DIY aquarium filter: how to make a homemade biofilter from a sponge and other materials

JBL

Together with the filter, the kit includes a full set of fillers, including large- and fine-pored sponges, ceramic cylinders and balls.
More recently, the e700, 900 and 1500 series were updated to the “Greenline” e701, 901 and 1501, which was due to the introduction of new JBL MicroMec Sinterglas Biofilterballs instead of the old blue ones, as well as improvements to the coil and impeller (the new one has 3 blades), which led to significant reduction in energy consumption.

Table 7. Line of external filters “CristalProfi e” from JBL.

The illustration on the left is the JBL CristalProfi e900.

For the most part, there are only positive reviews about JBL CristalProfi e external filters. This characterizes them as reliable, quiet and efficient devices.

Rounding out the range of the most popular canister filters are samples from the Chinese company Jebo. The most popular among them are in descending order: Jebo 828 (1200 l/hour; 28 W), Jebo 825 (1000 l/hour; 22 W), Jebo 809 (1200 l/hour; 30 W), Jebo 835 (1000 l /hour; 22 W), Jebo 829 (1500 l/hour; 35 W). As with any Chinese product, the quality of Jebo filters varies greatly from product to product. Based on user reviews, several negative aspects can be identified, which are found to varying degrees in the samples. These include lower pump performance than stated; high energy consumption than similar filters from other manufacturers; low quality plastic, presence of burrs and chips; frequent leaks of faucets (the design is similar to Atman and JBL faucets) and at the junction of the machine block with the canister, sometimes starting when the filter is disconnected from the network; difficult launch. The advantages of these filters include low price and relatively silent operation (if the air is completely removed during startup). The design of Jebo filters consists of a machine unit connected to a canister using two clips. Inside the latter there are 2 or 3 sections with fillers (from bottom to top - large-porous sponge, ceramics, coal), each of which is covered with felt. The water flows by gravity through the channel in sections to the bottom of the canister, from where, after passing through the filter material, it rushes to the exit.

Tetra tec (Tetra)

Among Tetra tec (Tetra) aquarium equipment, the series of external filters Tetratec ex 400, 600, 700, 1200 and 2400 deserves special attention (400 and 2400 appeared later). The numerical index indicates the maximum output in l/hour. The junior model is designed for aquariums with a volume of 10-60 liters, the middle one - 60-120, ex 700 for 100-250, ex 1200 for 200-500 liters and, finally, ex 2400 for 500-1000 liters. Despite the fact that this line, released in 2005, is the first experience of the German company Tetra in creating external filters, they are in great demand.

The illustration shows an external filter Tetratec ex700.

Like any modern canister filters, tetratecs provide three-stage (biological, chemical and mechanical) filtration. The kit includes 5 types of filter media: Tetratec CR ceramic rings; bio-sponge Tetratec BF; Tetratec BB bio-balls for removing large and medium-sized dirt particles; Tetratec CF carbon media to remove harmful organic matter and Tetratec FF fiber pad to filter out microparticles. During filter maintenance, water access to it is closed by taps. Sections with fillers are easily removed using handles. The subsequent start-up of the device does not require suction of water, thanks to the integrated automatic start system.

The advantages of Tetra tec filters include quietness, performance, a large canister with several compartments for fillers, and an attractive appearance. Among the shortcomings, there were cases of leakage from under the side fastening, at the junction of the canister with the head, and near the adapter, which is associated with errors in the design of some tetratecs.

Tetra tec easycrystal internal filters, for the most part, are not very popular among buyers, with the exception of Tetratec easycrystal 300, designed for small aquariums with a volume of 50-60 liters. As a filter material, the model includes a double-sided filter sponge, the white side of which carries out preliminary filtration, and the green side for fine cleaning, as well as bio-balls and activated carbon for biological and chemical cleaning. The Tetratec easycrystal 300 housing contains a module for installing a thermostat.

Table 2. Tetratec EX external filter range.

Are additional cleaners needed for such a volume?

There is no need for an additional filter in the aquarium if the one that is available fully copes with its responsibilities. With an increase in the number of fish or plants in the aquarium, it is necessary to take into account the increase in pollution, then in this case, installing an additional filter is necessary.

It is necessary to carefully select a filter, because it is better to take one high-quality, powerful and expensive one than several cheap ones, which will spoil the entire aesthetics and not do their job properly.

Choosing the right filter not only creates the right appearance, but also the necessary conditions for the fish to stay in the aquarium. You need to choose a filter based on its volume, but do not forget about the plant environment and compliance with the needs of the fish.

Wash the filter correctly

Simply washing the filter may not be the best idea, as this may destroy the colony of beneficial bacteria in it. Therefore, it is important not to wash the filter when you make any major changes in the aquarium - a large water change, change the type of food or frequency of feeding the fish, or introduce new fish.

At such moments it is very important that the balance is stable, and the filter is a large part of the stable balance in the aquarium.

Cleaning the biological filter

Sponges are most often considered as a mechanical filter that retains dirt from the water. Your fish, however, don't care how crystal clear the water is; in nature, they live in less than ideal conditions. But for them it is important that the water contains as little decay products as possible, such as ammonia.

And the bacteria that live on the surface of the sponge in your filter are responsible for the decomposition of ammonia and other harmful substances. And it is very important to wash the filter so as not to destroy most of these bacteria.

Sudden changes in temperature, pH, chlorinated tap water all kill bacteria. To wash the washcloth in the filter, use water from the aquarium, just rinse it in this water until it becomes more or less clean.

Striving for sterility in this case is harmful. You can do the same with hard parts - karmic or plastic balls.

Replacing filters

Many aquarists change the washcloths in the filter too often, as recommended in the instructions. The sponge in the filter needs to be changed only if it has lost its filtering ability or has begun to lose its strength. And this happens no earlier than a year and a half later.

It is also important to change no more than half at a time. For example, in the internal filter, the washcloths consist of several parts and only one can be changed at a time.

If you replace only part, then bacteria from old surfaces will quickly colonize new ones and there will be no imbalance. By taking a break of a couple of weeks, you will be able to completely replace the old contents with new ones and not damage the aquarium.

Impeller care

All aquarium filters contain an impeller. An impeller is a cylindrical magnet with an impeller that serves to create a flow of water, and is attached to a metal or ceramic pin. Over time, algae, bacteria and other debris accumulate on the impeller and make it difficult to operate.

Cleaning the impeller is very simple - remove it from the pin, rinse it under high pressure water, and wipe the pin itself with a rag. The most common mistake is when they simply forget about it. Contamination significantly reduces the life of the impeller and the most common cause of filter failures is contamination of the impeller.

Develop your own aquarium filter maintenance schedule, write down the last time you did it, and regularly check the levels of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in your water.

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Types of filter elements

Filtration of aquarium water itself can be

• mechanical (separation of grains of small debris)
• biochemical (neutralization of harmful impurities and substances).

These are the problems that filter materials are designed to solve in the aquatic environment.

Sponge filter

The most common filter element is special sponges, fine-porous and large-porous. Water, forcedly passing through the pores of the sponge, leaves mechanical debris in it (residues of food, plants, other foreign substances).

After about 6-7 days of work, colonies of beneficial bacteria form on the sponge, carrying out biological treatment (for example, from excess nitrates and nitrogenous compounds). Such sponges must be cleaned of accumulated debris after about 2 weeks of operation.

The exact timing of cleaning and its procedure must be indicated in the operating instructions for the filter.

Filter with foam filling.

Activated carbon

Another type of filter media is activated carbon. Thanks to its chemical properties, it purifies water more efficiently.

But with such filters you need to be extremely careful: when activated carbon is completely saturated with harmful impurities, it spontaneously releases them into the environment. In the worst case, this phenomenon can even lead to the death of the inhabitants of the aquarium.

