NILPA aquarium tests. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate

Where to buy NILPA tests and the cost of NILPA aquarium tests

It so happened that I could not find cheap tests for aquarium water in Smolensk stores. Therefore, I had to use the services of an online store. Here I immediately recommend to you a cool online store (no one paid me for advertising) “Living Water”.

Three tests (for ammonia-ammonium, nitrite and nitrate) cost 957 Russian rubles in the store, but there is a 20% discount on the purchase of three tests. Thus, the tests cost me only 765 rubles (approximately 250 rubles for each type of test). Here is the link to the promotion and the online store https://vitawater.ru/shop/index.php?manufacturers_id=28.

By the way, delivery from St. Petersburg to Smolensk was absolutely free. I arranged delivery through Hermes pick-up points. I also received a discount card as a bonus for the promotion.

Ammonia-ammonium test NILPA (NH3/NH4)

The test is designed to determine the concentration of ammonia and ammonium ions in aquarium water.

As a result of the vital activity of fish and plants, the decomposition of food and plant residues, ammonia (NH3) and ammonium (NH4) are formed. Ammonia is highly soluble in water and is a very toxic substance that makes it impossible for fish to breathe. Most aquarium fish die at a concentration of 1 mg/l. Ammonium is less toxic, but also not safe.

The kit includes: three bottles of reagents, a 20 ml measuring cup with a lid, a color scale and instructions for use.

Number of measurements - 80 times.

Each bottle of the test has a volume of 15 ml. Shake the bottle before use. Then the measuring cup is rinsed in aquarium water three times. 10 ml of water from the aquarium is added to the bottle. Next, 4 drops of the reagent are added from each bottle in turn, after which the measuring cup is closed with a lid and the contents of the cup are shaken for 15 seconds.

To get the result you need to wait about five minutes. Yellow water in the measuring cup means there are no ammonium and ammonia ions in the aquarium water. Green water already indicates some concentration of ammonia and ammonium in the water. Concentration is determined by color scale.

Direct

Out of curiosity, I measured the concentration of ammonia in tap water. So here it is. In tap water, the ammonia concentration was somewhere around 2 mg/l versus 0 mg/l in aquarium water. so, if the filter works, then the water in the aquarium should, according to my observations, be cleaner than tap water.

Water test Sera NO3-Test 15 ml

The NO3 test is designed to determine nitrate levels in freshwater and saltwater environments in aquariums and garden ponds. Nitrates are the end product of nitrogen breakdown. A high concentration of nitrates (more than 50 mg/l) is detrimental not only to fish and plants, but to the flora of the aquarium, since nitrates promote the growth of various microscopic algae that cause water blooms.

Regular monitoring of nitrate levels using the NO3 test is necessary. High nitrate levels can be reduced by regularly changing the water in your aquarium. To simplify and speed up the process of reducing nitrate levels, it is recommended to use “Bio-Denitrator”.

Application: 1. Rinse the measuring cell with running water. 2. Rinse the measuring cuvette with the test water several times, and then thoroughly wipe the outer surface of the cuvette dry. 3. Fill the measuring cell with test water to the 20 ml mark. 4. Add six drops of reagent 1 and one spoon (included) of reagent 2. 5. Close the cuvette with a lid and shake it thoroughly for 15 seconds. 6. Open the lid of the cuvette and add 6 drops of reagent 3. Close the lid of the cuvette and shake thoroughly. 7. After five minutes, comparing the color of the liquid being tested with the color on the color scale attached to the Instructions, you will determine the level of nitrates in the water you are testing. To do this, you need to place the cuvette on a white field next to the color scale and look at it from above in daylight, avoiding direct sunlight. 8. If the color of the tested liquid is dark red, then the nitrate content is 40 mg/l or more. In this case, the measurement must be repeated by preparing a more diluted test solution. 9. To retest: rinse the measuring cell with running water; rinse the measuring cuvette with the water being tested several times, and then thoroughly wipe the outer surface of the cuvette dry; Fill the measuring cuvette with test water to the 10 ml mark; Fill the measuring cuvette with distilled water (or sera aqua-dest) to the 20 ml mark. Carry out the operations specified in paragraphs 4-6 of these instructions. Compare the color of the test liquid with the color on the color chart again. Remember that in this case the readings should be read according to the line (10+10 ml). 10. If after repeated testing the color of the liquid is dark red, then the nitrate content is 80 mg/l or more. In this case, it is necessary to continue measurements by changing the composition of the test solution from “5 ml - aquarium water + 5 ml distilled water” and then “2 ml + 18 ml” until the color of the test liquid changes. When taking measurements, you must read the results on the corresponding lines of the color scale. This way you can set the nitrate level to 400 mg/l. 7. After testing is completed, pour the contents of the cuvette into a trash bin and rinse the measuring cuvette with running water. Shake before use. After use, close the reagent bottles tightly. Contents: - bottle with reagent 1 with pipette (15 ml); - a bottle of reagent 3 with a pipette (15 ml); - bottle with reagent 2; — measuring cuvette (20 ml); — measuring spoon for the reagent; — color scale;

- instructions for use

Nitrite test NILPA (NO2)

The test is designed to determine the concentration of nitrite ions in aquarium water.

The toxicity of nitrite ions is very high. Most freshwater fish die when their concentration is more than 0.4 mg/l. Prolonged exposure of fish to water with a nitrite ion concentration of more than 0.1 mg/l can also be fatal.

The kit includes: a bottle with an indicator, a 20 ml measuring cup with a lid, a color scale and instructions for use.

The number of measurements is 100 times.

The 15 ml bottle of reagent must be shaken before use. Next, you need to rinse the measuring cup in aquarium water about three times. Add 5 ml of test water from the aquarium to the glass. Then you need to add three drops of the reagent, close the measuring cup and shake well. Next, you need to wait about five minutes, after which the test result will be visible.

Ideally, the water should remain clear. If the water is colored, it is bad, but not fatal. If you have just started your aquarium, this is how it should be. If the aquarium was launched more than a month ago, then measures should be taken. For example, siphon the soil, change the water, increase the power or number of internal filters, reduce the number of fish in the aquarium.

ATTENTION!

Do not forget that nitrites are the most dangerous for aquarium inhabitants. They shouldn't be in the water at all.

Nitrate test NILPA (NO3)

The test is designed to determine the concentration of nitrate ions in aquarium water.

