Shrimpman - 10 most important points for beginners

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A shrimp tank is an aquarium containing exclusively freshwater aquarium shrimp. Recently, aquarists are increasingly acquiring such aquariums, giving preference to decapods rather than fish. Everything beginners need to know about keeping shrimp can be found in this article.

The shrimper has a lot of pros. First of all, these are small volume requirements, which means it will take up little space. Maintenance of an aquarium with shrimp is also minimal. Nowadays, natural aquariums with live plants are increasingly being created, imitating a corner of wildlife. It’s a pleasure to watch such imitations, and it’s easier to populate them, again, with shrimp.

Shrimp are crustaceans, representatives of the order of decapods. They live in fresh and salt waters around the world. The size of an adult individual is usually in the range of 2-30 cm. Many representatives of this order are used as food.
Currently, aquarium shrimp are one of the most popular inhabitants of freshwater aquariums all over the world, and let's talk about them

If you are a beginner who has decided to acquire such wonderful aquarium inhabitants as aquarium shrimp, you will probably be concerned about the same questions that concern all beginners:

how to choose an aquarium;
what volume should it be;
what equipment is needed;
which shrimp to choose
What is launching a shrimp tank?

And much more.

Freshwater aquarium shrimp are one of the smallest inhabitants of freshwater aquariums. Watching their behavior is no less interesting than watching fish. These creatures move all the time, looking for something, moving their paws, or, sometimes, begin to “fly” throughout the aquarium. They are very brave and curious: if something new appears in the aquarium (a stone, decoration), they will all come together to explore the unknown object.

Let's look at the most important points you need to know about the shrimp and its inhabitants.

First - Types of shrimp for the home aquarium

Freshwater aquarium shrimp are cute little creatures that are increasingly attracting modern aquatic hobbyists. The world of aquarium shrimp is quite diverse - decapods are found in a variety of colors and colors, but they all differ in their demanding conditions.

Neocaridins

The most common and unpretentious shrimp are the best option for beginners. The wild species and its color selection derivatives are more often found on sale. Of the color variations, the most common is Neocoridina Cherry . The following options also live in aquariums:

neocaridina white snowflake (Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis var. Whi);
yellow neocaridina or canary (Neocaridina heterpoda var. Yellow);
blue pearl;
orange sakura.

And many, many other varieties.

All neocaridine species can live in tap water, both soft and hard, with a very wide pH range.

The common neocaridina is almost colorless, however, it is the progenitor of all colored species, so it can bring a surprise. After some time in the aquarium, this species can turn into any of the possible color options: red, yellow, green or blue. It depends on the soil, lighting and nutrition of the shrimp.

The color saturation of neocaridines primarily depends on the color of the soil; the darker the soil, the brighter the color.

The maximum size of neocaridine shrimp is 2-3 cm, so you should not keep them with large fish, and even small fish will definitely encroach on the life of small creatures, so the aquarium must have shelters - plants, mosses, driftwood.

Breeding neocaridins is as simple as keeping them, that is, they are diluted in ordinary tap water and do not require any additional procedures.

It must be remembered that fish will happily snack on small shrimp, so they definitely need shelter.

All types of neocaridines interbreed with each other, so if the goal of keeping shrimp is to breed them, you need to keep each species separately.

Amano

Another type of unpretentious aquarium shrimp. Amano is a known tireless algae killer. However, this shrimp will not reproduce in ordinary water, since its eggs go through a larval stage, during which they must mature in salt water. A species similar in breeding to Amano is shrimp.

Pinocchio

Her young also go through the larval stage.

Macrobrachium

An unpretentious and largest species of shrimp that can live in very hard water.

Unlike the previous species considered, this is a predatory species of shrimp. Macrobrachium can not only fend for itself, but also attack some sleeping small fish or other type of shrimp.

Green shrimp babaulti

A more complex species in terms of keeping and breeding conditions. Babaulti also lives and breeds in tap water, but the percentage of spawning eggs and survival of the young is much lower. Babaulti shrimp do not interbreed with other shrimp species.

Red and black crystals

Crystals are an even more difficult type of shrimp to keep. There are also many expensive, rare and exclusive types of shrimp: tigers, bees, pandas and other species.

To keep the listed species, you need a very stable environment in the aquarium: water hardness, PH, temperature, content of phosphates, nitrates and nitrites and other macro and micro elements must remain at the same constant level. Sudden changes in these conditions can easily kill an entire population.

The percentage of eggs carried to term in these species is lower, as is the survival rate of the babies.

Bamboo filter feeder shrimp

A freshwater aquarium shrimp, also known as tree shrimp or banana shrimp. Interesting for its unusual way of eating.

Cardinal

It is still a rare species, but these shrimp are doomed to success: the body is the color of a dark rose with white specks covering the entire body.

In general, all decapod inhabitants of aquariums love stability, they are all interesting in their behavior, and extremely curious. These creatures deserve the attention of aquarists and are quite worthy of a separate aquarium.

Types of aquariums for keeping shrimp

A shrimp tank for beginners can be round or rectangular. If only crustaceans live in the reservoir, then you should not use high containers. Crustaceans live mainly on the bottom.

Beginning hobbyists can set up a nano aquarium. This is a square reservoir with a volume of 5 to 40 liters, which is most often used to decorate the interior. Such aquariums are already equipped with soil, decorations and all the devices necessary for keeping shrimp.

