Brown deposits in the aquarium - diatoms

Brown algae belong to the group Diatomaceae or Diatoms. Although there is a species called “Brown algae” in the group of Diatoms, only marine plants are included there (for example, sea palm, kelp - sea kale). And when it comes to aquarium algae, brown is just a color. They are also called brown, red or yellow.

The Diatom trait is considered to be the ability to absorb and process any organic matter. This is why brown algae grows so rapidly in water. Most often, the main reason for the appearance of Diatoms is an excess of ammonia or nitrogenous compounds in the water, which are harmful to underwater inhabitants.

Brown algae is a problem that many aquarists have encountered, and not just beginners. The formation of diatoms in an aquarium indicates a violation of the biosystem of the tank with underwater inhabitants.

A brown coating suddenly appears in the aquarium and affects plants, stones and walls. If brown algae in an aquarium is not dealt with, then within a few days they infect the entire tank and lead to the death of vegetation. And it will take a couple of weeks or months to get rid of it. Therefore, it is better to know in advance about the reasons for the appearance and methods of combating brown algae in the aquarium.

What happens?

Black plaque: causes and how to remove

It can appear in the form of mucus when a plant rots or a fish dies and decomposes.
To get rid of black slime, you need to find and eliminate the source of the decomposition, as well as change the water in the aquarium. There is also an algae called Blackbeard. When they appear, they form a low bunch of dark threads. If Blackbeard is not detected immediately, it will spread throughout the aquarium very quickly. The danger of this algae is that it grows into the cells of the substrate, and does not simply attach to it.

Reasons for the appearance of black plaque:

• Excess waste in the aquarium (food residues, fish waste, dead plant particles);
• Overpopulation of the aquarium. The more inhabitants there are, the more organic waste is generated;
• Insufficient filtration or dirty filters;
• With strong aeration, particles of sludge from the bottom are transferred to the plants and walls of the aquarium. The same problem can arise when keeping burrowing fish (for example, catfish) that get their food in the ground.

How to get rid of it?

It is necessary to remove all affected parts from the aquarium. Decorations and equipment can be placed in a solution of Whiteness (1:20) for 10-15 minutes, then rinse thoroughly under running water. It is better to boil the soil and driftwood; At the initial stage of the appearance of black plaque, you can fight it on objects or plants without removing them from the aquarium

To do this, you need to take 5 ml of hydrogen peroxide into a syringe and spray it on the affected areas, after turning off the aeration system;

Attention! A high concentration of hydrogen peroxide is harmful to fish and thin-leaved plants, so you should not abuse this method

Specialized stores sell products to combat black plaque and black beard. This method is considered the fastest

The rules of use will depend on the composition of the drug.

Brown plaque

The reason for the appearance of brown plaque is an increased increase in the number of brown diatoms.
It often happens that a brown coating forms during the first time after starting a new aquarium. But after a couple of weeks, when biological equilibrium is established, the plaque disappears. In an old aquarium, a brown coating appears due to:

• insufficient lighting;
• overfeeding fish (uneaten leftovers are an excellent breeding ground for bacteria);
• excessive use of plant fertilizers;
• insufficient amount of vegetation in the aquarium.

To get rid of brown plaque, in addition to eliminating the above reasons, weekly water changes and soil cleaning will help.

White plaque

White plaque does not cause significant harm to the aquarium and is very easy to remove. Plaque forms in the form of shapeless lumps of mucus, which are colonies of bacteria. White plaque can be found on any part of the aquarium (on glass, stones, plant leaves, decorations, soil). The reason for its appearance is the remains of rotting food at the bottom of the aquarium.

How to clean white plaque?

• remove organic debris (fish waste, food debris and dead parts of plants);
• rinse the filters under running water without using detergents;
• avoid overfeeding fish and overpopulation;
• wait until the biological balance is restored and the plaque disappears.

Green plaque

Why does green plaque appear and what to do about it? It is important to know that green algae is part of the microflora of the aquarium. But the creation of certain conditions provokes an outbreak of their growth until plaque forms on glass, soil and plants, and the water itself acquires a green tint.

