How to feed a chameleon at home and what it eats

Arrangement of the terrarium

A properly equipped terrarium will become a home for the chameleon.
If you take a small lizard, then keep in mind that it should not be cramped not only for a small one, but also for an older one. Choose a vertical terrarium with a height of 80 cm or more. If you take a female, then maybe a little smaller. The length and width should be approximately 50 cm. The terrarium should not be completely glass. It is optimal if there are mesh walls and ceiling - this is necessary for good ventilation. Heated air should circulate inside and create a favorable microclimate. Chameleons need warmth, so in winter, do not place the terrarium near cold windows and avoid drafts.

To make your pet comfortable and grow healthy, you will need two lamps - one for heating and one for ultraviolet. Using a heating lamp, the required temperature is maintained at 27-29 degrees. A heating point with a temperature of 32-35 degrees will be created around it, where the lizard will come if it wants to warm up.

Experienced breeders advise turning off the lamps after 13 hours and thereby indicating the onset of night. This is the maximum duration of daylight hours, the minimum is 12 hours. At night in the terrarium it should be +22 +24 degrees.

In addition to heat, it is important to maintain the desired humidity - about 50% and not higher than 80%. To do this, in addition to a thermometer, purchase a hygrometer.

To keep the chameleon's home humid enough, spray the moisture:

• using an automatic spray system;
• spray bottle - including treating plant leaves with warm water.

A bedding made of coconut husks or other similar material will help maintain humidity levels. If it is too humid, adjust the water supply to prevent mold and mildew from appearing. When choosing a rocky substrate, before placing it in the terrarium, it is first washed with warm water and boiled, or calcined with fire.

The flora in the terrarium can be anything. The main thing is that the chameleon has somewhere to climb and hide. These include plants, sticks, and driftwood.

Household chameleon nutrition

The basis of the diet for these creatures is cockroaches and crickets. It is necessary to find a supplier of these products in advance: without them, the normal existence of your lizard will be impossible. Food should be given in sufficient quantities (4-5 insects for adults and 2-3 for young animals), but the pet should not be overfed.

As for drinking, in their natural habitat these exotic animals drink (or rather, lick) the water that accumulates on the leaves and branches. So, to establish the correct drinking regime, it is not enough to install a drinking bowl with water - you must regularly spray all the internal walls and surfaces of the terrarium with liquid from a spray bottle so that the pet can lick the water (otherwise it will simply die from dehydration).

The diet does not end with two types of insects. It can be diversified by locusts, zoophobass, mealworms and even naked mice (the latter - no more than once a week). It is believed that live food must be removed from the exoterrarium at night so as not to injure the lizard. It is very important to ensure variety in your chameleons' diet. When feeding a pet one type of insect, lizards often develop diseases of the gastrointestinal tract associated with disorders of the digestive system.

Plant foods should also be present in the range of dishes for the reptile. These can be bananas or succulent leaves of any non-poisonous plants.

In veterinary pharmacies you can also purchase special vitamin and mineral supplements designed strictly for reptiles. If they are mixed with food (in the ratio specified in the instructions), the animal will grow healthy. The supplement from Tetra Fauna called “Rep-Cal+Repto Live” for daily use (mix in a 3:1 ratio) received good reviews.

Diseases and health problems in chameleons

The structural features of the body of these exotic creatures directly affect the presence of diseases common in their environment. In fact, they often get sick due to problems with the eyes and vision (including the musculo-ligamentous apparatus of the eyes), burns, disturbances in the gastrointestinal tract, lack of vitamins and minerals in the body, which leads to rickets or other malfunctions balance of the reptile's body.

Everything is complicated by the fact that pet diseases arise rapidly and develop extremely quickly - therefore, untimely provision of qualified veterinary care can lead to the death of a chameleon even from a not particularly serious illness.

Food intoxication may also occur, which is usually caused by regular overfeeding of the lizard. Pronounced symptoms of this condition include reptile lethargy, loss of appetite, and constipation. If a chameleon has a weakened immune system, viral diseases cannot be ruled out. When you notice signs such as coughing (immediately rule out the possibility of pneumonia, since lizards do not tolerate temperature changes, drafts and cold), bloating, apathy and lethargy, then most likely your pet is suffering from a helminthic infestation. This problem can be observed in those chameleons that were caught in the wild before getting into the pet store.

The owner of an exotic animal should be alarmed by the slightest disturbance in the behavior of a chameleon - this is a reason to immediately contact a veterinarian. Taking into account all the specifics of these vulnerable creatures, experienced reptile owners immediately take their pet to a herpetologist, and not to the usual veterinary doctor: only this specialized reptile specialist is able to quickly provide adequate and professional assistance to a sick chameleon.

Health, disease and prevention

The most common disease of chameleons is infection with parasites through poor-quality food or poor water, therefore, even if careful sanitation conditions are observed, it is necessary to check the health of the reptile twice a month by taking tests. No less often, scaly reptiles are infected with subcutaneous nematodes, for the removal of which surgical incisions are made.

The second most common disease among chameleons is metabolic bone disease, which occurs when there is an oversaturation or deficiency of calcium, phosphorus or vitamin D3. With this pathology, the limbs become increasingly fragile, bend and break. A characteristic anorexia of the tongue also appears, preventing independent consumption of water and causing the painful death of an exotic pet.

Quite often, chameleons suffer from dehydration, which is accompanied by lethargy and a complete lack of appetite, as well as the sunken eyes of a domestic lizard. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to provide the animal with sufficient drinking conditions by drinking the reptile with clean water from a pipette or sprinkling liquid on the vegetation inside the terrarium.

This is interesting! In order to prevent many diseases, the pet is provided with a complete diet, supplemented with special vitamins and basic mineral supplements.

Also, owners of indoor scaly reptiles often face stress that can arise during the process of transporting a chameleon or exposing the pet to loud or too harsh sounds.

It is very important to install the terrarium in a sparsely populated place, to protect your exotic pet from unnecessary negative emotions, and to handle the reptile as little as possible.

Breeding

They become sexually mature at the age of 9-12 months. If you place a suitable partner with them, then it is quite possible to get offspring.

Usually, a planted female causes activity and mating games in the male, but you need to make sure that there is no aggression.

If the female is ready, she will allow the male to court her and mate. They can mate several times until the color changes to dark, indicating that she is pregnant.

The dark color of the female is a signal to the male that he should not touch her. And she becomes very aggressive at this time.

After about a month, the female will begin to look for a place where she will lay eggs. She sinks to the bottom of the terrarium and looks for a place to burrow.

As soon as you notice this, add a container of moist vermiculite or fiber to the terrarium.

The mixture should allow the female to dig a hole without crumbling. Moreover, the container should be large enough, at least 30 by 30 cm. The female can lay up to 85 eggs.

They will incubate at 27-28 degrees for 5 to 10 months. You can transfer the eggs to an incubator, where it will be easier to monitor them and remove unfertilized ones.

Breeding chameleons

Yemen chameleons breed quite easily in captivity. And once the owner has mastered the nuances of proper care and maintenance of one reptile, if desired, he can begin breeding offspring by selecting a mate for his pet. The mating process in reptiles occurs on the very first day after the female is placed in the terrarium with the male. There are two main signs that fertilization has taken place and the reptile is pregnant: aggressive behavior of the female pet and a change in its color to darker, with large bright yellow spots over the entire surface of the body.