The cube is the most popular form of nano aquarium. After all, with a relatively small size, the cube holds a large volume of water.

You can also use an aquael aquarium (shown in the photo). Such containers are used not only by beginners, but also by experienced professionals. Due to the uniqueness of each model, such aquariums can successfully fit into any interior.

For crustaceans that are demanding in terms of care, it is worth purchasing a tank with a volume of at least 30-50 liters.

Shrimp do not require as much care as fish. But it’s not worth testing the endurance of krill. Expensive and demanding species do not tolerate moving to another container very well, even if the same composition of water is provided.

Keep a close eye on the population density in your shrimp tank!

Arranging a shrimp tank prevents overcrowding of the aquarium. Excessive numbers of inhabitants lead to illness and death.

Approximate quantity of some types of shrimp in an aquarium

Cherry - 1 individual per 0.5 liter;
Filter – 1 individual per 2 liters;
Macrobrachium - 1 individual per 3 liters.

Shrimp may jump out of the aquarium. To prevent this, it is worth covering the structure with glass and tightly sealing all possible openings. You can use a sponge for this.

Second - Shrimp Behavior

If you are not yet familiar with these small, multi-legged aquarium inhabitants and are just about to purchase them, or have just recently purchased aquarium shrimp, you will certainly have many questions about the behavior of these unusual creatures.

You may be frightened by their excessive activity, or, on the contrary, by their apathy, so it is worth reading this section to know when you need to worry about the behavior of shrimps, and when, on the contrary, to calm down.

A healthy aquarium shrimp is always active; it constantly moves from place to place, fingering something with its paws. Shrimp move mainly on the ground and plants, sometimes going swimming around the aquarium.

Group swims usually occur when females begin to “walk”, releasing pheromones into the water to attract males, and also after a water change - the so-called “rain effect”.

Sometimes you can see how all the shrimp swim together in the water column.

Over-activity of aquarium shrimp is often observed after a water change. When you add fresh water to the aquarium, the krill perceives this as “rain”, that is, an abundant supply of fresh fresh water.

In the first hours or even days after the change, you can observe a whole boom: all the shrimp rise into the water and begin to “fly” around the aquarium. This is normal behavior and there is nothing to worry about, apparently this is how these animals get a “high”.

When you really need to worry: If you have fish in your tank. The fact is that most fish will happily eat shrimp. Even if the fish are small, baby shrimp easily fall into the fish's mouth.

If there are a lot of hiding places in the aquarium, the shrimp can hide in them without any problems. But during the “rain”, both adults and children swim in the water column, and here the children are in danger of being eaten, because what kind of fish would refuse food that flies into its mouth on its own. And you won’t be able to resist this, unfortunately. That is why it is recommended to completely avoid the proximity of shrimp and fish. The only exceptions are algae eaters.

If a shrimp sits in place for a long time without moving or behaves strangely, there is a problem in the aquarium! This may be associated with some diseases, but most often it indicates “dirty” water in the aquarium. If there have been no water changes for a long time, or the aquarium is very overpopulated (even if only with shrimp or snails), then it is very likely that harmful organic impurities have appeared in the water, which are dangerous in themselves, and can also lead to a sharp change in the pH of the water, which also very dangerous.

Ammonium or ammonia - these substances should not be present in the aquarium at all, and their presence even in small quantities can lead to health problems for all inhabitants of the aquarium.
Nitrites - they should also not be there, or their amount should tend to zero. The maximum permissible level is 0.2 mg/liter (this is the norm for fish; shrimp may already have problems).
Nitrates - there should be a minimum acceptable amount (not higher than 80 - 100 mg/liter, but again this is the norm for aquarium fish).

If shrimp sit motionless in place for a long time, they are most likely poisoned, and measures must be taken immediately! Start with a one-time change of 25% - 30% of the water volume, and if necessary, it can be repeated in subsequent days.

Decapods are very curious; when they get into a new aquarium, they will not calm down until they fully explore it. Everyone knows the passion of shrimp for new objects: put a new pebble on the bottom, and after a while decapod researchers will gather on it.

Shrimp regularly molt, especially in a new aquarium or after water changes, which frightens the owners - the skin after molting is very reminiscent of a dead shrimp. Molting is a sign of normal functioning of the shrimp’s body, no need to worry. There is no need to remove the discarded skin - your pets will enjoy it with pleasure.

Still, aquarium shrimp are amazing inhabitants of the aquarium; their unusual behavior is often fascinating. That is why getting them is the right decision!

Third - Aquarium

How to choose an aquarium for shrimp?

The minimum volume of an aquarium for keeping shrimp is 5 liters; maximum - as much as your heart desires. Preference should be given to a wide and low aquarium, with a large bottom area - shrimp most often walk along the bottom rather than swim.

Now on sale there are aquariums fully equipped for creating a shrimp tank. For example, the companies Aquael (Aquael Shrimp Set) and Dennerle (Nano Cube), the so-called “cubes”. The fact is that the shape of these aquariums is almost a regular cube.

Sizes are 10, 20 and 30 liters. They are made of glass with increased transparency, with a glass lid. You can buy an aquarium separately or as a set: an aquarium, a lighting module, a filter, a water heater, a background, a mat and shrimp food. The set is, of course, more expensive than a regular aquarium, but it is very convenient to purchase everything at once in a set.