Causes of plaque formation:

• placing the aquarium in direct sunlight and keeping it at elevated temperatures;
• excessive feeding of fish;
• accumulation of organic debris.

How and with what to wash? To remove plaque, you need to transplant the fish into a temporary container, drain the water, clean the walls of the aquarium and decorative elements with a special scraper under running water and refill the aquarium.

Limescale

This type of deposit forms on the walls of the aquarium as the water evaporates.

Causes:

• use of hard water;
• lack of vegetation in the aquarium;
• absence of a filter or its poor quality;
• insufficient or irregular care.

The easiest way to remove limescale is mechanical cleaning using a special scraper (you can use the hard side of a kitchen sponge).

Important! Metal scrapers should not be used, because... at the same time, metal particles get into the water, which over time begin to rust and harm the fish

You can also easily scratch the walls.

Brown algae (brown coating) in the aquarium

Brown algae in an aquarium is a sign of the process of establishing biological balance. However, their rapid growth signals negative changes in the fish’s habitat.

The problem may arise due to a lack of higher plants, poor aeration and filtration, and the accumulation of uneaten food particles. If a brown coating appears on glass and aquatic plants, immediate action must be taken. Getting rid of diatoms is not difficult, but you need to know how to treat your aquarium.

Brown algae - what is it?

Brown algae are microorganisms that can exist either singly or in colonies. They are also called diatoms (that is, divided in two) algae. This name is given because the individual consists of two parts: the upper half of the shell - the epitheca, and the lower half - the hypotheca.

The pathogen reproduces by division. The mother gives part of her shell to her daughter. The second part of the shell is formed after a few hours.

Individuals are capable of forming colonies that look like brown bushes with tubular components. The bushes grow quickly, reaching a height of 20 cm. But more often they spread in width, forming a coating on plants and other captured surfaces.

Fighting methods

Algae in an aquarium.

To destroy a colony of algae that has settled on the leaves of underwater plants, glass or the bottom surface, you need to act radically:

1. Transfer the underwater inhabitants to another aquarium. Remove all plants.
2. Drain the water.
3. Remove the soil, rinse it with running water, boil it or keep it in the oven at a temperature of +250...+300°C.
4. Remove plaque and disinfect stones, driftwood and decorations.
5. Clean the inner walls with a scraper, disinfect with a solution of potassium permanganate and wash well.
6. Rinse the filter.
7. Restart the aquarium. Before planting plants in the ground, carefully inspect the leaves and shoots and remove infected parts.

To combat “blackbeard” and other types of algae, you can buy one of the special products:

• Algaecide Maksimov's Farm;
• Florastim-Algicide;
• AQUAYER Algaecide+CO₂;
• Algae Killer Professional;
• JBL Algol;
• Tetra AlgoStop Depot;
• TetraAqua AlguMin Plus;
• Fluval Edge Algae Clear.

The listed preparations contain special chemical compounds - algaecides. They destroy filamentous organisms in a short time, but do not disturb the ecological balance of the underwater world and do not have a negative impact on the inhabitants of the aquarium. By following the instructions on the packaging, you can completely clear the aquarium of algae in 2-14 days.

Compogon.

In order to further prevent the growth of compogon, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures:

1. Do weekly 10-25% water changes.
2. Promptly remove the remains of uneaten food, dead and rotting plant fragments.
3. Increase the power of aquarium lamps to 0.5-1 W per 1 liter of water.
4. Use fluorescent or LED lamps with a red spectrum for lighting. Turn them on every day for 8-12 hours.
5. Introduce snails and fish into the aquarium that feed on algae and organic remains (red horn coils, ancitrus, Siamese algae eaters, mollies, otocinclus).
6. Control the number of underwater inhabitants; if there is overpopulation, place several individuals in another aquarium.
7. At each feeding, follow the recommended portion size (it should be eaten by the fish within 5-10 minutes).
8. Monitor the chemical composition of the water, do not allow the level of phosphates and nitrates to exceed. To stabilize the indicators, apply Tetra EasyBalance or its analogues weekly.
9. Ensure regular saturation of the aquarium water with carbon dioxide. CO₂ activates the growth of higher plants, and they are natural antagonists of compsopogon and other algae.
10. Avoid strong undercurrents. Select a filter whose power matches the volume of your home pond. To distribute a powerful stream of water into several slowly flowing jets, use special flute attachments.

