Part 1
The plants that will be discussed in this article belong to different systematic groups, but look very similar: in the form of long vertical single or weakly branching stems, raising more or less uniform rosettes of leaves to the surface of the water. Traditionally, long-stemmed plants are usually used to decorate the background of an aquarium, as well as to create decorative groups on the sides and camouflage equipment (heaters, tubes, filters).
It is well known that for most aquarium plants the completely submerged (submersible) state is not absolutely comfortable, and many of them tend to leave the aquatic environment, “climb out” above the surface, if only to bring the flower into the air. But if rosette plants (for example, Echonodorus) grow long (sometimes up to a meter) peduncles for this purpose, then long-stemmed plants went their own way. And this path is skillfully used by aquarists in creating underwater plant compositions.
We have already talked about some types of long-stemmed plants in previous articles in the series. Hornworts, Naias and Elodea (Egeria and Lagarosiphon) are described here, and Alnernanthera - here. Today we will briefly look at other species of this endlessly diverse group.
But let's start with general principles
All plants of this type look much more advantageous when planted in a dense, uniform group, from 10 stems and more than one species. Most of them (such as rotals, ludwigias, pinnates) can be planted directly in the ground in bunches of several stems, while others definitely require planting each stem separately, at a distance of 1-2 cm from its neighbors. In this case, it is convenient to use long tweezers for planting. As a rule, plant stems do not immediately form roots in the ground that hold them submerged, therefore, in order to prevent planted plants from floating, it is necessary to fix the lower ends of the stems in the ground at an angle, not vertically, and also to bury 1-2 lower ends into the ground rosettes of leaves: they will hold the planted plant in the process of root formation, and then they will safely rot and be recycled in the soil.
You should not plant several types of long-stemmed plants in mixed groups; it is better to plant each type separately from the other. This not only looks more aesthetically pleasing, but also does not provoke different types of plants into “competitive struggle” and attempts to inhibit each other’s growth, which is often found in the plant world. In addition, the presence of small gaps between groups of background plants, through which the dark or black background of the aquarium is visible, creates an additional illusion of depth and volume in the composition, which makes the entire aquarium as a whole look more interesting.
Unlike most other aquarium plants, long-stemmed ones require regular ongoing care, which consists primarily of “trimming” overgrown specimens. And here the aquarist is faced with the main contradiction in the life of these plants. The fact is that these species achieve their greatest decorative effect when their tops almost touch the surface of the water. Almost touching - but do not outgrow, do not come out into the air and do not lie down on the water. If the stems are too short, they grow actively, stretch upward, and the distances between the rosettes of leaves become too large. If the plant grows into the air, it “stops being interested” in what happens to its underwater part, and the aquatic leaves are suppressed and partially discarded. Therefore, to maintain the decorative effect of long-stemmed species, they have to be constantly pruned.
In the literature you can find various instructions on how best to do this. My experience shows that it is optimal to cut the stem at the moment when it has already touched the surface, and maybe even 1-2 leaves have stuck out above it. At this time, I cut off the upper 2/3 of the plant and strengthen it in the ground next to the mother stem, and leave the remaining headless third to sit in place - soon 3-4 new branches will grow from the lateral axils of the leaves, which will also begin their journey to the surface . Some plants (for example, almost all hygrophiles, potamogetons, pogestemon Octopus, some rotals and ludwigias, etc.) are in the habit, growing close to the surface, to shed leaves from the lower half (and even 2/3) of the stem, leaving them only in the upper parts. With such plants I act more radically: I cut them in two places - 4-5 centimeters from the ground and under the lowest remaining rosette of leaves. I throw away the bare middle part of the stem, and root the top next to the remaining “stump,” masking it. The top continues to grow, and 2-3 new growth points will soon form on the stump. I also radically remove the adventitious roots, which many long-stemmed plants tend to grow on the middle part of their stems. Maybe plants need them for additional nutrition from the water column, but, in my opinion, they greatly deteriorate their decorative properties.