Experienced aquarists do not recommend using such aquarium cleaners.

Biofillers made of multiporous ceramics

They are becoming more and more widespread. These can also be special ceramic balls. Beneficial bacteria quickly settle on such a surface, creating large colonies.

The efficiency of biological purification of the aquatic environment increases many times over. Naturally, such filter elements are used in conjunction with mechanical cleaning filters.

Ceramic filler.

Peat fillers

Some fish (for example characins) like soft acidic water. For these purposes, granulated peat is used. It oxidizes the water, makes it softer and can also slightly tint it, giving it a light tea color. This property of peat is highly valued by aquarists seeking to recreate certain biotopes.

From the editor: Limnophila sessile flowering

POMP+SPONGE: aquarium mini-filter and pre-filter

Today we will talk about how to improve the performance of an aquarium filter. In particular, about the prefilter. Many beginners ask what it is, what it is made of, where it comes from, why it is needed at all and who needs it.

Let's figure out whether it is worth installing a prefilter in your aquarium. First, something about the “pump and sponge”.

Most beginners equip their aquariums with the simplest internal filters for reasons of economy, while many experienced aquarists (including professional sellers and fish breeders) confidently prefer the same simple and reliable method of water purification (the only difference is the size of the sponge).

Let's immediately agree to consider the pump (pump) and sponge an integral part of any filtration equipment: one way or another, we need to drive water through the simplest (sponge) or more complex (canister with many different fillers, sump, phytofilter) “treatment facilities.”

Whether you bought an internal filter or an external one (canister or waterfall), the water movement in it is ensured by a pump.

Because the sponges in these filters are too small in volume for at least some kind of biofiltration, and the pores in these sponges are too large: small debris flies through them without stopping.

If you wash the filter every time it is required (almost every 3 days!), then on the balance in the aquarium (if it is not a completely plant-based shrimp tank), an inexperienced water kettle can immediately be given a fat cross: bacteria have no chance of breeding in such a sponge.

They need time, conditions (food + oxygen) and rest. “That’s why many aquarists, including myself, equip their aquariums with external filters.

You don’t immediately think about the real usefulness and effectiveness of the most popular FANs; at first you firmly believe that the filter is working in the aquarium. https://zolotie-ruki.com.ua/refrigerator repair.htm If the standard “fan” sponge is left unwashed for 2 weeks, the filter will inevitably begin to drive muddy water through the water.

I repeat: we are talking about a typical beginner’s aquarium with fish and some not too lush plants. Considering the craze among new aquarists for goldfish, the “small, dirty aquarium with a mini-filter and sad goldfish” is very common.

The glass is a different story. It doesn’t add any special beauty, but it makes an excellent dump. You need to feel this when removing the disconnected filter from the water for cleaning.

I advise beginners: before turning off the power, close the grate of your favorite glass with your palm under water, then unplug the plug from the socket and carefully pull out the filter, trying not to “lose” the water into the aquarium. It’s better to look for filter installers at https://poiskpro.com

Over time - after 1.5 - 2 months - the question arises: “why is it - like a filter - needed at all, and what should we do now so that the water is cleaned?”, and then a solution is found: throw out the stupid glass and replace the original sponge with a new one, rounder in shape, twice the size and smaller in pores).

In the photo above you can see that the sponge on the left (the size of a FAN 1 glass) is better (I explained why at length above) than the “native” sponge (on the right). I don’t even want to talk about the smaller glass (from FAN mini plus), but there is also the most popular FAN micro! - Yes, a small, beautiful black thing that creates the appearance of water purification.

At the same time, I in no way undertake to say that pumps from FANs work poorly . Vice versa. The main thing is to “feed” them correctly into the aquarium. Without glasses and with normal sponges - no headaches))

Like this. I gave you some food for thought, then decide for yourself. Since you may misunderstand me and think that Aquael internal mini filters are “absolute evil,” I’ll explain:

A few more words about the size of the sponge. The larger the sponge, the better: more space for both catching fine suspended matter and for the life of beneficial bacteria. That is, you have to wash a large sponge much less often than a small one.

It is almost impossible to wash out a critical mass of nitrifying bacteria from a large sponge. Attention! One of the favorite mistakes of especially clean beginners is to rinse aquarium sponges in the washing machine until it squeaks or boil. This is sabotage, comrades, despite the best intentions.

Remember: wash the sponge in a bucket with drained aquarium water so that it passes water normally, but is not completely clean . — Useful aquarium microflora is our everything. No bacteria - no balance. No balance - no life. Therefore, it is important to observe moderation when cleaning the aquarium and not doom your pets to undeserved torment.

Let me generalize: a pump + sponge in an aquarium is a completely working option, which, with the correct organization (soil, plants, population) of a home “reservoir”, is quite capable of coping with water purification (without “heroic efforts” on the part of the aquarist).

However, my personal experience speaks in favor of external filters... with prefilters! A “prefilter” is simply a pre-filter, most often in the form of a medium-porous sponge.

What is it for? — To clean debris from water entering the filter from the aquarium. (A filter for rough (mechanical) purification of tap water, installed in front of the meter, works in approximately the same way.)

The sponge reliably retains food residues, plant particles, small snails and other aquarium debris, so the water in the filter undergoes only chemical and biological treatment, and the filter itself is practically not contaminated and has to be washed much less frequently.

If without a pre-filter the external filter would have to be cleaned monthly (sometimes weekly), then with a pre-cleaning sponge - about once every six months, or even less often. Is it good?

Judge for yourself: Plus, dragging a heavy canister back and forth, disconnecting and attaching tubes, sorting out fillers... Why often, if you can occasionally?

Of course, such a disaster will befall the aquarist only if he is reluctant to clean the external filter as needed. This is the other extreme.

To make it even more “visual”, imagine a vacuum cleaner clogged with garbage, which is used to “clean” again and again without emptying the dust container. - This is exactly the case when an aquarium filter does more harm than good.

There is also the possibility of a long emergency power outage in the absence of the aquarist. After a couple of hours, all the beneficial bacteria inside the canister die (they need oxygen supplied with the flow of water to live).

For many pathogenic microorganisms, oxygen, on the contrary, is harmful, and in its absence they will begin to rapidly multiply, feeding on the waste accumulated in the filter.

Now imagine what will end up in the aquarium when the electricity is turned on again and the stagnant filter starts working. Accordingly: less dirt initially, cleaner final “exhaust”, even in this case.

Now, I hope, everyone understands that the prefilter greatly facilitates the care of the “aquarium vacuum cleaner”. We lazy aquarists really like this)

And this is not the only argument in favor of a pre-cleaning sponge: Fish, shrimp, and shellfish (the smaller ones) crawl into open tubes and any crevices.

Loaches, guppies, cockerels, eleotris, filter feeders, macrobrachiums, dwarf crayfish, snails and cherry shrimp strive to explore the uninhabited corners of the aqua, often at risk to life.

The Internet is full of stories about “in-canister” colonies of cherry shrimp. I feel safer with a prefilter.

I have prefilters in all my aquariums, even 5-liter ones, and I’m very pleased. It’s very easy and quick to rinse just the pre-cleaning sponge once a week, and you should see how many different things are collected in it... But I don’t go into the filter itself for six months (in densely populated jars) or longer (in aquariums with low fish density) .

On the plus side, I hope everything is clear to everyone. There are none, in my opinion. However, the prefilter still takes up some “additional” volume in the aquarium, but for me this is not critical: the water is clean, the shrimp are in sight, the safety of aquatic organisms is guaranteed, and if for some reason the bacteria in the canister filters die, I will always I can quickly restore the population by simply squeezing the prefilter lightly into a washed canister: both the desired culture and the nutrient medium “in one bottle”)

In which aquarium can you put an extra sponge? - Absolutely any. Anywhere will be beneficial.