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It is useful to plant fast-growing varieties of plants in the aquarium: elodea, nayas, hygrophila, lemongrass, vallisneria, hornwort. Before purchasing, new specimens should be carefully inspected for contamination with black or brown algae. If you see thin threads on the surface of leaves and shoots, swaying at the slightest movement of water, it is better to refuse the purchase.

Sequence of actions in emergency cases

Finding the reason

The most important thing is to promptly determine the cause of the cloudiness. If the suspension is not dangerous, nothing can be done. If a violation of biological processes occurs in the aquarium, the inhabitants should be rescued and the water parameters should be changed. Having previously carried out tests and determined which indicators are violated and which substances have an increased concentration.

For this I use special drop-check tests. They are relatively expensive, but are highly accurate and help to find out in a timely manner what has happened to the chemical environment of the aquarium.

We are relocating residents

As mentioned above, it is advisable to carry out such a procedure as soon as possible. It is necessary to place all inhabitants in a tank with clean water: fish, arthropods, mollusks, plants, even sponges and corals, if any. Feeding the displaced is allowed only after a few days.

Processing the aquarium

Having completely removed the water, washed the decorations (moss must be removed especially carefully), objects and thrown away the soil, it is necessary to thoroughly disinfect the container itself with any powerful preparations.

Most often used:

• alcohol;
• bleach solution;
• formalin;
• boiling water;
• acetic acid.

Particular attention should be paid to working with hazardous reagents: formaldehyde and bleach. The aquarium must be rinsed after such treatment at least three times; even plants should not be added to the aquarium for a month. You should only start your pets when you are absolutely sure of the chemical purity of the container.

About algae

Filamentae are a collective group of lower plants from the department of Green algae (Chlorophyta). In terms of their external structure, they all resemble long thin threads, which can be light green, dark green, and sometimes almost black. The structure of the algae is soft and delicate, they can be easily rubbed with your fingers, and they retain their shape only in water - as soon as you take them out of the aquarium, the threads immediately sag.

The filament prefers highly lit areas and, under suitable conditions, can quickly spread throughout the entire aquarium. It attaches perfectly to any substrate: glass, soil, decorations and plants. The strong growth of filamentous algae poses a serious threat to higher plants. They envelop the plants so much that it becomes almost impossible to remove them. The plant stops receiving the necessary nutrients, experiences a lack of light, after which, at best, it stops growing, and at worst, it dies. Massive die-off of living plants can lead to the accumulation of excess amounts of organic matter, nitrates and phosphates in the aquarium, which will only aggravate problems with biological balance.

The most common types of filamentous algae found in aquariums are:

Rhizoclonium

The domain of Rhizoclonum is aquariums with broken launch technology. If the fish were planted before biological equilibrium was established, and, therefore, there are no colonies of beneficial bacteria in the aquarium that will process the waste products of the fish, there will be an increased concentration of ammonia, nitrite and phosphate, which will be an excellent help for rhizoclonium. The good news is that the algae will usually disappear on its own once the balance in the aquarium is finally established.

Spirogyra

Spirogyra is one of the most difficult algae to remove, even though it feels fragile to the touch. It is not easy to combat it; it becomes necessary to use algaecides. Mechanical collection, a slight decrease in illumination, increasing the temperature in the aquarium and introducing algae-eating fish also help well.

Spirogyra under a microscope

Edogonium

Appears in the form of a fluff on weakened plants. Usually its occurrence is associated with a low concentration of macroelements in the aquarium. After adding fertilizer for a week, this thread usually recedes. Algaecide preparations help well.

