Creating comfortable living conditions for pet fish is sometimes a lot of work, especially if there is little money. Heating in the aquarium, proper food for aquatic inhabitants and uniform distribution of light are the three pillars on which the work of any aquarist rests. This requires money, time and in some places even talent.
Instead of buying a lamp, many people prefer high-quality homemade products, and instead of contacting specialized aquarium companies, do-it-yourself repairs. In this article we will tell you how to repair aquarium lights.
What types of work are there?
In general, aquarium repairs are divided into two types: repairs of the “mechanical” part and the electrical part. And additionally – modernization of the aquarium. The first type includes replacement or restoration of structural elements; for the second, restoration of wiring, switches, starters, lamps, lamp drivers, starters (for fluorescent lamps).
The most interesting thing for an aquarist is improving the characteristics of the aquarium. The main ways to improve the quality of life of fish and aquarium plants:
- increasing the number of lamps;
- installation of reflectors for uniform distribution of light flux;
- replacing lighting with LED analogues (now this is the highest quality lighting);
- recalculation of the required light parameters and then more accurate selection of lamps.
The most “regular” thing in the aquarium hobby is the routine cleaning of the deflector and the body itself.
Experienced people know that correct calculation of light and its correct installation (for example, installation of reflectors) helps in routine maintenance of the aquarium. If there is not enough light, plants and fish will die, and if there is too much light, the beautiful flora of the aquarium will turn into a mini-swamp.
If the lamp does not work
Very often, a lighting device stops working due to exposure to an aggressive environment, as a result of which the sockets in which the lamps are installed oxidize and fail. Or moisture may penetrate into the light source. Only a complete replacement of lighting equipment will help here. We release the lamps from the protective panel, if it is provided for in the design. We remove the lamps, dismantle the sockets, “biting off” the oxidized wires.
In place of the old ones, we install modern moisture-proof cartridges, the design of which does not allow moisture to penetrate the contacts and cause the lamps to burn out.
It is better to completely change the wiring too. Then we install the lamps in the niche of the lid, carefully seal all the holes, check and connect.
How to troubleshoot problems yourself
We will tell you how to repair an aquarium lighting.
The most popular design of lighting systems is inside the aquarium lid. It is also possible to install a pendant lamp without a cover, lighting inside the aquarium (usually at the bottom) with LED strips, as well as surrounding lighting from the outside at the bottom of the aquarium. For all types of damage, the breakdowns are generally the same, and the most difficult repair is the lamp in the aquarium lid. We will consider it.
We will need:
- knife (can be a stationery knife);
- pliers or side cutters;
- multimeter;
- screwdriver(s) to the diameter of the threads of the cover bolts;
- soldering iron (we recommend pulse) with a soldering kit;
- sealant or special glue;
- heat shrink tube (however, you can use electrical tape);
- spare wires;
Let's disassemble the lamp. After this, you need to check the functionality of the electrical part. The integrity of the electrical circuit is checked as follows: put the multimeter in the “ringing” mode, ring the two terminals of the lamp. If the circuit is intact, then it will signal. In this case, the problem is not in the lamp itself, but in the control equipment.
Do not forget to turn off the power supply during repairs.
The most popular types of lamps are those with fluorescent lamps and light-emitting diodes (LED lamps). The first type is disappearing from use by modern aquarists, but many still use the outdated system, so first we will consider the breakdown of the control equipment of the fluorescent system.
If the aquarium lid is damaged
An equally common problem for all aquarists is damage to the lid. This is a fairly expensive part that you need to order and wait a long time for. Therefore, it is always easier to use such a service from Aqualights as repairing aquarium covers.
. The most common problems include:
- chips that spoil the appearance of the aquarium;
- cracks in the lid - dust and debris can get into the water through them;
- damage to internal fasteners on which lighting and related equipment is located.
The company's specialists carry out prompt repairs of aquarium covers of any complexity. For this, modern materials are used that are safe for both humans and fish or plants in the aquarium.
