtration and the need for frequent cleaning of the filter sponge (once a week).

Bottom filter

Bottom filters can be used in aquariums of different sizes. The design consists of a pump, a tube system and a fine-mesh grid. Water purification is carried out naturally - with the help of soil.

The bottom filter tubes are placed at the bottom of the aquarium, a grid is installed on top, on top of which a layer of soil is laid - pebbles or small stones.

The system works according to the following scheme: water from under the grate is pumped out through a pump, passes through the filter material, and then is cleaned of large soil contaminants. During the process of water filtration, soil aeration also occurs, which helps strengthen the root system of algae and their rapid growth. The main thing is to prevent oversaturation of the soil with oxygen, which will negatively affect the growth of vegetation in the aquarium.

Advantages of a bottom filter:

·high-quality mechanical and biological water purification;

·thanks to the continuous water cycle, the risks of spreading infection are eliminated;

· quiet operation of the device;

· aesthetics, inconspicuousness from the outside;

· creates an optimal microclimate for the existence of fish.

The main disadvantage: the filter tubes often become clogged with dirt and require cleaning, which can only be done by draining the liquid and completely disassembling the bottom device.

Airlift filter

Practical and reliable, airlift filters are the lowest-power type of aquarium equipment. They are sold at low cost. The principle of operation is as follows: the compressor pumps air, the flow of water rushes upward and, entering the tube where the filter element is installed, is cleaned from mechanical impurities.

Airlift filter functions:

Enriches the liquid with air;

· ensures constant circulation of water in the aquarium;

·performs mechanical cleaning of liquid.

Cons: low efficiency, the device does not create a powerful flow of water, so the sponge absorbs little organic matter. Only suitable for cleaning small aquariums with a small number of fish.

Other types

There are other types of aquarium filters. For example, a phytofilter is a highly effective device that performs high-quality biological cleaning. Such filters are not commercially available; you have to create them yourself using natural porous fillers.

Features of using filters

In order for the aquarium filter to work effectively and not have a negative impact on the residents of the artificial pond, you need to correctly install the structure and comply with some operating requirements recommended by the manufacturer.

Installation

External filters are installed behind the walls of the aquarium in a special cabinet, and two hoses are lowered into the water - suction and outlet.

Internal filters are attached to the wall inside the aquarium. The device is completely immersed in water, the optimal height of the water level above the top point of the body is 2-5 cm. The filter includes a flexible tube for air supply. One part of it is connected to the body submerged in water, the second is brought out into the open air.

After installing the filters, you need to test the operating mode of the device, having first removed all living creatures from the aquarium. If the filter is functioning normally, the fish can be reintroduced into the aquarium.

Exploitation

It is necessary to follow some rules for the operation of aquarium filters, which will ensure normal living conditions for its inhabitants.

Operating rules:

1. Regular cleaning of filters.

2. Continuous water filtration.

3. Compliance with safety regulations. Do not put your hand in the water if the filter is on.

4. The indoor unit starts up only after it is completely immersed in water.

How to set up an aquarium without a filter

The cleaning device improves the habitat of aquatic flora and fauna. But if, nevertheless, the owner decides to do without installing it, it is necessary to create an alternative in the aquarium - an autonomous biosystem that independently regulates its biological balance. The role of a filter in it will be performed by soil and colonies of beneficial bacteria.

Success is largely determined by the correct choice of tank. The smaller the volume, the more difficult it is to create in it the conditions necessary for normal existence. The optimal choice is 50 liters, but you must take into account the volume required by the fish you plan to stock. It is very important to avoid overcrowding, because it causes an excess of nitrogen-containing waste - natural filters cannot cope with it. It is advisable to reduce the recommended occupancy rate by one and a half times.

Fish in an aquarium without a filter can live unpretentiously. The absence of a cleaning device is well tolerated by guppies, swordtails, neons, gouramis, barbs, macropods, cardinals, zebrafish, and some subspecies of goldfish. Caring for them is the same as with filtration, but it is especially important not to overfeed or allow food residues to accumulate.

The crucial moment is the selection, preparation and laying of the soil. It is preferable to choose a porous material so that colonies of beneficial bacteria settle in it. You cannot use a substrate that is either too small (it will cake and rot) or too large (remnants of feed and railway waste will fall under it and also rot). Before laying, the soil must be thoroughly washed and disinfected as much as possible.

An aquarium without a filter needs dense vegetation to enrich the environment with oxygen and biological purification. Priority is given to fast-growing grasses with an extensive root system. Good choices are Vallisneria, Elodea, Cryptocoryne undulata, Anubias bartera, and pterygoid fern. Echinodorus will help fight siltation and acidification of the soil. Mosses, for example, Javanese, purify water well, but grow slowly, so they are used as additional flora.

Aquaria2.RU

The variety of internal filters in our stores has recently become a pleasant surprise. At the same time, the aquarist inevitably has a question, which filter is better? Especially if not in a cramped tank, but in a completely normal aquarium, about one hundred fifty to two hundred liters...

Before choosing a filter, the aquarist must answer the following questions: 1. Is a filter necessary? After all, previously they managed without it and at the same time successfully kept and raised fish. 2. Filter internal or external! An external filter is undoubtedly more effective in many ways; its disadvantages include excessive performance in some cases, for example, for a planted aquarium, high price, noise and the need for additional space outside the aquarium. 3. If an external filter is selected, is an additional internal filter needed? Such a powerful combination turns out to be very useful in aquariums containing cichlids, or simply heavily overloaded with fish.