It is most often found in freshly started aquariums, as well as in forced herbalists during startup and after massive haircuts. If optimal conditions are created for the growth of living plants, it usually retreats on its own, unable to withstand competition with them.

Filamentous algae form dense clusters

Are these films dangerous?

There is no denying that the film covering the surface of the aquarium is unsightly. But you need to figure out what danger it poses.

A small amount of fat will not harm the fish. However, if it accumulates, the oily film covering the surface of the aquarium can suffocate the fish. Oxygen enters the water through the surface of the aquarium. And, of course, everyone knows that oxygen is very important - fish need it to breathe. A thick film can act as a barrier, preventing oxygen from entering the aquarium.

Even a tiny spot reduces the amount of oxygen entering the water. And in an overfilled tank, this can turn into a disaster. Especially considering that the film not only retains oxygen, but also retains carbon dioxide!

Given the risk to fish, there is no logical argument for not removing such stains from the aquarium.

Origin and symptoms

You can bring them into the aquarium along with new fish, on plants brought from the pet store. Any object that has been in contact with another aquarium may contain particles of these algae invisible to the eye. Under favorable conditions, they will begin to multiply quickly.

In the early stages, brown algae appears as a small light brown coating that appears on the walls of the aquarium and large decorations. While there are only a few of them, they can be easily erased by running a finger or a scraper across the glass.

The main sign of brown algae is that when they are wiped off objects, walls, and plant leaves, they begin to “dust,” that is, a cloud of dust appears in the water.

Then a brown coating gradually covers the walls of the aquarium, all the decor and plants in a continuous layer.

The algae grows so quickly that it immediately appears on new young leaves.

Aquarium plants covered with a layer of brown plaque begin to die, as they are deprived of the vital process of photosynthesis.

When neglected, visibility through the glass of the aquarium becomes very poor, and the plants and entire decor look as if they have been crushed by a layer of brown sand.

As layers of algae continue to grow, they become dark brown and then black. Such plaque is no longer easy to clean off the walls

It becomes a substrate for the development of algae, which is much more difficult to remove from the aquarium.

neglected state

How to know when it's time to clean your aquarium

Signs that an aquarist needs to urgently clean the aquarium and fight harmful algae are:

• Loss of water transparency - the liquid takes on a dirty green or brown tint.
• Decorative elements, pebbles, driftwood and plants are covered with a thin, marsh-colored film, which can be seen even on the ground.
• Large greenish spots are created on the glass of the tank. It should be noted that tiny spots on the walls are considered normal, but together with the above symptoms they are already a cause for concern.

Causes of black plaque and how to get rid of it

The main reason for the appearance of black spots is careless care and improper maintenance of the aquarium. Dirt accumulates on algae leaves and the surface of the soil. This disrupts the biocenosis, fish and plants weaken and begin to get sick. Substances appear in the water that are not used by planted plants, but are complete nutrition for single-celled protozoa. In such conditions they begin to actively grow.

The following actions can cause such an imbalance:

1. Excessive and frequent fertilizing. Aquarium plants do not have time to fully absorb all the substances. As a result, unicellular organisms receive nutrition. They begin to multiply and suppress the growth of other algae.
2. The lighting is too bright.
3. Overfeeding fish living in an aquarium. A large amount of waste products is formed and the nitrogen cycle of the reservoir cannot cope with the load. This leads to an outbreak of microscopic algae growth.
4. A small number of aquarium plants.
5. Poor maintenance, infrequent water changes and lack of filtration.

Most often, the leaves are covered with an algae called “blackbeard”. It can be especially difficult to get rid of. To do this, resort to the following measures:

Black beard on an aquatic plant.

1. Dim the lighting. To prevent “black beard” from starting up in the new tank, daylight hours are set to a minimum, and artificial lighting is the weakest. This will slow down the growth of other algae, but will help protect the pond from microscopic parasites.
2. Reducing the amount and frequency of fertilizing helps stop the growth of black plaque.
3. The fish are not given dry food during treatment. You can use frozen daphnia, washed live bloodworms or tubifex.