How much does it cost to repair a lamp?
When choosing a lamp, we recommend not to save money. Chinese or simply cheap analogues not only last less, but also often do not provide the characteristics stated on the packaging. It is also best to choose components from well-known manufacturers, for example, Juwel, Biodesign, Aquael. They break less often and emit high-quality light.
Repair of lamps of these brands costs around 1,500-2,000 rubles in Moscow, and 1,000 rubles in remote regions. However, these are minimum prices. Therefore, it is best to make the lamp yourself, with LEDs, and carry out repairs without calling specialists. You can find a lot of information about this on the Internet. The main thing is to learn not from one source, but to study several articles and/or video instructions.
Own spare parts warehouse
We repair faster and cheaper thanks to our own warehouse. Cheaper because We deliver it ourselves without intermediaries. Faster because you don't have to wait weeks for parts.
The AQUAMED company provides high-quality and professional repairs at the highest level. Still have questions? Contact telephone number Workshop address: Moscow 14 KM MKAD UTK Sadovod (Lublino metro station) Line 13 pavilion OTP number 6
Conversion to T8 lamps
The correct selection of lighting for the aquarium is of great importance. Various types of energy-saving lamps are used to illuminate home ponds. Fluorescent lamps are very widely used to illuminate tanks with fish. Consider a T8 lamp. Its advantages:
- long operating time, more than 10,000 hours;
- low heating of the incandescent element, which does not allow harmful bacteria to develop and algae to rot;
- gradual failure, which allows you to replace the lamp in time.
Minuses:
- inability to set the brightness control;
- negative effects of ultraviolet radiation on some species of fish and plants;
- impossibility of switching on without additional starting equipment (starter).
First, to replace the backlight with T8 lamps, you will need to open the cover and remove the previous equipment. If the lid does not have a removable panel, then use a ruler to make marks and use a utility knife to carefully cut holes in the shape of a rectangle.
Types of lamps
Aquarium lighting can be made with any type of lamp. Anyone at all. But its effectiveness, the appearance of plants and fish, and the amount of energy spent will be very different. Let us evaluate all types of lamps from these positions.
Incandescent and halogen lamps
They are combined into one category because they have similar advantages and disadvantages. Incandescent lamps are good for aquariums because they emit light, the spectrum of which is very similar to sunlight. The second big plus is the affordable price. But the disadvantages are very serious. This is a low efficiency - about 97% of the energy is spent on heat generation and only 3% directly on the emission of light waves.
Disassembling the Juwel lamp
The question is: is it possible to disassemble a standard lamp on the RIO series to access the ballast? The thing is that the lamps are flickering, I think the ballast is faulty. I installed new lamps - it still blinks. This happens non-periodically, it can appear at any time, blink for five minutes - then it lights up normally.
464 14 Moscow 5 years
The metal fittings are easy to disassemble - you tear off the side plugs, then remove the top. I haven’t tried the plastic ones, they say you can only use a hacksaw.
464 14 Moscow 5 years
By the way, are the lamps new? This can happen to them, it happened to me too, the light seemed to float across the lamp in waves. This passes, Shumov said that on new lamps it is a common occurrence, after
100 hours disappears completely. For me it disappeared faster, in 3 days.
77 1 3 years
I tried both new and used lamps. The light just “rattles”, not exactly in waves. The lamp is plastic. Probably the principle of disassembly is similar - the sides and top cover are removed (as). Just how to carefully remove the sides - can anyone advise?
107 6 years
no injury to the power supply, I tried it recently, I removed the end caps, drilling out the sealed rivets (not all the way through), when I tried to open it I found out that it was sealed along its entire length and it was impossible to unstick it, I just couldn’t get to it and tried to take it apart because the lamps went out, I thought they were burned out, I bought a new one and it still didn’t light up, it turned out that the wire in the switch came loose, I had to install a new switch. and everything worked for the aquarium for 2 weeks, I don’t know if it’s a defect or what, I seemed to trust this company, but gradually using the aqua you realize that the can is not very convenient and not the best...