By internal filter we mean a device consisting of a pump, housing and filter material. The predecessors of internal filters were filter heads. Similar to them, internal filters, made according to the classical design, have a hollow synthetic sponge of cylindrical or rectangular shape as a filter material. However, unlike the filter head, the sponge is located inside the so-called “glass”, i.e. removable casing. For advanced models of internal filters, the housing consists of two (one inside the other) “glasses”, or of two or more prefabricated sections. Another group of internal filters are devices that have one or more solid rectangular foam pads as a filter material. The standard principle of operation of the internal filter: the flow of water emitted by the filter reaches the opposite wall, is reflected from it and brings suspended particles to the cracks of the filter bowl, where they are sucked in (i.e. the current should be strong enough, but not too strong so as not to there was a second reflection of it, this time from the filter itself, with the dirt being carried away); then inside the glass through the filter material and, once cleaned, through the outlet nozzle of the pump out into the aquarium. The main functions performed by the internal filter in an aquarium: - mechanical filtration; — biological filtration; — chemical filtration; — creating water circulation; - aeration. It is not always necessary for a filter to perform all of the above functions at once. Sometimes it is enough for it to serve only as a quick filter (i.e., to provide rapid mechanical cleaning of aquarium water from suspended matter). So, if, along with the internal filter, the aquarium is also served by an external “canister”, i.e. in fact, the internal filter is used as an additional one, the biofiltration function is not taken into account. Conversely, when used as the main filter device, it is important.

Large aquariums are usually equipped with an external filter or a filter head with a large sponge.

AquaEl FAN-3

The FAN series filter (AquaEL) can be easily converted into a filter head if necessary

Hydor Crystal Duo R20II in an aquarium

In the absence of aeration by a compressor, the internal filter is often assigned the function of enriching water with oxygen, which can be solved in two ways: by creating a strong current at the surface and/or using a diffuser (Venturi nozzle), and vice versa, the presence of compressor blowing makes the diffuser completely useless and superfluous. The need for chemical filtration, as a rule, arises only occasionally, for example, after the use of medications, and requires special consumables (this function is not discussed in our review). It should also be taken into account that these functions are closely interrelated. Contaminants that accumulate in the filter media can be eliminated either through frequent washing or self-recycling biologically. The latter significantly extends the period of non-stop operation of the filter, and also eliminates the danger of its “biological overturning” and the release of accumulated harmful substances back into the aquarium. However, for biological processes to occur successfully in an aerobic environment, a high oxygen content in aquarium water is required. Which function is the main one and which one is secondary depends on the specific situation in each individual aquarium and the tasks that the aquarist solves. The main characteristic of the internal filter is the pump performance, measured in liters per hour. This indicator is important primarily for achieving good mechanical filtration, which requires a capacity of four to five aquarium volumes per hour. For effective biological filtration, it is enough to have one and a half to two volumes per hour (although a certain reserve of productivity will not hurt, but too strong a flow can, on the contrary, worsen it). At the same time, one should remember about another important characteristic, which is sometimes “forgotten” not only by users, but also by filter manufacturers (they do not indicate it in the specifications), namely the volume of filter material. However, the quality of biofiltration also depends on the distribution of flows inside the filter, and mechanical filtration depends on a reasonable ratio of performance and filter material (a sponge that is too large or dense can interfere with work). Unfortunately, the common features of all internal filters are limited maximum pump capacity and low volume of filter material. In this regard, despite the optimistic recommendations of some manufacturers, our review considers only the “older” models, because, regardless of what is written in the company instructions (“150-200 l” or “over 200 l”), a two-hundred-liter aquarium is This is usually the limit for the internal filter. If you want to have a large “can,” install a filter head with a sponge, or even two, or a powerful “external” filter. At the same time, internal filters differ favorably from filter heads in their more aesthetic appearance, ease of maintenance and, which is important for an indoor aquarium, comparative low noise, and from external filters in their low price and the absence of the need to allocate additional space for them outside the aquarium. All this allows us to talk about the internal filter as amateur equipment intended for relatively small indoor aquariums. In larger home aquariums and in professional aquarium keeping, their field of application is significantly narrower: as an additional filter in the presence of a main external one, as the main filter in small exhibition or trade aquariums.

Criteria for evaluation

Due to the variety of functions of the internal filter, it is impossible to give each model an unambiguous formal assessment. For example, the same device may work well as a quick filter, but not be suitable as a main one; satisfy the requirements of a “Dutch” aquarium, but cannot cope in a “sanitary” type aquarium. In this regard, I immediately foresee possible reader criticism: “You rejected my favorite filter, while it works great in my aquarium.” Maybe. But in this case, crystal clear water and normally occurring aquarium biological processes are not entirely his merit. Let us remember that in earlier times there were no filters at all. Many “old school” aquarists still manage without them, or limit themselves to extremely simple devices and still achieve excellent results... To doubt your attachment, try to evaluate the merits of your favorite filter in an aquarium of the same volume and the same or more fish, but without soil, plants and do not clean the bottom for a couple of weeks. The result will be much less encouraging. I would also like to point out that criticism of the older model does not always apply to all other models in the line. In general, the older models, designed for large aquariums, as well as the youngest models, designed for minimum volumes, are a kind of “aerobatics”, because impose the most stringent and difficult requirements on developers. And not everyone succeeds. In our review (see summary table at the end), the evaluation of the internal filter is divided into the following elements: biological filtration, mechanical filtration, aeration, fasteners, ease of maintenance, noise and price (on a three-point system, the last two indicators in negative values). Additional features that cannot be formalized are reflected in the description text. Good biological filtration involves removing dissolved organic compounds from the water and completely converting all highly toxic nitrogen compounds present in the aquarium into low-toxic nitrate. The ammonia/ammonium/nitrite content should be zero or, in extreme cases, maintained within safe limits. An indirect sign is the presence of dirty brown clods and clots of bioculture on the filter substrate. A sign of high-quality mechanical filtration is the absence of dirt in the aquarium in the form of remains of uneaten food, excrement, plant scraps and small inorganic particles, both in suspension and at the bottom. An indirect sign is strong and uniform contamination of the filter substrate. The quality of aeration depends on the design of the diffuser. Almost any internal filter can enrich water with oxygen by creating a strong surface flow, but this method is not always sufficient. Therefore, a special aerator is needed. In our review, in addition to the strength of the air flow created by the diffuser, we also took into account the reliability and ability of the filter to work with the diffuser at significant depth. When assessing the practicality of maintenance, we took into account the ease of removal and assembly/disassembly of the filter cartridges and turbine, the possibility of alternately washing the sponges, the rotation of the outlet nozzle in the horizontal and vertical planes, the presence of protection against splashing out dirt when removing the device or its filter elements from the aquarium, as well as the possibility of “ upgrade" by installing (or dismantling) filter sections. But the presence of an additional compartment for activated carbon or a fine filter and the possibility of using alternative fillers were not taken into account when assigning points, because these advantages seem to me rather dubious. The first is due to the small internal volume of the additional chambers, the second is due to the limited total internal volume, the most practical filter material and biosubstrate in which is an ordinary large-porous sponge. *** The first part of our review presents market favorites. You can easily find these filters in almost any Moscow pet store.