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Some fish help contain the reproduction of single-celled organisms. They happily eat these algae. Such aquarium inhabitants include swordtails, black mollies, and Siamese algae eaters. The latter are the most active in destroying black beard. However, for this it is necessary that the fish are hungry and have no food other than single-celled fish. In addition, algae eaters can destroy not only black plaque, but also leaves of other plants and mosses.

Plants can be cured of algae by using chemicals. To do this, you will need chlorine-containing bleach “Belizna”. It is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20. Not only seaweed, but also decorative stones, driftwood and other decorations are dipped into the resulting liquid. Plants and decorations are removed from the aquarium, immersed in the solution and left for 10-15 minutes. After this, they are thoroughly washed with running water.

This way you can try to cure not all plants:

1. Varieties with strong, fleshy leaves (ferns, anubias) are kept in bleach for 15 minutes.
2. More delicate species - cryptocorynes, bacopa - are omitted for no more than 3-4 minutes.
3. The method is not suitable for plants with a branched root system that goes deep into the soil.

Bleach is harmful to fish and should not be allowed into the tank. The decor and all plants are thoroughly washed after treatment.

In the same way, you can treat algae using a manganese solution. It should be a faint pink color. It is unacceptable to pour dry powder directly into water. Particles of potassium permanganate can cause leaf burns. First prepare a strong solution in a small container, and then pour it into the water for the plants.

Algae with deep branched roots are treated directly in the aquarium using hydrogen peroxide. To do this, turn off the aeration system and compressor. Draw 5 ml of medicine into a syringe and water the affected area. This method is effective in the initial stages of unicellular reproduction. Excess hydrogen peroxide is harmful to fish and plants with thin, delicate leaves such as Riccia.

Special chemicals are available to remove single-celled algae, such as Sidex from Johnson and Johnson. To completely get rid of black beard, it is necessary to use an integrated approach - a combination of chemicals and physical methods.

Sidex from unicellular algae.

Why does xenococus appear?

The causes of algae are varied. But most often, green dots are formed due to the fact that there is a decrease in the amount of phosphorus. Minimizing the amount of this substance leads to an increase in the volume of nitrates and a decrease in plant growth. All this provokes the formation of green dots. In order to compensate for the lack of useful microelements, phosphorus is introduced 30–45 days after planting shady plants and algae. In order to protect the fish, the amount of food that includes phosphorus is increased. We are fighting xenococus in other ways. In order not to encounter xenococus, you need to pay attention to the length of daylight hours. Most plants use solar, light energy for 8–10 hours. Single-celled organisms require light energy constantly, as it contributes to their more active development. Therefore, the intensity and duration of daylight must be controlled.

Fish eating algae

To control algae in an aquarium, you can (and even should) keep fish that include algae in their menu. These fish include:

Soma

Various catfish, especially Ancistrus. They can be easily identified by the presence of bushes in front of the males’ heads. They will gladly polish the glass and objects in the aquarium to remove algae, especially when they are hungry.

Otocinclus affinis/Otto-cat

Photo: Otocinclus affinis/Otto-cat

Ottozinc shown in the picture. This small catfish (there are several varieties) resembles a bulldozer, scraping leaves and glass 24 hours a day. It is best to keep several catfish in an aquarium. Unlike other fish, I have never seen them eat anything other than scraped from plants. I didn’t see much benefit from them, since they don’t want to eat hard algae. But there is no harm from them and a flock of such catfish looks quite funny.

Mollies

Mollies, when hungry, will clean the aquarium. The idea is not to feed them at all, otherwise they won't want to eat the algae.

Siamese algae eater/Crossocheilus Siamese/Siamese algae eater (SAE)

Photo: Siamese algae eater/Crossocheilus Siamese/Siamese algae eater (SAE)

Siamese algae eater eats black beard. This fish is shown in the picture. Unfortunately, several fish are often sold under this name.