549 1 Korolev 4 years
Yes, it really is unbreakable, just cut out the top around the perimeter, and then seal it with an overlay, and nothing else.
125 Lyubertsy 2 years
No need to break anything. We had the same problem after moving. It turned out that the electronic ballast did not survive such an execution. So we just tore off the sides and removed the top. Yes, everything is glued together conscientiously. But there’s no need for it to be broken! Then everything can be glued together and it will be like new again. Verified.
549 1 Korolev 4 years
Yeah, it’s a huge pain in the ass, there’s a lot of messing around with a screwdriver and inserting wires, and then if it’s screwed on, how to unscrew it, then, on the old ones, at least the plate was taken out, and everything was in a bundle, but here it’s screwed in the center and just take it out .
Modified 11/23/2007 by Da_King_Vovan
13 13 years
Lamps for RIO are very easy to disassemble and can be repaired. You must first drill out two molten plastic “rivets” from the inside on the sidewalls, after which the sidewalls will be removed. Next, use a sharp knife (retractable blade) to trim the top cover and (cutting it further and further) pull it away from the base. And so slowly trim the silicone along the entire length of the lid. After repair, the cover can be glued with COSMOFEN glue. A small note. As a rule, electronic ballasts in RIO burn due to overload. So in my RIO 300 a 3x32W electronic ballast is installed. It burned out when installing PowerGlo, and this lamp is rated at 40W. When making repairs (if you have already disassembled the lamp and design is not the last thing for your can!) I recommend replacing the double ballast with two single ballasts with slightly higher power. So for my RIO 300 I installed 40W Schwab ballasts. When sealing the lamp body, it is also necessary to carefully glue all the cracks and (from the inside!) holes for entering wires into the sockets. Because moisture gets in, all your work will be lost.
Modified 11/24/07 by v_vovchek
549 1 Korolev 4 years
We are apparently talking about different Rios, you have an aluminum box, there is a piece of polystyrene glued on top, anyone can remove it, but here we were talking about the full body of the Jewelry lamp, it is completely made of plastic and is not easy to disassemble.
347 4 Moscow 27 days.
So, after all, has anyone disassembled the latest models of Juvel lamps themselves? Or does anyone know where on Ptichka they can do this?
otherwise the lamp began to turn off and switch on chaotically, apparently the electronic ballast is faulty, what can I replace it with? We're talking about T8
677 1 8 years
My new lamp burned out after 4 months of T5 lamps. For 2 months it turned on and off, and then went out completely. I cut off the cover from the bottom, 20 minutes of work with a saw, a hacksaw won’t work, I bought an Osram ballast and installed 2 fans for blowing in and out, the ballast heats up great. I put the lid back on with super glue, then sealed the seam with dichloroethane and aquarium sealant on top. With this ballast, the lamps burn much brighter, in my opinion, %20 exactly, and the spectrum is clearer. But this is just my opinion, and they burn brighter, that’s for sure.
I showed my native ballast to literate people, they said the level of Chinese feron, and in one place there was a black spot, they said it clearly did not pull 2x45V lamps. Although no one knows what kind of lamps there are.
Modified 1.2.08 by Mutabors_72
347 4 Moscow 27 days.
Mutabors_72
And what kind of file is that for metal? except to cut it off like you, nothing else comes to mind
And the original question is: electronic ballasts - is that all that’s in the white box? So basically I need to throw it away and buy another one? or should I change something else?
677 1 8 years
The lid is completely sealed, there may be other ways to open it, but I decided to cut it off. The white box is the electronic ballast that turns on the light. OSRAM is a smart electronic ballast, it first lights up the filament for a second, and then only the lamp itself and there are a bunch of other bells and whistles there.