Fluval 4 Plus Manufacturer: Askoll, Italy

Fluval filters, produced by the Askoll plant on behalf of the famous aquarium company, were among the first to appear on the domestic market. The Hagen brand is usually associated with middle-class goods, relatively cheap, but at the same time quite high quality. This is exactly what the old “fluvali glasses” were like, the convenient two-glass design of which was once a kind of standard for an internal filter. They are still successfully used in many aquariums, although they have long been discontinued, giving way to the modern and more expensive “plus” model. This is the one that opens our review - Fluval 4 Plus, the older IO‰AI? IO Askolev line, consisting of four filters. Description: has a complex body design. The outer casing is made in hi-tech style. The suction slots, very wide, are located on the sides. The two-piece internal cartridge is inserted from the bottom. In theory, this design allows the sponges to be removed and washed without affecting the entire filter; in practice, it also has to be removed from the holder. In this case, some of the dirt inevitably spills out. The internal cartridge provides space not only for ordinary sponges, but also for a denser fine polyester liner or a synthetic sponge impregnated with carbon (to give the filter chemical filtration functions). The filter cartridge is impressive in size. If you add a fine cleaning insert to the two standard sponges (about 150 cm2, not included in the kit), then the volume of filler turns out to be the largest among all the models announced in our review, however, the use of the insert reduces the performance of the pump. The sponges become dirty evenly, but quickly. And, as experience shows, even if you wash them alternately, you still cannot count on stable biofiltration. The powerful 10-watt pump is pleasantly low-noise, which is generally typical for products from the Askoll plant, as well as some lag in its actual performance from the rated one. The filter outlet nozzle rotates in a horizontal plane within 90 degrees. The water pressure regulator is located at the front of the pump. The performance indicator deserves special mention. Note that at the moment Fluval plus is the only one among internal filters that has one. But in practice this is of little use. The indicator silts up quickly, requires labor-intensive washing and, moreover, is located on the right side of the filter, i.e. not visible when hanging the filter on the right side wall of the aquarium. Another “trick” is the original design of the lock that secures the junction of the filter part and the pump, designed to simplify the disassembly process. In life, the opposite is true. In general, upon closer inspection, the filter does not give the impression of being “branded”. Quite low quality stamping, poorly fitted parts. And, as a result, user complaints about not quite high-quality filtration (due to idle water flow through “unprogrammed” gaps) or sudden strained rattling. The design of the standard diffuser cannot be considered successful either. Firstly, it is weak; secondly, it forces you to mount the filter near the surface. Moreover, a seemingly insignificant sliding down (and this often happens due to weakening of the vacuum suction cups) can deprive the inhabitants of the aquarium of air supply. The second purpose of the diffuser is to act as an adapter when connecting a hose. Both are a clear step back compared to the diffuser design of the Power Head pump-head, produced by the same Askoll plant. Fastening: soft, using a separate holder with three vacuum suction cups. The design, which remains completely identical to the old Fluval and Power Head pump, can still be set as an example for some other manufacturers. This is especially evident in a cichlid aquarium, where restive fish continually try to tear off the filter and throw it to the bottom. The soft fastener absorbs shock and holds the Fluval 4 Plus in place, but easily gives way when removing the filter from the aquarium. However, it is even more reliable in this case to rest the bulky filter on the bottom. Advantages: reliable, space for a fine cleaning liner or a sponge impregnated with carbon, modern and ergonomic design. Disadvantages: large dimensions, gets dirty quite quickly, the body does not protect well from dirt splashing out, large gaps - not acceptable for aquariums with fry. Possibility of modernization: none. Additional branded accessories and fillers: fine liner, carbon-impregnated sponge. Summary: Fluval 4 Plus could have inherited the reputation of a “mid-range economy class filter” from the previous Fluval-4, if it were not now so expensive. This certainly made him less competitive. But, despite a number of identified shortcomings, the aquarist who purchased it most likely will not regret wasting money.