In the Siamese algae eater, the black stripe GOES TO THE VERY END OF THE TAIL and has zigzag jagged edges, the belly is light and the back is brown, each scale has black edges. The fins are transparent. The fish has a poorly developed swim bladder, so it is in motion. She rests on the bottom or on the leaves in a position with her head raised, resting on her fins. The fish often chase each other, but they are not aggressive. When the fish is frightened, the stripe takes on a gray tint. The fish has a pair of small antennae.

Chinese algae eater/Gyrinocheilus aymonieri/Chinese algae eater

Photo: Chinese algae eater/Gyrinocheilus aymonieri/Chinese algae eater

The main external difference between this fish and the Siamese algae eater is the absence of a black stripe, the presence of brown or dark spots on the sides and a large sucker mouth. This fish is usually found near the bottom. The fish eats algae (it is noted that it eats green ones, but not blackbeard) when young. Adults prefer live and artificial food and are extremely aggressive towards other fish, often clinging to large and slow-swimming fish.

The main problem with fish that eat algae is that they quickly learn that the food falling from above is much tastier than the tough algae you try to feed them. From this moment on, the beneficial qualities of the algae eater sharply decline.

Description and features

Blackbeard, or scientifically - Compsopogon, refers to red algae that live in fresh water and includes several similar species. Their appearance in an aquarium is extremely undesirable.

Appearance

Algae are lower plants: they do not have roots, stems or leaves. Therefore, a black beard consists of a thallus - a special vegetative tissue formed by cylindrical cells.

At the moment of formation of bundles of compogon threads, it is visible to the naked eye. Ultimately, it forms a fluffy carpet of black-brown color with fibers up to 5-6 cm.

Why is it called that?

Compsopogon is known as black beard only in Russia. This popular name arose due to the appearance of the algae in the later stages of development. Densely covering plants, objects and surfaces, the algae resembles a beard.

Important! Beginning aquarists often call other types of algae blackbeard: purple algae, Vietnamese algae, antler algae, red algae. They are similar, but they need to be dealt with differently.

Signs of appearance in an aquarium

Harmful algae affects the entire aquarium: it grows on stones, decorations, plants, walls, equipment, and soil. The most “nutritious” for a black beard are filter elements and living vegetation. The leaves are grabbed from the edges, then the plants in the aquarium turn completely black, overgrown with villi.

First, single small bunches (up to 1 cm) appear. They can be in one place or in different parts of the tank. The algae attaches itself using rhizoids, which makes it very difficult to get rid of.

If measures are not taken in time, the compogon will turn into a solid carpet, and the aquarium will turn black.

What harm does it cause?

The fish will not suffer from black deposits in the aquarium, but the algae greatly harms living greenery. First of all, it “attacks” slow-growing algae, such as cryptocorynes, anubias, ferns, and moss.

Compsopogon covers the leaves of the plant and sticks rhizoids into it. Algae is not a parasite: it feeds on organic matter and through photosynthesis. However, it destroys the plant cells, which leads to its death.

A black beard in an aquarium completely ruins the aesthetic appearance. Compogon growths resemble mold or dirt, and the tank itself darkens.

Fighting methods

You need to start fighting Diatoms at the first signs of their appearance, otherwise getting rid of brown algae in the aquarium will be too painful later. Among the cleaning methods, the most effective are lighting, chemical, physical and biological methods and maintaining the cleanliness of the aquarium.

Maintaining optimal conditions

The correct daily routine, temperature and water parameters, and a balanced diet will provide protection from pests. But if algae does appear, proper care will also help remove them. In most cases, the cause of plaque is infrequent or poor-quality cleaning of the aquarium and changing the water. So now replace some of the water weekly, about 1/3 or 1/4. If the aquarium is heavily soiled, replacement is carried out more often. The water should remain clean and clear at all times.

The accumulation of organic matter is the main cause of red plaque, so adjust the feeding of the inhabitants. All food should be eaten within 15 minutes of immersion in water. If the fish leave some of the food, then cut down the portions and remove the excess food from the water. After all, food particles settle to the bottom, become clogged in the soil, and the process of rotting and decomposition begins.

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The number of pets also determines the rate of contamination of the aquarium with waste that feeds on algae. When there are a large number of fish, you should clean the water and siphon the soil more often than when keeping a small school.