It should be noted that despite the fact that long-stemmed plants are anchored by roots in the soil, they receive a significant share of nutrition directly from water, so the supply of liquid fertilizers and CO2 is very beneficial for them, but the presence or absence of nutrients in the soil does not affect them so critical.
Cryptocoryne wendtii var. "Green")
Cryptocorynes belong to the Araceae family and are found naturally in the waters of Sri Lanka.
Green Vendta has elongated wavy leaves with a bright vein on a thin stalk. Leaf color varies from pale green to brownish. Cryptocoryne grows as a neat bush about 20-30 cm high and looks great in the middle ground of the aquarium. Cryptocorynes are quite unpretentious, but prefer the “old” water of an established aquarium.
Bacopa
The most unpretentious, and therefore the most widespread of them is Carolina Bacopa (B. caroliniana = B. amplexicaulis) . This is one of those plants that can be safely recommended to beginning hobbyists. Its bright green, juicy, round-oval leaves are arranged in pairs on a rather dense, not fragile stem. Carolina bacopa survives in almost any aquarium, is resistant to silting of the soil, lack of light or nutrients, and survives in a floating state, in this case releasing adventitious roots. A native of the Atlantic coast of North and South America, it tolerates wide ranges of temperature (comfort zone - from 18 to 28 ° C), hardness and pH, slowing growth and deforming leaves only in very hard alkaline water. This bacopa is not inhibited by the excess content of organic matter in the water of an aquarium that has not been cleaned for a long time. But what bacopa does not like is great depths (over 50 cm). The roots of Carolina bacopa are weak, so when planting it is better to bury 1-2 lower whorls of leaves into the ground.
In bright, full-spectrum light, the leaves of the upper tiers turn red and become thicker and fleshier - this indicates that the plant is in very good health. Carolina bacopa does not require the supply of CO2 and soil fertilizers, but it will respond with gratitude to the addition of liquid fertilizers to the water. When released into the air, bacopa does not change the shape of the leaf, continuing to grow as if nothing had happened, while the underwater part of the stem does not “go bald”, and when planting aerial shoots under water, it does not shed aerial leaves. On the tops exposed to the air, beautiful delicate blue flowers sometimes bloom with a subtle mint-lemon aroma (by the way, the juice of the leaves of this plant also smells the same). Unlike its closest relative B. monnieri, Carolina bacopa does not bear fruit in an aquarium and does not form seeds. The bacopa stems that have reached the surface are cut at a height of 1/3 - 1/2 of the height so that the cut top is no shorter than 10 cm, and planted in the ground. In this case, 1-2 axillary buds on the “stump” are activated, and growth continues from them. Sometimes bacopa forms creeping, creeping shoots that take root in the ground in several places and send out vertical branches from axillary buds. In this way, the plant forms a beautiful bush with an aesthetic shape.
Bacopa carolina - variegated Bacopa carolina
In addition to the Carolina bacopa, other plants of this genus are often found in aquariums - Bacopa Monnieri or small-leaved (B. monnieri), Bacopa southern (and not “Australian”, as it is often called in the literature!) (B. australis), Bacopa rosea (B .colorata) and a new species in our country - fuzzy bacopa (B.lanigera). Their differences from the base species are not very large.
Southern bacopa (B. australis) is distinguished by larger and less fleshy leaves, and is also more prone than Carolina bacopa to the formation of creeping shoots, which only increases its decorative value in an aquarium. Under good light, and especially in the presence of CO2, southern bacopa “nailed” to the bottom, forming low-growing, but dense and branched bushes instead of vertical stems, which allows it to be used to form design elements in the middle and side plans. It should be noted that such bushes can be safely cut, giving them the desired shape - the plant is not “offended” even by the rather merciless shaping with scissors, and is not oppressed by this operation.