The gestation of small lizards in the mother’s stomach will last for a whole month or a little more. During this period, it is important to give the female a sufficient amount of liquid (some breeders even feed the reptile with a pipette). A week before the eggs appear, mommy becomes more restless and begins to carefully examine the bottom of her terrarium in search of a place suitable for laying eggs. You can make this task easier for her by placing a small container (40 by 30 centimeters is suitable) with wet vermiculite (at least 15 centimeters deep) in the exoterrarium. The female chameleon will be able to dig a tunnel in it, at the end of which she will lay her eggs.

As soon as the laying has taken place, the container must be placed in the incubator (carefully place the future babies at a distance of 1 centimeter from each other). When laying eggs, it is very important not to turn them over, but to place them on the same side with which the female laid them in the tunnel.

To increase the chances of giving birth to live chameleons, maintain the correct temperature in the incubator (28-29 degrees during the day and 20-22 degrees at night).

After 4-9 months, the offspring hatch into the world. Babies are placed in groups of 5-6 in small terrariums, and when they reach three months of age they are necessarily separated from each other (remember about the aggressive behavior of chameleons towards each other). The diet of the babies will not differ much from the diet of adult chameleons; you only need to add calcium supplements to prevent rickets.

In fact, caring for a pet chameleon is not difficult; it is enough to study the nuances of keeping these exotic beauties in captivity, decide what you will feed them and how to take care of their health and good mood. This must be done before you adopt your pet permanently. And then he will delight you with a good appetite, grooming, and, perhaps, offspring!

You can also read additional recommendations from veterinarians on caring for pets in the “Tips” section.

Domestic reptile species

This group contains lizards that live at home and participate in various exhibitions and other events.

Yemen chameleon

At home, reptiles often get sick and are subject to stress. They require careful and special care. Chameleons are distinguished by their inimitable beauty in appearance. Individuals are capable of changing color. At the beginning of their life, the body has a greenish-light green tint, which is later diluted with wide stripes. The change in color of a reptile depends on its mood and status.

Three-horned chameleon

The pet can also change its color. The second name for the chameleon is “Jackson's lizard.” A peculiarity of the reptile is the presence of three horns, the longest and thickest of which is the central one. Lizards have a strong tail and can move deftly through trees.

Common spiketail

On the outer side of the reptile's tail there are spike-like processes. Lizards can grow up to 75 cm, so in some cases keeping them in the house is very difficult and even impractical. If the spiketail is frightened, it can attack and even bite.

Australian agama

Water-loving lizards have tenacious claws and long limbs, thanks to which they deftly climb trees. The animals grow up to 800 g, they are very careful and dive and swim with ease.

Panther chameleon

This type of lizard is considered one of the cutest and largest. Various colors depend on the habitat. Animals can have scales of blue, red-green, gray-yellow, light green and other colors. Quite often, reptiles curl their tails into a kind of donut. They feed on insects and can live up to 5 years at home.

Fantastic gecko

The most skillful camouflage plant that blends perfectly with the background of the leaves. Lizards have a flat tail, uneven body and brownish, rough scales. This is one of the most suitable reptiles for keeping at home.

frilled lizard

The reptile closely resembles a small dragon. A large fold of skin located on the neck may swell and change color. To enhance the effect, the animal stands on its hind legs. The individual has a gray-brown or bright red body with light and dark spots.

Leopard gecko

A cute lizard with yellow and white scales with spots like a leopard. The abdomen of reptiles is white, the body can reach 25 cm in length. Caring for a lizard at home is quite simple.

Eyelash banana gecko

The owner of a long body, an ideal camouflage. This rare species of reptile is distinguished by its unique “cilia” (skin extensions located above the eye sockets). The animal loves bananas, mangoes, and other fruits.

Green iguana

One of the large, massive and agile lizards, which has small horns on the top of its head. The weight of the animal can reach 9 kg. The iguana has a wide crest on its back. To keep a lizard at home you will need a very large area.

Fire skink

A lizard that is mistaken for a snake. The reptile has a wide body and short legs, which are practically invisible, which is why it seems that the skink is crawling and not walking on the ground. The length of the lizard reaches 35 cm.

Blue tongue skink

A similar species of lizard that has a long, light blue tongue. The animal grows up to 50 cm and has smooth scales.

Black and white tegu

An impressive size reptile, growing up to 1.3 meters. The diurnal predator feeds on rodents, slowly killing its prey. The lizard has large eyes, a pale pink tongue and short limbs.

Water dragon

An amazing lizard that regenerates both limbs and gills. Reptiles come in pink, purple, gray and other colors. The water dragon looks like a fish with sharp teeth that allow it to hold its prey.

How to choose a chameleon when buying?

For home keeping, it is recommended to purchase the youngest lizards, which will be easiest to tame. When choosing, determining the age of a particular individual is very difficult. First of all, you should rely on the size of the animal. Obviously, the smaller the body, the younger the chameleon.

When buying a lizard, especially for beginners, it is best to buy lizards born in captivity. Natural animals caught from the wild are often infected with various parasites and can have all sorts of diseases.

There are animals on sale that suffer from rickets. The first thing you should pay attention to is the back; it should be moderately arched, without dips along the entire length and limb of the lizard.

Do not buy an animal whose paws are saber-shaped or have difficulty moving.

Such symptoms almost always indicate an animal suffering from calcium deficiency. Next, pay attention to the lizard's eyes. A healthy chameleon's eyes are open during the day and are constantly on the move.

Eyes that remain closed for a long time indicate an overtired animal that has been kept in difficult conditions for a long period. Avoid purchasing a lizard with sunken eyes - this is a clear sign of dehydration.

The next indicator of an animal’s condition is its color. Dark or gray indicates that the lizard is ill or kept at low temperatures, which can lead to colds that are fatal to cold-blooded animals.

It is very advisable to look into the mouth of a lizard - individuals suffering from stomatitis are often found on sale. It should be bright pink, without abscesses or dark spots.

Microclimate

Keeping a chameleon comes with some challenges. They require a certain temperature and humidity. Reptiles are very sensitive to low and high temperatures. When overheated or hypothermic, they suffer from respiratory diseases.

This is the downside of an exotic pet. The microclimate depends on the type of reptile. When keeping animals such as chameleons at home, it is necessary to find out their origin, characteristics and description of the species:

• small reptiles live in Madagascar, in the southern part of the Central Plateau. They are accustomed to high humidity. During the daytime, the air can warm up to 30 C. The recommended temperature for a lizard is 26-28 C. At night, the temperature drops to 23-25 ​​C. The animal feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-20 C. The optimal humidity for it is 80-90%;
• a different microclimate is organized for the Yemeni chameleon. He lives on mountain slopes in Yemen and Saudi Arabia. When keeping a reptile, it is necessary to take into account high temperatures during the day and low temperatures at night. Throughout the day, the lizard is maintained at 29 C. In the evening, the temperature is reduced to 18-20 C. Air humidity should not be high. Individuals normally tolerate dry air with a low percentage of humidity, from 20% to 50%;
• The panther chameleon cannot exist in dry climates. It requires humid air, up to 90%. When keeping lizards, they maintain temperatures of 28 C during the day and 24 C at night;
• Jackson's chameleon was brought by humans to Hawaii and Tanzania. It needs a lot of moisture. It is recommended to irrigate it with water from a spray bottle. The optimal daytime temperature is 22-25 C, at night the level can be reduced to 5 C, but in the morning he should be able to warm up his body well. Usually the temperature for lizards is 16 C at night.