Check the quality of your tap water. Sometimes it has a high phosphorus content, which also causes plaque to appear.

Lighting

The reason for the appearance of algae is also the lighting of the aquarium, too long or, conversely, short daylight hours. This increases the speed of chemical reactions in the aquarium and algae will begin to multiply quickly. Long daylight hours are especially dangerous in a young aquarium.

To get rid of plaque, reduce the length of daylight to 6 hours a day for 3 days. After this, return to normal daily routine by increasing lighting to 10 hours a day. Constant daylight hours will have a positive effect on the cleanliness of the aquarium and the health of the fish.

Do not use lamps that have expired or are nearing the end of their expiration date. But you can’t change all the lighting at once. Change each lamp every couple of weeks to give the occupants time to get used to it. A sudden change in lighting will cause a surge in algae proliferation.

Lamps not intended for aquarium lighting can also cause a brown coating on rocks and plants. With a power of about 1 W/liter they are suitable for illumination and disposal.

Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight sometimes also causes algae to develop intensively. It is advisable that bright sunlight does not illuminate the aquarium for more than a couple of hours a day.

Chemical methods

Use chemicals in the fight against algae as a last resort, when other methods have not helped, because any chemical intervention harms the fish and changes the biobalance in the aquarium. The following preparations are suitable for chemical cleansing:

• penicillin;
• bicillin-5;
• Algetten tablets.

These products quickly clean the aquarium, but the causes of algae are not removed, so after a while they may return.

Mechanical cleaning

Many young aquariums go through a phase of dealing with Diatoms. But a short time after the creation of microflora in the water, the algae disappear. In this case, you will only need to mechanically remove plaque from the walls of the aquarium. You don't need hard objects like brushes for this. Young algae can be easily removed even with your fingers, so wiping the surface with a cloth will be enough.

Remove plaque from plants with extreme caution. It can be removed with hands or soft tissues.

But don't use sponges or foam. With prolonged lesions, the leaves decompose and it becomes impossible to remove plaque from them. It is better to dig up such plants, and then either throw them away, or cut off the diseased leaves and leave the rhizome, replanting it in a separate tank.

It is easy to mechanically remove young plaque on soil and stones by siphoning the substrate or simply under running water. Aerating and filtering equipment must be cleaned of contaminants.

Biological control

Underwater animals and plants help get rid of algae. The diet of some fish and other inhabitants includes algae, and living plants improve the exchange of gases.

Species that can fight algae:

• shrimps;
• snails;
• algae eaters;
• soma otocinclus;
• shellfish;
• Gyrinoheilus catfish;
• Ancistrus.

Preventive measures

Prevention is always the best way to maintain a healthy aquarium. There are several rules and tips that will protect the aquarium from most Diatoms and other unpleasant microorganisms:

• If possible, purchase lamps with red spectral light.
• Maintain a constant water temperature.
• Replace part of the water volume weekly.
• Keep the aquarium clean.
• Equip the aquarium with filtration and aeration systems.
• Plant live plants.
• Monitor water parameters: hardness, acidity, amount of iodine, silicates, nitrates.
• Place objects made of zinc or copper metals at the bottom.
• Once every one to two months, carry out a general cleaning of the aquarium, removing and cleaning all decorative items and equipment.

By following the advice and maintaining the standard of living of your pets, it is not difficult to get rid of Diatoms, and after a couple of weeks your aquarium will be clean again.

Next

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Means for combating brown algae

Knowledge of the reasons for the formation of diatom colonies allows us to develop and implement measures to combat them.

In the classical scheme, all means are good:

• mechanical;
• physical;
• biological;
• chemical.

In practice, the following methods are used, containing a combination of all of the above.

First method

You should purchase special lighting lamps for the aquarium, several types of cultivated aquatic plants, and preparations for the destruction of brown algae and catfish.