It is better not to use the smallest porous sponge, nor the coarsely porous one: the sponge should retain debris in its pores, and not on its surface, without letting “mechanical impurities” into the inside of the filter.

If dirt settles on the outside of the sponge, it will inevitably end up all in the aquarium when you turn off the filter and try to remove it from the water for rinsing. The prefilter is “purchased” from an aquarium store, delivery to the regions is no longer a problem.

This has proven itself very well in my modest aquarium farm : it looks “decent”, holds debris well, even small ones, lasts a long time, is washed and installed easily (the standard hole in it can be “adapted” to your needs using an ordinary knife) .

To be completely frank, square jaws are no worse than cylindrical ones , take the one you like best)

You can, of course, use an ordinary plastic mesh (sometimes garlic is sold in these) in several layers as a “prefilter”, or a piece of nylon stocking, or a small sponge “plug”... or something else less noticeable in the aqua. — You’ll get tired of rinsing, but it’s of little use, you can check it if you like))

In this case, small debris is easily sucked into the filter through the mesh while it is free, and then very quickly plant particles cover all the inlet holes, and that’s it... urgently need to clean the prefilter!

As an option, you can buy a special metal or plastic mesh nozzle. Some people like it. You can try it. For me, a sponge is an order of magnitude better: it’s prettier, more reliable in terms of protecting living creatures from injury, and easier to maintain.

The sponge absorbs water over its entire surface, from all sides, so its throughput is not affected by leaves and other fragments of aquarium plants stuck here and there, especially if the sponge has the shape of a cylinder (there are no flat side surfaces).

Personally, I came to the conclusion that it is best to put the sponge directly on the tube, so I cut off the lattice tips of the water intake tubes (as in the picture).

Removing the prefilter for washing is very convenient. At the same time, I completely remove the pumps from the water, and temporarily plug the intake pipe of the waterfall filter with a piece of sponge (so that no one gets in))

Attention! Some sponges sold in aquarium stores must be pre-soaked and rinsed in running water due to the resins they contain, but most modern aquarium sponges are phenolic-free and can be placed immediately (after rinsing) into the aquarium.

When should you change the sponge? - When it becomes “flabby” and loses its original shape and elasticity. In the photo you can see a good sponge and one that needs to be replaced. Still, even a well-worn medium-porous sponge works better as a prefilter than a new, large-porous sponge.

In the top right photo you can see some sponges. I will choose the third one for the prefilter (if it is not completely crumbling yet) or the first one, homemade, for a while.

For some reason, the second one works worse in my opinion. The fourth - supplied with Aquael filters - in my opinion, is only suitable as a filler for external filters: the pores are too large.

If you can’t buy a sponge in a store, you can use regular foam rubber as a prefilter (only clean and, preferably, unpainted). I often had to do this. It works quite well, it just gets clogged faster and is more noticeable in the aquarium.

It is easy to sew a pre-cleaning sponge from foam rubber. I keep a few of these homemade sponges in case there are no “branded” ones on sale. In general, I prefer to have a couple of “extra” sponges in reserve.

I thoroughly rinse the homemade prefilters used as a temporary replacement in water, and then soak them for 5-10 minutes in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate (by the way, it turned out that you can “get it” not only at the pharmacy, but also in gardening stores), rinse , I wring it out, dry it and put it in the nightstand until next time.

It’s inconvenient to use foam rubber all the time: it gets clogged too quickly, you need to wash it too often, and it looks worse than a black “aquarium” sponge. You can sew a foam rubber prefilter from a strip 1 - 2 cm thick (thicker is not necessary: ​​it will be very difficult to rinse).

We take a needle, thread (regular or synthetic), “take measurements” and sew. Very simple, over the top. Then you can turn the seam inside out - I like it better)

Look at the photos and everything will be clear to you. The size and appearance of a handmade prefilter entirely depend on your desire and imagination.

I hope everything is clear to you with the prefilter. If you want, put it, if you want, no, it’s up to the owner. In conclusion, I’ll add that I tried different types of prefilters: mesh, synthetic wool, rags... - the best is a sponge, you can trust me.

By the way, just recently I specifically replaced all my prefilters with larger ones (see the picture on the left). And I’m very pleased) And these “huge” sponges in the aquarium don’t bother me at all) And the fish like them too)

For comparison: it was 50 x 100, now it is 70 x 140 mm. Truly “size matters”! - I’m getting the hang of it. I recommend installing a prefilter to anyone who is too lazy to wash the filter monthly.

For those who have a single internal “pump with sponge” type filter in their jar (for example, Aquael Fan), it will be difficult to install a prefilter, but there are at least 3 “development paths”: 1) replace the “original” filter sponge with a larger one ( the larger the size, the better); 2) put another similar filter in the aquarium and wash the sponges one by one every other week; 3) improve the existing filter (see article in the library) and install a prefilter (in this case, it is a foam rubber “wrapper” of a plastic bottle over the holes).

And, of course, you can buy a more “advanced” external filter (canister or waterfall) and equip it with a prefilter))

All in your hands! Good luck to you, fellow water teapots, inspiration and creative insights!

The best external filters for an aquarium

Tetra EX Plus

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three modifications: Tetra EX 600 Plus (60-120 liters), Tetra EX 800 Plus (100-300 liters), Tetra EX 1200 Plus (250-500 liters).

Tetra EX 600 Plus can be used in aquariums starting from 60 liters, but not exceeding 120 liters. The filter has five different media (water passes through ceramic rings, bio-balls, traditional sponge, carbon media and fiber pad, which remove various dirt particles and provide biological, mechanical and chemical filtration). Filter elements are changed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations once every 6-12 months. You can purchase this filter for a price ranging from 5,000 to 7,000 thousand rubles.

SERAfil BIOACTIVE

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three modifications: SERAfil BIOACTIVE 130 (up to 130 liters), SERAfil BIOACTIVE 250 (up to 250 liters), SERAfil BIOACTIVE 400 (up to 400 liters).

The cost of the external filter SERAfil BIOACTIVE 130 ranges from 4,000 to 7,000 thousand rubles.

EHEIM IS THE PERMANENT LEADER IN THE MARKET OF EXTERNAL FILTERS

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three modifications: EHEIM Ecco Pro 130 (60-130 liters), EHEIM Ecco Pro 200 (100-200 liters), EHEIM Ecco Pro 300 (160-300 liters).

EHEIM filters are rightfully considered among aquarists to be the best external filters. These filters combine low energy consumption with high performance, provide excellent mechanical and biological filtration, and operate very quietly. The EHEIM Ecco Pro 130 filter costs around 6,000 - 8,000 thousand rubles.

A very good review of the EHEIM brand external aquarium filter can be found on the website at https://zoo-forum.com.ua/post1266.html.

AQUAEL IS GRADUALLY COMING TO THE LEADERS OF EXTERNAL FILTERS

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three tested and proven modifications: MINIKANI 80 (up to 80 liters), MINIKANI 120 (80-120 liters), MIDIKANI 800 (120-250 liters), MULTIKANI (20-320 liters).

The MINIKANI 80 filter has a compact high-performance remote pump, is an alternative to internal filters for small-volume aquariums, and is simple and easy to install and maintain. The cost of MINIKANI 80 on the Russian market is about 4000 - 5000 thousand rubles.

JBL IS A VERY POPULAR FILTER BRAND IN THE RUSSIAN MARKET

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three modifications: JBL CristalProfi e401 greenline (40-120 liters), JBL CristalProfi e701 greenline (60-200 liters), JBL CristalProfi e901 greenline (90-300 liters).