As a result of the vital activity of fish and plants, the decomposition of food and plant residues, ammonia and ammonium ions are formed. Ammonium ions, oxidizing in water, turn into nitrite ions (NO2), and then into nitrate ions (NO3). The concentration of nitrate ions is higher in the so-called “old water”. In such cases, fish grow slower, reproduce more difficultly, and age faster.

The kit includes: a bottle with an indicator, a container with a powdery substance, a 20 ml measuring cup with a lid, a color scale, a spatula and instructions for use.

Number of measurements - 80 times.

The 15 ml bottle of reagent must be shaken before use. Next, you need to rinse the measuring cup in aquarium water about three times. Add 5 ml of test water from the aquarium to the glass. Next, you need to use a special spatula to add the powdery substance to the measuring cup, close the cup with a lid and shake for 15 seconds. Then you need to add seven drops from the reagent bottle, close the measuring cup and shake well.

Then you should wait about five minutes, after which the test result will be visible. The water should turn pink. Based on the color intensity, the nitrate concentration can be determined using a color scale. If the concentration is already 40 mg/l, then this is a signal that you need to change the water in the aquarium. Not entirely! About a quarter of the volume.

Tests for determining nitrates, or nitrate tests for an aquarium.

Learning how to determine the nitrate content in an aquarium will be useful for any aquarist. Data on the nitrate ion content in the water will help you decide how often the water needs to be changed, whether the aquarium is overcrowded, and whether more fish can be added there. However, aquarium nitrate tests are some of the most difficult to perform , and data on nitrate concentrations obtained using tests from different companies often differ. To learn how to accurately determine nitrate levels in your aquarium, check out this how-to guide to using aquarium nitrate tests.

Read straight away about which tests are best to use to determine nitrates in an aquarium>>>

Is it difficult to determine the nitrate content in aquarium water? No, it’s not difficult, but you need experience with nitrate tests. In fact, much of what we do in our lives without thinking and what seems completely elementary to us needs to be learned long and hard. In childhood, we are only busy with such studies. Already in adulthood, when faced with new technologies, devices, methods, we have to take up our studies again. Not everything can be mastered easily and simply. In this case, learning will be much more successful if we first see how others do what we are trying to learn. When you know what to expect, it is much easier to perceive new information and hone new skills. In order to help aquarists learn how to test for nitrates, this article was written. Despite the fact that manufacturers of aquarium nitrate tests have made considerable efforts to relieve the user of the need to master all the intricacies of qualitative and quantitative analysis, it is still necessary to acquire certain skills in order to confidently use their products. Things will go much easier if you first familiarize yourself with the pictures illustrating the results of testing water with pre-known concentrations of nitrate ions and comments on them. Probably, the test for determining nitrates in aquarium water is one of the most difficult. In order to learn how to obtain reliable results with its help, you need, as they say, to get good at performing some routine operations and train your eye to distinguish minor differences in shades of colors. At the same time, it doesn’t matter at all which company produced the test - everyone has their own nuances and difficulties. The main difficulty of the nitrate test is that, when checking with color samples, it is not easy to find differences in the color of samples with a nitrate content of 20-40 mg/l. But it is in this range that it is especially important for a novice aquarist to learn how to confidently navigate, since exceeding the threshold of 25-30 mg/l usually turns out to be critical and triggers the uncontrollable growth of algae. Three of the most well-known nitrate tests will be discussed in detail here: the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals nitrate test (Freshwater/Saltwater Nitrate Test Kit, which I will henceforth call the AP Nitrate-Test), the SERA Nitrat-Test, and the nitrate test. -test from the domestic manufacturer NILPA (NILPA nitrate test). Tests from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals are traditionally considered among advanced aquarists to be the most accurate and easy to use, “Serov’s” tests are the most widespread and can be found in almost any pet store, aquarium tests from NILPA compare favorably with others due to their low price. In this publication I will show in what range of nitrate concentrations and how the “Nilp” test works and what it shows. Let me compare these data with the readings of nitrate tests from well-known companies - giants in the aquarium industry. All the tests mentioned above are suitable for the determination of nitrates in both fresh and sea water. This article will focus only on testing fresh water; the features of these tests that must be taken into account when testing sea water will be discussed separately. I tested control solutions with a known concentration, prepared using distilled water and potassium nitrate.

Photo 1. Shows the results of testing a nitrate solution that is very strong by aquarium standards.
Although occasionally such concentrations can be found in aquariums. It goes without saying that keeping fish in such water is very far from the principles of humane aquarium keeping. What can you see in the picture (photo 1)? The test from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals did not work and showed a significantly lower result. The reason for the error is that I did not shake reagent No. 2 and then the test tube long enough, not believing the manufacturer’s persistent calls to take this shaking seriously: shake reagent No. 2 vigorously for at least 30 seconds. I thought that with such a high concentration of nitrates this test would work anyway, but I was wrong. A test with reagents from NILPA gave an abundant dark precipitate and the color turned out to be in no way comparable to what we see on the attached scale. Meanwhile, this is a typical and consistently reproducible result when testing high concentrations of nitrates using the NILPA nitrate test. The manufacturer himself does not write about this, but we will know and remember: at extremely high concentrations of nitrates (above 150 mg/l), the test from NILPA produces dark purple (up to eggplant), and sometimes brownish colors, and the solution itself test water and reagents turns out to be cloudy and soon forms a dark precipitate, which is more abundant the higher the concentration of nitrate ions. If you get this result, don’t think that the test doesn’t work. Everything is fine with the test, but in your aquarium the situation is extremely far from normal! Therefore, start regularly and every day to change 10-15% of the volume of water in the aquarium. Don't expect the situation to improve quickly. A doctor, looking at such an analysis, would say: “Yes, my friend, how neglected everything is!” And indeed, now no earlier than 2 weeks of daily changes, you can reduce the nitrate content in the aquarium to acceptable values (20-40 mg/l). The process of removing nitrates from the aquarium will be accelerated if, when downloading water from the aquarium, a “siphon” of the soil is carried out. It is important to remember that you cannot siphon all the soil at once. Mentally determine an area equal to approximately one-sixth the area of the bottom of the aquarium and siphon only here. Next time, tackle the next section.

Photo 2.