When keeping a chameleon at home, heating devices are purchased for it. For heating, a mirror lamp is installed in the terrarium. Optimal power 75 W.

We recommend: How long does a chameleon live at home?

The device is mounted in the upper part of the container near the ventilation hole. It is recommended to equip it with a thermostat. The temperature sensor is masked so that the animal does not get to it.

Buying a chameleon

In nurseries that sell exotics, today you can purchase not only some of the most common types of chameleons from the category of their own breeding, but also natural animals. It is first recommended to make sure that the store or private breeder has an impeccable reputation.

In your hands, the acquired animal should not behave apathetically or too lethargically, and a healthy scaly reptile instinctively defends itself from any “attack”, tries to bite or run away. At the next stage, it is important to conduct a visual inspection of the body to make sure there are no bumps, wounds or swelling on the skin. One of the most significant signs of a chameleon’s health is its color, which determines the state of the exotic.

This is interesting! When a chameleon is kept in poor conditions, the mobility of the scaly reptile is impaired, the appetite is partially or completely lost, the color is too dull or completely uncharacteristic for representatives of the species.

Features of the tree lizard's diet

Small individuals need food twice a day, but adult lizards can be fed every other day. Most of the food consists of insects, such as:

• locust,
• worms,
• zoophobes
• and others.

The remainder of the diet will be apples, grapes, citrus fruits, as well as food of plant origin. Feeding is done using tweezers, but this should be done extremely carefully so that the pet does not swallow the tip of the device and harm itself. You can also put a plastic container and put food in it, after lubricating it with oil, to prevent insects from escaping.

Tree lizards do not have the ability to drink from reservoirs, so you should teach your pet to drink water from a pipette or syringe, or you will have to organize a special drinking bowl. You can also try to pour water into your pet's mouth when he opens it, but this should be done in small quantities.

By fulfilling all the above conditions and nuances, a home chameleon will live for at least four years, while bringing only positive emotions to its owner.

And if you are still undecided on the choice of a pet, perhaps you should pay attention to a pet praying mantis or milk snake. Watch a video on how to keep a chameleon at home below.

Watch a video on how to keep a chameleon at home below.

The right diet

In their natural habitat, chameleons are predators, feeding on various animals and insects, which the exotic reptile hunts with the help of a long and sticky tongue. The main diet of chameleons consists of non-venomous, flying and crawling insects, including:

• Zhukov;
• spiders;
• flies;
• butterflies;
• dragonflies;
• grasshoppers;
• locusts

Some particularly large scaly reptiles also feed on lizards, rodents and small birds. When kept in apartment conditions, the basis of the diet of an exotic pet should be represented by animal and plant foods. During the day, the reptile is able to eat about 5-10 insects, the number of which directly depends on the appetite and individual needs of the animal.

This is interesting! The reptile practically cannot drink from any container, but is quite capable of consuming liquid through a syringe, pipette or special pump, and chameleons give particular preference to natural juices and non-concentrated honey solutions.

Food of plant origin allows you to replenish moisture in the chameleon’s body and saturate it with essential vitamins. Also forage are the tender leaves of various trees and tree bark, some juicy fruits and berry crops, including kiwi, bananas and persimmons, grapes, cherries, apples and pears, watermelon and melon. Soft vegetables, citrus fruits, herbs and green salad leaves are well eaten by exotics.

If the mountain doesn't move...

A chameleon looks funny when it decides that its prey will not get close enough to attack: in such cases, it slowly begins to move in the desired direction. With one eye he fixates on the target, with the other he tirelessly examines the surroundings. With a barely noticeable movement, he lifts his front leg, moves it forward slightly, releases it and moves his tail forward, having first moved his hind leg. Moreover, the limbs are able to move like this: first the left, then the right, and not alternately, as we are used to seeing in other quadrupeds. All this is completely silent and looks like slow motion.

By the way, despite the fact that chameleons prefer a sedentary lifestyle, if necessary, they can run quite quickly and even jump from branch to branch.

Appearance of a domestic Yemeni chameleon

Among all the chameleons found on the planet, the Yemeni chameleon is one of the largest. Males often reach 55 cm in length, females are slightly smaller - up to 35 cm.

The easiest way to determine the sex of the Yemen chameleon is from the first weeks of life - on the hind legs of males, heel spurs are visible at the base of the hands. Females lack spurs from birth. As males age, their spurs become larger and their helmet increases in size. Females have a much less impressive crest.

Another way to distinguish a male in adults is to look at its color. Males have vertical stripes of orange or yellow.

The coloring of reptiles is varied. It can vary from green to black, and multi-colored patterns are often found on the skin.

Rules of care

Upon reaching sexual maturity, the Yemen helmeted chameleon should be kept in a terrarium separately from other individuals. This is done to reduce the likelihood of stress and conflict. Two males cannot live in one place; they are too selfish and do not accept competition.

It is necessary to observe conditions of detention close to natural ones. There are many factors at play here:

• ventilation;
• terrarium size;
• priming;
• place to relax.

The size of the terrarium should be as large as possible, because some individuals can grow up to 60 cm in length. The ideal container would be at least 80 cm high and 40 cm wide. For a female, you can choose a smaller house, but in a larger one she will feel more confident and comfortable.

The size of the terrarium should be large, because some chameleons can grow up to 60 cm in length.

If the reptile was bought very small, then you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to purchase a new house of a much larger size. The opinion that keeping a chameleon in a small terrarium leads to stunted growth is incorrect. The animal will grow up, but sick and constantly suffering from lack of space.

The inside of the house should be decorated with branches and various plants, where the pet can hide from prying eyes and relax. But the entire structure must be extremely reliable; the chameleon could not damage its skin or paws. The ideal option would be to use ficus or dracaena. It is better not to install artificial plants - dust will collect on them, and they will be of little use to the pet. But fresh flowers will additionally regulate the temperature and humidity in the terrarium.

Chameleon walking, interaction

Chameleons certainly do not need daily walks, but periodic walks benefit the scaly domestic reptile. It is recommended to walk the reptile in a small fenced area with as clean vegetation as possible and the complete absence of any objects that could injure the pet.

After a walk, the exotic animal must be carefully examined. It is best if the reptile sunbathes not in direct sunlight, in the morning or evening.

Lighting and heating

The terrarium must be illuminated with two types of lamps for 12 hours.

The first is heat lamps so they can bask under them and regulate their body temperature. Bottom heating, heated rocks and other heat sources are unfamiliar to them, so you need to use special reptile lamps.

The second is an ultraviolet lamp, it is needed so that the chameleon can properly absorb calcium. In nature, it has enough solar spectrum, but in captivity, and even in our latitudes, it does not.

But, remember that the UV spectrum is filtered by ordinary glass, so the lamp must be placed in an open corner. And they need to be changed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, even if they still shine.

They no longer provide the required amount of UV rays due to phosphor burnout.

Like all reptiles, the Yemen chameleon regulates its body temperature depending on its external environment.