External filters from JBL are characterized by very quiet operation with a pump capacity of 450 liters per hour. A distinctive feature of JBL filters is the patented pre-filter: high-performance biofilter with a volume of 4.6 liters, shut-off valve, hose connection with the ability to rotate 360°, easily replaceable filter materials.

The cost of the JBL CristalProfi e401 greenline model ranges from 6,000 to 7,000 Russian rubles.

SICCE - ITALIAN MANUFACTURER OF EXTERNAL FILTERS

The filter from this manufacturer exists in three modifications: Sicce SPACE EKO+ 100 (up to 100 liters), Sicce SPACE EKO+ 200 (up to 200 liters), Sicce SPACE EKO+ 300 (up to 300 liters).

The cost of Sicce SPACE EKO+ 100 fluctuates around 4000 - 4500 Russian rubles.

The line of filters from the Italian manufacturer SICCE, which has proven itself well in Europe, also includes models of external filters of the WHALE series. This series differs from the SPACE EKO+ series in higher cost, quieter operation of the filter and more durable glossy material for the filter canister.

Rating of TOP 10 aquarium filters

I analyzed some characteristics of devices for filtering water in an aquarium. The ranking of the best models is as follows:

AQUAEL Fan 1 Plus

AQUAEL Fan 1 Plus

This filter is extremely easy to maintain. It is designed for an aquarium with a volume of 60-100 liters. The device is attached with suction cups to the aquarium walls and to a plastic holder. For maximum performance, it is important that the device clings 3-4 cm below the water level.

Thanks to the deflector, water dispersion is ensured. Flow regulation is provided, it allows you to control the strength of the current. The thoughtful design of the filter ensures even distribution of contaminants throughout the sponge.

• quiet operation;
• reliable;
• flow is regulated.

• none.

Excellent filter, has been working flawlessly for three years. I was surprised how quiet he was. Cleans perfectly, the water is clean for a long time.

When using this filter, it is important to clean the rotor and rotor chamber once a month.

AQUAEL Fan mini plus

AQUAEL Fan mini plus

The design of the device is understandable even to inexperienced aquarists. It provides high-quality filtration and aeration in aquariums with a volume of 30-60 liters. Characterized by low electricity consumption.

Thanks to the right sponge, the filter does not need frequent cleaning. Foam rubber with large pores reliably holds dirt, food residues, and waste products of aquatic life. The sponge quickly multiplies microflora, which is responsible for eliminating organic and nitrogen pollution.

Thanks to the plastic pre-filter, larger particles are retained and the performance of the device is maintained. Maximum efficiency of the device is ensured by installing it 3-4 cm below the water level. The lower the filter is installed, the worse the aeration is. A flow power regulator is installed on the top of the housing. With its help you can change the strength of the current.

• excellent aeration;
• quiet operation;
• compact;
• easy and quick to clean.

• not found.

Cool, well-thought-out filter. It is important that the water flow and air supply force are regulated. The design is such that when you remove the filter from the aquarium to clean it, no water will flow out of it. It works almost silently and is not annoying.

Tetra EX 800 plus

Tetra EX 800 plus

The use of such an external filter is intended for aquariums with a volume of 100-300 liters. Maximum productivity reaches 800 l/h. The device reliably removes excess organic matter formed in the aquarium. The device supports biological, mechanical and chemical cleaning.

In addition, the filter creates a current that mixes the water layers, saturating them with oxygen. The housing is equipped with several filtration compartments. Each filter element is equipped with handles for easy cleaning. Due to its thoughtful design, the system is completely sealed. It is important that the device does not waste unnecessary electricity. In addition, it is distinguished by quiet operation.

• quiet;
• powerful;
• excellent filtration;
• ease of maintenance.

• none.

I was pleased with this filter. It works very quietly, you can't hear it at all. It drives water quickly, I even reduced the flow a little. A rich set of equipment is presented. The hoses are strong and rigid, so they do not bend or break. The case itself is beautiful, powerful, reliable, I hope it will last a long time.

Tetra EX 600 plus

Tetra EX 600 plus

An external filter made in Germany ensures clean water for keeping aquarium fish. The device is suitable for freshwater and marine aquariums with a volume of no more than 120 liters. This is a very powerful and yet quiet device.

For filtration, five filter elements are used, which carry out biological, chemical and mechanical purification. Thanks to the handles on each of the structural elements, they are easily removed and washed. The hose can be adjusted to the size of any aquarium. It is possible to regulate the water flow.

• quiet;
• excellent power;
• good filtration;
• ease of maintenance.

• not found.

The aquarium is located in the bedroom and, at the same time, does not interfere with sleep, since the filter operates silently. For me this was an important purchasing criterion. Quite good power for a 100 liter aquarium. Perfectly filters and saturates water with oxygen. Very easy to maintain, all elements can be easily removed.

Regular maintenance and cleaning of the filter allows you to keep the aquarium clean longer.

AQUAEL Fan 2 plus

AQUAEL Fan 2 plus

The internal filter is made of plastic. Its maximum productivity reaches 450 l/hour. Perfect for freshwater aquariums with a volume of 100-150 liters. Thanks to the filter sponge, the device does not need regular cleaning. Due to the plastic prefilter, large particles are retained, which significantly extends the service life of the filter apparatus.

The rotor chamber is sealed, it guarantees silent operation. In addition, despite the high performance of the filter, it consumes minimal electricity. The device is extremely easy to install. It is attached either to suction cups to the walls or to a plastic hook. It is possible for both.

• quiet;
• adjusting the power of water flow and air supply;
• inexpensive;
• convenient to disassemble;
• looks aesthetically pleasing in an aquarium.

• not detected.

I was pleased with the silence of the device. The device itself is inexpensive and suitable for my large aquarium. You can regulate the flow and aeration. Overall, excellent value for money.

AQUAEL Turbo 1000

AQUAEL Turbo 1000

The Polish-made filter is designed for cleaning and aerating aquarium water. Despite the increased pump power, the device does not consume a large amount of energy. The device effectively saturates water with oxygen even at great depths.

The filter is equipped with a container for placing any filtrate into it. The kit includes a ceramic filler BIOCERAMAX 600, which effectively removes ammonium and nitrates. The turbo filter is equipped with a smooth water flow control system.

• presence of aeration;
• silent operation;
• powerful.

• none.

Excellent filter, copes with its functions with a bang. I'm glad there is aeration. The power of the device is quite enough for my 150-liter aquarium. Overall, this is the best internal filter I have used.

AQUAEL Fan Mikro Plus

AQUAEL Fan Mikro Plus

The filter is easy to maintain and install. Designed for aquariums up to 30 liters. The device is mounted using suction cups to the walls or to an L-shaped plastic hook. Using a deflector you can change the flow of water.

Due to the sealed rotor chamber, silent operation is ensured. The device does not consume a lot of electricity. This filter model is capable of operating even at low water levels. Therefore, it is effective even in the smallest aquariums.

• reliable manufacturer;
• ease of maintenance;
• excellent aeration.

I've been using this filter for about six months now. Overall I am satisfied with its operation; it has an aeration function. Easy to regulate air flow. It works silently, is easy to disassemble for cleaning, and can be assembled too.

It is not recommended to wash the sponge with tap water, since it harbors nitrifying bacteria responsible for biological filtration. Tap water will kill this beneficial microflora.

BARBUS WP-300F

BARBUS WP-300F

The maximum productivity of the internal filter reaches 200 l/hour. The compact device is suitable for aquariums up to 20 liters. It is made of green plastic. The protective glass is transparent.