Photo 3. Another example of testing water with a high content of nitrates ( photos 2 and 3

). The most important thing in the result obtained is the sediment. When you see it, know that there is an extremely high amount of nitrates in the sample. The color of the liquid above the sediment, as noted above, is not particularly important. AP Nitrate-Test is off the charts. This time I gave the reagents a good shake and it worked: 160 mg/L and higher concentrations will look exactly like this.

Photo 4. 160 mg/l, as practice shows1), is not such an exotic concentration. In aquariums with large fish and without live plants, this is quite possible. New fish “do not go into such water” and die within a few days or almost immediately. And old-timers are sensitive about water changes, and if you change too much at one time, they will almost certainly get sick. In addition, these martyr fish practically cannot tolerate any medications. On this basis, the myth about the benefits of old water was born, when it is recommended not to change the water in the aquarium for years. The logic here is simple: “I didn’t change the water for so long and everything was fine, but when I started changing it, everything became bad. So there’s no need to change…” In fact, if you don’t change it, the fish will most likely get sick with hexamitosis and/or tuberculosis. The NILPA nitrate test gave a color quite close to 80 mg/l, but the sample turned out to be cloudy with a slight sediment, which indicates a much higher concentration than 80 mg/l. sera Nitrat-test went off scale. This is what should have happened if the sample was not diluted. There are four rows of numbers on the “Serov” scale. It is suggested that at high nitrate concentrations, the sample should be diluted with distilled water or water that does not contain nitrates. Depending on the proportion in which the dilution is performed, a series of numbers is selected from which the result is read. By the way, the cup in the “Serov” tests is very beautiful and convenient with contrasting marks clearly marked on it. Therefore, using a “Serov” glass it is easy to dilute the test water in the required proportions. Thus, the range of possible measurements using this test significantly expands. If you collect all 20 ml of aquarium water, then the measurement limit will be only 40 mg/l, but if you collect only 10 and add another 10 ml of distillate, then 80. So, diluting the test more and more (other options: 5 ml of aquarium water + 15 ml of distilled and 2 ml aquarium + 18 ml distilled), you can determine 400 mg/l.

Photo 5. I diluted the sample and got the correct result ( photo 5

).
In accordance with the breeding scheme, here you need to use the third row of numbers. It should be noted that often the aquarist does not have distilled water on hand, and water with a fairly high nitrate content (up to 45 mg/l) may come from the tap. How to prepare water for dilution? Boiling and filtering through activated carbon does not eliminate nitrates . You can buy drinking water in the store, which should not contain nitrates (not carbonated and with low mineralization - with a salt content of up to 1 g/l) and use this water to dilute the sample.

Photo 7. The AP test is supposed to be viewed from the side rather than from above. And, I must say, it’s much easier to distinguish shades of colors this way. I would like to suggest this seditious thing: the NILPA nitrate test, contrary to the instructions, should also be viewed from the side. As will be seen from the photos below, this is quite possible. Moreover, for many users, including me, it is easier to work with these tests. Therefore, in this article, the test results are shown both on the top and on the side. NILPA nitrate test has a standard scale only up to 80 mg/l. Therefore, the resulting sample color is not similar to the attached samples ( photo 7

). It is reddish-brownish, cloudy, with sediment at the bottom, which indicates a high concentration of nitrates (more than 80 mg/l)

Tests from SERA and AP showed the correct result. Moreover, if for the AP Nitrate-Test 160 mg/l is the limit of accurate measurements and based on this test we cannot conclude whether the sample contains exactly 160 mg/l or more, then with the help of the “Serov” test this can be done It would be possible to find out by diluting the sample even more. But is it really that important? After all, 160 mg/l can be considered an infinitely large value for an aquarium, and in this case you do not need to find out exactly how many nitrates are in the water, but simply start reducing them2).

Photo 8.

Photo 9. 80 mg/l - the Vietnamese fish loves this kind of water very much and it is completely useless to fight it in these conditions, and discus and many other fish die in it “at once”. The AP test is not designed to measure such high nitrate concentrations. It is clear that they are no longer 160 mg/l, but it’s hard to say exactly how much: either 40 or 80 mg/l, and perhaps even more ( photos 8 and 9

). The color sample corresponding to a nitrate concentration of 80 mg/l in the NILPA test often (and in this case too) does not exactly match the color of the test water that this test actually gives. Depending on the composition of the water, the sample acquires different shades: from rich dark cherry-red to brown-red. It is important that there is no sediment and the solution is transparent (the lines of instructions on the “Nilp” color scale can be seen through it), which means the concentration of nitrates is less than 100 mg/l and clearly more than 40 mg/l - that’s all that can be said. But in this range, the test is still more informative than the AP Nitrate-Test. The “Serov” test, when viewed from above (that’s exactly how it’s supposed to be viewed), gave a result close to the truth: something between 40 and 80 mg/l. But I had a distillate on hand to dilute the water sample, but a simple aquarist may not have it. Is it time for pet stores to start selling distilled water? It can be useful to an aquarist for a wide variety of purposes. For example, to check aquarium tests for the veracity of the readings (this will be discussed below).

Photo 10. Another example of the concentration of nitrate ions, which is inconvenient to measure with the AP test ( photo 10

). 50 mg/l is a fairly common concentration for hobby aquariums. The NILPA nitrate test shows 40 mg/l, which is very close to the truth, but using the AP test, the choice between concentrations of 40 and 80 mg/l is very difficult to make, but in practical terms there is still a difference between them, and a considerable one. If you need to start fighting decisively and immediately with 80 mg/l, then 40 mg/l is a completely tolerable concentration for the average aquarium with a picky population.

Photo 11.

Photo 12. Nitrate test from AR still shows either 40 or 80 mg/l ( photos 11 and 12

). NILPA worked correctly, and this is better seen when viewed from the side. From above it may seem that the test determined 80 mg/l, but we have already seen what color it actually produces, and we will not get confused. When examining the glass from the side, there is no doubt that we are dealing with a concentration of 40 mg/l. sera Nitrate-Test gives a result intermediate between 40 and 80 mg/l.

Photo 13.