The average temperature in the terrarium should be between 27-29 degrees. In the heating area, under the lamps, it is about 32-35 degrees. This way you will get a heating point and cooler places, and the chameleon will already choose where it is most comfortable at the moment.

It is better to connect the lamp through a thermostat, since overheating is dangerous and can lead to death. It should not be positioned too low so as not to cause burns.

In nature, the temperature drops at night, so additional heating is not needed at this time. But only on condition that it does not fall below 17 degrees and in the morning he can warm up under a lamp.

Conditions for home keeping

In order for a chameleon to live in comfort at home, you should buy a special exoterrarium for it: vertical, 100-120 liters in volume. 2 lamps are placed in it: the first - with UV radiation, the second - is used for incandescent air.

Separately, you need to take care of heating the bottom of the terrarium at night. The chameleon’s home should also include a shallow mini pond, ideally occupying ¼ of the total area of ​​the terrarium. Important decorative elements will be a tree (depending on the size of the pet and the terrarium, choose a branch or a whole piece of driftwood) and live or artificial landscaping. It is imperative to organize good ventilation inside the house for the chameleon.

You will have to clean such a terrarium once every 2 days (if you are lazy and do it less often, pathogenic microflora can develop in your pet’s home, which is extremely harmful to any type of reptile).

Recommendations for temperature in the exoterrarium: general - should be 22-24 degrees, directly under the heating source - 30-32 degrees. Humidity is maintained within 30-50%. The ultraviolet lamp is turned on for 6-8 hours a day.

If you want to have a couple of individuals at once, you should not put them in a common terrarium: chameleons are quite aggressive towards their relatives (with the exception of the mating period) - therefore, any member of the family can become an enemy, and the neighborhood can end in bloodshed. Organize separate areas for them to live.

Chameleon in captivity: coloring, size, life expectancy

1. In size and appearance, females are quite easy to distinguish from males: males have a length in the range of 45-60 cm, and females are only 35 cm. However, the body of females is wider than that of males. All animals have a six-centimeter crest on their heads, and when young, each has a green skin color. As the animal grows up, stripes begin to appear all over its body, but if the pet is put under stress, they can disappear, as, for example, in females during pregnancy.
2. Everyone knows that the color of a lizard can change - this is facilitated by different conditions and even social status. This is evidenced by the experimental experience of raising individuals of the same species in different statuses: a young Yemen chameleon raised alone has a pale and darkened color than individuals that were kept together.
3. With proper care and compliance with all recommendations regarding the animal's home environment, a male chameleon can live up to 8 years. Females live a little shorter: their limit is 6 years. The injustice lies in the constant gestation of eggs by females, which may never even be fertilized during the entire period of the animal’s life; however, this is tiring and takes a lot of energy and strength.

What to do if a Yemeni chameleon bites?

The pet often bites its owners. This lizard's teeth are quite large and its jaws are powerful.

The bites cause significant pain, bleed for a long time and leave noticeable scars.

This is a natural defensive reaction until the pet is accustomed to being handled.

But even a tame animal can bite if it gets scared or feels a direct threat.

Unfortunately, the only way to definitely avoid being bitten is to not handle the chameleon. There's nothing you can do about it here.

The wounds themselves do not pose a danger to human health. However, it is recommended to treat with an antiseptic and apply a sterile bandage.

Interesting Facts

• The Yemen chameleon is one of the most aggressive and largest species in the entire chameleon family.
• It is known that the tongue of this reptile is often 1.5-2 times longer than its entire body. Its structure is such that in the resting position it is located in the mouth, held by the cartilaginous bone of the lower jaw. At the moment of attack on prey, the lingual muscle tenses and, with the help of cartilage, the organ is sharply pushed out, then it relaxes, and the lizard pulls it back into the mouth.
• The Yemen chameleon is the most common species among reptile enthusiasts. Every day, all over the world, a huge number of these animals are sold.

It received its name from the region where the species was originally described—the western coast of Yemen, where it still lives. They also inhabit the Arabian Peninsula on the southwestern coast of Saudi Arabia in the wild. They live on the branches of various types of tropical trees.

How a chameleon changes color

Changing body color is the most famous and interesting ability of the animal. Changes in skin color occur due to special cells (chromatophores) located in the skin. Chromatophores are cells that can change color to red, black, yellow and brown. A change in color in cells can occur due to a change in the reptile's mood, feelings of hunger or other factors.

So, thanks to the color of the skin, you can determine what the animal is feeling and what factor is affecting it at the moment:

• A red tint to the skin may occur if the animal feels fear or is preparing to attack an opponent;
• Most often, males are painted with several bright colors - this is done to attract a female during the mating season;
• If a pet changes color to black, it attracts light on sunny days or when it is cool.
• The animal changes its shade to a light one if the weather is hot outside and the skin serves as a kind of reflector of the sun's rays in the summer.

But more often a reptile changes color in the wild; a domestic chameleon does not change skin color as often. And also, if color changes occur, it will not be to particularly bright colors, most likely the shade will be of a paler color. The animal can also often change color to match the color of the object on which it is sitting, this could be a branch, grass or snag.

Fright is very dangerous for the health of the reptile, so you should properly furnish the terrarium so that the color of the skin does not change.

Description of the chameleon

The wide popularity of chameleons is due to their ability to change the color and pattern of the body, which is explained by some features in the structure of the skin. The fibrous and deeper outer layer of the skin is distinguished by the presence of special branched cells with pigments of dark brown, black, yellow and reddish colors.

As a result of contraction of the chromatophore processes, a redistribution of pigment grains and a change in the color of the skin occurs. Thanks to the combination of pigments in both layers, a variety of color shades appear.

Appearance

Most species of scaly reptiles have a body length within 30 cm, but the largest individuals reach sizes of 50-60 cm. The body length of the smallest chameleons does not exceed 3-5 cm. The head is helmet-shaped, with a raised occipital part. Some of these representatives of the lizard family are characterized by the presence of more or less convex ridges, tubercles or elongated, pointed horns. Often such formations are developed exclusively in males, while in females they are represented in rudimentary forms.

The scaly reptile's legs are long, well adapted for climbing. The animal’s fingers grow together into a pair of opposing groups of two and three, due to which they have the appearance of a kind of “claws” capable of tightly grasping tree branches. The tail is thick at the base, gradually tapering towards the end, sometimes spiraling down and twining around the branches. This ability of the tail is characteristic of most members of the family, but chameleons do not know how to restore a lost tail.

Chameleons are distinguished by unusual organs of vision. The eyelids of a scaly reptile are fused and constantly cover its eyes, but have a hole for the pupil. In this case, the right and left eyes may make uncoordinated movements.

During hunting, such animals are able to sit motionless on tree branches for a long time, tracking prey only with their eyes. The animal catches insects with its tongue equipped with a catching suction cup. Such creatures lack an external and middle ear, but their hearing is capable of sensitively detecting acoustic waves within the sound range of 250–650 Hz.

Lifestyle, behavior

Almost the entire life of chameleons takes place on the branches of dense bushes or on the branches of trees, and the scaly reptile prefers to descend to the surface of the earth extremely rarely. You can usually catch such an animal on the ground during the mating season or in the process of hunting for some very tasty prey.