Installation of the device is as simple as possible. It is held on by suction cups. The device provides excellent filtration and aeration of aquarium water. Suitable for freshwater and marine aquariums. Mechanical filtration is carried out using a sponge. The “water flute” function contributes to the uniform distribution of water flow.

• inexpensive;
• simple design;
• reliable;
• compact.

• none.

For such little money this is just a great filter. It is quite compact, suitable for a small aquarium. In general, it does a good job of cleaning.

Tetra EX 1200 plus

Tetra EX 1200 plus

The external filter has a capacity of up to 1300 l/hour. Suitable for aquariums up to 500 liters. Cleaning is carried out thanks to five filter elements, resulting in biological, chemical and mechanical cleaning.

Each element of the device is equipped with handles to make them easy to remove and wash. The hose can be adjusted to suit any size of aquarium.

• silent;
• powerful;
• ease of assembly;
• high quality filter.

• none.

Convenient, clear instructions, everything is clear how to assemble and disassemble the device. I'm shocked at how quiet it is. I have a 200-liter aquarium, and the filter power is quite enough for it. The device does not leak, everything is fine, I recommend it.

AQUAEL PAT mini

AQUAEL PAT mini

The compact internal filter is designed for aquariums up to 120 liters. Mechanical cleaning is ensured thanks to a sponge. High performance is ensured, while energy consumption is minimal.

The filter sponge catches the smallest particles and contaminants. In addition, nitrifying bacteria multiply well on it, which suppress pathogenic microflora. The filter is attached using suction cups to the walls and a plastic hook.

• low power consumption;
• inexpensive;
• quiet operation;
• compact.

• not detected.

I have a 120 liter aquarium and it filters perfectly. There is no noise, so you can even install it in the bedroom. It is very economical, only 4 W. It has a compact size and does not attract much attention in the aquarium.

Top 3 best external filters

Hagen Fluval 306 (“Hagen Fluval 306”)

Country of origin: Italy-Canada.

Price: 9960-9900 rubles (excluding delivery).

External canister filter of combined type. Suitable for both freshwater and marine aquariums. Filtration is three-stage and includes mechanical, chemical and biological types of purification. Complete set + set of spare parts and hoses.

Advantages:

• Easy installation and quick assembly;
• Easy start;
• Optimal power (1150 liters per hour);
• Energy consumption is 15% lower than predecessor models;
• Quiet operation;
• Easy to use and clean;
• Pleasant aesthetic design;
• Improved hose release and filter disconnect system.

Flaws:

• The design has three containers that need to be cleaned regularly;
• Large height (43 cm);
• High price.

JBL Cristal Profi E1902 (JBL Crystal Profi-E 1901)

Country of origin: Germany.

Price: 11990-16390 rubles (excluding delivery).

External filter of combined type. It has a pre-filter that absorbs the largest particles of debris, and a 7.6-liter biological filler that processes solid organic matter (protein and nitrogenous substances). The set includes a complete set + spare tubes and hoses, a protective grille, a replaceable sponge and a bio-filler.

Advantages:

• Presence of pre-filter;
• Capacity 900 liters per hour (working speed - three aquarium volumes per hour);
• Easy change of cleaning layers;
• Flexible hoses that can rotate 360 ​​degrees (excluding kinks);
• Strong suction cups;
• High performance with low power consumption - 11 W;
• Wide range of equipment;
• Quiet operation.

Flaws:

• There is no filtration of pieces of algae and fish feces;
• Regular change of sponge and bio-filler is required;
• High price.

EHEIM 2275 professional 4+ (Egame 2285 Professional 4+)

Country of origin: Germany.

Price: 13,000-19,500 rubles (excluding delivery).

Powerful external filter of combined type with built-in safety adapter. Maximum safe for aquarium inhabitants.

Water is effectively purified from all impurities of any consistency, remaining in the modules and being decomposed by specific bacteria. The filter has an 'Xtender' button, which redirects the internal flow of water into the device in case of possible clogging.

Advantages:

• Power – 1250 liters per hour (more than 4 aquarium volumes per hour);
• Possible deferment of cleaning without deteriorating the quality of the environment;
• There is no priming (airing);
• High performance;
• Protection of injectors from contamination;
• Regulation of the output water flow in direction;
• Quiet operation;
• Low power consumption - 16 W.

Flaws

• The need to regularly change filter media;
• Only Egame brand accessories and fillers are suitable for the filter.

Which internal filter is better?

Any model installed inside an aquarium is a pump that moves water, purifying it.

Based on the type of structure, the following types of these devices are distinguished:

Pump with sponge attachment

Its work is that the pump creates the movement of liquid, and the sponge absorbs the secretions of the inhabitants and other contaminants. A pump with a sponge attachment purifies water mechanically. But it may also have a biological cleaning method.

This type is universal. It is suitable for both large capacitive and small tanks;

Filter "Glass"

It has a similar principle of operation, but its difference is that it has a compartment for a sponge. For this type, you can use different filter media. In addition to the sponge, you can put ceramics, zeolite, peat, and aquarium charcoal. This will allow you to create mixed water purification. When choosing, it is recommended to give preference not to one, but to two or three glasses.

The disadvantages of "Glass" include its large dimensions.

Inner backpack

It contains filler along with a heater. The internal backpack creates a waterfall stream that saturates the aquatic environment with oxygen. Characterized by large dimensions.

This type is suitable for fish that live in stagnant water.

Airlift filter

Its functions are to move air under water. The purifier draws in water and purifies it. Airlifts perform a cleaning and aerating function for the tank. But at the same time they have a high noise level.

They are suitable for spawning aquariums and tanks with calm currents.

When choosing an internal filter, you need to focus on the volume and purpose of your aquarium, and also take into account the location where it is located. If in the bedroom, then you should give preference to a device with silent operation.

Prefilter What is it and is it needed at all?

In the vast majority of cases, the suction tube of the external filter does not have a sponge on it. To prevent the suction of fish fry and large particles of dirt, manufacturers use various mechanisms such as a check valve (for example, in my external device, the manufacturer uses a ball, which 1) narrows the opening for water intake and 2) blocks the flow of water in the absence of suction towards the filter basket).

Whether to put a sponge on the suction tube or not is up to everyone to decide for themselves. This sponge on the inlet hose is called a prefilter. When using a prefilter, two problems are solved: 1) the fry is prevented from getting inside the outer; 2) water entering the filter undergoes additional mechanical cleaning.

Why is cleaning necessary?

The aquatic environment in a home pond always needs to be filtered. This is an axiom that does not require proof. If in nature running water is filtered naturally, then the stationary aquarium environment must be cleaned forcibly.

The normal existence of ornamental fish and aquarium plants depends on this. Ideally, an aquarium cleaner should:

• be small in size;
• have high reliability, ease of maintenance;
• and the efficiency of its operation must correspond to the volume of water being purified.

Each such device works on the same principle: water intake - purification - water release.

The best mounted and bottom filters

Sometimes the only solution for small containers is mounted or bottom filters. An attachment (sometimes called a “backpack”) is attached to the wall of the tank, lowering the intake tube into the water, and the filtered water flows back into the aquarium as a waterfall.

For nano-aquariums with a capacity of up to 10 liters, a backpack is an ideal option. The unusual feature of the bottom unit is the prefabricated structure of the false bottom, under which water is pumped. Rising upward under pressure and carrying debris with it, it is sucked into the external or internal filter by the water intake.

Eheim Undergravel 3540

4.9

Editorial: Geophagus brasiliensis

★★★★★ editorial assessment

94% of buyers recommend this product

See review

An unusual and easy-to-use bottom filter will allow you to forget about cleaning the soil forever and will ensure constant water movement around the entire perimeter of the aquarium. Under the artificial bottom made of prefabricated plates there is a system of water supply tubes connected to a pump and mechanical filter. Clean water is pumped and rises from below through the soil poured onto the false bottom, taking with it dirt, which is sucked into the tube and passes through the filter.