Photo 14. 20 mg/l ( photos 13 and 14

).
Here it is - the pipe dream of many aquarists who cannot resist the temptation to buy more and more new fish. Nitrates in their aquariums are rapidly crossing this limit. Although the “herbalists” will say: “What’s wrong with that?” – we easily maintain 10 and even only 5 mg/l, otherwise we add nitrates on purpose. AP Nitrate-Test and NILPA Nitrate Test, no matter how you look at them, confidently show exactly 20, although in both cases some effort must be made to correctly match the color of the samples with color samples. If you still have doubts, then look again at what samples with a nitrate concentration of 40 mg/l look like, and you will stop doubting. It must be admitted that the test from NILPA is read with less stress than from the AP. But only when looking at it from the side. On top of 20 and 40 mg/l, it is very easy to confuse, especially if you are doing this test for the first time and do not know what a glass containing a sample with 40 mg/l nitrate ions looks like. The sera Nitrat-Test shows 30-40 rather than 20 mg/l. Photo 13
shows powder (reagent No. 2) floating on the surface, which can sometimes interfere noticeably.
I recommend that you better remember the color of the samples in photos 13 and 14
for those who like aquarium plants and do not like flip flops. Starting from this sample color and a more saturated one, the flip-flop can begin to grow quite noticeably. If you don’t want to admire it, then when testing water from an aquarium, the color of the sample should be the same as in the next photo or even paler.

Photo 15.

Photo 16. What a miracle: all three tests showed the same and correct result - 10 mg/l ( photos 15 and 16

). When taking readings, the least amount of effort is undoubtedly required when working with tests from AP and SERA. But the “Serov” test has a weak point: the results obtained are strongly dependent on the amount of reducing powder poured in (reagent No. 2), and it is not at all easy to accurately measure the required amount. Usually you add too much of this powder and get an inflated result. Therefore, when testing water with low nitrate levels, the AP Nitrate Test is most convenient. There is no bulk reagent, all reagents are droplets, and the droppers are simply ideal and you can use them without any strain. In this range of values, the color scale of the AP test gives very well-differentiated color samples, while the Nilp test in the low concentration range (from 20 mg/l and below) has essentially the same color - pink. When the concentration decreases, only its saturation changes (falls), and in order to immediately learn to evaluate the saturation of a color, training is needed. I repeat once again: when viewed from the side, it is much easier to calculate the correct result. When looking at a “Nilp” glass with a sample on top, one is tempted to inflate the readings by one step on the scale. Therefore, viewing the photographs given in this article will help you more accurately determine the result - they make it possible to compare colors at a previously known concentration of nitrates. Despite the fact that the color balance in these photos is not ideal, and in addition, a lot in the color perception of photos posted on the Internet depends on the settings and quality of the monitor, they still allow you to navigate quite well. I hope that my work will be useful for “hydrochemist” aquarists.

Photo 17.

Photo 18. 5 mg/l ( photos 17 and 18

).
The AR test confidently determined the given nitrate concentration. NILPA nitrate test too, but getting the correct result requires careful attention and it doesn’t matter whether it’s 5 or 10 mg/l, it’s quite easy to confuse. The sera Nitrate-Test gave a slightly higher result. I have already mentioned the reasons for this quite often resulting overestimation and will dwell on them in more detail at the end of the article. AP Nitrate-Test is unrivaled in this range. Although it also has its drawback - the need for prolonged shaking of the reagents. When testing water with a nitrate concentration of 2.5 mg/l ( photos 19 and 20
), I was a little lazy and ended up testing 0.

Photo 19.

Photo 20. AP Nitrate-Test shows the absence of nitrates, and sera Nitrate-Test gives something between 0 and 5, which is correct. It should be noted that I repeated the entire series of these experiments many times. In principle, the AP nitrate test normally detects a concentration of 2.5 mg/l. But you have to shake for a really long time. Below is an example of successful testing. The NILPA nitrate test gave a value less than 5 mg/l, which is correct.

Photo 21. One of the repeated experiments where the AP test worked ( photo 21

). Conclusion: this is a very good test, but when performing it, you need to shake the reagents for a long time, which is inconvenient if you need to take a lot of measurements. The “Nilpovsky” test for nitrates requires the least amount of labor.

Photo 22. Testing distilled water ( photo 22

). This is a check of the correctness of all the measurements made above. Well, sera Nitrate-Test and AP Nitrate-Test show 0, NILPA does not give a color sample for zero concentration, but here it is - slightly pinkish. At least a fresh test distinguishes pure distillate from water with a nitrate content of 2.5-5 mg/l.

What tests are best to use to determine nitrates in an aquarium?

Both the API nitrate test kit and the sera Nitrat test are, in fact, based on the same color samples and the colors of their solutions change in the same way as the nitrate concentration increases. The base color (at zero nitrate concentration) is yellow. This approach makes it possible to obtain very well-differentiated colors at low concentrations and eliminates the need to evaluate the saturation of lilac-pink colors (like NILPA), the perception of which is very dependent on the spectral characteristics of the light source and the training of the user’s eye. The negative side of this approach is the inconvenience of testing water with a nitrate concentration exceeding 25-30 mg/l. It’s very easy to confuse, for example, 40 and 80 mg/l. And with the help of the Nilp test you will always understand the difference between them. The ability to understand lilac-pink shades comes quite quickly: some people can do it right away, while others will need a little practice. The nitrate test from NILPA is the easiest to perform; it can be used to determine the nitrate content in aquarium water simply and quickly. The thoroughness and duration of mixing the reagents in the glass are not particularly important. It allows you to fairly accurately estimate the concentration of nitrate ions in the range from 5 to 80-100 mg/l. In addition, by the appearance of sediment in the sample, it can also be used to detect very high concentrations of nitrates (about 120-150 mg/l or more) in aquarium water. When testing with this test, it is better to compare the color of a water sample with color samples on a color scale not from above, as recommended by the manufacturer, but from the side, as shown in this article. When looking at a Nilp test from above, the true result is usually overestimated by one scale step. It should be noted that in the latest version of the nitrate test from NILPA, the jackal is already different. It is not round, but linear and it is easier to use; now, even when viewed from above, the color of the solution in the glass has become easier to compare with the color scale. The nitrate test from NILPA is more convenient than other tests in the most important range of nitrate ion concentrations for most beginning aquarists: 20-80 mg/l. This test can be recommended for novice aquarists and those “pros” who, due to the nature of their work, have to repeatedly perform express analysis of aquarium water every day.