A cube is usually taller than it is wide. This was probably done for the free growth of plants.

In an aquarium with a small volume, up to 30 liters, it is better to keep simple types of shrimp - neocaridine, amano. For other species, it is better to choose a larger aquarium: in a container smaller than 30 liters it is difficult to achieve a stable balance, the indicators will change frequently, and jumps in the nitrogen content in the water negatively affect the health of the shrimp. But some amateur aquarists manage to create excellent conditions in 10 liters, and even crystals live there and enjoy life.

Also keep in mind that the population of neocaridins, and other types of shrimp, will constantly grow, and the biological load on the aquarium will also grow. If you are a beginner hobbyist, then do not take risks, buy an aquarium of at least 30 liters. For expensive and elite species of shrimp, various sources recommend aquariums of at least 100 liters.

Decorating a shrimp tank

So, you decided to get shrimp and for this you purchased an aquarium with a volume of 30 liters or more. This container size is optimal for both beginners who have decided to keep shrimp for the first time, and for experienced aquarists. The shrimp aquarium is complemented by an LED light placed above the aquarium to provide optimal lighting for the shrimp. For a 30-liter shrimp tank, 3 liters of soil are used. This will help create favorable conditions for the development and growth of plants.

Fourth - Equipment

The most optimal aquarium volume for beginner shrimp lovers is 30 liters - such an aquarium is easy to start, it is not too big and not too small, and it is inexpensive. Over time, you can choose a larger container if you want to grow mass colonies or rare species. Now start small to gain knowledge and experience.

After you purchase an aquarium, you need to purchase an aquarium filter. You can find filters at your local pet stores.

Filters in which the filter material is a sponge are well suited for shrimp tanks. Such filters are usually inexpensive and accessible, just what a beginning hobbyist needs. Sponge filters are safe for baby shrimp and easy to clean. Filters that are not protected by sponge material should not be used: shrimp may be drawn inside and die there.

You also need a lamp, a thermometer and a water heater. If you are going to plant an aquarium with live plants, then light is a must. In addition, the presence of living plants in a shrimp tank is very desirable; for shrimp they will become both home and food, and will speed up the start of the biological cycle.

Some aquariums are sold with lids with a built-in light, but you can choose your own aquarium light. It is advisable to choose lamps or LEDs with a spectrum of “sunlight” (sun glo) or with white light, since shrimp are colored best under such lighting, and plants with such light grow faster. For a shrimp tank with live plants, the daylight hours should be at least 7 hours.

Buy a small thermometer and a heater. If the temperature is too low or too high, shrimp stop reproducing and may die. You can find out what the optimal temperature for shrimp should be by reading the descriptions of the types of shrimp. Each species has its own requirements for water parameters (hardness, pH), temperature, so read about this in advance.

The next step after purchasing the necessary equipment is purchasing gravel. Since the presence of aquarium plants for a shrimp aquarium is highly desirable, the soil must be suitable for plants. If this is ordinary neutral gravel, then it should be of a fraction of 2-5 mm, no more. Or sand, at least 1 mm.

Of course, the best option for a shrimper is nutrient-rich soils, since they can lower the pH of the water, and this in turn will help the shrimp live happily ever after. Examples of nutrient soils: Fluval Shrimp, Manado, JBL ShrimpSoil, Amazonia and others.

Aquarium soil or substrate can be purchased at a regular pet store, but if not, you can always make a purchase at an online store.

Now the water cycle must be established in the aquarium - this is extremely important. The process may take 2-4 weeks or more (for a full cycle).

Before pouring water into the aquarium, it is recommended to use water conditioners, or let the water sit for a day. Settling does not completely remove all chlorine impurities, but during this time most of the gases from the water evaporate, the pH stabilizes, and the water warms up to room temperature.

Decorating the container

The space in which crustaceans live must have a sufficient number of living plants. An excellent option would be small-leaved and slow-growing varieties, in particular mosses. Often planted in shrimp tanks:

Indian fern;
cabomba;
Cladophora;
naiad, etc.

You should not use fast-growing and tall plants: they need regular pruning, weeding, frequent replanting, and with intensive cultivation of the underwater garden, the soil becomes agitated and plant juice is released into the water, which is poorly tolerated by crustacean inhabitants.

You can decorate the aquarium in any way you like

Sandstone stones equipped with many small holes and niches make good shelters and decorative elements. No less in demand for these purposes are driftwood, which has a beneficial effect on water , acidifying and softening it through the release of humates. The dried leaves of Indian almond, oak, and beech have a similar effect. In addition, experts recommend placing coconut shells and alder cones in aquariums.

If you start the shrimp tank correctly, equip it and fill it with the necessary components and items, you can enjoy breeding ornamental crustaceans. And simple recommendations will help create optimal living conditions for ten-legged pets.