Chameleons move along the surface of the soil on paws that have a very unusual claw-like shape. It is this structure of the limbs, complemented by a tenacious tail, that is ideally suited for living in the crowns of trees. Scaly reptiles, which are not too large in size, are quite lazy and phlegmatic, lead a sedentary lifestyle and prefer to move as little as possible, spending a significant part of the time simply sitting in the chosen place.

However, if necessary and real danger arises, the animal is capable of running quickly and quite deftly jumping on branches. The chameleon's peak activity period occurs during daylight hours, and when night falls, the animal prefers to sleep. During sleep, the reptile is unable to control the change in color of its body, so it can become very easy prey for all kinds of predators.

How long do chameleons live?

The average life expectancy of chameleons in natural conditions is approximately four years, but among members of the family there are also so-called long-livers. For example, giant chameleons can live in nature for about fifteen years, and the life cycle characteristic of some representatives belonging to the genus Furcifer most often lasts no more than five months.

Sexual dimorphism

Determining the gender of an adult chameleon is not too difficult even for ordinary people. If the scaly reptile has managed to take on a camouflage color, then the tarsal processes, which are spurs near the animal’s paws, should be examined.

Male individuals have small growths on the back of their paws. The absence of such outgrowths is characteristic only of females. Among other things, males are distinguished by brighter colors and larger body sizes.

Chameleon appearance

Representatives of the chameleon family have quite strong differences in appearance from other lizards (they were even separated into a special suborder of worm-tongues: they have so many different things from other reptiles). Fingers fused together and eyes rotating independently of each other - all this can make an indelible impression on the future owner of the chameleon. But this is not all that makes these lizards special in appearance and body structure. They can change their skin tone and blend in with their environment (an escaped chameleon is a real adventure with a long search for the prankster), and their anatomical and morphological structure indicates that the ancestors of these creatures were ancient lizards or even dinosaurs. By analogy with extinct huge monsters, they do not have a bone marrow (it is replaced by a cartilaginous “cap”), and in the chameleon’s lungs there are many additional blind processes that help the animal swell and frighten its enemies and rivals in mating games, making a terrifying impression.

The chameleon family includes about 80 species of these reptiles and several genera, living mainly in Africa, Madagascar and its adjacent islands. But the same common chameleon can be found in mountain forests, semi-deserts or steppes.

In our country, the most commonly sold lizards are from Yemen (Yemen chameleons), panther chameleons and Jackson's chameleons. The differences between them are minor (including in appearance).

Yemen chameleons reach a length of 50 centimeters, but females are always smaller than males (maximum 40 centimeters). These are reptiles with a laterally compressed body, a short neck, a long prehensile tail that can be folded many times, and five-fingered paws. The creature's skin is rough, its eyes are round and very mobile, surrounded by motley colored scales - the same as on the rest of the body. Interestingly, the central tiny hole for the pupil is under no circumstances covered by skin. The lizard's tongue is long, with a depression at the end, which makes it look like a suction cup. It is quickly thrown out to a distance of up to 30 centimeters and reliably attaches itself to the caught prey.

Types of silk effect paints

In the market of paints and varnishes, decorative paints of this kind are especially distinguished. Most often they are intended for finishing interiors that claim to be rich and luxurious apartments.

Silk effect paint. Photo

There are several types of “silk” paints.

1. Pearlescent paints with a metallic shine effect. The color range is represented by a rich selection of the most noble shades: gold, silver and bronze. The paint is applied in several layers. Only if all the rules are followed correctly will the last layer sparkle with the desired color.
2. Chameleon paint or paint with a wet silk effect. As the name suggests, at different viewing angles, the painted surface will sparkle with different colors. The main tone of the paint is provided by the primer or substrate. And on top they are covered with sparkling pigments.
3. Granular mosaic paint. This type is used to emphasize individual objects or details in a setting.

In any case, no matter what type of paint you choose, the design of your premises will turn out to be very stylish, unusual and even luxurious.

Contents and tips for caring for your pet chameleon

For one male individual, the size of the terrarium should be at least half a meter and a meter in height. For a female, you can take a smaller house, and for individuals of a large species, a larger one.

The temperature should vary between +30°C and +32°C, and at night the temperature should be between +22°C and +25°C. So the house should be in a special warm place where it will be neither hot nor cold for the pet. And the main thing is to avoid drafts - they can cause the lizard to become ill.

In addition to the temperature regime, you also need to monitor the daylight hours in the house - it can be artificial or natural.

The main thing is that its duration is no more and no less than 12 hours.

Inside the terrarium you need to decorate it with plants and be sure to place thick canes or put some snags on which the chameleon will climb. You can put a small pond in which your pet can swim. The main thing in the arrangement is that the reptile can find a quiet, secluded corner for itself.

You can build an enclosure for a chameleon in which it can catch insects on its own. On warm nights, you can leave the animal there, but attach a roof to the enclosure to protect it from precipitation.

Heating and lighting

This is a very interesting pet - the Yemeni chameleon. Its maintenance and care require lighting and heating of the terrarium. For this, two types of lamps are used. The first type is lamps for maintaining optimal temperature and heating. The second type is ultraviolet lamps, which the lizard needs for normal calcium absorption.

In natural conditions, the Yemen chameleon has enough sun and warmth, but in captivity, unfortunately, it does not. You need to be aware that these lamps must be maintained and replaced in accordance with the manufacturers' recommendations. The fact is that even a lamp that is still working may not produce the required amount of UV rays due to burnout of the phosphor in it.

Chameleons are able to regulate their own temperature based on external factors. On average, the temperature in the terrarium should be maintained between +27 and +29 °C. Under the lamp, where heating occurs, the temperature ranges from +32 to +35 °C. Thus, a heating point and a cooler zone appear in the terrarium: the lizard independently chooses a favorable place for itself. To avoid decreases or increases in temperature necessary for the life of a chameleon, the lamps should be connected through a thermostat.

Do not place them low so that your pet does not get burned. Heating and lighting must be carried out within 12 hours; at night, provided that the temperature does not fall below +17 °C, there is no need for heating.

Preparing your place of residence

When choosing a habitat for a chameleon, you need to focus on the animal’s lifestyle (arboreal or terrestrial), as well as its age characteristics. In the wild, such a reptile most often prefers wooded areas and trees, less often it lives in not too deep earthen burrows.

Particular attention should be paid to preparing a place for keeping panther and Yemen chameleons, which are quite easy to care for, but are very large in size. In this case, a special house purchased at a pet supply store, or an old aquarium of sufficient volume may well serve as a home.

One of the most important conditions for a full life for a domestic lizard is ensuring air circulation . Stagnant moisture inside the terrarium provokes the development of parasitic bacteria, which have an extremely negative impact on the health and life expectancy of an exotic pet. Humidity levels should be approximately 60-80%.

This is interesting! In addition to simulating grass cover and natural hills made of wood, it is very important to maintain the ideal temperature in the terrarium: during the day at 28-33°C and about 23°C at night.

It is recommended to install a terrarium with scaly reptiles high enough, in the least crowded place, due to the increased susceptibility of chameleons to stress and loss of appetite. A heated area is provided inside the home of the heat-loving reptile. For this purpose, an incandescent lamp is built in, the power of which is approximately 40-60 watts. A good result is achieved by installing a special heated mat.