Important features of tests for determining nitrates in an aquarium

The nitrate test from NILPA has an interesting feature. Powdered reagent ( photos 23 and 24

) is applied with obvious excess.
When you run out of liquid reagents, do not throw away the remaining powdered reagents. Just buy the Nilp test for nitrites. The reagents included in its composition completely replace liquid reagents in the NILPA nitrate test. With this replacement, the testing procedure specified in the instructions for the nitrate test does not change. On the other hand, the liquid reagents in the test for determining nitrates from NILPA are quite suitable for assessing the nitrite content in aquarium water. If you do not add reducing powder to the sample, but only add 5 drops of each liquid reagent, then in the presence of nitrites the sample will turn pink. 7 minutes after adding the second reagent, it is necessary to compare the color of the sample in the glass with the color scale of the nitrate test. In order to determine the nitrite content, you need to divide the value obtained on the nitrate test scale by 25. You will get an approximate, that is, approximately determined, concentration of nitrites in the water. But in general, it’s enough just to look at the color of the sample. If the color turns a clear pink, then there is too much nitrite in the water and there is a high risk of developing nitrite poisoning in the fish. It should be noted that nitrites in aquarium water greatly distort the results of nitrate determination. Be sure to read about it! This effect can be especially noticeable when testing the water of a recently launched aquarium, when there are still very few nitrates in it, and the nitrite content has reached its maximum (See the article “Nitrogen cycle in an aquarium.”). Therefore, when testing nitrates in a new aquarium, be sure to check the nitrite content as well . Nitrites are much more toxic than nitrates and having an idea of their concentration is very important. If you are working with a nitrate test from NILPA and you have a new aquarium, then first, using drop reagents alone without adding powder, estimate the nitrite content in the water, and then determine nitrates. It may well turn out that the main contribution to the coloring of the sample in the new aquarium will be made by nitrites, but there will be practically no nitrates in the water. In this case, take care to increase the volume of filter materials in the filter and/or introduce an effective bacterial starter (or, even better, sludge from a healthy aquarium). As a temporary measure, you can use this homemade filter. sera Nitrat-test – works in the widest possible range of nitrate ion concentrations: from 0 to 400 mg per l. However, in the range of 20-80 mg/l it slightly overestimates the results obtained. In addition, in order to carry out measurements with the sera Nitrat-test in the concentration range above 40 mg/l, the sample must be diluted, which can cause significant inconvenience to the user.

Photo 23

Photo 24. The accuracy of determining nitrate ions in water in the SERA and NILPA tests depends on the amount of powdered reagent, which must be accurately measured with special spoons ( photos 23 and 24

).
An overdose, which is extremely easy to do because the spoons are small, leads to a distorted result. Currently, the spoon is the least convenient in the “Serov” test; when working with it, as a rule, you pour in more powder than required, even if you try to do everything correctly. In the photo above, the “Serov” spoon scooped up a little more reagent than needed, the “Nilpov” spoon scooped up exactly as much as needed. The developers have improved its shape quite well, and now it scoops up the required amount of reagent. When measuring the powdered reagent, you need to press the spoon against the wall of the capsule so that it does not form a slide ( see photo 24
).

Finally, let's solve a practical problem. Here are the results of testing water from a real aquarium in which the fish were fed too generously. A fragment of this aquarium is shown on the screensaver for this article and in photo 25. It can be seen that the stones have not yet been overgrown with algae, but the old leaves are already covered with them. What are the test results, and is it necessary to change the water more often? Photo 25. An aquarium that hasn’t aged yet (it’s not even a month old), but algae has appeared on the leaves of the plants (Cyperus Helfer), click on the photo to see it.

Photo 25. The color of the sample obtained during testing is slightly darker than it is obtained at 20 mg/l (sample in the green frame) and lighter than at 40 mg/l (sample in the red frame). Therefore, the concentration of nitrates in a water sample from an aquarium is less than 40 mg/l, but it is more than 20 mg/l. The algae really has a chance... The water really needs to be changed more often. But nitrate tests are also needed to find out many other things, for example, is the aquarium overpopulated or not?

Buy tests for nitrates in an aquarium>>>

Notes. 1) Almost every day I test the aquarium water that aquarists bring for analysis and I know the situation firsthand. Back to text

2) You can reduce the nitrate content not only by regularly changing the water in the aquarium. You can also use such products as NITRA-ZORB (AP), TetraNitrate Minus (TETRA). But still, it is best to change the water, because not only nitrates, but also other harmful substances (for example, phosphates) have probably accumulated in the water, and together with fresh water you introduce new microelements into the aquarium that are necessary for plants and fish. Back to text

Test results in Aqua 60 liters

It so happened that I ordered the tests during the period when I had a slight breakdown of the internal filter of the Aquael FAN 1 Plus. Temporarily, in addition to the internal filter Aquael FAN 1 Plus, I installed an internal filter Aquael FAN micro plus in the aquarium.

And while my new internal filter Aquael Turbo-500 was arriving from St. Petersburg, these two filters worked for a week. When testing, the results were as follows: ammonia and ammonium - 0 mg/l, nitrite - 0 mg/l, nitrate - 10 mg/l. Everything is okay. It seems like there was no need to buy tests...

But! For three weeks now, my newly purchased internal filter Aquael Turbo-500 has been working in the aquarium and the situation now is this: ammonia - just over 0 mg/l, nitrite 0.1-0.2 mg/l, nitrate - almost 40 mg/l. That's it! And this despite the fact that the internal filter Aquael Turbo-500 has a compartment with a bioceramic filler in its design.

And also despite the fact that I began to siphon the soil, which I had never done before. One way or another, today I installed an additional internal filter Aquael FAN micro plus. I'll write about the results in a week. I myself am wondering if the internal filter of the Aquael Turbo-500 really works worse than the internal filter of the Aquael FAN 1 Plus??? What a paradox!