Fifth - Starting a shrimp tank

Clean gravel is poured into a clean aquarium, washed with tap water (without any detergents or cleaning agents), and water is added. To prepare water, it is better to use a conditioner that purifies the water from chlorine, chloramine and heavy metal salts. Install the filter immediately and turn it on. The gravel may make the water cloudy, but within a couple of days it should become clear. Install the thermometer.
Within 24 hours the water will probably warm up to room temperature. After this, you can start planting plants. Plants with long stems are usually planted in the background. Rosettes in the middle part of the aquarium. Small foreground plants and mosses are placed closer to the front glass. Remember that shrimp are very fond of all types of aquarium mosses - they serve as both shelter and a source of food.
After another day, you can start populating the shrimp - this will start the cycle. The shrimp must first undergo acclimatization. The bag with shrimp is dipped into the water of the aquarium for several hours or simply left next to it. This is necessary so that the water temperature becomes the same. Also, water from the aquarium is gradually added to the shrimp bag. And only after several hours of acclimatization, new residents are released into free swimming.
A week after launch, the first water change is made - 10-20% of the total volume. Further changes are made regularly every week. At least once every two weeks, you must “vacuum” the soil using a siphon, otherwise debris will constantly accumulate at the bottom of the aquarium, but shrimp spend most of their time on the surface of the gravel.
After 2-4 weeks of the cycle, we do water tests: we check pH, nitrates, nitrites and ammonia. Water tests can be purchased at pet stores. For most types of shrimp, a pH in the range of 6.0-7.5 is normal. Nitrites and ammonia should be 0, or very close to zero. For more precise pH values required for your shrimp species, read the species descriptions.

For beginners, it is advisable to start with the simplest type of shrimp - neocaridine. The most popular neocaridine variety among beginners is red cherry. These shrimp are not demanding on water parameters (pH, hardness, temperature), are inexpensive and easy to buy. However, like any fish and shrimp, red cherry shrimp are sensitive to the content of ammonia and nitrites, so almost all beginners experience losses - the shrimp, unfortunately, may die.

Neighborhood

The compatibility of different types of shrimp with fish is a separate topic. Large individuals of the Amano and Macrobrachium species can theoretically get along with fish that do not exceed their size. If there are cichlids in the aquarium, which are predators, then they may consider shrimp to be an addition to their diet. But if it is macrobrachiums that live in the aquarium, then there is a high probability that the affected party will be fish.

Shrimp get along better with small fish: rasboras, zebrafish, and some tetras.

Shrimp that are not demanding to care for, such as cherries or tigers, can easily get along with the following types of fish:

rasboras;
neons;
viviparous;
algae eaters.

Despite the peaceful existence of fish and krill, the young are placed in a separate container. Even the most peaceful fish will consider small shrimp to be an addition to their diet.

If there are rare and expensive breeds of krill in the aquarium, then it is better not to put fish there.

For beginners, it is best to purchase crustaceans of a certain type. It's best to start with cherry or tiger. These species can be housed together because they do not interbreed and do not easily tolerate unfavorable conditions.

Unpleasant neighbors

Hydras

Sometimes, due to the use of live food, unwanted inhabitants settle in the aquarium. The biggest danger is the hydra. This creature contains dangerous poison at the tips of its tentacles. The hydra immobilizes the small inhabitants of the aquarium and absorbs them. Even a simple wound can lead to infection. The fight against hydra can be carried out in several ways. First of all, you can introduce gourami into the aquarium. These fish will eat all the hydras in a very short period of time.

Most often, hydras settle on the walls of unkempt aquariums.

You can darken the aquarium and leave lighting on only one side. After this, a small glass is placed near the wall of the aquarium. All hydras will very quickly move to the illuminated area. After this, the glass is removed from the aquarium and cleaned of pests.

Hydras do not tolerate hydrogen peroxide. For 10 liters only 2 teaspoons are given. Take a cup of water from a reservoir, dilute the drug in it, and pour it back. This method may slow down the growth of some plants.

It is also possible to use thin copper plates that are placed in water. Hydras are poisoned by substances that are released during the oxidation process. Dead parasites should be removed using a siphon or mesh. It is impossible to leave dead hydras in an artificial reservoir, otherwise toxins will enter the water as a result of decay processes. During such treatment, shrimp should be moved from the aquarium, because copper kills them too.

Planarians

These are worms that fall into a pond with soil that has not been treated, plants or food. These creatures attack eggs and young shrimp, and can also cause trouble for adult crustaceans.

Planaria are uninvited guests that are difficult to get rid of.

If cichlids or macropods live in the aquarium, then the issue of the pest disappears by itself, since these fish destroy it very quickly. But in shrimp farms it is very difficult to fight worms.

First of all, all surfaces of the decorations in the pond are processed. Planarians place their egg sacs in the most inaccessible places. These deposits should be carefully removed. The soil is subject to heat treatment (boiling). Despite the labor intensity, this method cannot provide a complete guarantee that the worm population will not renew.

You can organize special traps for worms. To do this, place pieces of squid or beef in cheesecloth, and place such bags at the bottom of the aquarium overnight. In the morning, collect pests along with gauze.

To get rid of worms, the following drugs are used: Flubenor, Fluvermal, Panacur. Per 100 liters of water give from 0.2 g to 0.4 g of substance per 100 liters. dead worms can be removed after a day.

Panacur is available in powder or paste form, both options are acceptable for getting rid of worms in an aquarium.

Sixth - Safe neighbors for aquarium shrimp

Breeders of freshwater aquarium shrimp often ask the same, general questions. For example: “What fish is safe to keep my shrimp with?” or “Will this aquarium fish eat my shrimp?” and “is it possible to keep aquarium shrimp and fish in the same aquarium?”