Bacopa Monnieri or small-leaved (B. monnieri) - as the name suggests, a smaller species, with small leaves and thin stems. It is as unpretentious as the basic species, but has a slower growth rate, is more fragile, and looks good only in a large dense group, so it should be planted a lot at once. Its delicate leaves are more often damaged by fish that love to “nip the grass”, and also often suffer from shading by large rosette plants. Coming above the surface, small-leaved bacopa blooms with beautiful blue flowers that can form viable seeds even in an aquarium. Otherwise, it differs little from the Carolina one.
Bacopa Monnieri Bacopa Monnieri
Rosebacopa (B.colorata) is often confused with small-leaved bacopa, from which it is distinguished by its larger size, pointed leaf tips and pinkish-brown tint. In good bright light, the leaves of this bacopa enlarge, become brighter and shimmer in all shades of red - from orange-yellow to burgundy-brown. Rosebacopa bushes tend to grow not only upward, but also in width, which should be taken into account when placing it in an aquarium composition. The biology of this species differs little from B.monnieri.
The newly cultivated Bacopa (B.lanigera) differs significantly from the species described above. In contrast, this plant is semi-aquatic, loving shallow bodies of water and tending to enter the air. The pubescence of the stem with fine hair, which is not typical for typically aquatic plants, additionally indicates its tendency to live on land. If in all previous types of bacopa the emersian and submersian leaves are almost the same, then fleecy bacopa in the air begins to produce a leaf of a completely different shape, with a jagged edge. It feels best in a paludarium, where it begins to actively grow above the water and bloom. In an aquarium, this species can be considered problematic.
Echinodorus "Kleiner Bar"
This Echinodorus, which has long been known, belongs to the Chastukhov family. The small bear is a selective form bred artificially. In nature, Echinodorus are found in water bodies of South America.
The small bear grows into a fairly compact bush about 20 cm high and the same diameter. Great for planting in the center of an aquarium. Echinodorus has oval leaves, slightly pointed at the end, on small cuttings. The color of young leaves is deep burgundy, changing to green as they grow.
Hygrophiles
This is one of the most extensive, variable and systematically intricate groups of long-stemmed aquatic plants. The variability of hygrophiles depending on external conditions led to the fact that botanists described the same plants two or three times, classifying them as different biological species, or even genera. According to current views, all freshwater aquarium Acanthaceae (hygrophiles, nomaphiles, synnemas, etc.) belong to a single extensive genus Hygrophila, widely represented in our aquariums.
The most common species is Hygrophila polysperma , an inhabitant of the rice fields of India, China and adjacent countries that has long been well known to aquarists. Its prevalence is explained primarily by its unpretentiousness - it feels normal at temperatures from 18 to 32 ° C, is undemanding to the chemical parameters of water and is not inhibited by poor lighting. On the contrary, from too much light its leaves become shorter and smaller.
Like all hygrophiles, H. polysperma has one unpleasant feature: by the time the top of its stem reaches the surface, the leaves on the lower half of the plant fly off, and the grown hygrophiles look like “palm trees” with lush foliage on the upper third of the stem and a bare trunk , on which adventitious roots are often formed. This feature is especially pronounced in hard water (8° or more). To minimize this effect, which is not very aesthetically pleasing in an aquarium, it makes sense to plant hygrophila in the background, behind large stones and snags - then the bald stem is perfectly decorated with these design elements. If the hygrophila bush sits in an open place, then when it reaches the surface, it makes sense to cut the plant at a height of 5-6 cm from the ground, remove the bare trunk to the lower leaves, and plant the top again in the ground. When planting, it is better to deepen the branches by 1-2 whorls of leaves and additionally secure them in the ground, because the roots grow significantly slower than the leaves, and the stems have strong buoyancy. Over time, hygrophila forms rather dense bushy thickets, which serve as an excellent shelter for fry (for example, many species of viviparous fish).