If you believe the signatures, then your light is T8, not T5. I think if you break the lid, it’s better to immediately switch to T5. The light will increase 2 times from the same 2 lamps. The cartridges can be easily removed there and cost pennies, you buy a T5 ballast and a couple of lamps and you get about 0.8 watts per liter.
I compare it with the light in a 45L aquarium where there is 0.67V per liter, T5 now shines much brighter.
Modified 1.2.08 by Mutabors_72
320 9 Moscow 3 years
When switching from T8 to T5, simply replacing cartridges is not enough. The lamps probably vary greatly in length. This means you will have to embed the cartridges in a new place and seal the old holes. After 1.5 years, the cover from RIO-125 begins to behave “unconfidently”. Occasionally the lamps dim for a moment. It looks like ordinary light bulbs in a dacha behave when the voltage drops. Therefore, I am starting to think about replacing or upgrading the lid. What did you power the fans from?
Although this is what I found in the price list of aquatic fish. “Correspondence table for JUWEL lamps and aquariums Lamp length – Watts – Suitable for aquarium JUWEL 438 mm- 24 W- Lido® 120, Trigon® 350 590 mm- 28 W- Rio® 125, Trigon® 190 742 mm- 35 W- Vision® 180 895 mm- 45 W- Rio® 180, Trigon® 350 1047 mm- 54 W- Rio® 240, Rio® 300, Vision® 260 1200 mm- 54 W- Rio® 400, Vision® 450" Apparently JUWEL specially I started making non-standard T5 lamps so that they would match the length of T8.
Modified 2.2.08 by FAP Lap
Modified 2.2.08 by FAP Lap
677 1 8 years
I took the fans from a 2500 rpm video card and inserted them at the edges. At first I wanted to find a transformer to insert it inside and not have to remove additional wires, but a normal power supply costs quite a lot from 800 rubles and above, so I took a power supply from old Genius 500mv speakers and I pulled out the wire with a thin drill and filled everything with sealant. I think the cover on T8 is the same length as on T5 and the lamp is 895mm. T5 lamps 45 watt High Lite are also 895 mm, but Hagen and Sylvania will soon be available for this length, so you don’t have to buy expensive Jewel. My cartridges are secured with latches.
I used to have an Aqua-Nara aquarium, there were Sylvania Gro Lux and Daylightstar 30W T8, the T5 light with Jewel lamps is much brighter, and if you also put reflectors, then I think it’s worth the candle.
The only thing that disappointed me was not the reliability of the Yuvel ballast, for such money for an aquarium and such an ambush.
677 1 8 years
I bought Yuvel lamps for 550 rubles at Ptichka, cartridges for about 30 rubles from Mikhail at the same Ptichka, if you don’t want to spend money, then take a simpler Epra, not Osram, for 45V lamps you need not the Epra that you wrote and it costs 1490 rubles. It’s true that there are such Epras, the same Osram, for 700 rubles, but I didn’t dare take the Chinese ones, they have a guarantee of 100,000 hours at a heating temperature of 70C, which is not the case with my fans.
If you don’t want to be fooled, then take the lid to Mikhail, he will make about a thousand, but without lamps. Add 1100 rubles for lamps and get good light on Voslokh Schwabe electronic ballasts, that’s what he makes.
347 4 Moscow 27 days.
I bought a new T8 lamp for 2700, fooling around and upgrading a broken one to a T5 would not be economically feasible IMHO, and even give it to someone for 1000 rubles. done - also inappropriate
because either I screw everything myself, change the electronic ballasts and install Juwel lamps that I already have on T8 and in the end I get 120 watts for 180 liters, or it’s easier to buy glomats as they advised me here and throw out the broken lamp
677 1 8 years
I'll tell you from myself! If we were talking about tens of thousands, then it would be understandable, but when we are talking about 100 dollars, which is enough to go to the store in our life, then this is not entirely clear to me.