AquaEl FAN-3 Manufacturer: AquaEl, Poland

It is the direct heir of another pioneer of the domestic market - the FAT filter, which, which may seem paradoxical, at one time gained enormous popularity among two dissimilar categories of aquarists: unlucky “dummies” who do not even have a basic understanding of biofiltration and turn off their filter at night, and sophisticated “pros” who know how to count money. But very few FATs have remained in good condition since then... They were replaced by “aquaels” of the new FAN line in a black case. Description: FAN is made according to the classical design; no fundamental design changes have occurred. Its main elements are: a pump, a glass, a cylindrical or rectangular sponge, placed on a grated suction pipe. The filter design is discreet but stylish. Large water intake slits are located at the bottom of the glass, made of transparent plastic. If necessary (and this sometimes arises, for example, when raising fry), the glass can be removed, and FAN-3 can easily turn into a filter head. The standard sponge is finely porous, capable of capturing fine suspended matter, but quickly silts up and is poorly suitable as a biosubstrate. A significantly better result is obtained if you replace it with a sponge made in Germany or Italy, for example, from the old Fluval-4. However, recently the AquaEl company itself has begun to produce such sponges, but of somewhat worse quality, although its standard filters are still equipped with fine-porous ones. The disadvantage of previous FATs was the frequent failure of the contaminated pump during the next turn off/on and the need for a “push start”. So, with FAN'om this practically doesn't happen anymore. Although, as the filler gets dirty, the filter loses a lot of performance. However, as a rule, it is initially smaller than the passport value. Therefore, the pressure regulator (in the form of a wheel in the front part of the pump), one might say, is an extra element, and the volume of up to 250 liters declared by AquaEl is clearly beyond FAN's capabilities. But where it really is not inferior to the most powerful internal filters from famous manufacturers is in sound! Its motor, despite all the efforts of the developers, makes noise as if it had not ten watts, but at least twice as much. However, those who dealt with FATs say that they were even louder... The vice model FAN-2 was much more successful in this regard. It is not very noisy and does a good job as a quick filter in a 100-liter aquarium. A distinctive design feature of the FAN filter line is the transparent dome with an outlet nozzle crowning the pump. This part is removable, which ensures easy removal of the impeller, and can rotate in a horizontal plane, thereby regulating the direction of water flow. But, unfortunately, it is unreliable and quickly becomes loose. In the early series it also served as an aerator - an extremely unsuccessful solution that reduced the already low performance of the pump. Filters of a later release are equipped with a removable diffuser, which is quite functional, but with such a loud sound that there is reason to wonder whether it would be better to install a full-fledged compressor? Fastening: soft, using a separate holder with four vacuum suction cups, made according to the same principle as that of the “fluva-la”. Equally convenient. But the quality of Polish suction cups has always caused criticism. They quickly harden, and the filter falls to the bottom, which, however, has little effect on its operation (except for aeration). You probably noticed that it is in this form that “aquaels” are used in commercial aquariums of many pet stores. Additional fasteners - using a bracket - are poorly applicable in aquariums with a lid and stiffeners. Advantages: inexpensive, relatively good mechanical filtration. Disadvantages: insufficient biofiltration, noisy (especially with an aerator), rapid contamination, discrepancy between the rated and actual performance. Possibility of modernization: dismantling the standard glass, converting it into: a) a filter head with a large-volume sponge; b) a homemade biofilter with a plastic bottle body filled with biofiller. Additional branded accessories and fillers: a set of “flutes” and corners, magnetic fasteners, bio-cartridge. Summary: despite its not entirely branded origin, a number of design flaws and noise, this filter, by and large, has everything necessary for successful use, especially if you put it in an aquarium one and a half to two times smaller than recommended by the manufacturer, and do not use a diffuser.

Eheim 2212 AquaBall Manufacturer: Eheim GmbH & Co, Germany

Eheim is the most popular and expensive brand among manufacturers of aquarium equipment for “mass consumption”. This, apparently, explains the enthusiasm that every failure causes in zealous aquarists. However, in the category of internal filters, as opposed to external ones, this brand has never been the undisputed leader. And the popularity of the AquaBall line extends most of all to its younger models. Description: made according to the principle of a classic filter head with a sponge. Although the filter material is covered with a casing, this lightweight lattice structure does not in any way affect the distribution of flows inside the filter, nor does it prevent dirt from splashing out when it is removed from the aquarium. However, despite the fact that from the point of view of the fundamental layout AquaBall is an undoubted step back compared to its predecessor Eheim Pick-Up, the developers of this filter cannot be reproached for conservatism. What attracts most attention is the fundamentally new, so far unparalleled, design of the rotating ball head, which, like a computer joystick, can be freely rotated in any direction and the output nozzle can be moved in any direction, including up or down. This is certainly very convenient. But what let the Germans down was their pedantic penchant for unification. All AquaBall models have pumps of the same design and only slightly differ in power (5-6 watts). As a result, it turned out that the younger models have excessive performance, and the older ones have insufficient performance. Although, unlike Fluval and especially Aquael, Eheim 2212 confidently develops its rated 650 l/h, experience shows that it copes very poorly with mechanical filtration. FAN-3 is much more convincing in this capacity. The reason is the excessive ratio of the volume of filter material and pump power. A weak pump is simply not able to properly flush the filter sections. Mechanical filtration is sacrificed to biological filtration. However, mechanical filtration can be improved by reducing the volume of media. Fortunately, the filtering part of the “aquaball” has a prefabricated design and consists of removable sections. The older model has a standard number of three, but it can be changed, depending on needs, both up and down. If you want to achieve passable mechanical filtration, you obviously don’t have to buy and install additional sections, but rather remove the standard ones. Another advantage of prefabricated sections is that, if necessary, they can be washed alternately and swapped. There is also a small upper compartment for a fine liner. Let us note that the branded Eheim liner is very expensive, so after it is completely dirty (after just a few days), it makes sense to fill this compartment with padding polyester (naturally, not ordinary household stuff, but a special one, preferably produced by the same Eheim, Sera or Hagen). But it’s even better, if you don’t want to repeat this procedure weekly, add biofiller there, as the manufacturer himself recommends, or leave the compartment empty altogether. True, the quality of fine cleaning will then deteriorate. The output flow regulator is made with high quality and is convenient, but the inability of the aerator to supply air in full and minimum performance modes is annoying. In addition, the diffuser has a short hose (5 cm). The diameter of the outlet nozzle is designed for a bulky 18/22 mm hose. This is also not very practical. But the horizontal direction of flow can be changed in two ways at once: by turning the ball head, or the entire filter in the arc-shaped fastener clamp. The vulnerable element of the design is the ceramic axis of the impeller (for others it is metal). If you disassemble carelessly, the filter sometimes breaks. The design of the filter can be an undoubted source of pride for its creators. In its appearance, AquaBall is perfectly suitable for an aquarium decorated with divers, Egyptian tombs and sunken Titanics. Fastening: via a separate holder with four strong vacuum suction cups. Advantages: reliable, convenient design that allows you to change the size of the filter, the presence of a fine cleaning compartment, the flow direction changes in all directions, good biofiltration, partly capable of biological self-cleaning, low noise, popular design. Disadvantages: expensive, weak mechanical filtration, the filter housing does not protect against splashing out dirt, the ceramic impeller axis is brittle, the diameter of the outlet nozzle is too large. Possibility of modernization: install/remove filter sections. Additional accessories and fillers: removable filter sections, EHFISUBSTRAT, EHFIKARBON. Summary: optimally suited for a beginner, but fairly wealthy aquarist, unless, of course, he decides to immediately acquire an external filter from the same manufacturer.