H. polysperma feeds mainly on soil, the root system is powerful and well developed. The use of nutritious soils or soil fertilizers promotes longer retention of leaves on the stem and shortening of internodes, which improves the decorative qualities of hygrophila. CO2 supply is not recommended because... Hygrophila grows well without it, but carbon dioxide can cause excessive acceleration of growth. Propagated, like most long-stemmed plants, by stem cuttings. Sometimes it is possible to grow daughter plants from buds formed on leaves that have come off and are floating on the surface.
Hygrophila polyspermous Hygrophila polyspermous "Broad-leaved"
Polyspermous hygrophila is very variable, easily forming forms that differ in size, shape and shades of the leaf. Some of these forms are fixed in culture - for example, " Rosnervig " with dark green-pink leaves and light pink veins, "Broad leaf" with rounded wide leaves, " Ceylon " with elongated yellowish-brown leaves. Every year, more and more new forms and breeds of polyspermous hygrophila appear in the catalogs of the world's major suppliers of aquarium flora. Redleaf and other unusual forms of hygrophila tend to be more finicky than the native species and require more frequent water changes and stronger light. The remaining conditions of detention are the same as for the original species.
Hygrophila Schisandra Hygrophila polysperma "Bright Pink"
The second no less common and no less diverse species of hygrophila is Schisandra (Hygrophila corymbosa) , which, according to modern taxonomy, includes a dozen plants of different appearance, previously attributed to five different species of the genera Hygrophila and Nomaphila. This species is characterized by a hard, dark stem that almost becomes woody with age and a powerful root system that firmly holds the plant in the ground. Dense leaves are arranged in pairs. Growing to the surface, the plant, like the previous species, usually sheds leaves from the lower 2/3 of the stem, often growing instead adventitious roots going vertically down. Reproduction is similar to the previous species. A detached Schisandra leaf floating on the surface can form a bud at the detachment point and give roots from it, but it is extremely rare that a new growth point is formed from such a leaf bud, so this phenomenon cannot be considered as a method of propagation. When released into the air, lemongrass can bloom with bluish-lilac flowers, but does not produce fruits or seeds in the aquarium. Schisandra loves high temperatures (24-28°). The hardness of the water does not matter, but it is better to make the lighting brighter, because... insufficient light enhances the “palm tree effect” (dropping of the lower leaves and increasing the area of the upper ones), which worsens the aesthetics of the plant. Sudden changes in chemical parameters can lead to curling and even shedding of young leaves. The same applies to the addition of table salt, which is sometimes used by aquarists as a medicine and an immunostimulant (for example, for viviparous fish). In the presence of hygrophila, it is better to abstain from salt.
The best known form of Schisandra is H. corymbosa corymbosa , formerly known as " Nomaphila stricta" with large, broad, light green leaves with distinct venation. The underside of the leaf is covered with microscopic villi and has a silvery sheen, which significantly increases the decorative value of the plant. The stems of “nomaphila” that grow to the surface must be cut off, leaving a small stump in the soil. Plant the upper part with leaves nearby, and throw away the “bald” middle of the stem. It is advisable to carry out such an operation at least 2 times a year. This form of lemongrass is quite sensitive to sudden changes in environmental parameters, and therefore does not like strong changes in water, liquid fertilizers, and chemicals in general. H. corymbosa has a very aesthetic dwarf variety (Hc "Compact"), characterized by very short internodes and dense foliage and producing many lateral shoots. This form is very much appreciated by lovers of aquarium design, but, unfortunately, is not yet widespread in our country.
Another widespread form, Hygrophila corymbosa angustifolia , which scientists have proven to belong to the same species only by its flowers, is completely different from it. This is surprising because underwater these plants look completely different. Willow hygrophila, like the very close form Hygrophila corymbosa aroma, has a much thinner and more flexible stem and long narrow soft leaves that flutter in waves with the flow. Narrow-leaved forms of “schizandra” have the highest growth rate among hygrophiles. But they also have their own vagaries: in too soft water they easily shed their leaves, leaving a bare stem and 3-4 upper tiers. In order for them to maintain a normal habit, they need a hardness of 8° and above, as well as frequent (weekly or more often) water changes in small portions, 10-15%. Willow and aromatic hygrophiles respond gratefully to bright light and CO2 supply, however, like the base species, they do not like liquid fertilizers. Hygrophila loosestrife can become a kind of living indicator of the well-being of the environment for aquatic aquarium plants. If small holes form on its older leaves, this is a signal of potassium deficiency. Premature yellowing and death of old leaves indicates a lack of nitrates. New white leaves are a sign of iron deficiency.