Thus, the soil itself, populated with purifying bacteria, turns into a biofilter. The entire system is easy to assemble, and the plastic bottom plates are attached with spring clips and form any bottom shape.

Pros:

• stagnant zones do not form at the bottom;
• plants grow well;
• the bottom plates are very strong;
• all necessary spare parts are supplied included;
• lifting price.

Minuses:

The standard bottom size is 80x35 cm, additional plates can be purchased separately.

The filter is suitable for use in both fresh and sea water. The manufacturer does not recommend keeping a large number of large bottom-dwelling fish in an aquarium with such a system. During quarantine treatment, the purification system should be turned off.

Aqua Nova NF-300

4.8

★★★★★ editorial assessment

88% of buyers recommend this product

See review

A very efficient mounted cascade filter from a Polish manufacturer processes up to 300 l/hour with minimal energy consumption (3 W). The device maintains an ideal biobalance in the aquarium using mechanical and chemical cleaning.

The first stage of filtration is a sponge, the second is a synthetic pad impregnated with activated carbon. The intake tube is protected by a thick grille to prevent small fish from entering the apparatus. In addition to purification, the device provides oxygen saturation of water.

Pros:

• does not make noise;
• easy installation, cleaning and maintenance;
• does not take up space in the aquarium;
• works reliably;
• stylish look.

Minuses:

an artificial waterfall contributes to the weathering of CO2.

An indispensable unit for an aquarium up to 50 liters. Ergonomic and attractive appearance make the filter not only an indispensable assistant, but also a beautiful interior decoration.

Types of filter materials

Depending on the operating principle, there are three types of filtration: mechanical, chemical, biological.

Mechanical cleaning is aimed at removing plant particles, fish waste, and food residues. This process is mandatory for any aquarium and must occur around the clock. Cleaning substrates must be flushed regularly to avoid clogging and reduced productivity of the material.

Chemical cleaning is used to remove toxins, medications, and heavy metals from the environment that enter the aquarium with drinking water or medications and are harmful to both fish and plants. Chemical filtration is carried out using ceramic aquarium rings, which, due to their composition, carry out a chemical reaction by absorbing phosphates.

A biological filter for an aquarium is installed in a specially designated sector inhabited by colonies of useful microelements. They feed on a variety of biological debris; the dirtier the water, the better it is filtered. The specificity of the section is its spongy structure, due to which the area of ​​contact with water increases.

How to install and run?

Each manufacturer may have its own installation nuances, but the general algorithm is as follows:

1. Prepare a soft stand and a couple of rags in case of leakage.
2. Carefully check the contents of the purchased box: it should contain internal sponges, the device itself, fillers, and plastic water outlets.
3. Follow the manufacturer's instructions when assembling the filter. The taps on the lid are the last to open. The filler is correctly placed as follows: bioballs or ceramics on the bottom, sponges on them, then padding polyester, the last top layer is peat or coal.
4. Prepare parts for intake and release of liquid: a long curved pipe takes in water, a short curved pipe takes out water, it is installed at the other end of the aquarium. Don't forget to calculate the length of the hoses in advance so that they are enough.
5. When starting to launch the structure, fill the filter with aquarium water by gravity (to do this, connect the intake hose with a threaded clamp). Water will flow as soon as you open the tap. Make sure that liquid does not leak out of the second hole. As soon as the device is completely filled, close the inlet hose.
6. Connect the outlet hose to the filter, close it, then pour water into the free end and finally connect it to the plastic outlet.
7. Last step: open both taps on the filter and plug the structure into an outlet.

ATTENTION! If everything is done correctly, you will see how the liquid begins to mix. Sometimes a problem arises - the water does not flow

The problem is an air lock that has formed in the filter tubes. Turn it on and off several times in a row. If this does not help, pour out the water and refill the hoses.

Here is an external filter ATMAN DF 1000

Aquarium phytofilter. Beautiful and useful.

phytofilter diagram

A phytofilter is a special design designed for biological filtration of aquarium water. The filtration of substances harmful to fish in the phytofilter is carried out using the roots of moisture-loving plants.

In essence, a phytofilter is a type of external filter, but the main advantage of using a phytofilter is its environmental friendliness. Purification of water from harmful impurities is carried out due to the natural ability of plants to use nitrates, nitrites, and phosphates for growth, which are successfully supplied to the water due to the vital activity of fish.

Most often, the phytofilter is used to keep fish that are poorly compatible with aquarium plants, for example, cichlids, goldfish, discus, etc. The phytofilter is designed in such a way that the roots of the plants are located in the filter element and are washed by the aquarium water, while choosing from it substances harmful to fish. The purified water is sent back to the aquarium. As a rule, a phytofilter is placed above the aquarium, significantly decorating the interior. In this way, it is possible to separate the habitat of plants and fish, thereby creating different living conditions and extraordinary design solutions.

For phytofilters, special plants are selected whose root systems tolerate flooding.

Read more about the design of phytofilters, their advantages and disadvantages - forum thread.

Why do you need a filter in an aquarium?

A filter is an essential element of an aquarium, without which the life of fish and other living creatures living in it is impossible.
Only a large number of plants in the aquarium can replace the filter, but creating such an environment is not always possible, since with abundant vegetation in a small space, the fish will live cramped and uncomfortable. Aquarium filters consist of several parts:

· pump pumping water;

· air tubes;

· cartridge with filter.

The main purpose of a filter in an aquarium is mechanical and chemical purification of water from various contaminants, turbidity and fish waste products.

Hanging aquarium filters

- this is a kind of compromise between the aquarist’s desire to install filtration and the physical impossibility of cramming anything into the mini-aquarium. Such filters are called “backpacks” or “waterfalls”. This filter is best suited for small aquariums, when in a volume of 7-10 liters any internal filter will be superfluous. They are attached to the outer wall of the aquarium, the intake tube is lowered into the aquarium, and the outlet creates a waterfall.

Actually, the most typical filter is a backpack.

But they should not be confused with internal backpacks, such as Tetra EasyCrystal.

So, summing up the above, we can recommend: - for small aquariums up to 20 liters - mounted backpack filters. — for aquariums up to 100 liters — internal filters. — For large aquariums with a volume of over 150 liters, external aquarium filters are the best choice.

Concluding this article, I would like to note that there are other less common methods and mechanisms for filtering aquarium water, such as, for example, a filter located in the lid of the aquarium. Such methods of filter placement are less popular and also have a number of advantages and disadvantages. In addition, you can make a filter yourself, for example, from a plastic canister and bottle. There are plenty of homemade examples online and on the Youtube channel.

I would like to believe that this article helped you decide on the choice of the best aquarium filter. But remember that no filter, even the coolest one, can replace the banal weekly change of aquarium water.

CHANGING AQUARIUM WATER IS THE BEST FILTRATION!

How often to wash the filter

All filters are different, small ones need to be washed weekly, but large ones can work without problems for two months. The only correct way is the path of observation, to see how quickly your filter becomes clogged with dirt.

In general, for an internal filter the frequency is approximately once every two weeks, and for an external filter from two weeks for very dirty aquariums, to two months for cleaner ones.

Pay close attention to the flow of water from the filter; if it weakens, this is a signal that it is time to wash it.