Measuring nitrates in an aquarium

ARTICLES December 16, 2021 In fact, much of what we do in our lives without thinking and what seems completely elementary to us requires long and hard study. In childhood, we are only busy with such studies. Already in adulthood, when faced with new technologies, devices, methods, we have to take up our studies again. Not everything can be mastered easily and simply. In this case, learning will be much more successful if we first see how others do what we are trying to learn. When you at least know what to expect, it is much easier to perceive new information and hone new skills. It’s a similar case with aquarium tests. Despite the fact that manufacturing companies have made considerable efforts to relieve the user of the need to master all the intricacies of qualitative and quantitative analysis, it is still necessary to acquire certain skills in order to confidently use their products. Things will go much easier if you first familiarize yourself with the pictures illustrating the results of testing water with pre-known concentrations of nitrate ions and comments on them. This article solves this problem. Probably, the test for determining nitrates in aquarium water is one of the most difficult. In order to learn how to obtain reliable results with its help, you need, as they say, to get good at performing some routine operations and train your eye to distinguish minor differences in shades of colors. At the same time, it doesn’t matter at all which company produced the test - everyone has their own nuances and difficulties. The main difficulty of the nitrate test is that, when checking with color samples, it is not easy to find differences in the color of samples with a nitrate content of 20-40 mg/l. But it is in this range that it is especially important for a novice aquarist to learn how to confidently navigate, since exceeding the threshold of 25-30 mg/l usually turns out to be critical and triggers the uncontrollable growth of algae. Three of the most well-known nitrate tests will be discussed in detail here: the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals nitrate test (Freshwater/Saltwater Nitrate Test Kit, which I will henceforth call the AP Nitrate-Test), the SERA Nitrat-Test, and the nitrate test. -test from the domestic manufacturer NILPA (NILPA nitrate test). Tests from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals are traditionally considered among advanced aquarists to be the most accurate and easy to use, “Serov’s” are the most widespread and can be found in almost any pet store, aquarium tests from NILPA are a relatively new product that is constantly being improved and compares favorably with others its low price. Not all Nilp tests were successful from the very beginning. In particular, the first versions of these products failed both the total hardness test and the nitrate test. Both tests have now been improved and work quite well. We will talk about the test for general hardness elsewhere, but here we will show in what range of nitrate concentrations and how the “Nilp” test works and what it shows. Let’s immediately compare these data with the readings of nitrate tests from well-known companies – giants in the aquarium industry. All tests mentioned above are suitable for the determination of nitrate ions in both fresh and sea water. This article will focus only on testing fresh water; the features of these tests that must be taken into account when testing sea water will be discussed separately.

Photo 1

I tested control solutions made with distilled water and potassium nitrate. In photo 1

shows the results of testing a nitrate solution that is very strong by aquarium standards. Although occasionally such concentrations can be found in aquariums. It goes without saying that keeping fish in such water is very far from the principles of humane aquarium keeping. What can you see in the picture? The test from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals did not work and showed a significantly lower result. The reason for the error is that I did not shake reagent No. 2 and then the test tube long enough, not believing the manufacturer’s insistent calls to take this shaking seriously: shake reagent No. 2 vigorously for at least 30 seconds, and shake the test tube itself with the test water after adding all reagents - at least a minute. I thought that with such a high concentration of nitrates this test would work anyway, but I was wrong. A test with reagents from NILPA gave an abundant dark precipitate and the color turned out to be in no way comparable to what we see on the attached scale. Meanwhile, this is a typical and consistently reproducible result when testing high concentrations of nitrates using the NILPA nitrate test. The manufacturer himself does not write about this, but we will know and remember: at high concentrations of nitrates (above 150 mg/l), the test from NILPA produces dark purple (up to eggplant), and sometimes brownish colors, and the solution itself is tested water and reagents it turns out cloudy and soon forms a dark precipitate, which is more abundant the higher the concentration of nitrate ions. If you get this result, don’t think that the test doesn’t work. Everything is fine with the test, but in your aquarium the situation is far from normal! Therefore, start regularly and every day to change 10-15% of the volume of water in the aquarium. Don't expect the situation to improve quickly. A doctor, looking at such an analysis, would say: “Yes, my friend, how neglected everything is!” And indeed, now no earlier than 2 weeks of daily changes, you can reduce the nitrate content in the aquarium to acceptable values (20-40 mg/l).

Photo 2

Photo 3

Another example of testing water with a high content of nitrates ( photos 2 and 3

Photo 4

160 mg/l ( photo 4

), unfortunately, not such an exotic concentration. In aquariums with large fish and without live plants, this is quite possible. New fish “do not go into such water” and die within a few days or almost immediately. And old-timers are sensitive about water changes, and if you change too much at one time, they will almost certainly get sick. In addition, these martyr fish practically cannot tolerate any medications. On this basis, the myth about the benefits of old water was born, when it is recommended not to change the water in the aquarium for years. The logic here is simple: “I didn’t change the water for so long and everything was fine, but when I started changing it, everything became bad. So there is no need to change...” The NILPA nitrate test gave a color quite close to 80 mg/l, but the sample turned out to be cloudy with a slight sediment, which indicates a much higher concentration than 80 mg/l. sera Nitrat-test went off scale. This is what should have happened if the sample was not diluted. There are four rows of numbers on the “Serov” scale. It is suggested that at high nitrate concentrations, the sample should be diluted with distilled water or water that does not contain nitrates. Depending on the proportion in which the dilution is performed, a series of numbers is selected from which the result is read. By the way, the cup in the “Serov” tests is very beautiful and convenient with contrasting marks clearly marked on it, which is why it compares favorably with the nondescript translucent “Nilp” one, the risks on which are very unclear. Therefore, using a “Serov” glass it is easy to dilute the test water in the required proportions. This significantly expands the range of possible measurements using this test. If you collect all 20 ml of aquarium water, then the measurement limit will be only 40 mg/l, but if you collect only 10 and add another 10 ml of distillate, then 80. So, diluting the test more and more (other options: 5 ml of aquarium water + 15 ml of distilled and 2 ml aquarium + 18 ml distilled), you can determine 400 mg/l.

Photo 5

I diluted the sample and got the correct result ( photo 5

). In accordance with the breeding scheme, here you need to use the third row of numbers. It should be noted that often the aquarist does not have distilled water on hand, and water with a fairly high nitrate content (up to 45 mg/l) may come from the tap. How to prepare water for dilution? Boiling and filtering through activated carbon does not eliminate nitrates. You can buy drinking water in the store, which should not contain nitrates (not carbonated and with low mineralization - with a salt content of up to 1 g/l) and use this water to dilute the sample.

Photo 6

The AP test is supposed to be viewed from the side, not the top. And, I must say, it’s much easier to distinguish shades of colors this way. I would like to suggest this seditious thing: NILPA nitrate test should also be viewed from the side ( photo 6
). As will be seen from the photos below, this is quite possible. Moreover, for many users, including me, it is easier to work with these tests. Therefore, in this article the test results are shown both on the top and on the side.