Description and photos of popular species

First of all, you need to know that there are about two hundred different species of these reptiles in the world, but, unfortunately, the vast majority of them feel comfortable only in natural habitats, and, therefore, are completely unsuitable for keeping as “pets.” .

There are only 3 main varieties of chameleons: Yemeni (also known as veiled or secretive), leopard (also known as panther or panther) and ordinary, for which it is quite possible to create tolerable conditions and provide the necessary care within the confines of one separate city apartment. Let's get to know each one better.

Yemeni

This is not the easiest possible option for breeding a domestic reptile, and its dimensions are impressive - males can reach 60 cm in length (females, however, are much smaller). But the external characteristics of this animal are simply fascinating: yellow spots and luxurious orange-brown transverse stripes along a bright green body, a long striped tail and - most importantly! - literally a royal crest on the head of a male.

Sometimes such a “crown” grows up to 8 cm in height. By this crest and small spurs on the hind legs, a “girl” can be easily distinguished from a “boy”.

By the way, it is believed that the brighter the color of the Yemeni chameleon, the better it feels: from melancholy and improper care, the animals turn pale and become even darker.

Under natural conditions, this reptile can be found in the valleys and on the shores of Yemen and Saudi Arabia. The Hawaiian Islands and American Florida also turned out to be suitable for them.

Important! Caught in the wild, such chameleons are unlikely to take root in your apartment: those individuals that are sold in pet stores are the result of long-term work aimed at “domesticating” the animal. They were born and raised in a terrarium, accustomed to artificial keeping and do not suffer from being in captivity.

The main thing to consider when choosing a Yemeni chameleon is the size of the terrarium (a reptile of more than half a meter must be able to move freely in it). Another nuance: males of this breed usually do not get along with each other and can, especially in confined spaces, cause serious injuries to each other.

On the other hand, when alone, animals also feel unhappy and lose their external attractiveness. Therefore, if you want to admire the Yemeni chameleon in all its glory, it is best to have one male and several females, which, given the size of one animal, is, of course, not suitable for every apartment.

Did you know? It is interesting that if the average life expectancy of men is statistically less than that of women, then for chameleons everything is exactly the opposite: the female of the Yemeni species lives one and a half to two times less than the male. It turns out that laying eggs is very exhausting for this animal.

The popularity of Yemeni chameleons is largely due to the fact that they reproduce much faster than their relatives. However, unfortunately, due to forced close relationships (it is quite difficult to obtain absolutely fresh blood far from the natural habitat of animals), the offspring are very often born defective and simply do not survive to adulthood.

But there is good news: such defects usually appear during the first 3 months of life. Therefore, if a lizard has outgrown this critical age, it has every chance of living to a happy old age (for males this is sometimes all 8 years of life).

Leopard

For beginners, this type of chameleon is more preferable . Firstly, they are less aggressive than the Yemeni ones, and, secondly, they are more resilient.

In size, these lizards are also not so impressive, although they cannot be called very small: males can easily grow up to half a meter in good conditions (females are smaller - their limit is 30–35 cm in length). However, for a domestic chameleon of this species, the usual size is considered to be approximately 25 cm; such lizards weigh a maximum of 180 g. The homeland of the leopard chameleon (if you hear the name “chameleon pardalis”, you should know that we are talking about a leopard or panther), as well as most other species this reptile is the island of Madagascar and some nearby islands of land in the Indian Ocean. The natural conditions for this lizard are a lot of moisture and warmth.

In terms of brightness of color, pardalis are not inferior to their Yemeni relatives, and in this case there are many different variations, depending on where exactly the animal lived.

If the Yemen chameleon is characterized by transverse stripes on the body, then in the leopard chameleon they are distributed along the body and can have a variety of shades (sometimes it is literally a riot of incredible colors). However, such brightness is characteristic exclusively of males; females differ little from each other and look rather faded.

Important! Chameleons that have not reached sexual maturity are dull gray in color; all their beauty begins to appear in the 10th month of life.

Pardalis is distinguished by its menacing-looking spikes that adorn its back from head to tail. Large scaly plates on the top of the head and on the sides visually make the animal larger and more massive.

Leopard chameleons live at home for about 4 years, and in the wild they rarely reach half this age.

Ordinary

This is the most accessible and understandable animal for us, since it is found, among other things, in Europe: Spain, Portugal, Sicily, Malta and Crete are the places where, if you look closely, you can see such a lizard on a tree branch.

In size and brightness of color, it is certainly inferior to its exotic relatives. So, in the wild, the maximum size of an ordinary chameleon does not exceed 30 cm, but in a terrarium they rarely grow more than 20 cm in length . As for color, like all chameleons, it can vary depending on the habitat, but usually it is yellowish, green or brownish-brown.

Spots on the body are not always present at all; sometimes the animal has a completely smooth and uniform color.

If you are not interested in such popular pets as cats, dogs, hamsters or guinea pigs, you may want to consider getting a reptile - an iguana, a leopard gecko or even a crocodile.

Housing for chameleons

Chameleons should not be kept in a glass terrarium or aquarium. They need ventilation, which the mesh provides. Fine metal or fiberglass mesh is not recommended, but PVC-coated hardware cloth will do.

Vertical space is important and the recommended cage size is 90cm by 60cm by 90-120cm high (the bigger and taller the better). Chameleons like to climb high off the ground so height is of utmost importance. An outdoor enclosure can be used in reasonably warm weather as long as overheating is prevented.

Cleanliness in the cage is vital to prevent the growth of bacteria or mold. Line the cage with paper towels or newspaper for easy cleanup, and then top with a mixture of reptile mud. Do not use wood chips or any other substrate that could be accidentally ingested and cause clogging.

Provide plenty of strong, non-toxic plants and branches. Ficus trees are often used in chameleon homes, but they require caution as their sap can be irritating.

You can try hibiscus and dracaena. Artificial plants and artificial vines can also be added. You should provide a variety of branches to choose from, making sure the cage has safe perches at different levels and temperatures that your chameleon can climb into.

Chameleon at home

L:.2 —> Exotic pets in city apartments are no longer such a rarity.
We wrote about Achatina snails and tarantula spiders, but the real exotic in the house is the “earth lion,” as the ancient Greeks called the chameleon. The animals received this nickname for their special headdress, whose folds resemble a crown. Even 20 centuries ago, this animal was a favorite of the Greeks and served as a kind of biological weapon against annoying insects. At that time, the contents of the chameleon were kept secret. Well, today we will reveal the secrets of communicating with a charming, but menacing-looking reptile.

Chameleons attract us, first of all, with their bright colors, which easily change to suit the environment, their funny tail, curled into a spiral, their curious way of moving, as well as their masterly use of a long tongue, thanks to which the pet is always full.

First contact with a person

When you first bring your reptile home, you need to disturb the animal as little as possible to reduce stress and allow the chameleon to adapt to its new location.

To make the chameleon get used to you faster, we recommend hand-feeding it at first. Sometimes you can take your pet out and hold it in your arms.

Gradually, the reptile will get used to you and will even crawl into your arms. There are also especially friendly individuals who spend a lot of time with a person and become strongly attached to him.

If the chameleon is outside the terrarium, you need to make sure that the room is clean and free of other animals and drafts. We do not recommend leaving the reptile outside its special habitat.

Nutrition

Nutrition. (general information)

All existing chameleons, from the largest, Melleri, to the smallest, Brookesia, which lives in fallen leaves, are predators.