Don't you just want to do it once and forget about everything and with all this new lamp technology? Measuring light in watts is not entirely correct, you need to measure it in lumens, and on T5 with lumens it’s a completely different story. But you spend 100 dollars for years, otherwise you go to the store once with this money. Reassembling the opened lid is not at all difficult and there are no pitfalls. IMHO
It's up to you, this is just my opinion.
Have you already bought a new cover for the T8 Juvel?
320 9 Moscow 3 years
In general, my lamp is covered. And taking into account the fact that a week ago a homemade “glomat” was also covered, the situation has become extremely aggravated. Just a week ago I had a lamp and 2 additional ones. lamps. Total 3x18 W + 1x25 W. Now there is only 25 watts left. I have RIO-125, so I looked at electronic ballasts for lamps 590 and 742 mm long.
The first option and the easiest one is to buy a new lamp + “glomat” produced by Ptichka for 30 W for a 25 W lamp. Price: 2700 + 350 + 320 (sylvania aquastar) = 3400. Advantages: ease of implementation, availability of lamps and further ease of replacing lamps. Disadvantages: you will have to deal with Juvel fittings again, but they are no longer trustworthy (see below), tightness in the under-hood space (4 T8 lamps), problems with the placement of reflectors, an abundance of wires (1 for the lamp and 4 for each additional socket).
The second one is to start reworking on T5. There are a lot of sub-options here. 1. simply replace T8 (18 W) lamps with T5 (28 W) lamps 590 mm long. 2. change T8 lamps (18 W) to longer T5 (35 W) lamps, length 742. Here the question arises: will it fit? It was possible to place T8 25W lamps with cap-on silicone sockets, but almost end-to-end. The second question is that you need to cut new holes and seal the old ones. 3. simply change the T8 (18 W) lamps to T5 (28 W) 590 mm long + add 1 more electronic ballast inside for 1 or 2 T5 (35 W) lamps 742 long. Attach the lamps to the lamp lamps with two fastened together with a friend using clips, as is often recommended in this section, and connecting through cap sockets. Question: will the lamp withstand 2 electronic ballasts without melting? Minimum price: Mikhail 1000 + lamps 1100 = 2100, multiply by 2 for the maximum. Advantages: you can get by with fewer lamps, instead of 4 put 3 (2x28+35). Total 91 W instead of the old 86 W. Fewer wires, actually one. Disadvantages: although this technology is not so new, it is still relatively rare and expensive.
In general, I will decide according to the location, i.e. on Ptichka after consultations with Mikhail and checking the availability and prices of components.
Light intensity
To choose the right lighting for an aquarium, it is necessary to take into account many factors: its type (sea or freshwater), the presence of plants in it and their needs (what intensity of light they need), the geometric parameters of the jar itself (the height of the water column) and the color of the water. Depending on all these factors, lamps and fixtures are selected.
Proper aquarium lighting should provide enough light, but too much light is also harmful.
Selection by volume
A common practice is to select the brightness of the aquarium lights based on its volume. The technique does not take into account many nuances, but can be used as a basis for approximately determining the required lamp power. The required power of the lamps is calculated depending on the volume of water (not the tank, but the water - subtract the air gap and the thickness of the soil).
Replacing electronic ballasts
After checking and troubleshooting the wiring and lighting, the most difficult case remains - replacing the chokes. We remove the lid from the aquarium, disconnect it from the electrical network and begin to disassemble it. Problems can arise with this: very often the top panel is glued or mounted on a special silicone. To disconnect, you will need to make an effort and at the same time try to do it as carefully as possible. Under the panel there are electrical wires and electronic ballasts, in common parlance – starters. If you are not an expert, then it is advisable to write down, or better yet take a photograph, which wire goes where.
It is better to purchase electronic ballasts in a specialized store to be sure of the reliability of the parts. We disconnect the starter from the wires and replace it with the same or higher power. We assemble everything according to the previous scheme.
We seal the compartment with silicone to protect it from moisture. We reinstall the top panel, connect the electricity and check its functionality. And if the timer breaks, it is not repaired, but replaced with a new one.