Photo 7

NILPA nitrate test has a standard scale only up to 80 mg/l. Therefore, the resulting sample color is not similar to the attached samples ( photo 7

). It is reddish-brownish, cloudy, with sediment at the bottom, which indicates a high concentration of nitrates (more than 80 mg/l). Tests from SERA and AP showed the correct result. Moreover, if for the AP Nitrate-Test 160 mg/l is the limit of accurate measurements and based on this test we cannot conclude whether the sample contains exactly 160 mg/l or more, then with the help of the “Serov” test this can be done It would be possible to find out by diluting the sample even more. But is it really that important? After all, 160 mg/l can be considered an infinitely large value for an aquarium, and in this case you do not need to find out exactly how many nitrates are in the water, but simply start reducing them.

Photo 8

Photo 9

80 mg/l – the Vietnamese fish loves this kind of water very much and it is completely useless to fight it in these conditions, and discus and many other fish die in it “at once”. The AP test is not designed to measure such high nitrate concentrations. It is clear that they are no longer 160 mg/l, but it’s hard to say exactly how much: either 40 or 80 mg/l, and perhaps even more ( photos 8 and 9
).

The color sample corresponding to a nitrate concentration of 80 mg/l in the NILPA test often (and in this case too) does not coincide with the color of the test water that this test gives. Depending on the composition of the water, the sample acquires different shades: from rich dark cherry-red to brown-red. It is important that there is no sediment and the solution is transparent (the lines of instructions on the “Nilp” color scale can be seen through it), which means the concentration of nitrates is less than 100 mg/l and clearly more than 40 mg/l - that’s all that can be said. But in this range, the test is still more informative than the AP Nitrate-Test. The “Serov” test, when viewed from above (that’s exactly how it’s supposed to be viewed), gave a result close to the truth: something between 40 and 80 mg/l. But I had a distillate on hand to dilute the water sample, but a simple aquarist may not have it. Is it time for pet stores to start selling distilled water? It can be useful to an aquarist for a wide variety of purposes. For example, to check aquarium tests for the veracity of the readings (this will be discussed below).

Photo 10

Another example of the concentration of nitrate ions, which is inconvenient to measure with the AP test ( photo 10

). 50 mg/l is a fairly common concentration for hobby aquariums. The NILPA nitrate test shows 40 mg/l, which is very close to the truth, but with the help of the AP test it is impossible to make a choice between concentrations of 40 and 80 mg/l, but in practical terms there is still a difference between them, and a considerable one. If you need to start fighting decisively with 80 mg/l, then 40 mg/l is a completely tolerable concentration for the average aquarium with a picky population.

Photo 11

Photo 12

The AR nitrate test still shows either 40 or 80 mg/l ( photos 11 and 12

Photo 13

Photo 14

20 mg/l ( photos 13 and 14

).
Here it is - the pipe dream of many aquarists who cannot resist the temptation to buy more and more new fish. Nitrates in their aquariums are rapidly crossing this limit. Although the “herbalists” will say: “What’s wrong with that?” – we can easily maintain 10 and even just 5 mg/l. AP Nitrate-Test and NILPA Nitrate Test, no matter how you look at them, confidently show exactly 20, although in both cases some effort must be made to correctly match the color of the samples with color samples. If you still have doubts, then look again at what samples with a nitrate concentration of 40 mg/l look like, and you will stop doubting. It must be admitted that the test from NILPA is read with less stress than from the AP. But only when looking at it from the side. On top of 20 and 40 mg/l, it is very easy to confuse, especially if you are doing this test for the first time and do not know what a glass containing a sample with 40 mg/l nitrate ions looks like. The sera Nitrat-Test shows 30-40 rather than 20 mg/l. Photo 13
shows undissolved powder (reagent No. 2) floating on the surface, which can sometimes interfere noticeably.
I recommend that you better remember the color of the samples in photos 13 and 14
for those who like aquarium plants and do not like flip flops. Starting from this sample color and a more saturated one, the flip-flop can begin to grow quite noticeably. If you don’t want to admire it, then when testing water from an aquarium, the color of the sample should be the same as in the next photo or even paler.

Photo 15

Photo 16

Great moment, all three tests showed the same and correct result - 10 mg/l ( photos 15 and 16

Photo 17

Photo 18

5 mg/l ( photos 17 and 18

).
The AR test confidently determined the given nitrate concentration. NILPA nitrate test too, but getting the correct result requires careful attention and it doesn’t matter whether it’s 5 or 10 mg/l, it’s quite easy to confuse. The sera Nitrate-Test gave a slightly higher result. I have already mentioned the reasons for this quite often resulting overestimation and will dwell on them in more detail at the end of the article. AP Nitrate-Test is unrivaled in this range. Although it also has its drawback - the need for prolonged shaking of the reagents and test tubes. When testing water with a nitrate concentration of 2.5 mg/l ( photos 19 and 20
), I was a little lazy and ended up testing 0.

Photo 19

Photo 20

The AP Nitrate-Test shows no nitrates, while the sera Nitrate-Test gives something between 0 and 5, which is correct. It should be noted that I repeated the entire series of these experiments many times. In principle, the AP nitrate test normally detects a concentration of 2.5 mg/l. But you have to shake for a really long time. Below is an example of successful testing. NILPA nitrate test gave a value less than 5 mg/l. The manufacturer of this test does not believe that it is suitable for determining such low concentrations, however, at least while the test is fresh, the NILPA nitrate test confidently shows that the concentration of nitrate ions in the sample is less than 5 mg/l.

Photo 21

One of the repeated experiments where the AP test worked ( photo 21

Photo 22

Testing distilled water ( photo 22

). This is a check of the correctness of all the measurements made above. Well, the SERA Nitrate-Test and AP Nitrate-Test show 0, NILPA does not provide a color sample for the zero concentration, but here it is in front of you. At least a fresh test distinguishes pure distillate from water with a nitrate content of 2.5-5 mg/l.