Crystal Duo R20II Manufacturer: Hydor, Italy

“Why buy Eheim if Hydor is cheaper and better?” - this could be the motto of this Italian manufacturer. In any case, this is what Hydor strives for. In practice, he does not always succeed in everything. And the Crystal Duo R20II receives conflicting reviews: from enthusiastic to devastating. Description: the design is based on the idea of ​​a two-glass filter. But it is implemented with the originality characteristic of Hydor products. The large and dark corner design resembles a fairytale dragon castle (very suitable for a cichlid aquarium decorated with rocks). A massive mounting frame with suction slots in the lower part serves as the outer casing, or more accurately, “half-casing”. The filter itself consists of four main prefabricated elements (from top to bottom): the upper (motor) and lower (water intake) parts of the pump, a small filter compartment, and the main filter compartment (glass). The small upper compartment can be filled with activated carbon (a small amount is included in the kit), padding polyester or bio-filler. The main sponge, oblong, rectangular in cross-section and slightly tapering downward, is fixed in the glass using a special grid. In total, there are five different gratings through which the flow in the filter passes: on the mounting frame, on the back side of the water intake part of the pump, inside the main filter compartment, at the inlet and outlet of the small compartment. They retain all the large dirt. Smaller particles accumulate on the sponge and the bottom of the glass, and even smaller ones accumulate in the upper compartment filled with synthetic padding. However, in this configuration, as in the case of the “aquaball”, the padding polyester has to be changed every week. It gets dirty very quickly. If, instead of padding polyester, you fill the upper compartment with a more easily permeable filter material, for example, a large-pored sponge cut to its size, the time of non-stop operation of the filter will increase several times. The total volume of filter material (sponge + upper compartment) and pump performance are very impressive. The pressure can be reduced by using a valve located in the front part of the pump. It is fixed in three positions: maximum, middle and minimum. Changing the flow direction (within 90 degrees horizontally) is achieved by rotating the filter in the mounting frame. The manufacturer’s declared aquarium volume of “over 200 liters” seems too optimistic, but for a 150-200 liter aquarium, the Crystal Duo R20II at first glance has everything for good filtration, both mechanical and biological. This assumption is initially confirmed in practice. However, after two or three washes, the filter sponge becomes deformed and does not fit tightly to the suction hole of the pump. As a result, an idle flow of water occurs, and it turns out that a powerful filter raises turbidity in the aquarium more than it filters. Of course, you can maintain stable filtration quality by constantly replacing a deformed sponge with a new one. But will this option suit you? The situation is better with aeration. The diffuser and air control valve are built into the roof of the pump housing. The design is collapsible and easy to clean. The diffuser is powerful, well adjustable and quite quiet; works at a depth of up to 10 cm. The pump itself initially also works almost silently, but after a few months it shows its true colors. And such a filter is no longer suitable for an aquarium in the bedroom. Moreover, coupled with the resonance that arises in the mounting frame, sometimes a sound emerges that not every air compressor can handle. Filter maintenance also leaves a mixed impression. On the one hand, its main elements are easily removed, while the dirt does not splash out, but remains inside the glass; on the other hand, completely washing Crystal Duo is a rather labor-intensive process. It consists of too many parts. Some misunderstandings may arise when keeping ancistrus and other catfish in an aquarium, which, when removing the filter, strive to immediately climb inside the “wings” of the mounting frame. It's difficult to get them out of there later. To do this, sometimes you have to remove the frame from the water. The size of the suction slits allows the fry to always freely penetrate inside. For some, this could result in death if they are sucked into the main body. Others, for example, small acistrus, happily settle inside the mounting frame, but when they grow up, they no longer fit into the cracks and are not able to get out on their own. Fastening: a feature of the Crystal Duo R20II is that it can only be installed in the corner of the aquarium; The holding frame is fixed rigidly with six vacuum suction cups. Advantages: powerful pump, large volume of filter material, presence of a compartment for activated carbon or a fine filter insert, glass design prevents dirt from splashing out, good aeration. Disadvantages: bulky, with use, idle water flow and noise appear, it is attached only in the corner, heavy load on the upper small compartment (it gets clogged quickly), large suction slots are dangerous for fry. Possibility of modernization: no. Additional branded accessories and fillers: no. Summary: In the first two to three months of use, this filter will seem optimal, especially from a cost-effectiveness point of view, but later you may have to look for a replacement.