Hygrophila corymbose Hygrophila corymbose Hygrophila corymbose "Willow leaf" Hygrophila siamese Hygrophila schisandra Hygrophila siamese small-leaved
An intermediate position between “nomaphyla” and “willow leaf” is occupied by forms with lanceolate leaves - H. corymbosa lacustris (which is often confused with angustifolia) and H. corymbosa siamensis . Their conditions of detention do not differ from those described above.
Over the past decades, probably a dozen different forms of H. corymbosa have been added to the aquariums of domestic hobbyists, including colored ones (“Red”, “Cherry leaf”) and dwarf ones, and their number is increasing every year. Separately, I would like to mention Hc stricta - a form similar to “nomaphyla”, but with even tougher and dark green slightly “corrugated” leaves, reminiscent of anubias leaves. This rare form of Schisandra is extremely aesthetic and has good prospects in an aquascape.
The third species of hygrophila that should be discussed is Synnema, or Hygrophila difformis , formerly known under the incorrect name “ Synnema triflorum ”. The underwater leaves of this hygrophila vary greatly in shape - oval at the bottom, almost round; above - similar to oak leaves, then - jagged along the edges, and at the top deeply indented, openwork, similar to fronds of forest ferns, and at the very surface, touching it, oval, uncut leaves again form. The size of the leaves also varies - from 2-3 to 10-12 cm in length and width. Much depends on the brightness of the lighting: the more light, the more delicate the leaves become, and the larger the size of each leaf blade. The color of the leaf is light green on top, the reverse side is silver. The color of underwater leaves practically does not change depending on the nature of the lighting. In the air, the leaves are dark green, always oval in shape with small teeth along the edges and quite densely pubescent. With a lack of light, the stem of the plant becomes very elongated and it loses its decorative effect, however, the shedding of leaves on the lower half of the stem is not observed in synnema, which is characteristic of other hygrophyla. The absence of the “palm tree effect” is associated with another feature of synnema - the ability to alternate and arrange its leaves so that the lower ones are not shaded by the upper ones. This is called "leaf mosaic". To see this effect, you need to carefully look at the plant exactly from above, so that the top of the stem is under your eyes. All leaves are shifted on the stem, each pair has its own axis, and these axes do not coincide. At the same time, the huge dissected blades of the upper leaves minimally cover the lower ones, and they cover even lower ones, and everyone receives their share of illumination. However, this can only be noticed in a separate plant: when the leaves of different specimens interfere with each other, the mosaic, of course, is disrupted.
Hygrophila heterogeneous “White-blue” Hygrophila heterogeneous (“Sinnema”)
The soil for synnema should be more nutritious than for other hygrophiles. Sinnema is quite thermophilic (24-28°C), but water hardness is not of fundamental importance for it, as is pH 6-8. Unlike the species described above, synnema responds well to liquid and soil fertilizers. The supply of CO2, although it accelerates its growth, seems unnecessary: synnema already grows very quickly to the surface and tries to “jump” above it (which, if possible, should not be allowed). Unlike “nomaphila” and “willow leaf”, synnema is sensitive to transplantation or even simple movement in the ground: it reacts to damage to the root system by producing a series of oval or “oak”, not dissected leaves. Propagated by cuttings, like all long-stemmed plants. You can separate a healthy leaf and let it float in the water, then at the site of separation a bud will form, from which a daughter plant will grow, but this process occurs rather slowly. Having come to the surface, sinnema sometimes blooms with small pink flowers.
Let us briefly touch on other types of hygrophila, sometimes found in our country.