How to disassemble a Biodesign lamp?
Actually this is the question. I assume that the problem is in the electronic ballast, which is located inside the aluminum housing. But how to take it apart? Has anyone been substantively puzzled by this?
8277 4795 Moscow 2 hours. They are not collapsible. The manufacturer does this on purpose in order to protect against people with crooked hands and unstable psyches. So as not to have complaints later like “I took it apart and changed the electronics and now it doesn’t work” or “I took it apart and got an electric shock.” But you and I live in Russia, so I think you’ll figure out how to take it apart. I disassembled mine with a hammer and chisel 134 12 Moscow 3 years Neither a hammer nor a chisel was needed. Today is a day off and we need to fix it right away. aqua lamp. I dug it out, there will be photos, but later. Meaning: the upper plastic plate (the Off-On button is installed in it) is installed in the grooves of the aluminum lamp body on black sealant. I saw this by removing the end caps (4 screws on each side). I slightly spread the sides of the body with my fingers - the plate popped out, the sealant remained on the grooves. And all the filling appeared in all its glory. Now I’m going to go get the electronic ballast, how can I call her? And was she covered? In general, I will replace the lamps and this figurine.
Regular, Store Representative
1801 789 Moscow 16 o'clock.
99 out of 100 that this is an electronic ballast. With Biodesign lamps they fly out quite often.
Regular, Store Representative
1801 789 Moscow 16 o'clock.
If the user disassembles something himself, this automatically eliminates any claims against the manufacturer.
134 12 Moscow 3 years
Probably the manufacturer empirically established a 6-month warranty on the lamp. For me, after 7 months of operation, everything happened and it was the electronic ballast. I went and bought it (RUB 155) and replaced it. Satisfied. This is not 2kRub, as one repairman told me when the price of a new lamp is 1.8kRub.
951 53 Moscow 7 months.
Dusik
I went and bought it (155 rubles) and replaced it.
Something suspiciously very cheap electronic ballast, maybe you bought an electronic ballast?
134 12 Moscow 3 years So I was surprised myself! 36W. on Perovskaya. 553 103 Noginsk 2 days. Is the electronic ballast by any chance made by ASD?
Modified 10/28/13 by Andruha1212
134 12 Moscow 3 years
Andruha1212
Feron China.
6963 968 Pushkino 1 year, if the old ruble electronic ballast radically changes the attitude towards lighting - it becomes the way it should have been from the very beginning (and for me, for example, for many years now similar ones have been plowing for 12-15 hours a day), the question arises: “then what Well, for the super-economy option it’s worth it in a famous aquas, as long as you stick with it.” I insert it into the terminals all the way to eliminate a possible arc by 99.9%.
Modified 11/8/13 by Andruha1212
1392 60 Moscow 4 months.
Why protect this city from moisture, they heat up like crazy, you can dry your laundry if you don’t dip it in water, nothing will happen to it, I have two of the same kind, because of them the temperature in the tank in winter is 26-27 without heating, and this is in 500 liters, heating at night turns on when the lights go out. and in the summer you have to remove the covers from the water and not turn on the lights so that it can cool down somehow. I also changed the epra))) and annoyingly changed the light from T8 to T5.
Modified 11/8/13 by KOFEIN
6963 968 Pushkino 1 year, a little refinement on electronic ballasts and the 36-watt iron is ready. 674 94 Moscow 2 years
Andruha1212
Perhaps they were cleaned this way and not inserted that way?
134 12 Moscow 3 years Inserted all the way. They were cleaned extremely sloppily and in different ways. 134 12 Moscow 3 years Just today I was disassembling a lamp from a 300-liter aqua (aquarium-best.). In any case, judging by the picture from the site, the lamp is very similar. The electronic ballast was also covered, but I had to open the case with a knife along the seam. Very unpleasant, there was a risk of breaking off a strip of plastic from the case. The lamp was repaired by the former owners (the jar itself was inherited). Inside there was a Feron electronic ballast dated 09.2011. To be honest, the Biodesign lamp is just a piece of jewelry compared to this! There can be no talk about sealing, heat removal, etc.! There are thoughts about replacing it with Biodesign, as long as the dimensions match.