All these questions are very important. By placing shrimp with fish, you can arrange a wonderful feast for the fish with an exquisite dessert, and a real “end of the world” for the shrimp. There have been cases when happy new owners of shrimp released them into the aquarium and immediately watched as the new residents were swallowed by predatory fish. I think it’s unlikely that anyone would want to be in their place.

You should remember that even though your shrimp were purchased for a lot of money and you really like them, in the wild they are a source of natural nutrition. For many fish and other aquatic inhabitants, shrimp is a kind of “fast food” - a way to quickly have a snack, and for some, the main food.

If you put shrimp in an aquarium with predatory fish, you will probably get disastrous results for yourself, and the predators will get a festive dinner. Most aquarium fish eat processed artificial food, and if given the opportunity to eat live krill, they will definitely take it.

Aggressive fish species are the first enemies of aquarium shrimp

But there is another aspect that must be taken into account in connection with the topic of compatibility of shrimp and aquarium fish: the ability of shrimp to camouflage. In the wild, shrimp spend most of their lives hiding from predators. Their natural coloration, which mimics their surrounding environment, helps them evade predators.

When breeding aquarium shrimp, we almost completely deprive our pets of natural protection. Most shrimp are specially bred to produce bright, attractive colors. Saturated reds, yellows and blues, of course, are not found in the wild. By depriving shrimp of this natural protection, we thereby deprived them of their chances of survival with aquarium fish. With their bright colors they only attract predators.

This article is not to discourage you from engaging in aquarium shrimp; its purpose is to achieve your “enlightenment” and understanding of the situation. There is a reason why most species of aquarium shrimp are kept in separate tanks, and predators are one of them.

If you have an expensive type of shrimp, you don't want to constantly worry about whether it's going to get eaten? In addition, sensing danger, shrimp become cautious and constantly hide. As a result, the new owner has almost no chance to observe the beautiful views and interesting behavior of decapod pets.

There are very few species of aquarium fish with which you do not have to worry about the life of your arthropods at all. Almost all “algae eaters” are safe for shrimp, since they are herbivores and feed exclusively on algae. Any carnivorous fish carries a potential danger to shrimp.

If you are not sure, then use the following motto: everything that fits into the mouth of an aquarium fish can be eaten. But also any fish can chase a shrimp, attack it and bite it until it dies and is then eaten.

I once placed a betta with juvenile zebrafish in the same aquarium. The teenagers were large enough and could not (as it seemed to me) be eaten by the cockerel. As a result, the cockerel began to catch the young and simply bite off the fish piece by piece, the part that fit in his mouth, and ate the rest later.

Below is the approximate compatibility of aquarium shrimp with aquarium fish.

100% safe for shrimp

algae eaters

Possess potential danger

tetras;
guppy;
zebrafish;
catfish with “suction cups”;
Endler's guppies;
rasboras;
catfish corridors.

Absolutely incompatible and very dangerous

cichlids;
discus;
angelfish;
gourami.

Any other type of fish that is not mentioned may be dangerous.

Seventh - Feeding

If there are live plants in the shrimp tank, then the shrimp will always find something to eat.

For normal molting and the construction of a new shell, it is imperative to feed the shrimp with food containing chitin. These are bloodworms, brine shrimp, and cyclops. You can feed shrimp with this food 2 times a week. However, with such feeding, the water will become contaminated faster, so when changing the water, be sure to siphon the soil.

Decapods will happily eat carrots, pumpkin or zucchini, as well as oak or ketapang (Indian almond) leaves. You should not overfeed the shrimp - all the food should be eaten in less than an hour. Residues of food must be removed to prevent the water from spoiling.

There are also special foods for shrimp; they contain everything that decapods need. Such feeds do not pollute the water; from them, the shrimp gain their color better, become more active and mobile, and molt better. They are especially necessary if your water is very hard. Also, with such feeding, shrimp collect eggs faster and reproduce better, and young animals grow faster and survive in greater numbers.

Shrimp of expensive and rare varieties are often fed with special nutritious feed produced in Japan. Caridins, such as black and red crystals, are more likely to feast on them.

There is also a local favorite and very healthy delicacy for shrimp - young nettles. Pets are fed with the leaves of the young plant. They choose only those growing in ecologically clean places, young ones (April-May). The leaves are picked freshly at the tops.

Pour boiling water over the leaves for 10-15 minutes. This procedure will not only help get rid of unnecessary bacteria, but also soften the greens - it will be easier for the shrimp to eat them.

Nettle has long been known among people for its healing and nutritional properties, so you can safely please your pets. Remember, however, that this is not the main food, but only a nutritional supplement and treat, and only the leaves of the fresh plant are useful.

Feeding shrimp is also a very interesting process. When food is served, all the inhabitants flock to dinner; you can even watch fights for food.

Feed the shrimp once a day, or even every other day. Once a week there is always a fasting day - no food is served on this day.

And remember that overfeeding shrimp is one of the most common causes of their premature death.

Filling the aquarium

Water

Shrimp are even more demanding on water quality than aquarium fish. They quickly react to all changes and try to get out of the aquarium. They become very fussy, begin to rush along the walls, and try to jump out.

Optimal water parameters:

rigidity - increased is better;
- 7.5-8 (slightly alkaline), but 6.5-8.5 is also considered normal.