While writing this material, another favorite of the “race”, TetraTec IN1000, left the race. The first issue of Aquarium Magazine already reported on the breakup of the German company Tetra with the real manufacturer of filters sold under its label - the Italian company Hydor, which decided to focus on strengthening its own brand. However, I don’t think we should regret this loss too much. The fact is that the IN1000 has proven itself to be far from the best internal filter, although it is very easy to maintain. The most complaints were caused by the quality of mechanical filtration, the reason is still the same - the passage of water current past the sponges. More successful from this point of view were the single-section models IN800 and IN400. TetraTec is now produced in Poland. Despite the catchy “Plus” and “New” inscriptions, it has changed little in terms of design and has become neither cheaper nor better.

(open summary table in new tab to enlarge)

Additionally:

Testing filters for a small aquarium. Part I

Testing filters for a small aquarium. Part II.

Testing filters for a small aquarium. Part III.

How to extend the life of filtering equipment?

To extend the period of use, perform the following measures:

• All elements and components are cleaned in accordance with the recommendations specified in the instructions.
• To prevent fish, shellfish and plants from absorbing toxins and harmful substances, the units must work constantly.
• The devices are started only if there is a sufficient amount of liquid in the tank.
• Cleaning of the unit is carried out after the electrical power supply is interrupted. The wiring is disconnected carefully.
• Study the instructions, which describe how to properly install the equipment.

A few words about the manufacturer

Aquael is a Polish manufacturer of equipment and accessories for aquariums, producing filters, pumps, heaters, components and consumables that may be needed during maintenance.
The products comply with the requirements of current regulatory documents and are supplied with quality and safety certificates.

The brand’s equipment operates reliably and has a long service life, which is appreciated by European consumers.

For production, high quality plastic is used, which is resistant to mechanical damage. The surface of the material does not allow the formation of deposits.

Types of filters by installation method

As we just found out, electric filters can be installed both inside and outside the aquarium. External models, in turn, are divided into mounted and canister models.

Internal filters

The most popular devices that provide effective cleaning at an affordable price. Despite the fact that the most powerful models are designed for aquariums up to 500 liters, this is quite enough for most aquarists. Such filters are compact and almost do not reduce the volume of the aquarium. In large tanks they are used for additional filtration in tandem with external devices.

Internal filter

Note! The principle of operation is based on the fact that the built-in pump creates a stream of water that is reflected from the walls and raises suspended particles. The latter, in turn, are absorbed by the filter.

The most effective internal filters are considered to be “glasses” (closed models). Their productivity is limited (no more than 200 liters), but their efficiency is quite high. There are also filter heads, air lifts, etc., but we will talk about them below.

Airlift options

External filters

They have high productivity, so they are installed in aquariums with a volume of 150-1500 liters. As you can guess from the name, such devices are installed outside. Using a hose, water from the aquarium is supplied to the external filter and, after passing through all layers of filler, returns back through the second tube. The advantages also include reliability, a full filtration cycle, ease of operation and durability. There are only two disadvantages - high noise level and size.

External aquarium filter

Conclusion

• If you want to purchase a powerful and efficient external aquarium filter, then pay attention to the model 3313HF.
• Look for a durable and versatile device - the 608 aquarium filter model.
• Quiet and easy to use, the 1408 filter is suitable for marine and freshwater tanks.
• Filter model 2218KF is highly efficient and provides multi-stage cleaning.
• For 800 liter aquariums, the 3328UVF filter is suitable.
• The 350KF internal filter can be combined with other devices for purifying water in the aquarium.
• The 700FC filter provides biochemical and chemical filtration.
• Filter 04213 is a budget compact filter model.
• Filter 7321F is suitable for aquariums with shrimp and small fish

Which is the best filter for an aquarium?

When choosing a cleaner, you need to pay attention to a number of factors:

1. The type of fish that will live in the aquarium.
2. The noise produced by the filter.
3. Aquarium filter filler.
4. Easy to assemble/disassemble and clean the device.
5. Aquarium volume.

Beginners in keeping fish often wonder how to choose a filter for an aquarium? It is recommended to start with the simplest device. You can purchase an external airlift filter for your aquarium, it is easy to install and maintain, is very effective and has many functions and saturates the water with oxygen.

Mechanical filter for aquarium

The purpose of these devices is to purify the water from fish excrement, food residues and dead organisms. Mechanical filtration for an aquarium is the simplest and most common method. Has many positive aspects:

1. Suitable for small aquariums.
2. Affordable price.
3. Easy to maintain and use.
4. Effectively filters water and purifies it from contaminants.

The device has a couple of disadvantages:

1. A strong flow of water can injure the inhabitants of the aquarium.
2. Noisy.

Chemical filter for aquarium

In this purification method, water, passing through sorbents - activated carbon and resins, is filtered and comes out enriched with minerals, nutrients and oxygen. A chemical cleaning method is suitable if the liquid is poisoned or the fish are sick. An aquarium water filter has many advantages:

1. Provides plants with the necessary nutrients thanks to continuous renewal of water.
2. Enriches the bottom with oxygen.
3. The fish are constantly moving due to the small current, which is similar to fitness.
4. Removes toxic substances from water.

In addition to this, there are also disadvantages:

1. Due to the current generated by the filter, algae appears.
2. Difficult to care for. Inexperienced aquarists use ordinary pharmaceutical charcoal as a sorbent; the filter crushes it into crumbs and kills fish by clogging the gills.

