Male and female guppy photo can be enlarged
Guppies are viviparous aquarium fish. Bright, beautiful, miniature, they are distinguished by their endurance and a wide range of conditions. And most importantly, the selection of guppies does not present any difficulties. They readily reproduce in captivity, without requiring special conditions. However, in order to seriously master the breeding of guppies, you need to have information about the characteristics of their reproduction and understand how to care for the fry.
When keeping guppies at home, their care may vary slightly depending on the type of fish.
For example, albino guppies require very careful attention to their maintenance, as they are very sensitive to the conditions in which they find themselves. Light-colored guppies are somewhat simpler in this regard, while the gray ones are the most picky. Guppies with short and forked fins are more adapted to various conditions than their relatives with large fins.
Over many years of breeding guppies at home, both the appearance of the fish, along with heredity, and the requirements for the conditions of their keeping have changed. Purebred domestic guppies have become very different from their ancestors and in some cases can be mistaken for completely different species of fish.
Where did the fish come from to our country?
Experienced aquarists know very well that the homeland of the guppy fish is South America. Here it inhabits not only fresh, but also brackish water bodies - rivers and lakes of Brazil, Trinidad, Barbados, Guiana and Venezuela.
However, quite quickly it spread throughout the world - Europeans quickly noticed that guppies happily eat the larvae of malaria mosquitoes. As a result, the fish appeared in warm reservoirs and even large fountains in many countries in Asia and Africa.
Not everyone knows that in our country guppies also live in the wild. For example, in Lyubertsy, where a large treatment plant is located that discharges warm water into the Moscow River, there lives a fairly large colony of guppies. In recent years, there have been reports of the discovery of similar populations in Yaroslavl, Nizhny Novgorod, Tver and Rybinsk. Most likely, they got into the rivers from aquariums, but did not die, as might be expected, but managed to survive and adapt.
And of course, guppies live in amateur and professional aquariums all over the world.
Best neighbors
Guppies are peaceful fish. They are not capable of harming anyone. But they themselves become victims of aggression quite often. Their long tails and fins can be annoying for many in the aquarium. Taking advantage of the fact that small and calm guppies are not able to give change, they simply bite them.
Large cichlids perceive guppies exclusively from a gastronomic point of view. Small fish often become their prey.
The best neighbors for guppies can be the same small, friendly creatures. This:
zebrafish
rasboras
mollies
neons
tetras
Guppies of different breeds get along well with each other. They do not notice differences and without any problems unite into one flock.
Such a family looks beautiful, but experienced aquarists advise avoiding such a union. Sooner or later, all individuals will begin to interbreed with each other. The offspring do not inherit breed qualities, and with each generation they will more and more resemble wild relatives.
Appearance description
Guppies have pronounced sexual dimorphism. That is, females differ significantly from males: they are larger, but at the same time they have a duller and more inconspicuous color. Most of them are gray, only a few breeds have black or not very bright green spots on the tail. But under good conditions, females can easily reach a decent size - 6-7 centimeters.
Males, thanks to many years of selection, delight the eye with a huge selection of colors, including black, yellow, red, green, orange, blue and all imaginable color combinations. True, they cannot boast of impressive sizes - most often they are limited to 3-4 centimeters. The shape of the caudal fin and size can vary significantly. There are breeds with a sword (upper and lower), two and even three! In nature, the tails are quite small and transparent, and the body has a very sparse range of colors.
Classification according to the shape of the tail and fins
Guppy breeds are also classified by the shape of their fins. Often the forms are similar to each other. There are 14 forms.
Spinetails
The guppy's "fan" is rounded, with "needles" in the center. The dorsal fin is raised and pointed at the end, its length occupies a third of the entire body.
Speartails
The tail resembles the point of a spear, less rounded than in spiny tails and with a smoother transition to pointed central rays. The length of the tail is equal to half the body. The plumage on the back is curved and pointed.
Triangel
Another name for the variety: clipped fantail. The triangular “fan” does not have such a strong swing as that of fan-tailed guppies. The corners are clear and sharp. The fin on the back is wide, raised, ending at the level of a third of the tail.
Round-tailed
The caudal fin is rounded and miniature, the dorsal fin is rounded and shortened. The size of the tail is no more than half the body of the fish.
Why create new breeds?
Before learning the basics of guppy selection, every aquarist must figure out why he is going to do this? After all, goals can be very different.
For some, this is a great way to demonstrate high skill - indeed, it is very difficult today to breed a new breed, and even a beautiful one. After all, hundreds and thousands of people around the world have been doing this for many decades.
Others believe that this is a great way to make money. Indeed, several years ago, Japanese breeders managed to breed guppies with a spot on their sides that replicates the Nike logo. A pair of these guppies costs about $200 - a pretty good deal!
Basics of genetics
First, it’s worth understanding: successful examples of guppy selection are the result of many years of work. It will not be possible to achieve any results quickly; at best, small successes will appear in a few years.