Hygrophila "Red"
Guiana hygrophila (Hygrophila guianensis) is a light green hygrophila with lanceolate leaves, very similar in appearance and cultivation characteristics to H. corymbosa siamensis, but much larger, fast-growing, and “jumping” above the surface of the water. This species is well suited for very large aquariums, because... due to its size, it holds well at a depth of 6-70 and even 80 cm.
Hygrophila sp. “Red” is a breeding form bred in Southeast Asia. The taxonomic position is unclear, but most likely its ancestor was the same infinitely variable H. corymbosa, especially since its line of forms also includes red-leaved ones. Unlike “nomaphila”, it needs brighter light, CO2 and fertilizers.
Balsam hygrophila (Hygrophila balsamica) is a rare, but very decorative hygrophila with finely dissected leaves, similar to dill leaves. Its low prevalence in aquariums is partly explained by rumors about its toxicity to fish. However, dangerous alkaloids are contained only in the juice of the land form of this plant, while the underwater form is completely harmless. In addition, it is quite capricious, and necessarily requires bright light and a supply of CO2, otherwise it becomes smaller and “coarser”.
Hygrophila crinkled is one of the most unusual hygrophiles; its stem and internodes are so short that it can hardly be called a “long-stemmed plant.” The leaves - long, delicate, translucent at the edges - look more like the leaves of some kind of aponogeton than the leaves of hygrophila. This hygrophila lives only in very soft, almost osmotic water, in a narrow temperature range (24-26°) and an acidic pH. The supply of CO2 is required, and if there is a lack of microelements (especially potassium) in the soil, it turns yellow and drops its leaves. It is clear that this hygrophila is rarely found in amateur aquariums.
Hygrophila pinnatifida
Well, the last hygrophila that I would like to talk about is an extremely fashionable novelty that entered the culture only in 2008, and has already gained many fans. Hygrophila pinnatifida . This extraordinarily beautiful native of the Indian state of Goa has incredible leaf color: the upper side is brown to olive with a slight yellowish veining pattern, and the underside is the color of red Burgundy wine. The underwater form of the plant is more similar in appearance to aroids than to hygrophiles. And in general, this plant can be confused with another fashionable novelty - Bucephalandra (the closest relative of Cryptocorynes and Anubias). Hygrophila pinnatifida is a creeping plant that produces vertical shoots. It can be attached to stones and driftwood, like anubias or Thai fern. Propagated by cutting creeping shoots with vertical shoots. And it is better to propagate the plant with lateral shoots rather than vertical shoots - the upper cuttings develop poorly. Part of the plant with already formed roots will take root faster than cuttings completely without roots. It is recommended to add sufficient nutrients to the aquarium, as well as CO2. This species of hygrophila appears to be very sensitive to potassium deficiency, the absence of which is manifested by the appearance of holes in old leaves. In poor lighting, the plant may begin to produce many vertical shoots stretching to the surface of the water, which sharply worsens its decorative effect. In a shallow aquarium with strong light, Hygrophila pinnatifida “nails” to the ground and begins to behave like a ground cover plant, forming creeping horizontal shoots. However, if you reduce the light, vertical “tops” will immediately begin to grow. In general, this plant is still completely new in cultivation, and all its features have not yet been sufficiently studied.
In addition to those described, more than 80 species of hygrophila grow in Asian reservoirs, and every year more and more of these incredibly diverse and variable plants settle in amateur aquariums.
In the second part - aquarium “Christmas trees” - cabombs and ambulia
In the third part - Ludwigia
Also expected:
- pinnates
- rotals
- other long-stemmed
© Aqua Logo Andrey Klochkov
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Aponogeton crispus "Kompakt"
Aponogeton curly compact is a breeding form of Aponogeton, naturally occurring in India and Sri Lanka. The plant belongs to the family of the same name.
This aponogeton is a compact, very decorative and attractive bush, consisting of a rosette of delicate, strongly wavy leaves of light green color. The height of the bush is about 15 cm. Aponogeton curly compact is a real decoration of the aquarium!