Filter types

Today, pet stores sell a wide variety of filters. They differ in their mode of action, effectiveness, and, of course, cost. The most popular types are:

Airlift filter

Now it is practically not used due to its low efficiency. Essentially, it is a compressor with a Velcro sponge at the end. It only performs mechanical cleaning, but its disadvantage is that it is not capable of creating a powerful flow of water, and accordingly, the sponge absorbs little organic matter. Therefore, airlift can only be used in small aquariums with a small number of fish;

Internal filter

Quite a simple and popular type. It is characterized by low cost and average efficiency. Its design includes a working head (which contains the pump), suction cups and a sponge (it can be open or closed). There is also a hose and a plug, thanks to which the water is aerated simultaneously during filtration. This filter is suitable even for large aquariums, but most often they use external analogues. Its operation is based on a powerful pump. It creates a strong current, thanks to which organic matter enters the sponge and remains there. Some models can perform more than just mechanical cleaning. Various fillers can be added to them, which increases the efficiency of the device. Advantages: affordable price, useful. Disadvantages: low aesthetics (the body will clearly stand out in the aquarium and spoil the design), rapid clogging;

Editorial: The Splendor of the Amphiprion

External filter

The most expensive and efficient equipment. It is very popular among professional aquarists and those who spare no expense on their hobby. This device has a more complex design compared to the internal filter. It looks more massive because it contains more fillers. In the aquarium, only the ends of the tubes and, possibly, a pump (or two) will be visible. If desired, they can be easily hidden with plants. The pumps suck in water, which through a hose enters first into the lid and then into the canister itself, where various fillers are located (usually sponges, padding polyester, ceramic rings, zeolite, etc.). Having passed through them, the purified liquid returns back to the aquarium through another hose. Advantages of external filters: high efficiency (carries out mechanical, biological and chemical cleaning simultaneously), durability, practicality (cleaned once every few months, or even a year). Cons: high cost, low-quality models may leak, causing water to appear on the floor. Suitable for absolutely any aquarium, from small to large volume. Such equipment is especially necessary where there are no living plants and large fish live (for example, aquariums with goldfish, cichlids, etc.);

Phytofilter

It can also be classified as a popular type, but it is mainly used by professionals for the simple reason that such a filter cannot be purchased. It will have to be made alone. Its design and operating principle are as follows: the pump pumps water and lifts it through a hose into a long flower pot installed above the aquarium. It contains various fillers (for example, expanded clay), as well as ordinary indoor plants (like fern, monstera). Water flowing through the pot is purified by flower roots and porous fillers. It then flows back into the aquarium through a tube at the other end. Pros: high efficiency, low cost, aesthetics (a whole living corner will appear in the apartment). Cons: you have to make it yourself. Suitable for any aquarium, including those housing cichlids and goldfish.

What does it consist of and how does it work?

The design of the cleaning system depends on the volume of the aquarium. The larger it is, the more complex the system is. Bulky filters include auxiliary compartments for multi-level cleaning and devices for controlling water supply.

The purification system is an open or closed container with a volume of 2 to 7 (or more) liters, filled with fillers for biofilters. For ease of maintenance, the container is divided into chambers, which are filled with cleaning materials for various purposes. Sometimes the compartments are replaced by special mesh baskets located one above the other.

A simple biofilter consists of a tube that sprays water, a compressor that supplies air to the baking powder, filter material, seals, and adapters. Depending on the manufacturer, modular and one-piece installations may be available.

What filter pump do you recommend for a 150L aquarium?

Sergey

150 liters is not a small aquarium, it is better to install an external one! but if this is not possible, then you can take the internal one! The first requirement is that the throughput (liters per hour) exceeds the volume of your aquarium by at least 3 times! that is, you need at least 450 l/h! It’s not worth buying Polish ones in stores, there are fans standing there with a small sponge! It's better to take Aquael corner, JBL is also corner, but the best ones are Eheim! For ((*)) The water needs to be changed anyway! 25% per week! no matter what filters you use! The water evaporates, but the salts and other minerals remain! Water hardness increases! at this rate you will have a phenomenon called “old water” read on the net!

-Anna-

Go to a pet store and ask for a filter pump from a Polish manufacturer. There are many companies that produce pumps, but Polish ones, in my opinion and experience, last a VERY long time. We've had this one for 4 years now. Only the sponge will have to be changed every year. Good luck!

M@RYA

which is for 300 liters, it filters the water better and the water is clean for much longer. I have a 200 liter aquarium, so the filter is 400. For 2 years I haven’t changed the water, I just rinse the filter sponge and add water as needed

Konstantin Shaly

It is best to use Eheim, but the price of an internal pump is almost equal to the price of an external pump with the same performance. Fluval is also good, and most importantly much cheaper, but still not a cheap pleasure - but worth it. Productivity should be from 500 to 700 liters per hour. You can also install the NEW B-700 from the Chinese company RESUN, but it works silently and efficiently, but it is only a head, you need to buy an additional filter element. But the price is cheap, 250 rubles on Ptichka.

Internal filters: purpose, types, features

The simplest internal filter consists of a pump and a sponge.
It is used to clean the aquarium from large particles of debris and to mix the water, helping to saturate it with the oxygen necessary for the life of fish. Many models of internal filters are equipped with built-in aerators and water mixing speed regulators. The lower layers of water are constantly mixed with the upper ones. Stirring the water allows you to maintain the same temperature in all layers in the aquarium. Carbon dioxide is removed from the surface of the water faster. Simple models of internal filters can only be used for aquariums with a small number of hardy fish such as guppies. Other aquariums use internal filters with biofiltration.

Biofilters include devices in which water is passed through a substrate containing bacteria.

Such models do not affect the chemical processes occurring in the aquarium. They improve hygiene in it and, most importantly, prevent the appearance of ammonia, which causes the death of aquarium fish.

Operating principle

Most internal aquarium filters have a cylindrical body with slots on the surface. They are necessary to draw water into the device. Inside the housing there are several layers of filter material. Most often this is elastic polyurethane foam. Water is drawn into the device thanks to a pump that is attached to the body.

The water filling the aquarium passes under pressure through the filter material and, having gotten rid of foreign impurities, is returned to the aquarium. Microorganisms accumulate in the filter cells and perform biological purification of water. They decompose organic compounds into inorganic substances.

Types of internal aquarium filters

Devices are classified according to various criteria:

• productivity;
• water filtration capabilities;
• availability of additional options, etc.

According to the method of purifying water in an aquarium, internal filters are divided into:

• mechanical;
• chemical;
• biological;
• aeration;
• mixing water masses.

Devices can combine various functions. Filters are classified according to their main function.

Based on the type of design, devices are divided into filters:

• with airlift;
• with pump;

• with pomp;
• bottom

Advantages and disadvantages of internal filters for aquariums

The main advantage of the devices is their compactness. They are easy to maintain and do not require water supply through hoses and pipes. The big disadvantage of internal filters is that they can be used in aquariums with a volume of up to 200 liters. Air compressor filters have low efficiency.

Most often, internal filters are used in aquariums for mechanical water purification. Other types of filtration are carried out using external devices. When submerged in an aquarium, internal filters require masking. Inside the aquarium they are attached with suction cups to its back wall.

How to care

It is necessary to carefully monitor the operation of the equipment: filtration occurs without interruptions and leaks. As pollution occurs, the power decreases and the water pressure weakens. Filter sponges are periodically checked and replaced with new ones when worn out.

Cleaning

The filter device must be washed with water taken from the aquarium to prevent disturbance of the bacterial environment

The filler is washed with extreme care. Thorough rinsing is detrimental to beneficial bacteria

A complete flush is carried out every six months.