And here it is very important to have an understanding of the basics of genetics - primarily about dominant and recessive traits.
Let's start with the fact that gray is a dominant feature. It is most easily fixed and sometimes appears in the offspring of even purebred guppies with beautiful colors. There is nothing you can do about it - this color is natural for guppies. Therefore, such individuals (unless the goal is to breed a gray breed) should be discarded. This is worth remembering when selecting guppy colors.
The same can be said about the size of the fins. In nature, there are no fish with beautiful veiled tails - they simply would not survive due to their clumsiness and slowness. Relatives with small, light and maneuverable tails win the competition with them. Consequently, such representatives will not be the best choice for breeding new, beautiful and graceful breeds.
In general, the more unusual the color, the lower the likelihood that it will become established in the family line on its own. But, accordingly, its value increases sharply - such individuals may well become the beginning of a new breed.
Compatibility with other inhabitants
Guppies are unusually easy-going, so they can keep company with any aquarium animal of similar size and temperament. They do not offend other fish and snails, but they will happily eat shrimp. This is especially true for medium-sized cherry shrimp. Even if the adults manage to escape, the inexperienced babies will definitely end up with the predatory guppies for dinner.
But the fish themselves can suffer from the claws of cancer or the teeth of aggressive relatives. Sumatran barbs and angelfish will not miss the opportunity to chase the beautiful developing fins and tails of males. This game can even lead to death. Shark Baloo or pangasius, due to their large size, also will not make friends with guppies. They will mistake the latter and their offspring for food and eat them with pleasure.
Poeciliids, corydoras, sucker catfish, zebrafish, and neons will be good neighbors.
Choose neighbors for your guppies based on this table.
If, after reading the compatibility table, you decide to create a species aquarium, then I will give you a formula for calculating the volume of water for guppies. For example, you have a 30 liter aquarium, how many fish should you put there? First, let’s subtract from the total volume the soil, equipment and decor, which on average for this size of an aquarium will take from 5 to 10 liters. The edge of the water is 1-1.5 cm below the edge of the aquarium, this takes us about another 2-3 liters. Thus, we are no longer talking about 30, but about 20 liters. Based on the above table, one individual needs 2.5 liters of water 20/2.5=8. 8 guppies can be placed in a 30 liter aquarium. The ratio of male to female guppies is 2:1, so you need about 3 males and 5 females.
Preparation for selection
First of all, you need to decide exactly what the breed you would like to get should look like. Very often, a clear vision of the goal is the main factor of success. Still, starting to breed guppies using the selection method and hoping that success will come on its own is not the best strategy.
For example, if you want to breed a completely green guppy, then try to find a breed in which the males have a large number of green spots. And in order to get guppies with a huge tail, look for breeders (fish that will give birth) with a large tail of the desired shape.
Another important fact that should be remembered when breeding guppies at home: the female must be virgin. That is, she should never be fertilized.
The fact is that for viviparous guppies, one fertilization is enough for the female to give 4-6 offspring without the presence of a male. As a result, when a mature female, previously fertilized, is brought together with a male who has the parameters you need, there is a high probability that she will once again give birth to fry that are the children of her previous male. So the virginity of the female is a prerequisite for successful selection.
In addition, she must be old enough and strong enough. It is necessary to select healthy and large females several weeks old and place one or more individuals in a separate aquarium. When they reach the age of about 6 months, you can start working. In general, females can bear offspring as early as 4 months. But in six months she will be larger and healthier. This means that a larger number of healthy fry will be able to give birth without harm to themselves.
A little history of the discovery
The 19th century is the period of travelers. A huge number of foreign species of animals and plants arrived from the territories of the New World to Europe. Rigid classification has not yet been a well-established “horse”. The names of new species were given according to the external characteristics of the animals and the names of the naturalists who first presented them for review. Therefore, until a certain time, living organisms sometimes had 2-3 species names. The same thing happened with guppies.
In 1886, Robert Guppy (Guppy) provided several living specimens of a small tropical fish to scientists of the English Royal Society of Naturalists. The fish were brought from the island of Trinidad and, according to the speaker, were viviparous. Such a statement was ridiculed by learned minds. Imagine the surprise when Gappy’s words were confirmed. As a result, Albert Gunther, in honor of the naturalist, gave the fish the Latin name Girardinus guppyi.
However, after some time it turned out that the first description of the gupeshka was made several years earlier by another scientist. In 1859, German zoologist Wilhelm Peters described the fish from specimens preserved in alcohol brought from Venezuela. Peters saw an external resemblance to the already described representatives of the Poecilian family and gave the guppy its name - Poecilia reticulala.
In 1861, the Spaniard Filippi discovered “his” gupeshkas in a shipment of animals and plants from Barbados and described them as Lebistes poecilia.
How long would this confusion with names last, but in 1963, thanks to the work of D.E. Rosenoma and R.M. Bailey, according to the taxonomy of the Poecilian family, assigned the final species name Poecilia reticulate to the fish.