Necessary:

• Plant fast-growing cultivated higher aquatic plants over the entire soil area. They will absorb excess organic matter and deprive brown algae of a nutrient medium for reproduction and growth. To speed up their development, you can use special air conditioners.
• To reduce the content of organic substances in water, it is necessary to change the feeding regime. The fish should be given food once a day or every other day and in half the amount. The indicator is the speed of eating - after two minutes there should be no food left. What continues to float on the surface will be surplus, serving as a breeding ground for the parasite.
• Some of the water in the aquarium must be constantly changed.
• For every 100 liters of water, 5 otocinclus should be placed. These catfish are excellent cleaners, actively eating diatom colonies.
• Treating aquarium surfaces with special chemicals can help fight the parasite. But these measures are temporary.
• Install lighting fixtures and select the most optimal lighting mode.

Second method

If brown algae forms in the winter, then most likely the problem is a lack of natural light. As soon as sunny days arrive, the parasite dies on its own. To resolve the issue, the following measures must be taken.

• Clean the walls of the aquarium using a scraper. Repeat it at least twice a week.
• Buy special fish that eat brown algae, for example, loricaria.
• Artificially lengthen daylight hours by including special lighting for a certain number of additional hours.

Third method

Sometimes the problem with algae growth goes so far that emergency measures have to be taken. In this case, they have already grown so much that violations of the regime are cyclical. The water is saturated with nitrates, micro- and macroelements, and pieces of organic matter. At the same time, overgrown plants block the light and create even greater conditions for the parasite to reproduce. In addition, gas exchange in the water system deteriorates, which causes the death of higher crops and, therefore, creates another breeding ground for diatom colonies.

In this case it is necessary:

• Optimize the reservoir. To do this, remove all old and affected plants.
• Purchase and install special filters with biofillers in the aquarium. They will catch all excess organic matter.
• Equip the reservoir with an aeration system, which will help cope with stagnation and improve gas exchange.
• If the entire bottom and plants are covered with brown mucus, then you can use Erythromycin. In addition, aquarium departments sell other special chemicals that can be used to combat the parasite in a set of measures, for example, Sidex.

Prevention

By following simple preventive measures, you can significantly reduce the risk of cloudy water.

Basic measures:

• Carefully care for the aquarium (siphon the soil, change the water correctly);
• arrange a quarantine for newly acquired pets before moving into a common aquarium;
• maintain biological balance (do not use chemicals and fertilizers unnecessarily);
• do not overfeed fish;
• replace fine sand with larger fractions if the turbidity is caused by mechanical reasons.

Often, the larger the aquarium, the easier it is to care for it, because in a large volume, like in a lake, biological balance occurs faster.

Care products

There are many useful and ecosystem-safe drugs that can quickly deal with turbidity. Conventional pharmaceutical medications also help combat discoloration of the liquid.

The most popular means:

1. Aquarium carbon (can be replaced with regular activated carbon).
2. Another popular adsorbent is zeolite, however, like coal, it cannot cope with nitrates and ionic solutes.
3. Tetra Crystal Water (Tetra Crystal Water) is a flocculant - a preparation that “collects” fine suspension and transforms it into large flakes that can be easily removed manually or using a filter.
4. Sera Aquaria Clear binds turbidity and acts biologically, so this product is safe even for marine aquariums.

Such drugs are indicated in many cases, but before using them it is better to consult with an experienced aquarist.

Biological balance is the key to purity

Achieving complete biological balance in an artificial reservoir is difficult, but possible. Normally, in a reservoir, like in a large natural lake, the cycle of substances must be observed. All dead remains must be broken down by beneficial bacteria and reduced to substances that can be consumed by plants, then produce energy through photosynthesis and again produce biological matter - most often starch and polysaccharides. Next, the fish eat plants, digest the organic matter of their relatives, if they are predators, build their body from amino acids, produce waste, and the process begins again.

Nitrifying bacteria are responsible for this balance. When they die, dangerous processes can move up the food chain: the death of one group of microorganisms can cause disease and death of fish. In nature, everything is harmonious, so the balance is established by itself, our task is just not to disturb it inadvertently or intentionally: do not use chemicals, chlorinated water, fertilizers and other artificial preparations.