Very hard water can prevent reproduction; in soft water, due to a lack of calcium, the shell does not form correctly. Although this type of red crystals prefer soft water.

Shrimp can adapt even to conditions that are not entirely favorable to them. But they cannot adapt to fluctuations in chemical parameters. Stability is important to them.

Changing the settings may result in unexpected shedding. This is dangerous if the individual has not recovered after the planned shedding of the shell.

The most interesting aquarium shrimp:

Shrimp react poorly to the presence of chlorine, chloramine and its constituent ammonium in water. To get rid of these compounds, the water is allowed to settle for 2 to 7 days or dechlorinators are used. Peat filters or peat, which can be found in flower shops, will help you achieve optimal water parameters. For 10 l. add 2 tbsp. spoons of peat, leave for a day and drain.

Water changes should be regular and carried out once a week, replacing 1/3 of the total volume.

Priming

The substrate for filling the aquarium can be basalt or quartz gravel with a crumb diameter of 2-4 mm. There is a special soil for shrimp on sale. It is marked "Shrimp" (shrimp). This is a porous soil with the addition of crushed bricks. It contains trace elements and components that change the composition of water, in particular, reducing its hardness. Bacteria settle in the pores and process waste from the inhabitants.

Soil for shrimp

The layer of such filler should not be thicker than 1-2 cm. Experts recommend placing activated carbon under the soil, as it absorbs excess organic matter that gets inside.

Soils that are poured into herbal aquariums are suitable. But since they require frequent water changes at first, it is better not to stock shrimp during this period. You need to wait until the aquarium is fully started.

It is better to choose a dark colored soil. Visually, shrimp look brighter on a dark surface. The bottom is often covered with dry oak and almond leaves, and alder cones are added, which can regulate the acidity of the water.

Plants

The shrimp barn must be filled with vegetation. In an emergency situation, when there is a lack of oxygen, plants, especially floating ones, become a salvation. Shrimp cling to bushes and thus can stay near the surface and breathe, since they themselves cannot swim for a long time.

Mosses and slow-growing species with small leaves are best suited for this. Fast-growing species are undesirable. They require frequent pruning, weeding and replanting. And this leads to agitation of the soil, which the shrimp do not like, and a concentration of juice in the water that is harmful to them. The juice of Elodea and Limnophila is especially dangerous.

The following plants are considered suitable:

riccia;
cabomba;
Java moss;
naiad;
Cladophora;
hornwort.

For example, for a fifty-liter tank, 5 cabomba bushes are enough. It is planted in small pots to make it easier to clean both the plants and the aquarium. It is better to keep purchased plants in water before planting them in the aquarium. This will help get rid of insecticides that were used during cultivation to control pests.

After planting the plants, keep the water for another week. It may become cloudy, but then become transparent. Only after this can residents be moved in.

Eighth - Reproduction

For successful reproduction, most species of shrimp for a home aquarium require: water with the characteristics required for the species, stability, regular feeding with food containing chitin, and the presence of males and females. Under these conditions, even crystals multiply like cockroaches, and there will soon be so many neocaridins of any variety that a biological overload of the aquarium can occur.

Shrimp are ready for reproduction, usually reaching a size of 1 cm. Neocaridin, ready for mating, can be recognized by the bright yellow “saddle” - a spot on the back. These are eggs ready for fertilization. Fertilized shrimp eggs are incubated for about 30 days, and then offspring emerge from them and the young shrimp set off on their own.

Some species of shrimp, such as amano and pinocchio, require special breeding conditions; they will not produce offspring in a regular aquarium.

Ninth - Why do shrimp die in the aquarium?

You bought new shrimp and added them to your aquarium, and then a day, a week, or maybe even a few months later, you find a dead shrimp. And then another, and another... You, of course, will be worried, or even in a panic: what happened, why is this happening? There can be many reasons why shrimp die; there is even a list of diseases of aquarium shrimp. But still, the most common reason for their death is the quality of water and living conditions.

Why is this happening?

Shrimp are very sensitive to water composition, more sensitive than aquarium fish (most of them). To keep shrimp, clean water is very important, and for some very sensitive species it must be practically drinkable, for example, for black King Kong. But there may be several options for contamination.

Chlorine or chloramine

Both chlorine and chloramine are toxic to shrimp, and if you are using tap water for your shrimp change, you may want to consider chlorinating it. The fact is that in some regions chlorine is used for chlorination, and in others chloramine. If you settle tap water that has been disinfected with chlorine, chances are that most of the chlorine will dissipate within a few days.

Chloramine cannot be removed from water on its own; this requires special means - dechlorinators. In addition, chloramine can accumulate in the aquarium over time, and with each water change the amount will increase, which will one day lead to disaster.

Therefore, it is recommended to use dechlorinating conditioners to treat tap water before changing. In addition, some of the air conditioners will also rid the water of the possible presence of heavy metal salts. If you know that the water in your area is chlorinated with chloramine, then an air conditioner that neutralizes chlorine will not help you - you only need one that removes chloramine; read the instructions carefully.

Ammonia/nitrites

Aquarium shrimp are very sensitive to ammonia/ammonium and its breakdown product nitrites, and if there were elevated levels of this substance in the water, even for a short time, this can greatly affect the shrimp and lead to their death. In addition, shrimp spend most of their lives at the bottom of the aquarium, and this is where all the waste from your residents accumulates.