Creating suitable conditions
It is very important to create ideal conditions for producers. Still, the fate of the whole breed that you plan to breed depends on them.
It is not necessary to look for a large aquarium - 30-40 liters is enough for a couple of fish.
It is advisable to fill the bottom with coarse sand - of course, boiled and thoroughly washed. There should also be a large amount of algae in the aquarium. Good choices would be elodea, vallisneria and hornwort. The fact is that guppies are not the best parents. They may well feast on newborn fry, nullifying the many years of work of the aquarist.
The optimal water temperature in a spawning aquarium is from 24 to 26 degrees. Do not forget that the homeland of the guppy fish is tropical South America. They are not too fussy about the hardness and pH level of the water - tap water is suitable, which must be allowed to settle so that the chlorine evaporates.
Fry
Female before giving birth photo can be enlarged
How many fry a female can produce at one time depends on her size and development. On average, young fish bring 20-25 babies at a time, adults and large fish – up to one and a half hundred.
Guppy fry are born very tiny, often even difficult to see. Their translucent, grayish coloring, against which only their dark eyes stand out, also plays a big role in this. The cubs are actively growing, and after 30-40 days of life they begin to acquire “adult” coloring, and their sex begins to be determined. At the same time, it is worth transferring them from the spawning tank (if they were kept there) to a larger container.
Experts believe that food should be plentiful and around the clock. At first, it is recommended to give live dust, brine shrimp, rotifers, and microworms.
Babies do not require special care. It is very easy to determine what to feed guppy fry. The main thing to consider is the size of their mouth. The food should be small enough for the miniature fish to swallow it. You can use specialized food for juveniles or, in extreme cases, ground dry daphnia, gammarus, and cyclops.
Some experienced aquarists offer mashed boiled egg yolk and hard-boiled milk as food for the first time. Keep in mind that the remnants of such food must be immediately and very carefully removed from the aquarium - they instantly rot and the water can deteriorate. What to feed the guppy fry when they grow up is also easy to decide - the usual food that you use for all other fish.
Babies are transplanted into a community aquarium when they grow large enough not to be eaten.
Careful care
The producers need to be kept separate for some time. It is important to provide them with the best care. Change approximately one-fifth of the water in the aquarium every week. Aeration should be around the clock (but not too powerful) to ensure that oxygen starvation does not occur.
And the diet must be excellent - it is advisable to feed them only live food. Small brine shrimp and cyclops, tubifex, bloodworms - all this will allow you to achieve better results. With this feeding, the fish grow large and healthy.
But in extreme cases, a simple varied diet will also do: boiled egg yolk dissolved in water, chopped beef heart.
"Asian racks" for breeding guppies
Professional aquarist Alan S. Bias from Lewisburg (West Virginia, USA) talks about his many years of experience in organizing a farm for raising selective guppies. The reader is offered an approach according to which aquariums on racks are combined into a single system with recirculation and filtration at one point. First person narration. Translation - edition 12/10/2016.
I have been breeding guppies for 30 years, and during this time I have been lucky enough to own six fish farms. Five of them were located on my property, and one was in the back room of a large retail aquarium and fish store. All initiatives for the reproduction and cultivation of guppies were carried out in special premises. While in Europe it is common for breeders to separately heat and cover aquariums in dedicated rooms or stand-alone breeding racks, this practice is less common in America.
Traditionally, in the USA and Canada, rooms are fully heated in winter and maintain an average temperature of 21-27°
C. Although, in reality, the lower limit of temperature is usually in the region of 21-22
°
C, the upper limit is 26-27
°
C. To maintain such conditions for most of the year would require a constantly running dehumidifier in the workshop, set to the desired power . Unlike dehumidifiers produced decades ago, today's dehumidifiers produce enormous amounts of heat energy in the process of removing excess moisture from the air. During the spring, winter and autumn seasons, this is not so bad, since in this way you can maintain the temperature in the room at a level that has long been considered optimal for breeding guppies.
It seemed to me that in Montana the use of dehumidifiers is not as important as in the lowlands of Virginia or even the highlands of West Virginia. In the West, humidity levels have been 25-50% throughout the year, and this is not unusual. However, here, in the eastern regions, the humidity level in winter rarely drops below 50-60%, and in summer reaches 80-90%. Therefore, producing excess heat can worsen already unfavorable conditions. In both cases, I take a combination of turning on the fans and opening the doors slightly to allow excess heat to escape and reduce the seasonal amount of work the dehumidifiers do.
And here a dilemma arises. In our turbulent age of technology, for many, the costs and use of bulky specialized fish farming workshops have become a relic of the past. Even if the budget allows, difficulties in placing equipment and poor water quality can make it difficult to create and maintain a workshop. However, according to global statistics, recently interest in breeding guppies has not weakened and even increased. But is there a practical alternative to the methods described? I think yes.