Biological filter for aquarium

The cleaner helps in the growth of bacteria that absorb unwanted substances. As a result of interaction with microorganisms, toxic ammonia becomes harmless nitrate. This method of filtering water in an aquarium is not used alone and is combined with the mechanical method, so their positive and negative sides are the same. Among the advantages are:

1. Makes aquarium hygiene easier.
2. No influence on chemical processes.
3. Low cost of equipment.

The disadvantages include:

1. Reducing the effective height of the aquarium.
2. Quick filter contamination.

Combination filter for aquarium

Even a professional aquarist wonders which aquarium filter is best? Before you buy several types of purifiers, you need to find out whether you need two or three filtration methods at once. To do this, you need to determine the advantages of the combined method of water purification:

1. Suitable for large aquariums with a huge number of marine life: fish, shellfish and plants.
2. Combines the functions of mechanical, chemical and biological filtration methods.
3. Purifies water from contaminants and provides high aeration of water.

The combined filter for aquariums also has several disadvantages:

1. Very high price. All purifiers are purchased separately or assembled, which is expensive.
2. Difficult to maintain.
3. It spoils the design and appearance of the aquarium.
4. If installed incorrectly, a fish may swim into the filter; at best, the filter will become faulty.

Selection rules

Before purchasing an internal aquarium filter, it is recommended to gather information about it. When choosing, first of all, pay attention to the volumes for which it is intended. It should be taken into account that you cannot buy “end-to-end”; it is advisable to purchase a filter with a volume larger than necessary. For example, for a 30-liter aquarium, equipment designed for a tank from 30 to 60 liters is suitable, but not from 0 to 30.

A Chinese water purifier for an aquarium is not worth buying. It’s better to spend money once by buying a German or Polish device. Chinese is a game of roulette: sometimes it breaks down a month after purchase, and sometimes it lasts for five to six years. It is difficult to predict the timing of work here.

Advantages

An internal filter with an aeration function has advantages and disadvantages. Its advantages include:

• Adjustable direction of filtered water flow;
• Simplicity of design;
• Easy to assemble, install and clean;
• Availability. The devices are much cheaper than external filters;
• Safety. In the event of equipment depressurization, a flood is excluded due to the internal location in the tank;
• Reliability. Will last for the entire declared operational life;
• Virtually no noise.

Flaws

The disadvantages of internal water purification devices include:

• Considerable space occupied in the aquarium;
• The appearance of the case stands out from the general background. The view is quite far from being close to natural, it is almost impossible to disguise it, except to cover it with some kind of snag;
• Capacity is limited, devices are produced with a volume of up to 300 liters. We have already talked about the need for double capacity, so for large tanks you will have to purchase an external water purifier.

Chemical filters and aquarium filtration

– these are filters that provide filtration through various sorbents. The most common adsorbent is activated carbon. Various ion exchange resins, such as zeolites, are widely used in aquarium farming. Filters that provide the possibility of additional chemical filtration are more practical than mechanical ones. Sorbents are capable of absorbing harmful chemical impurities contained in water (chlorine, heavy metals), and ion exchange resins effectively fight poisons - ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, which are formed and gradually accumulate in any aquarium during the life of aquatic organisms.

Chemical

Here filtration occurs using activated carbon or zeolite. When passing through the adsorbent, water is deodorized and foreign impurities are removed. Chemical is capable of purifying the aquatic environment from toxic chemical elements. This is one of the most effective cleaning methods;

Biological

Inside such filters, nitrifying bacteria live on the substrate, which decompose toxic ammonia into safe nitrite. They then process this chemical compound into nitrate. The pores of ceramics usually act as a substrate for bacteria;

Aeration

They consist of a pump, sponge and special filter material. Silent. During operation, the pump passes liquid through the pores of the filler, and then sucks it out of the tube. In this way, oxygen enters the tank and mixes with water. But it is worth considering that in a contaminated aquarium this species works less efficiently;

Combined

They combine different types of filtration: with three cleaning methods and with two.

From a mechanical one, you can make a combined one by adding a sponge with activated carbon.

During the selection process, it is important to find out all the characteristics of the purifier!

Installation of the bottom filter

Already from the name of this purifier it is clear that it is installed on the bottom of an aquatic fish house. But the choice of this type of filter is resorted to only when there is very little or no decorative bottom aquatic vegetation in the aquarium.

Such a device is a relatively thin plate with internal filter material and many holes through which water flows. Some believe that such a plate with tubes attached to it can simply be placed on the ground and that will be enough.

This is a misconception - the bottom cleaner must be installed, and not just placed.

First, you need to remove the soil from the bottom of the aquarium (or from a separate area) and place a plastic frame that will raise the false bottom by 2-3 mm. Only after this can the technical device be covered with soil and then put into operation.

Not only the purity and high-quality chemical and biological composition of the water, but also the degree of its saturation with air depends on the correct installation of any aquarium filter. In addition, this determines the reliability of the device itself. In any case: before the water purifier is put into operation, you must carefully read the instructions attached to it and strictly follow the rules specified in it.

Assembly/disassembly process

From time to time there is a need to clean the filter. Before disassembling, the device is turned off from the power supply, removed from the holder, and removed from the water.

To disconnect the glass from the top of the device, you need to simultaneously press its side edges from above. The head part contains a hermetically sealed drive.

When disassembling, it is necessary to remove the chamber cover and then remove the rotor for subsequent washing.

Assembly is performed in reverse order. It is recommended to check after completion of work that the motor shaft rotates freely.

How to clean the filter in an aquarium?

Caring for the device is not a difficult task, the main thing is that it is done regularly. Some parents, fearing for their children, choose aquariums without corners, but are afraid that the cleaners for them are very expensive or difficult to use and maintain. In fact, a filter for a round aquarium is inexpensive and just as easy to clean as a standard one:

1. Cleaners should be washed as often as required by the device. In a small filter, dirt accumulates faster and therefore they need to be cleaned 1-2 times a week; large units can be washed once every couple of months.
2. Cleaning the filter should be done as quickly as possible and always in water. This is due to the fact that in the device, in addition to accumulated dirt, there are colonies of microorganisms that affect the biological balance of the aquatic environment.