The main food of all chameleons are all kinds of crawling and flying insects, as well as their larvae. Chameleons can potentially eat any non-venomous insects. These can be all kinds of beetles, spiders, flies, butterflies, dragonflies and many other insects. Surprisingly, from birth, chameleons are able to distinguish poisonous insects from edible ones. It is extremely rare for a chameleon to dare to taste a wasp or a bee. Such an animal will almost 100% be bitten on the tongue and will most likely die in agony, or will receive an unforgettable lesson for life. But, as practice shows, even hungry chameleons ignore such “food”.

Many large chameleon species also sometimes prey on small lizards (including their smaller relatives), rodents and even small birds. In fact, the object of their attention can be any “living creature” that they can catch with their tongue and swallow.

In addition to animal food, many species of chameleons eat all kinds of vegetation. Basically, these are not rough leaves of plants, fruits, berries and even tree bark.

For some species, for example the Yemen chameleon, the presence of plant food in the diet is mandatory! Babies, as a rule, begin to become interested in it by 2-3 months of age. Each chameleon will have its own taste preferences. But, in our opinion, most of all they like berries and fruits such as grapes, cherries, tangerines, and oranges. They also enjoy eating kiwis, persimmons, bananas, apples, lettuce, dandelion leaves, soft vegetables and much more.

It is worth offering fruits by cutting them into small pieces and securing them on the branches of plants. Alternatively, you can offer plant food from tweezers or from your hands. Feeding animals by hand is the easiest and fastest way to win over an animal!

In our practice, plant foods are consumed by such species as: Yemeni, Panther, Parsoni, Small. Most likely, all chameleons can consume certain types of vegetation to replenish moisture and vitamins.

Main types of animal feed.

The main and most “useful” from the point of view of the optimal ratio of protein, fats and carbohydrates is cricket. Reptile owners mainly use three types of crickets for feeding: Banana cricket ( Gryllus assimilis)

, Brownie (
Acheta domesticus)
, Two-spotted (
Grillus bimaculatus).
Each of these types has its own advantages and disadvantages.

For example, the most useful in terms of nutritional value is the House Cricket . Also, the House Cricket has the highest resistance to disease and does not require additional heating to maintain. The disadvantages of the house cricket include its extremely high “jumping ability” and the ability to take root and reproduce at home.

The largest, most prolific and fastest growing is the Two-spotted cricket. Its main disadvantage is the extremely loud “singing” of the males. The sound can be so loud that it will annoy you and even your neighbors at night. Also, this cricket is quite tough and biting. There are known cases of painful bites on the tongue with fatal consequences. Possibly due to painful shock. Also, the sharp wings of males pose a danger. They can injure the reptile's esophagus. Statistically, such cases are extremely rare and, in fact, can be classified as tragic accidents. The only thing is that you should not feed disproportionately large insects. The food should be noticeably smaller than the chameleon's head. To breed this type of cricket, high temperatures are required! Up to 33 degrees Celsius. Otherwise, insects will grow slowly, reproduce poorly and often get sick.

The banana cricket is considered optimal by most chameleon owners. It is quite large and soft. His singing usually does not cause any noticeable discomfort. Its disadvantages include: the need for heating for successful breeding, low disease resistance and strong cannibalism.

It is practically not inferior in nutritional value, and in some respects it is even superior to crickets and locusts. Two types of locusts are usually used as food: Migratory (Locusta migratoria) and Desert (Schistocerca gregaria). There is no fundamental difference between them. An adult locust grows several times larger than any cricket and usually one large insect is enough for even an adult chameleon to last the whole day. Raising locusts is not easy. Successful breeding requires large containers or terrariums in which the temperature must be maintained at about 35-40 degrees. Without high temperatures, successful breeding of locusts is impossible.

Various types of food cockroaches are very popular among chameleon breeders. These are mainly species such as: Turkmen (Shelfordellatartara); Marbled (Nauphoeta cinerea); American (Periplaneta americana); Argentine (Blaptica dubia) and some other types of non-hard cockroaches.

Cockroaches have lower nutritional value than crickets and locusts. This food is fattier and has a noticeably lower protein content. It is important to feed cockroaches a variety of protein foods and fresh fruits to increase their nutritional value.

The advantage of cockroaches is that they are very simple to keep and breed. Unlike crickets, cockroaches are omnivorous, less susceptible to disease, and have a significantly longer lifespan. Also, cockroaches are less susceptible to cannibalism. And for example, female marbled cockroaches even at first protect their offspring, covering tiny cockroaches with their bodies and driving away too annoying relatives. However, in case of hunger or lack of moisture, stronger individuals will begin to eat smaller or weaker relatives.

Most food cockroaches require a temperature in the range of 27-30 degrees for maintenance and successful breeding. A lower or higher temperature will cause insects to stop reproducing, begin to get sick, or even die. When keeping and breeding cockroaches, keep the humidity to a minimum. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the colony will become infected with mites, which will be extremely difficult to get rid of. In advanced cases, the only way is to destroy the entire colony and thoroughly disinfect it. More detailed information on the maintenance and breeding of feed insects can be found in the section “Encyclopedia of feed”.

Also, as feeding, in small quantities, chameleons are offered various insect larvae, such as: mealworm (Tenebrio molitor), zoobass (Zophobas morio), wax moth larva (Galleria mellonella). These types of feed have very high levels of fat and are not suitable for daily consumption. Their frequent consumption can lead to liver failure in the chameleon. The wax moth larva contains the highest level of fat. It should be remembered that all these larvae contain insufficient levels of protein and calcium for the main type of food. However, adding them to the diet in reasonable quantities has a positive effect on the health of pets. Plus, for some unknown reason, these foods are especially loved by chameleons. Feeding these larvae for several days can lead to the subsequent temporary refusal of animals from the main type of food. Offer such insects to chameleons as a “treat”, no more than 5-6 times a month.

Adults of various large species of chameleons, such as Yemen, Panther, Parsoni, etc., eat small rodents with great pleasure. Typically, chameleons are fed to newborn mice or rats. Feeding rodents should be no more than 1-2 times a month. This type of food in large quantities can also have an adverse effect on the chameleon's digestive system and liver.

In the summer, many chameleon owners feed their animals with insects caught in the fresh air. This food is the most useful, but, in turn, may contain parasites. For example, various helminths. As a rule, parasites do not cause significant harm to chameleons. However, they can still cause health problems in sick or weakened animals. The decision to use such food or not is made by each breeder for himself.

Juvenile chameleons are fed the same types of insects as adults, choosing food of the appropriate size.

Feed your animals as varied as possible. This is the key to proper nutrition and good health for your pet. The range of animal feed should consist of at least 2-3 types of insects. You should not overfeed chameleons, especially pregnant females. Do not limit feed only to rapidly growing young animals. Do not forget that in order for a chameleon to absorb a sufficient amount of calcium from food, systematic ultraviolet irradiation of the reptile is required. (more details in the section “lighting and heating”)

How to feed chameleons at home.

There are several simplest ways to feed chameleons. The most convenient option is to feed insects by offering them to the animal with tweezers or hands. Its main advantage is that you can always accurately control the reptile’s nutrition and know for sure whether everything is in order with its appetite. A decrease in appetite may be the first sign of possible health problems for the chameleon, or it may indicate that one of the key conditions of its maintenance has been violated. For example, the wrong temperature mode has been selected, or the measuring instruments provide incorrect information.