Automatic fish farming systems on racks with single point filtration (courtesy of Derrick Tan)
For more than 10 years I have been using the self-sufficient Asian Shelving system, not only based on obvious efficiency, but also purely out of curiosity. Is it suitable for the average guppy breeder? In most cases, it includes both an automatic water renewal system and recirculation with a single sump filter (filtration at one point). In our region, where the success and value of broodstock and reproductive strategies are judged on a “bigger is better” basis, interest in these systems is limited. They are accused of being small in size and using recycled water. It is a very common belief among fish farmers that to obtain large numbers of guppies, large containers are required, and the recycling of water is a harbinger of disease outbreaks. Many are convinced that to prevent infection, mixing water between aquariums should be avoided; they should stand apart from each other, like separate mini-ecosystems.
Since I am interested in population genetics and breed guppies in natural conditions, I do not share the above opinion. Mother Nature provides moderate population growth based on food availability, predation levels, lifespan, and disease levels of individuals. In the guppy's habitat, it creates natural mechanisms for recycling water, through evaporation and renewal through soil filtration, as well as through precipitation. Often, in nature, the necessary filtration requires only a slight movement of water through rock and silt, which act as natural filters. While individuals kept in different bodies of water, separated by natural barriers such as waterfalls, or in residual bodies of water, may experience genetic isolation, the isolation is rarely complete. Practice shows that the secondary source of most diseases is a poor water environment. So why not create a similar environment within the framework of a project, in laboratory conditions, with all the necessary balanced components?
Data from various sources and my personal experience show that high incidence rates are due to poor water quality, difficulty maintaining optimal population densities, lack of ability to isolate sick individuals, and poor adaptation. Wild populations of guppies raised under normal reproductive conditions rarely encounter disease. They are less susceptible to viral diseases that can cause an epidemic among river guppies. Have you ever wondered why diseases such as ichthyophthyriasis, which often affects young guppies, are easily cured once detected? Why is it rare today? Because the source was wild animals. As a rule, ichthyophthyriosis was found in weakened individuals and did not cause an epidemic. When it is possible to eradicate a disease, it may be replaced by another, more serious one. This is observed when there are violations of reproduction or conditions of detention. Unfortunately, this is common in today's urban world.
Over the last century, unconventional breeding approaches, increased feeding to speed up growth, and overpopulation of the system have led to the spread of diseases that can affect entire communities of pet guppies. Similar phenomena are observed among all species grown commercially. Breeding fish in isolated tanks and artificially stimulating the growth of individuals has led to the emergence of breeds with a short life expectancy and low resistance to chemical influences. In addition, artificial breeding of guppies is often carried out without uniform quarantine protocols and procedures, unlike the breeding of large mammals. It is common practice to quarantine mammals for many years or for several generations before selling them abroad. Simply put, we have created favorable conditions for the penetration, spread and evolution of bacterial and viral infections among aquarium guppies. Therefore, it would not be surprising if, in addition to bacteria and viruses, some third factor of fish disease is added, for example, prion proteins that cause neurodegenerative abnormalities in humans and artiodactyl animals.
Structure of the installation and its application:
Guppy breeding plant with fully automated water renewal and one-stage filtration system
When choosing a setup, I was guided by my own interests, according to which I needed a compact and simple alternative to a large fish farm. The main selection criteria were stability and feasibility: on the one hand, I must maintain stable operation of the system, on the other, it must meet my capabilities and ability to maintain long-term operation. In one form or another, almost continuously, I have been breeding and raising guppies since I was 8 years old. This period of time does not include periods when I encountered difficulties associated with setting up the workshop and maintaining its operation. It’s not that there wasn’t enough space, I just needed to find a suitable place that could be equipped as a workshop: I needed a basement, a garage, additional storage space, a bathroom. The compact size of the shelving installation we are considering provides many opportunities for arranging the room.
I had to rack my brains quite a bit before I understood what was really needed, as well as how to stay on track while planning and setting up the workshop. So, we needed to choose:
- Sufficiently light and mobile aquariums and racks
- Compatible Components
- At least 50 aquariums
- The ability to maintain the desired temperature in aquariums without overheating the room
- Minimum light
- Good quality water
- Automatic water renewal system
- The maximum height of aquariums and shelving is 2 meters
- Aquarium volume 22-40 liters
- Drill side holes in each container
- Durable and thick glass ensuring transportability and reliability
- Top and bottom frames for easy transportation
Most of the systems - those I found on the Internet, or those recommended by my colleagues in the field of work, accommodate 4-5 rows of individual aquariums without frames, which are made to fit affordable mass-produced racks. I did the opposite - I made the racks myself, adjusting them to the existing aquariums. Thus, first it was necessary to select the right type of aquariums. Experience has shown that, despite not the lowest cost, large aquariums with partitions and a lid are convenient in terms of heating and maintaining the required temperature. This cannot be said about small aquariums of different sizes. Since glass does not retain heat well, the thicker it is, the better.
Automated system in an aquarium with partitions, side view
Having calculated the dimensions, volume and weight, I chose an aquarium with the following characteristics: 122/46/31 cm (length/width/height), 174.6 liters in two versions. These parameters allow you to use standard frames on top and bottom of each aquarium without additional adjustment. I believe that frames are essential to move the entire system safely.