Conclusions drawn from the testing results and impressions obtained while using the tests:

The AP nitrate test is labor-intensive to perform (you must diligently and for a long time shake reagent No. 2 and the test tube after adding all the reagents to it, otherwise the results will be very seriously underestimated!), but it works very accurately in the range of nitrate ion concentrations from 0 to 20 mg/l.
It is this range that is most interesting for herbal aquarists and, accordingly, this test is for them. From my experience of communicating with herbalists, I can say that these people are the least inclined to rush somewhere, so spending an extra minute or two in front of their favorite aquarium, shaking test tubes and reagents, is not a problem for them. In my daily practice (when every minute counts) I prefer the NILPA nitrate test, which can be done literally on the run and between other things. Both the AP-nitrate test and the sera Nitrat-test, in fact, are based on the same color samples and the colors of their solutions change in the same way as the nitrate concentration increases. The base color (at zero nitrate concentration) is yellow. This approach makes it possible to obtain very well-differentiated colors at low concentrations and eliminates the need to evaluate the saturation of lilac-pink colors (like NILPA), the perception of which is very dependent on the spectral characteristics of the light source and the training of the user’s eye. The negative side of this approach is the inconvenience of testing water with a nitrate concentration exceeding 25-30 mg/l. It’s very easy to confuse, for example, 30 and 80 mg/l. And with the help of the Nilp test you will always understand the difference between them. The ability to understand lilac-pink shades comes quite quickly: some people can do it right away, while others will need a little practice. The nitrate test from NILPA is the easiest to perform; it can be used to determine the nitrate content in aquarium water simply and quickly. The thoroughness and duration of mixing the reagents in the glass are not particularly important. It allows you to fairly accurately estimate the concentration of nitrate ions in the range from 5 to 80-100 mg/l. In addition, by the appearance of sediment in the sample, it can also be used to detect very high concentrations of nitrates (about 120-150 mg/l or more) in aquarium water. When testing with this test, it is better to compare the color of a water sample with color samples on a color scale not from above, as recommended by the manufacturer, but from the side, as shown in this article. When looking at a Nilp test from above, the true result is usually overestimated by one scale step. The nitrate test from NILPA is more convenient than other tests in the most important range of nitrate ion concentrations for most beginning aquarists: 20-80 mg/l. This test can be recommended for novice aquarists and those “pros” who, due to the nature of their work, have to repeatedly perform express analysis of aquarium water every day. The NILPA nitrate test has another interesting feature. The powdered reagent ( photos 23 and 24
) is supplied in obvious excess. When you run out of liquid reagent, do not throw away the remaining powder. Just buy the Nilp test for nitrites. The reagent included in its composition completely replaces the liquid reagent in the NILPA nitrate test. It also needs to be added 7 drops, and readings taken after 7-8 minutes (and not after 5-7, as when using the “native” reagent). On the other hand, the liquid reagent in the nitrate test from NILPA is quite suitable for assessing the nitrite content in aquarium water. If you do not add a reducing agent powder to the sample, but only add 5 drops of a liquid reagent, then it will give a pink color to the solution if it contains 0.1 or more mg/l of nitrite ions. Only a slight pinking of the solution is acceptable (the same as was the case in our experiments with a nitrate content of 2.5 mg/l). If its color turns distinctly pink, then there is too much nitrite in the water and there is a high risk of developing nitrite poisoning in fish. A high nitrite content in aquarium water can significantly distort the results of nitrate determination. This effect can be especially noticeable when testing the water of a recently launched aquarium, when there are still very few nitrates in it, and the nitrite content has reached its maximum. Therefore, when testing nitrates in a new aquarium, be sure to check the nitrite content as well. Nitrites are much more toxic than nitrates and having an idea of their concentration is very important. If you are working with a nitrate test from NILPA and you have a new aquarium, then first, using only a drop reagent, evaluate the nitrite content in the water, and then determine nitrates. It may well turn out that the main contribution to the coloring of the sample in the new aquarium will be made by nitrites, but there will be practically no nitrates in the water. In this case, take care to increase the volume of filter materials in the filter and/or introduce an effective bacterial starter (or, even better, live water and sludge from a healthy aquarium). sera Nitrat-test – works in the widest possible range of nitrate ion concentrations: from 0 to 400 mg per l. However, in the range of 20-80 mg/l it easily overestimates the results obtained. In addition, in order to carry out measurements with the sera Nitrat-test in the concentration range above 40 mg/l, the sample must be diluted, which can cause significant inconvenience to the user.

Photo 23

Photo 24

The accuracy of determining nitrate ions in water in the SERA and NILPA tests is very dependent on the amount of powdered reagent, which must be accurately measured with special spoons ( photos 23 and 24

).
An overdose, which is extremely easy to do because the spoons are small, leads to an overestimation of the result. Currently, the spoon is the least convenient in the “Serov” test; when working with it, as a rule, you pour in more powder than required, even if you try to do everything correctly. In the photo above, the “Serov” spoon scooped up a little more reagent than needed, the “Nilpov” spoon scooped up exactly as much as needed. The developers have improved its shape quite well, and now it scoops up the required amount of reagent. When measuring the powdered reagent, you need to press the spoon against the wall of the capsule so that it does not form a slide ( see photo 24
).

Finally, let's solve a practical problem. Here are the results of testing water from an aquarium that has actually existed for almost six months. A fragment of the aquarium is shown on the splash screen for this article. It can be seen that the stones have not yet become overgrown with algae, but the old leaves are covered with them. What are the test results, and is it necessary to change the water more often?

Photo 25

The sample color obtained during testing ( photo 25

) is slightly darker than it is obtained at 20 mg/L (sample in the green frame) and lighter than at 40 mg/L (sample in the red frame). Therefore, the concentration of nitrates in a water sample from an aquarium is less than 40 mg/l, but it is greater than 20 mg/l. Algae really has a chance...

Editorial department of "Living Water".

No entries found.

Impressions from using NILPA aquarium tests

In terms of usability, NILPA tests are very good: the instructions are detailed, the cups are equipped with a scale of 4 divisions from 5 mg to 20 mg, the color scale is accurate. And if we take into account the low cost of tests from the Russian manufacturer, then I can definitely say that I am more than satisfied and recommend these tests to everyone.

Now I can’t even imagine how I managed without tests before. And, unfortunately or fortunately, I will never know what was in my aquarium with water parameters before.

Did you like the article? Not good? Then it is possible that you will write yours much better. Just follow the link Posting articles and read the rules for publishing articles on the MultiBlog67.RU website.