Sources

• https://expertology.ru/10-luchshikh-filtrov-dlya-akvariuma/
• https://rybkies.ru/akvarium/vneshnij-filtr-svoimi-rukami.html
• https://aquariumguide.ru/freshwater-aquarium/maintenance/akvariumnyj-filtr-svoimi-rukami.html
• https://filteru.ru/filtr-dlya-akvariuma-svoimi-rukam/

Aquarium care without filter and compressor

The main problem in caring for an aquarium without a filter and compressor was and remains the creation and maintenance of biological balance. It means the balance of beneficial and harmful microorganisms, maintaining an optimal chemical composition. The abundance of organic pollutants and low oxygen content in water leads to acidification, illness and death of fish and plants. Therefore, reservoirs without a gentleman’s set are usually created either by experts in the aquarium business, or by beginners who plan to have one or more small fish.

Selection of capacity. The decision to do without a bulky and expensive filter usually occurs to owners of small or even nano aquariums, which have become widespread in recent years. An aquarium for a child or workplace should be simple, silent, and meet high aesthetic requirements. Unfortunately, it is small aquariums that are most susceptible to changes in the composition and quality of water, and they are the most vulnerable. It is much easier for owners of large domestic ponds: they have the opportunity to create a relatively stable biotope that requires minimal maintenance. For beginners who plan to care for an aquarium without a compressor, we recommend purchasing a 50-liter aquarium - this is the golden mean!

Starting an aquarium. Starting an aquarium without a filter is no different from the usual procedure: the first step is to let the water settle for 2-3 days (to create living microflora that is vital for future guests). If desired, you can use special conditioners that instantly transform tap water into something suitable for an aquarium, or, if you are planning a marine aquarium, special complexes and salts.

Soil preparation. Aquarium soil purchased in a store, although it does not require boiling, does need to be thoroughly rinsed under running water. You can put it in the aquarium only when all the turbidity has been washed out. At first it will not be possible to achieve crystal purity, but after a day or two the water will become noticeably clearer. Then you can take care of green spaces.

Planting plants. Aquariums without a filter and a compressor require careful selection of algae that consume little oxygen but produce a lot of it. If you don’t have a list of such plants, it doesn’t matter, read on in this article, and we’ll tell you everything! Remember that you cannot populate the aquarium immediately after planting algae. Plants need to take root; this will take several weeks, usually no more than 30 days. Only after the specified period has passed can the fish be released into the pond. The health of the algae and its new growth is the clearest evidence that you are doing everything right. But the final test is ahead.

Selection and stocking of fish. Aquariums without equipment are not suitable for finicky fish species, but even being very limited in the choice of inhabitants, hobbyists manage to create colorful schools. It is strictly not recommended to overpopulate such reservoirs; the standard of living should be reduced by no less than 1.5 times in comparison with ordinary aquariums. Acting on the principle of being cramped, but not offensive, and trying to create as many hiding places as possible, some novice aquarists turn the holding container into a jar of sprats. Cichlids and angelfish will not take root in such conditions, or don’t look at them, or think about purchasing aquarium equipment. Be sure to inquire about the maintenance requirements of a particular species before purchasing it for an aquarium without a filter and aeration! We will provide a detailed list of undemanding fish below.

Choice of food and diet. In aquariums without equipment, it is not recommended to use food that quickly decomposes and spoils the water, for example, minced meat, which many feed aquatic inhabitants. Sometimes it is better to opt for factory-made feeds, for example, special weekend rations that do not create turbidity. But even in this case, you should not overfeed the fish, since accumulations of stale food immediately affect the quality of standing water. Make sure that the food does not sit too long, but is eaten without any residue within 5 minutes. Feeling sorry for fish with hungry eyes, underfeeding is better than overfeeding.

Regular care. Reservoirs without filtration and aeration more often than usual need partial water changes. Depending on the volume of the aquarium, it can be carried out even once a week (but not more often!) and reach 10-30% of the total volume. Don’t forget to siphon the soil more often; this simple procedure serves as an almost complete replacement for a mechanical filter. Be sure to monitor the health of algae; they are not only markers of water composition, but also your faithful assistants in cleaning it and saturating it with useful substances. If plants die, look for the root of the problem and plant new ones. A healthy small aquarium often looks like a herbal tank, so densely packed with aquatic plants it is.

Basic parameters for choosing a filter device

Filtration type

There are four main types of filters for purifying water in an aquarium:

1. Mechanical ones are the simplest, but no less effective devices. The principle of their operation is to filter water from large contaminants: feces of aquarium inhabitants, food residues, dead microorganisms, etc. Excellent for small aquariums with a small number of fish.
2. Chemical - involve water purification by passing water through various absorbents, one of the most popular is activated carbon.
3. Biological is the most important step in water purification; its essence is the cultivation of colonies of nitrifying bacteria, which multiply on special substrates and decompose toxic ammonia into nitrate, a much less dangerous substance.
4. Combined - devices aimed at purifying aquarium water in various ways: they can combine two types of filters, and some even all at once. Such filters should be chosen for large aquariums with a large number of inhabitants.

Performance

The power of an aquarium filter is its ability to pass a certain volume of water through it in a certain amount of time.
On the packages this is indicated as “100 l/h.”, “1000 l/h.” Not everyone wants to fill their head with calculations - so pay attention to the packaging. It usually states “for an aquarium up to 250 liters.” However, it is recommended to take a device with an order of magnitude higher productivity - for an aquarium with a volume of 200 liters it is better to take a filter with a capacity of up to 2000 l/h

Noise

No one wants to wake up in the middle of the night due to the “roar” of an aquarium filter. The only things that will really save you: buy only good and well-known brands and read reviews on the Internet. People love to share their experiences, so on forums they happily tell everything about their filter – and, first of all, everything about its “noisiness”.

Ease of maintenance

This is not the first, but certainly not the last characteristic that you should pay attention to when buying a good filter for a 200 liter aquarium. Look in the store to see how convenient it will be for you to assemble and disassemble the device yourself, because some filters are extremely easy to clean, while others are too difficult.

Look in the store to see how convenient it will be for you to assemble and disassemble the device yourself, because some filters are extremely easy to clean, while others are too difficult.

Therefore, before purchasing, just look at it: do you need all the components and whether you can easily clean the filter.

The procedure for placing fillers in an aquarium filter

High-quality cleaning of the aquarium is achieved using multi-level filtration. The sequence of installation depends on the type and combination of fillers.

There should always be a pre-filter at the base, which thoroughly cleans the water from large dirt and guarantees protection of the filter system from clogging with large debris. To do this, use a coarse-grained sponge, which should be located in the first compartment in the direction of flow or on the intake pipe.

The second element is a foam sponge, which serves for basic mechanical filtration.

Advice! It is recommended to use synthetic padding polyester as the third component to complete mechanical cleaning. It absorbs the smallest contaminants, so it quickly becomes clogged, which can interrupt the operation of the entire system. The service life depends on the quality of work of the previous components.

Coarse sponge

The fourth element is a material intended for chemical cleaning - activated carbon, zeolite for an aquarium.

Next comes the filler that performs biological filtration - bioballs, sintered glass, ceramic rings for the aquarium.

The sixth component is optional and is used to add additional properties to the water. The most commonly used material is peat. When water is passed through it, the acidity of the medium increases and the hardness index decreases.

It is not necessary to follow the same order of laying materials. Each aquarium owner uses what he considers most suitable for his case. By experimenting with different combinations, you can choose the ideal installation method for each aquarium.

New filter materials for aquariums

Aquarium companies and brands always try to surprise and delight us aquarists with their new products. Relatively recently, the Tetra company released its new product - Tetra BalanceBalls ProLine.

Tetra Balance Balls are balls consisting of a special polymer material that is an ideal food source for nitrifying bacteria that reduce nitrates. Thus, nitrifiers contained in water settle mainly on the surface of the Tetra Balance Balls filler and gradually decompose it. Find out more about Tetra BalanceBalls here.