Automated system in an aquarium with partitions, top view Compartment with dimensions 15/46/33 cm
It was assumed that the aquarium of the first type would be divided into 6 compartments of 28.32 liters each, and the second type - into 8 compartments of 21.24 liters each. The total weight of the aquarium with water is 226.8 kg - this is the limit I set. It immediately became clear that in order to accommodate the stated 50 aquariums and ensure the total weight of the system including racks was 680 kg, I had to build two identical installations. Each of them has two aquariums with 6 compartments and one with 8. I also considered using 152/46/33 cm aquariums, but the extra mass far outweighed the benefit of adding two compartments. From a practical point of view, the average person can lift and move an aquarium with dimensions of 122/46/31 cm, which cannot be said about an aquarium with dimensions of 152/46/33 cm. In addition, the length of 122 cm predetermined the choice of lighting, which I will talk about later.
Compartment size 20/46/33 cm
In all aquariums, the bottom and side glass are painted bright blue. Guppies love bright colors, and against this background their colors look expressive. Over the past 30 years, a considerable number of aerosol paints have appeared that are much more durable than any paint applied with a brush. They can withstand any conditions - heat, cold, humidity, dryness. Since aquariums are thoroughly cleaned and degreased before being sold, I do not find much difference in reliability between name brand products such as Krylon, Rust-Oleum or Valspar.
To maintain temperature and reduce humidity, each 122 cm aquarium is equipped with 24-inch glass hinged lids. Two miniature underwater heaters are installed in the central compartment of each aquarium. The sump heater will raise the temperature not only inside the sump itself, but also the temperature of the circulating water. By themselves, open aquariums are not the main source of humidity in a heated, enclosed workshop area. Mostly, excess moisture is created due to the accumulation of water during the foam filtration process in combination with heating.
Since I clearly lacked the professional experience for gluing aquariums and their lids, I decided to entrust this work to Glasscages.com, located in Dixon, Tennessee. Everything was done on time, no problems arose. I remember coming across an aquarium trailer on a cold winter's night with my wife on Lexington, Virginia. All six containers fit perfectly in the back of a pickup truck, and there was room for a few more.
Jumpers and fastenings of drain pipes
After researching the cost of drain jumpers, PVC drain pipes and fixtures, I came to the conclusion that ¾” pipes give more flexibility in ensuring optimal water flow. Also, it was more appropriate to use sliding fasteners rather than threaded ones. For example, an overhead jumper on the inlet hose for new modifications and on the outlet hose, which can be glued and thereby prevent leaks. They may occur not so much due to intensive use, but rather due to damage caused by transportation. Instead of hard PVC fasteners, I decided to use soft plastic fasteners and hoses to allow them to "breathe" during transport. One of the main tasks was to make the installation as transportable as possible. In addition, this would make the process of connecting/disconnecting pipes easier.
Rise pipe and jumper assembly
There is one ¾” jumper for each compartment in the aquarium, minimizing the need for drilling holes and using fasteners. To do this, I used a “head valve”, in the direction of which water flows from the entire system and which controls the movement of water to the filters or to the drain. In order to circulate and/or drain water from both the surfaces and the bottom layers of each of the aquariums, I adapted a homemade riser pipe. There is an inlet filter at the top of the pipe, and a connecting pipe at the bottom. Since there is only one jumper per compartment, this design allows you to create an additional outlet in case the drainage system is clogged.
Assembling the riser pipe
Having gained quite a bit of experience, I can say that you can simply hang up the hose and direct the water into the aquariums by hand, and use the quick connections I have installed to maintain the correct amount of water in each row. No matter how the drainage system is designed, it is always necessary to remove dirt from the bottom of aquariums. Although, if the system is really high-quality and well-functioning, this need can be minimized based on the feeding regime of the fish and their age.
For lighting, I use inexpensive 48-inch Lithonia T-8 fluorescent tubes. They are very compact and light in weight compared to the T-11. In terms of cost, both the lamps themselves and their installation are much less expensive than modern LEDs. Since the aquariums are also 48” long, I was able to ensure they were evenly lit. There is a large selection of lamps of various types on sale that have this length.
Fluorescent lamps T-8
Wooden retro shelving. Only the water renewal system is automated
The breeding process often becomes a mirror of the welfare of a fish farm in the eyes of visitors interested in genetics. Typically, I use shelving that is made from wood and coated with quality paint and polyurethane. This not only makes the racks more durable, but also makes them easier to clean. Leaving your shelving uncovered is like wearing an expensive, smart suit without cleaning your shoes. It doesn't take a lot of money or effort to paint or coat a shelving unit. Metal racks are too heavy and, without a rubber coating, are subject to corrosion. In addition, unevenness on the floor and the racks themselves make them unstable. In this regard, wooden shelving is the complete opposite, as it levels well and, if assembled correctly, lasts a very long time.