As a rule, all chameleons, with rare exceptions, willingly accept the food offered in this way. Of course, this can only happen if the animal completely trusts you and is not afraid of you. Typically, chameleons get used to humans within a few days. Chameleons bred from nature may take significantly longer to get used to humans.

The insect should be held with tweezers in such a way that the chameleon can easily remove the food without catching the tweezers themselves. Otherwise, there is a risk that the chameleon will swallow the tip of the tweezers along with the food, which can lead to breakage of the reptile’s teeth. Broken teeth do not grow back. Pet stores sell specialized tweezers with soft “pads” at the ends.

If the chameleon still “sticks” to the tweezers, do not pull your hand away under any circumstances. This can lead to injury or tearing of the tongue. Tongue injuries are one of the most common injuries suffered by chameleons. If the tongue is damaged, we strongly recommend contacting a professional herpetologist. In case of severe damage to the tongue, it should be removed. Chameleons with their tongues amputated usually continue to live without experiencing severe discomfort. The animal will take food from tweezers, grabbing it with its teeth.

An alternative way to feed your pet is to use a feeder to feed insects. The easiest way to make it is from any “food” plastic jar (yogurt, sour cream, etc.). The feeder should be securely attached to branches or snags, so that the animal can easily see the food in it and get close to it. The feeder should not be transparent.

Before placing insects in the feeder, they should be rolled in vitamins and calcium. Dead insects should be removed from the feeder. Chameleons will not react to dead insects. Some types of insects, such as the marbled cockroach, can move on smooth surfaces. To prevent this type of insect from escaping, coat the inside top of the feeder with Vaseline.

Also, many chameleon owners simply plant food insects in the terrarium. This method is bad because the insects, scattering around the terrarium, will hide in all sorts of cracks and technical holes in the terrarium, often becoming inaccessible to chameleons. Many of them will drown in waterfalls and drinking bowls, spoiling the water, and some will most likely leave the terrarium and scatter around the house. You should not feed insects caught in your apartment. They can become a source of parasites or cause poisoning of the chameleon. This is especially important if there are chemical insect traps installed around the house.

Vitamins and mineral supplements

It is no secret that insects living in natural conditions eat the most varied diet, which is why their “nutritional value” is significantly higher than that of food insects kept or bred at home. In this regard, insects offered to chameleons must be additionally enriched with vitamins and mineral supplements

The reptile vitamin and mineral supplement market is primarily dominated by two companies, Tetra and JBL. Both companies produce a full line of vitamins and nutritional supplements needed for all kinds of reptiles, including chameleons.

The Tetra line is represented by such products as: vitamin complex Reptolife, vitamin liquid con food supplement Reptocal.

The JBL line is represented by such drugs as: JBL TerraVIt (vitamin-mineral complex), JBL Terra Fluid (liquid vitamin complex), JBL MicroCalcium (calcium in an easily digestible form).

As a rule, the food is sprinkled with a powder made from a mixture of vitamins and calcium in the proportion of 3:1 (3 parts calcium, one part vitamins). For adult chameleons, the amount of vitamins can be slightly reduced. Most vitamins and calcium are required during active growth of reptiles. Please be careful, an overdose of vitamins is deadly. Cases of calcium overdose are unknown. The only thing is that it is possible to overdose on vitamin D3, which is often included in calcium nutritional supplements.

Drinking (general information)

In nature, chameleons most often replenish their moisture reserves by licking morning dew from the leaves of trees and shrubs, where they spend 99% of their lives. Natural dew, in its hardness, is close to distilled water and usually has neutral acidity (Ph). Accordingly, such water is ten times softer than tap water. Based on this, the use of water purified using reverse osmosis filters is completely justified. This water has a hardness similar to dew and does not contain harmful impurities, bacteria and viruses. It is important not to forget to change the filter cartridges according to the instructions.

You should not pay attention to such horror terms as “dead water”. Water is, first of all, a universal solvent that delivers nutrients to the cells of organisms through the blood. Chameleons get all the necessary microelements from their food.

From birth, we feed all our chameleons with water purified using a reverse osmosis filter.

You can also use water purified by conventional filters, such as “Jug”. In cases with such filters, you should be even more careful when changing cartridges, since after some time they become a “breeding ground” for bacteria and practically stop purifying the water. You can also feed chameleons with settled (2 days), melted and bottled water. Once a month, you can offer chameleons mineral water of low hardness. For example, such as Esentuki-4.

How to water chameleons at home.

Chameleons do not drink “stagnant” water and only a few will be able to find a saucer of water. In addition, in “stagnant” water, pathogenic bacteria quickly begin to multiply.

The easiest way to give a chameleon water is to install a miniature waterfall in the terrarium. With it, you will always be calm and confident that your pet will be provided with a sufficient amount of water. Basically, waterfalls from Exo-Terra (Germany) are presented on the market. Waterfalls are available in three sizes. (S./M./L.) Made from non-toxic and easy to clean plastic. The kit includes an electric pump. The waterfall needs to be disassembled and washed once a week. For additional disinfection, you can put a small silver object on the bottom. (ring, coin). In our practice, all chameleons, within a short time, found a waterfall and subsequently quenched their thirst with its help.

Also, a convenient and hygienic option for giving your pet water is to use a drip drinker. This type of drinker can be purchased at some pet stores. For example, high-quality drip drinkers for reptiles are produced by the German company Lucky Reptile. Also, you can make your own drinking bowl using a regular medical dropper. It’s easy to decorate a container with water, for example, to look like bamboo. The droplet falling speed is regulated using the dispenser included with the dropper. The tip of the dropper should be placed in a place that is easily accessible to the chameleon, and a small container should be placed below to collect the dripping water.

Also, many breeders water their chameleons using a small syringe. Some particularly shy chameleons may refuse to accept water this way. But, as a rule, any chameleon can be trained to drink from a syringe. This method is good because with its help you always offer your pet only clean and fresh water, and also, using this method, it is convenient to dose various liquid, vitamin and mineral supplements. For example, such as Reptoboost or Reptosol. (various preparations for reptiles, described in detail in the section “vitamins and mineral supplements”).

Please note that chameleons are extremely dependent on water and without harm to their health, they can remain without it for no more than three days. For example, without food, a healthy, well-fed chameleon can survive for more than a week.

The main signs of dehydration in chameleons are: sunken eyes; cheeks; sticky saliva. In case of pronounced dehydration, instead of water, you should use specialized drugs, such as Reptoboost, or in its absence, Regidron, sold in pharmacies.

If there are no objective reasons for your reptile to be dehydrated, we recommend that you immediately contact a professional herpetologist. If absolutely necessary, you should force the animal to drink. To do this, you need to pull the “hood” of the chameleon’s lower jaw and use a syringe to pour a small amount of water into the mouth. Do not add too much water, otherwise the animal will vomit later.

Forcibly watering and feeding chameleons should only be done as a last resort. Such actions result in severe stress for animals and can cause more harm than good.

Many types of chameleons happily drink freshly squeezed juices from a pipette (syringe). For example, grape or orange juice. It is strictly forbidden to offer juices from packages! They contain too much sugar and various “chemicals”.