Low PH

If you pour very soft tap water into your aquarium, or add distilled or Osmosis purified remineralized water, it may happen that the pH drops too low. If it drops below o, you may see that the shrimp have become inactive, moving little or not moving at all.

If you have checked through tests and see that this is indeed the problem, you will need to raise the PH level. Some people do this with baking soda, but this is too dangerous - a sharp rise in pH can kill the shrimp! The easiest way to do this is with stones that increase the pH of the water, for example, shell rock or crushed coral - it raises the level gradually.

Binge eating

Feeding your shrimp multiple times a day large amounts of flakes or pellets can lead to overeating. Happy and healthy shrimp always come to the food you throw at them. If, during feeding, some or all of the shrimp stop coming to the food served, it means they have lost their appetite. If at the same time the shrimp sit still and do nothing, and perhaps lose their color and turn pale, you most likely have problems from overeating.

It is correct to feed the shrimp once a day in small portions, which will be eaten in about an hour. In addition, it is useful for them to arrange “fasting days” - one day a week without food.

How can you tell if a shrimp is sick?

Healthy shrimp are very mobile; they spend all their time searching for food, moving their paws, and moving from place to place.

A sick shrimp sits motionless in one place for a long time, several minutes or even hours (similar behavior can also be observed at water temperatures below 20 degrees Celsius, this must be taken into account).

The sick shrimp also swims not as usual, straight, but sideways, while falling down. The color of a sick shrimp may change, it may become white, and even milky in color, there may be a yellow tint.

How to save a shrimp?

A sick shrimp can be placed in a separate aquarium with clean, settled water or purified with conditioner. If the defeat was not fatal, there were cases when the animal was saved in this way.

What to do with a shrimp tank?

In an aquarium in which sick decapods were found, it is imperative to siphon the soil and do a water change of at least 1/3 of the volume. Rinse the filter in water drained from the aquarium (in no case under running water and especially hot water!). Add water to the aquarium that has been purified using water conditioner.

How can I prevent shrimp deaths in the future?

Review the conditions under which your shrimp are kept and the care of the aquarium in which they are kept. Have you started the aquarium correctly, does it have everything you need (soil, filter, lighting, live plants), do you regularly change the water and are you not overfeeding your animals?

Comparison of different soils in a shrimp tank

The choice of soil is one of the most important procedures when starting an aquarium for keeping freshwater shrimp. An unsuccessful selection of soil can greatly affect the living conditions of your pets and even cause the death of shrimp or their offspring, so you need to approach the choice of soil very responsibly.

Conventionally, the entire variety of soils can be divided into two large and heterogeneous groups:

neutral soils - which do not affect the water parameters in the aquarium in any way, do not contain nutrients and serve only to decorate the bottom;
special soils - the parameters of which are “adjusted” by the manufacturer for specific purposes. In our case, the last category will include soils suitable (and intended) for keeping freshwater aquarium shrimp.

Special soils.

It is better for novice aquarists to start an aquarium on branded soils designed specifically for shrimp - such a soil can “forgive” a novice aquarium shrimp lover many mistakes. It is better to work with combinations of various neutral materials and your own developments after gaining some experience. Today, there are no problems with the ability to purchase this or that soil - thanks to online stores, so the question, for the most part, is choosing the right soil. Listed below are the most popular soils for freshwater shrimp aquariums today.

It is worth noting that according to many criteria they are all similar to each other - for example, without exception, all soils designed for keeping shrimp stabilize the pH in the aquarium at a level that is comfortable for its inhabitants. However, the differences between different soils can be very large, so you need to select it carefully, based on an idea of what your shrimp tank will be like and what soil properties will be most important to you.

The most popular among Russian aquarists are the ADA Aqua Soil series soils: Amazonia, Amazonia II and New Amazonia, Affricania, Malaya. Technically, these substrates are not marketed as “shrimp substrates,” but in fact, many freshwater shrimp enthusiasts maintain aquariums with ADA substrates and are very happy with them.

Properties common to the entire series include the presence of organic compounds AquaSoil in these soils, which ensure good plant growth and are also eaten with pleasure by shrimp; the ability to reduce pH and KH - soils of the Aqua Soil series make water acidic and soft, similar to water in tropical rivers, which allows you to grow the most capricious plants on these soils; sufficient strength of the granules - they are not easy to destroy, they do not color the water.

The differences between these soils are also quite significant - for example, Amazonia is the most fertile soil in the line, but it is only suitable for soft water with a KH value of no more than 4 and has almost no effect on pH. Amazonia II soil is slightly less fertile, but can be used in harder water (KH > 4). Affrikania and Malaya are even less nutritious, but can significantly lower the pH.