Fully automated installation with water renewal systems and filtration at one point
While I'm looking to build wood shelving for long-term use, for my less long-term projects I want to try out a pair of Edsal's mass-produced steel shelves. Each shelf is 152 cm long, 168 cm high and 46 cm wide. Each shelf cost $115 to ship from Home Depo. Aerosol rubber paint, coupled with black textured varnish, should protect the metal from moisture and electrolysis reactions, and therefore from rust. I installed one such rack with three aquariums as a test piece, with the other three aquariums mounted on retro wooden racks.
On working stationary racks, all systems are already installed and screwed. However, for a mobile installation, a different approach is used. I secured all the components with nylon straps that can be detached and packed away at any time.
I initially considered using Gray Schedule 40 PVC pipe for purely aesthetic reasons. While most of the custom components cost about the same as White Schedule pipe in the same range, if one decided to purchase parts specifically designed for this purpose, the total cost would almost double. In the end, I settled on the white version. Not so much because of the cost, but because of their availability. Almost any part can be found at your local retail building supply store. I would have to order gray pipes from a point located far from home. In general, you often have to change decisions on the fly, while waiting for the arrival of parts ordered via the Internet. In principle, the pipes could be painted. I preferred, let's say, two main sources - Global Industrial and Aquatic Breeder Suppliers. I won’t go into details, everything can be seen in the photographs.
Air pump Alita AL-80
When it comes to ventilation systems, you need to use the best air pump you can afford to ensure that repairs are as rare as possible. For the last 25 years I have been using a Rotron Blower to blow 100 holes. It is, of course, noisy, but if you place it in a secluded place or fence it off with a casing, while providing sound insulation, the noise will not stand out against the background sound of aquarium bubbles. I'll use it until I move, and then I'll install two brand new Alita AL-80 pumps. Comparing their cost, efficiency, noise characteristics and reliability, you will understand that this model has no equal.
DIY sump filtration system
On one of the racks I decided to test a fully automatic water renewal and filtration system at one point. Since I planned to use a metal rack, I decided to use it during the test. In addition to the single corner filters located in each of the aquariums, a filtration system was used that was installed on a separate rack adjacent to and connected to the rack with aquariums. A separate powerful Eheim heater was located in the sump. While the sump was in the bottom row, there was a 4-6 inch gap between it and the floor, which provided some insulation in the winter. In the middle row there was an additional settling tank (samp) without heating, mainly involved in the process of renewing evaporated water. The condensate returned through a ¾” jumper pipe coming out of the bottom and through a riser pipe with a check valve to the top pan. In turn, the “renewal” samp was used directly for breeding measles, plecostomus and shrimp.
Homemade installation for replacing water when filtering through a sump. The ultraviolet sterilizer is located at the back left
Separate rack with homemade single point filtration system and dehumidifier
Although I am not sure about the effectiveness of these tools when breeding guppies, I still decided to implement and test how ultraviolet sterilization works. I agree that in conditions of single-point filtration and water recirculation, this is a necessary element. After much wandering around the Internet, I decided to settle on a classic 15-watt black ultraviolet sterilizer with two-inch sliding mounts. It’s not that it’s better than similar models from other companies, but it still fits better into my piping system and is easier to turn off if necessary. Also, fewer problems arise when replacing lamps or mounts.
Technological redundancy in case of system failure is built into the entire system. A check valve located above the floor sump is capable of absorbing the entire volume of water in the pipes and the reserve sump. On the upper tier of the rack there is a dehumidifier connected to a drainage pipe for waste disposal. All water movement, including exchange, circulation and discharge, is controlled by a system of valves made of PVC. The water is driven by a single Quiet One 6000 pump, producing 1,506 gallons per hour. As a rough estimate, this is equivalent to more than 1,000 gallons per hour of power—enough to pump the total volume of water in aquarium racks.
Quiet 6000 pump placed in a homemade sump
New water comes through a “removable adapter” from a 65-gallon drum filled with warmed, settled water. The same pipe system is used as in drainage filtration. To ensure the water flow, I purchased inlet valves - a quick release (½") and a male valve (also ½") for each aquarium so that I could easily regulate the flow. I planned to use aquariums of different sizes on levels 3 and 4 and one water pump. Their PVC elbows or irrigation valves would not allow the flow to be adjusted so easily. Since all the pipes are glued to each other, I used connecting adapters so that if the system needs to be changed or transported, it can be quickly disassembled.