Aquarium: the best plants
You cannot immediately add fish to a new aquarium tank, but algae can be planted as soon as the tank is filled with water.
Plants that are called carpet or ground cover look advantageous. They are suitable for decorating the foreground, since they are located closer to the ground and “spread” across the entire aquarium bottom. These include mosses - Java and Willow - and hygrophila. They grow quite quickly, so a large volume of water passes through their “filters,” improving its quality characteristics.
Moss Java
This most common representative of aquarium flora is most often recommended for beginning aquarists. Moss is unpretentious, does not require painstaking care, grows very quickly and rarely dies. It is recommended to attach Java moss to something, since it prefers to strive for the surface.
Cryptocorynes
They are also very common and just as unpretentious, they are not capricious about the hardness of the water or the strength of the lighting. You can choose wonderful specimens for aquariums of different sizes.
Sintyag needle-shaped
This is a real find for an aquatic designer. Sintyag can be planted very advantageously on any background - stones, sand or dark soil. The plant reproduces very quickly and equally easily, is extremely viable and indestructible.
Ammania "Bonsai" (Ammania sp. "Bonsai")
Ammania "Bonsai" is a breeding form of Ammania found in water bodies of America and Africa. The plant belongs to the Derbennikov family.
Although ammania belongs to long-stemmed plants, the Bonsai variation is perfect for the middle plan of an aquarium, due to its more compact size: its height is in the range of 15-20 cm. It is a dense straight stem on which small rounded leaves are located. The top of the plant is pinkish in color, while the lower leaves are green in color.
Why do you need plants in an aquarium?
The most obvious answer is: for beauty. He, of course, also has the right to exist, but in the last place. Before that, you can still name many reasons in favor of algae for the aquarium.
- Gas exchange in the reservoir largely depends on them, since these plants are able to absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen in return.
- To a certain extent, they are the best biological water filter. After all, the result of fish activity is various substances - both organic and inorganic, which accumulate in water and soil.
- Aquarium plants can prevent the development of lower algae, but aquarists know that the presence of the latter is a real disaster.
- Large algae play an important role in the reproduction of several species of fish, for example, angelfish, which lay their eggs on their leaves.
- Often plants become natural food for fish.
- For the same species of fish that do not like to “glow”, these representatives of the flora provide shelter.
- And now, finally, the turn has come to the decorative value. With their help, a glass parallelogram or aquarium sphere turns into an eye-catching center of attention.
Barclaya longifolia
Barclaya belongs to the water lily family and is found in water bodies of Southeast Asia. This is a very decorative and attractive plant! It is a rosette of upward-looking pointed leaves with corrugated edges. Their color ranges from deep burgundy to greenish. It grows in an aquarium about 20-30 cm. Barclay looks luxurious in the center of the aquarium.
What do aquarium plants need?
For the most part, these algae are undemanding and easy to care for. You just need to follow the following recommendations:
- select the necessary lighting;
- monitor the condition of the soil;
- monitor the condition of the water;
- Fertilize from time to time.
Regarding the first point, we must remember that photosynthesis occurs under good lighting conditions. However, among plants there are light- and shade-loving specimens.
The soil layer should reach a thickness of 7 cm. In order for algae to take root in the aquarium faster, the soil should be light.
The requirements for water are most often expressed in that it should be slightly acidic. But before planting this or that species, it is better to inquire about its “tastes” specifically.
It is best to buy fertilizers in stores, since they are completely balanced and contain all the minerals and macroelements necessary for aquatic plants.
Nymphoides sp.
Nymphoides belongs to the Shift family and is found naturally in the reservoirs of East Asia.
Nymphoides looks great in the center of the aquarium thanks to its graceful light green leaves on a long, thin stalk. The leaves are delicate, rounded, slightly corrugated. The height of the plant is usually 15-20 cm, but with a lack of light it can grow higher.