Also, soils differ in color - Amazonia and all its varieties are black, Affricania has a reddish tint, Malaya is yellow. Several types of soil for aquariums with freshwater shrimp are offered by the Japanese brand Benibachi. Relatively new to Russia and the CIS countries, but actively used by Europeans, Benibachi Black Soil was developed specifically for lovers of crystal shrimp, but is also excellent for keeping many other freshwater shrimp: the soil maintains an excellent pH (approximately 6.2 - 6.5); According to aquarists, the parameters of this soil are close to those of ADA, but the aquarium matures faster. The same company offers two other soils for shrimp farmers: Crimson Bee Black Soil and Crimson Bee Black soil FULVIC, the only significant difference between them is that the latter contains peat. Both primers are black in color and designed specifically for shrimp farmers. The soil helps maintain a pH level of 6.0 with slight fluctuations (about 0.5 in both directions), is able to neutralize all harmful impurities, nitrates and phosphates, and allows you to start a new aquarium in just a few days. In addition, the soil contains microelements that improve or maintain the health of shrimp. Available in two versions: with a fraction of 2-3 mm or 4-5 mm.

Another Japanese soil worth noting is Shirakura Red Bee Sand, which was developed by Takayuki Shirakura and his colleague specifically for breeding bee shrimp and crystals. The substrate consists of several types of burnt soils and has the property of optimizing the water parameters in the aquarium for keeping shrimp. In addition, the soil is saturated with elements such as iron, potassium, magnesium and sulfur, which can only be extracted from it through the root system of plants. Thanks to this, the plants receive sufficient nutrition, and at the same time the growth of algae is suppressed, since nutrients do not enter the water - the water in the aquarium becomes more transparent. Shrimp on such soil, of course, feel just fine: the soil has a porous structure, on which colonies of microorganisms that are necessary for the development of newborn shrimp quickly form. In addition, the soil is absolutely safe for pets - it contains no impurities or artificial fertilizers.

Another good primer that has received a lot of positive reviews is Fluval Shrimp Stratum from Hagen (so far little represented in Russia, but in Ukraine it has already been recognized as one of the best primers of 2011), which is also positioned as a primer intended for aquariums with shrimp. The soil has a porous structure, which creates optimal conditions for the settlement of beneficial bacteria and, consequently, for the development of young shrimp. In addition, the soil does not contain any impurities or fertilizers, is absolutely safe and harmless, and also has the ability to gently reduce pH levels. In addition, according to the manufacturer, Fluval Shrimp Stratum helps purify water and significantly reduces the activity of various algae, which aquarium hobbyists have to fight quite often. The soil is suitable for keeping and breeding all, even the most capricious, types of shrimp and for planting any plants. The color of the soil is brown.

Aqua-Art Shrimp Sand is also a specially formulated substrate for shrimp, based on volcanic soil. It has a porous structure and is capable of stabilizing pH = 6.5 - close to ideal for keeping shrimp; in addition, it has the ability to absorb ammonia and other compounds harmful to shrimp, ensuring their health. Purifies water, removes cloudiness or color (for example, from wooden decorations and driftwood).

Based on volcanic soil, soils for the shrimp tank GEX Water Plant Aqua Soil and GEX Shrimp and Water Plant Aqua Soil Powder Type were also created. Soils are excellent for keeping shrimp in a planted aquarium: soil granules retain their shape for a long time, providing good aeration, which promotes the appearance and development of colonies of beneficial bacteria and protozoa necessary for shrimp. Purifies water and maintains the pH level necessary for the comfortable existence of shrimp. The packaging of the soil, however, cannot be called convenient - GEX products are sold in bags of 0.8 kg and large packages of 8 kg; in addition, the granules can be quite heterogeneous - from approximately 1 to 5 mm.

Finally, we can mention another very good soil - Oliver Knott NatureSoil. This soil is a completely ready-to-use plant substrate for aquarium plants, which is also perfect for keeping shrimp. The soil is able to maintain a stable pH, reduces water hardness, absorbs harmful impurities and purifies the water, and also promotes the rapid growth of beneficial microflora of the aquarium and the proper development of aquarium plants. According to the manufacturer, the soil is ideal for shrimp; reviews from amateurs confirm this.

Neutral soils.

Ordinary, neutral soils are also quite suitable for keeping freshwater shrimp, but setting up an aquarium with such soil is a more complex procedure than starting an aquarium on something like Amazonia. First of all, the difficulties are associated with the fact that you will have to adjust all the water parameters manually, and doing this without the proper experience can be quite difficult. On the other hand, neutral soils allow your imagination to unfold - the variety of their colors and textures is simply amazing. For an aquarium, especially for an aquarium with shrimp (which are quite delicate creatures and sensitive to the presence of various impurities in the water), it is better to use natural materials - basalt, quartz, granite and similar rocks are perfect as soil for a shrimp tank. You can buy them by weight in any store (however, in this case, do not forget to rinse the soil thoroughly!), or you can purchase packaged soil from well-known manufacturers. In the first case, you will be sure that you have saved a lot, in the second, you can count on good quality and environmental friendliness of the product.

When choosing soil, be sure to make sure that it is neutral - or, conversely, capable of influencing certain water parameters. So, in hard water, it is completely unacceptable to use soils rich in limestone - crushed shells, coral chips and similar materials - they will increase the already high hardness of the water and make it unacceptable for shrimp to live. On the contrary, if the water is too soft, it is possible and even necessary to add limestone rocks, because insufficient water hardness is fraught with problems with molting for shrimp. A large selection of neutral natural soils for the aquarium is offered by brands such as Hagen, China, Flamingo, Dennerle and others. If natural colors do not suit you, you can purchase colored primer - for example, Dennerle Nano, which is available in almost the full color spectrum and will allow you to create a bright landscape at the bottom of the aquarium.