Filling valves and riser tubes with sleeves Finished distribution tubes
One of the excesses that I allowed myself was ready-made gas distribution pipes for each of the aquariums. With them, there was no need to drill holes yourself and insert tubes by hand. Because, with such a significant total length of the rows, this would require unreasonably great effort. I simply cut pieces from a PVC hose with a diameter of ¾ inches, which, if necessary, are easily connected using fittings used to connect irrigation hoses, and you can use either vinyl or PVC. Since PVC adheres well to the fittings, I did not use any glue at all when installing the air supply system. This facilitates the process of improving the system and its transportation.
conclusions:
Now let's go back to the beginning of the article. So, is the Asian rack system for fish farming with or without recirculating filtration a viable option for guppy breeders? Yes, according to certain and verified criteria, starting with the awareness and acceptance of the “duration factor”. Modern specialists involved in breeding guppies are in many ways similar to livestock breeders. And at the same time, they are very different from them. Until the last century, the process of raising livestock occurred slowly and was carried out on a generational scale, typically by families who grew up on farmland and rarely worked outside their farms. It took 5 years to raise an adult bull, and heifers were considered capable of reproduction at the age of 3 years. Today, bulls are considered adults from the age of 2 years, and heifers first have offspring at the age of 2 years. Sounds familiar, doesn't it? Indeed, breeding guppies for production purposes differs little from breeding exhibition selection guppies.
The history of breeding domestic guppies goes back just over 100 years. In cities, breeding is carried out by breeders who have left rural life for several generations. Many of them are not only little aware of the duration factor, but are also faced with the “shortness factor” imposed by the fast pace of city life. They are poorly familiar with the requirements of exhibition programs, computerization of the process, and do not even always know about the ability of guppies to reproduce several generations throughout the year. In order for the automatic recirculation system to work, guppy breeders must accept and adapt to the traditional "continuous" breeding regime that was popular among our predecessors.
Newly installed system. August 2013
So, are closed automatic aquarium setups, with or without recirculating filtration systems, suitable for guppy breeders? The answer is yes. Do such systems have advantages over huge industrial installations? Yes. Are there any restrictions for breeders regarding the use of these systems? Yes.
Obviously, the debate will continue between rack units with fully automated water renewal systems and systems that additionally use single point filtration. The advantages of a water renewal system are obvious. It allows you to easily replace waste water with fresh water, vary the percentage ratio between waste and fresh water, and maintain the optimal chemical composition and temperature of the water during the renewal process. At the same time, these indicators are too variable to fully confirm or refute the effectiveness of using single-point filtration in modern fish farming. Many breeders successfully use such systems, but there are no fewer who have abandoned them. From my point of view, they are good for working in certain conditions:
- In modern laboratory conditions, it is more effective to use compact installations than large ones.
- It is better to use several free-standing racks than a single rack of the same total size.
- Slow water cycling and filter sterilization are important factors for successful guppy breeding.
- The use of large installations with several ultraviolet sterilizers and a large volume of water passed through the system is the key to success.
- The number of containers and the overall population size must be considered in order to maintain a healthy and safe environment.
- You should refrain from introducing new individuals (purchased in stores or at exhibitions) that have not undergone the prescribed quarantine procedures.
Finally, I would like to add that I am not sure that single point filtration is suitable for guppy breeders who regularly hold fish shows and exchanges. Not all aquarists are able to maintain the desired balance during the breeding process. I have two reasons for this opinion:
1) I studied research data in the field of genetic potential of the population, which were published on open resources;
2) I am a supporter of improving the health of the population as a whole, and not of individuals. As a rule, modern guppies are not predisposed to any diseases at the community level.
To see the effects of living in recirculated water on your guppies, just visit your local pet store with an aquarium setup equipped with a single point filtration system. The goal of this approach is the mass reproduction of fish. Naturally, in such conditions there can be no question of any quarantine procedures. In this situation, viviparous species, in particular today's domestic aquarium guppies, take the first blow.
Despite all the efforts of members of aquarium clubs, it is very difficult to protect fish from infections during exhibitions. The situation is aggravated by the stress caused by constant movement, when the fish are on the road for 7-10 days. If you are planning to start breeding guppies, be prepared for this. Only strict quarantine measures, treatment, and long-term isolation of fish after exhibitions can eliminate or at least minimize the risk of infection. Therefore, the fish who took part in such an event. It is best not to place in recirculating systems.
So, I designed a rack aquarium system with an additional recirculating filtration unit. If at any point I find it useless, I can easily dismantle it and leave only the shelving system with the automatic water renewal system.
the July 2012 the IFGA Science Journal In it, he described his visit to Mike Regent in the early 70s. The author writes: “I spent a long time trying to find a term to describe Mike’s attitude towards breeding and caring for guppies, and the only word I found was “patient,” although to say that is an understatement. When he talked about fish, I got the impression that he had traveled all the seas and oceans. He has a clear opinion about how guppies should be bred and raised; at the same time, he welcomed any idea that might be useful and, it seemed to me, was never in a hurry. Most likely, this is where part of his secret lies. Also, I think, a “trained” eye, a certain amount of creativity and a well-trained adherence to the basic “canons” of raising guppies played a role. He used Lustar filters, which did not cause the water to bubble at the surface, but created a calm, moderate stream of bubbles, and the water in all aquariums was crystal clear.”
“In this context, “patience” means following the principle of duration.”