Additional accessories

Large-pored sponges from the manufacturer do not deform and do not lose their appearance even after a year of constant use. However, the filtration efficiency drops significantly at this point. To keep your aquarium clean, you need to change the filter fiber twice a year.

To maintain high-quality filtration, you need to regularly change the filter fiber

Rubber loses its elasticity when exposed to water, and the suction cups no longer adhere tightly to the glass. The deeper the aquarium, the greater the trouble that will result from neglecting the replacement of this element. New suction cups are installed as they wear out , usually annually. For shock absorption of more powerful models, special rubber mounts are produced that reduce vibration.

The effect of a waterfall and the murmur of water can be created using a flute. The sprinkler head also enhances the enrichment of oxygen in the liquid. Flutes for all filter models help the purified water to be distributed evenly.

The miniature Mini UV sterilizer exposes water to short-wave ultraviolet irradiation, which leads to the death of pathogenic bacteria and tiny algae. There is no need to keep the device turned on all the time. The sterilization procedure is carried out only a few hours on one day of the week. If necessary, you can do this more often. For example, if the fish began to get sick or a slight cloudiness appeared caused by the activity of bacteria. The sterilizer is installed on the filter outlet nozzle. There are four UV LEDs inside the device. Given the lack of need for additional maintenance and the presence of autonomous power supply, this is an ideal choice for Micro, Mini and 1 models.

For larger filters – models 2 and 3 – the Multi UV sterilizer is more suitable. The size and design are much simpler. A three-watt light bulb is inserted into one of the included modules; the choice depends on the filter model used. The resulting connection is placed between the filter head and the glass with the sponge. No additional maintenance is required for the sterilizer. The light bulb will have to be changed only after its service life has expired (5 thousand hours).

Best internal

It is worth noting once again that the best filter for each aquarium should be selected depending on the parameters of the aquarium or the preferences of the aquarist, but we tried to select the most popular models.

• Powerful filter EHEIM Classic. The German company EHEIM produces powerful and silent models. They are reliable and durable to use. Suitable for large freshwater and marine aquariums. Among the disadvantages, the high price stands out.
• Tetra tetratec. The German company Tetra, in addition to food, produces water purification filters. They have a reasonable price and good quality. Devices from this brand are the best aquarium filters on the market. The company produces the tetra tetratec model, which is suitable for any tank with a volume of up to 500 liters.
• Aquael minikani. The Aquael company produces good filters that are suitable for small tanks. The aquael minikani model is reliable and easy to use. Equipped with large volume filtration material. Models from this campaign occupy leading positions in the rating of water purifiers.

Advantages of Aquael

The effectiveness of Aquael products is confirmed by the experience of many aquarists. Transparent water improves the aesthetic component of the appearance of the vessel indoors, and also guarantees good health for the fish and prolongs their life.

The manufacturer takes his business seriously. High-quality high-tech devices produced by the company last longer than their competitors. The warranty period for the FAN series is three years.

Aqual filters are easy to use and good for beginners. The devices are easy to install and clean.

There are no products in the series with a degree of protection lower than IP68. This marking means that the mechanism is completely protected from water penetration. Thanks to this, complete safety is achieved during uninterrupted operation and complete immersion of the body in water.

Aquarium filter manufacturers

When choosing a filter, pay attention to the manufacturer. Below are the best of them.

Review of aquarium filter manufacturers

Table. Popular manufacturers of aquarium filters.

Important! We do not recommend buying filters from little-known Chinese brands. Not only because of the high probability of defects, but also because of poor quality assembly (in most cases). You can purchase such equipment only as a temporary replacement.

How to choose

In addition to the type of device, it is worth paying attention to a number of other characteristics:

It is considered optimal to choose a filter that does not have to be cleaned more often than the entire aquarium as a whole.

Features of installation and operation

To install the filter correctly, first remember that this device should never be placed in an aquarium without liquid. This is due to the fact that when installing the element, you should definitely look at what level the water is at. Before assembling such a unit, you need to thoroughly dry all its parts. This only applies to filters purchased unassembled.

If an internal cleaning element has been chosen for installation in the aquarium, then a three-centimeter depth is ideal. This will allow the filter to remain within the water even if the moisture evaporates abundantly and the temperature increases. Also make sure that the device is attached to the wall of the fish house using suction cups. It should not touch the bottom of the container. In order to avoid having to deepen the bottom or add water, buy a filtration device that will fit well into the space of the artificial reservoir.

Be sure to check the length of the cord before determining where to place the unit inside the tank containing marine life. To ensure that the cable does not wear out or is accidentally pulled out of the socket or adapter, it must be sufficient. Otherwise, if the filter is not working, at least occasionally, the fish will begin to get sick due to sharply deteriorated living conditions. Remember to take precautions and immerse the unit in an artificial pond only when it is turned off. In addition, this will allow the device to be properly fixed to the glass wall, and the stream of water issued will not interfere with the installation process.

Then lead the separate air intake tube (if present) outside. To prevent it from falling into an artificial pond, securely fix it. Experienced aquarists recommend buying filter elements with tubes that already have special fasteners. After all of the above has been done, plug in the device. You will know that the filter is working by the appearance of a current inside the artificial reservoir. To ensure that the filter lasts long enough after purchase, follow the following operating rules:

1. Change the litter regularly if an internal cleaning element has been installed. It should be remembered that the more it is overloaded, the more biological waste from fish it will contain.
2. If a chemical device is installed in the aquarium, replace the carbon as it becomes dirty. You can purchase new litter at any pet store.
3. External filters also require constant removal of contaminants. For information on how often to do this, read the manufacturer's instructions.

No aquarium without a filter will provide a comfortable existence for fish. Select such devices correctly, taking into account the capacity of the artificial reservoir. It is equally important to clean the filters regularly. Only in this case will marine life be healthy.