——
Based on materials from: swordtailguppies.blogspot.ru/2013/08/breeding-rack-systems-automation-for.html
Reproduction
A very important moment is the “meeting” of future manufacturers. They are placed in the same aquarium at the same time. In this case, the temperature should be exactly the same as in the aquariums where they lived before. And the composition of the water should not be different. It is advisable to equip a new habitat a week in advance so that the water settles, the algae saturate it with oxygen and simply make it “alive.”
The mating itself does not require the intervention of the aquarist. Usually, after a few hours, the male begins to dance around the female, getting in her way, bending his whole body. But to be sure, you need to leave them alone for several days or even weeks - until the female has a dark spot near the anal fin, indicating that fertilization was successful.
After this, the male can be removed, and the female can be provided with a good diet (without overfeeding!) and maximum peace.
Pregnancy period
A pregnant female guppy is very easy to distinguish from the general mass of fish by her appearance.
At the first stage, her belly is rounded and enlarged, in which eggs are formed and developed.
Over time, it becomes rectangular with a clearly defined black area at the bottom.
During this period, the head and abdomen are separated by a sharp drop, which is often called a “step.”
In the last days of pregnancy, the fish's anus swells, which is the main sign of impending labor (in one to two days).
The gestation period of a guppy lasts from thirty to forty-five days. The timing is influenced by the conditions of detention (water temperature, feeding, etc.) and the genetic characteristics of individual varieties.
The number of fry is affected by the age and size of the females:
- At the first birth from 10 to 30;
- During the second birth from 20 to 50;
- In the third and further from 20 to 100.
It is known that one female gave birth to more than one hundred and eighty fry. Although it is very difficult to accurately calculate how many fry a guppy gives birth to, since they can be eaten by the female immediately after childbirth or during it.
Care of juveniles
It is very important not to miss the moment of birth of the fry. They sink to the bottom, and after a few minutes they hide in thick algae, so as not to become dinner for their loving mother. As soon as she gives birth to all the fry (this number can vary greatly - from 50 to 200 individuals), she needs to be removed. Of course, not in a common aquarium, but in a separate one.
The fry are given the usual care - good aeration, regular cleaning of the aquarium and nutritious food. For starters, small brine shrimp are suitable, and gradually you can switch to chopped tubifex and bloodworms.
As soon as it becomes possible to distinguish males from females, they need to be separated by gender - otherwise it will not be possible to achieve a pure crossing of guppies.
Keep a close eye on females and especially males. Detect the presence of positive mutations. For example, the prevalence of the desired color or the appearance of the desired fin shape. The most successful individuals need to be seeded - they will become the foundation for a new breed. The rest can be transplanted into a community aquarium, given to friends, or even used as live food for predatory fish.
Nutrition
Gupes need to be fed 2 or 3 times a day, in small portions. All uneaten food remains must be removed from the aquarium. Otherwise, rotting products will poison the water. As mentioned above, in the natural environment, fish feed on insect larvae and themselves. Because of this, in aquarium life they are happy to feast on food rich in protein. They feast on live food with special pleasure. But you can’t call them picky; they eat what they give. For full growth and development, guppies are fed:
- Bloodworm,
- Koretroy,
- Pipe maker,
- Artemia,
- Spirulina,
- Chlorella,
- Ready-made dry mixes.
Guppies, like any other fish, need to have fasting days. Leave your pets without food once a week, this will improve their digestive system and clean the aquarium properly.
Securing the desired effect
Usually, in order to breed a fish that fully meets the set conditions, you have to change 3-6 generations. The more complex the initial task, the more time and effort you will have to spend to achieve it.
And finally, the long-awaited day has arrived! You have received the ideal male - exactly the one you have long dreamed of. But a positive mutation will not fix itself. This needs to be done artificially. Standard guppy breeding schemes provide for one of the most common options - mating a male with his daughter. Of course, she must be virgin, as mentioned above. In a good situation, most of the offspring will meet the required properties. But in some cases it is necessary to repeat the fixation procedure in several generations, each time selecting the most suitable individuals.
Establishment of parallel ancestral lines
Even novice aquarists know how destructive inbreeding is - the lack of fresh blood in one family branch. If you cross only closely related fish for ten generations, this will not lead to the appearance of the desired result, but to degradation and loss of the desired characteristics.
To prevent this from happening, it is advisable to lay down several generic branches at the same time. That is, you need several aquariums in which several pairs of producers will be crossed. Yes, this complicates the process and often lengthens it. But as a result, you will get not only beautiful, but also healthy, strong, viable fish. But this is the most important parameter for the breeder.
Most common mistakes
When talking about guppy selection for beginners, it is also worth mentioning several of the most common mistakes.
The first of these is the use of non-virgin females - the consequences of this have already been discussed above.
It is also very important not to mix several breeds - this rarely achieves the desired result. Most often, the positive characteristics of both breeds are lost.
Fish should not live in crowded conditions. This leads to a reduction in their size and a decrease in color contrast. But often it is the bright, rich and unusual color that is the main goal of the breeder.