975 50 Moscow 6 years
If you want the ZPRA to live as long as possible, do forced ventilation. Without it, the electronic ballast will fail due to overheating!!
134 12 Moscow 3 years
I agree, one of the options for “long life” of electronic ballasts is cooling. Also power redundancy. I took electronic ballasts with power reserves to a large aquatic tank. Let's see how this increases the service life.
134 12 Moscow 3 years
Do you think the adventure is over? Today there was a continuation of the banquet! The lamp has gone out! Yes, again, yes, electronic ballast! Feron died. I went around the bazaar to look for other goods. I bought Osram with similar parameters. A funny thing was discovered when connecting. As is now known, this lamp uses a series connection of lamps to electronic ballasts. Which has a negative effect on Osram's electronic ballast. The launch of the second lamp is perceived by it as an inrush current (abnormal) and its protection is triggered. That's it, the light has gone out and will not come back on until the protection is unlocked. As I understand it, two lamps on Osram electronic ballasts are bad manners? In any case, for one lamp with an equivalent load, the electronic ballast works hard. I bought Feron again and continue to monitor it.
Aquarium lighting time
When designing lighting, the question arises: how long should the aquarium lighting last? The answer is based on the "habits" of plants and fish. They come from tropical latitudes, where daylight hours last approximately 12 hours, regardless of the time of year. This is the lighting regime you need to provide your plants.
Sometimes they try to compensate for the lack of illumination by extending daylight hours. This usually does not have positive consequences, but negative ones appear very often - with long daylight hours, the water begins to bloom, the illumination decreases further, and there is a need to replace the water.
In addition to the fact that the light in the aquarium should be on for a certain time, it is also advisable to create some semblance of half a day - for some time - 3-4 hours a day - the lighting should be very bright, the rest of the time the intensity of the aquarium lighting can be reduced. To implement such a mode, several lamps are used, which are turned on through separate toggle switches/switches.
Time relays of different types that are installed in a socket
In order to automate the process, you can install a time relay. Today there are absolutely inexpensive models through which you can turn on the lamps. They are mechanical and electronic. Electronic ones can be programmable and you won’t have to set the time each time, since the power will be supplied and turned off automatically.
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Aquarium fish can be a real hobby or a beautiful addition to a cozy and relaxing environment, it doesn’t matter. The main thing is that the light source for fish is of serious importance, therefore, if aquarium lamps break down, it is necessary to urgently correct the situation in order to avoid illness or death of the inhabitants of the aquarium.
What to do?
Someone will try to figure out the problem themselves, but they may simply waste time. It is better to immediately, immediately contact a specialist who repairs aquarium lamps . Why?
Because aquarium lighting sources are different:
- LED
- luminescent
- metal halide
- incandescent lamps
- other
Also, it is the master who will be able to understand the repair of aquarium lamps , since he knows not only how to check all types of lighting sources for failure or burnout, but also the design of various suspensions for lighting aquariums, types of mixed lighting, and so on.
Type Diagnostics Work of a master Repair of an aquarium lamp 500 rub. from 2000 rub.
Aquael Leddy Smart LED How to disassemble?
Good afternoon friends . Faced trouble. This lamp died after not even working for 3 months. I don’t have any documents for it, but the sticker says 2021 with 6 months.
The service center said that the lamps are not replaceable and the lamp is not collapsible. I twirled it in my hands, everything fit tightly, I thought about the latches, I tried to pry it with a plastic card, but it didn’t work. I don't want to mutilate it with a knife. Maybe someone has figured out this miracle? I'm hoping that some thread of the capacitor has died or something has oxidized. The new 1700r stifles the toad, considering that I haven’t seen any super light or effect from it.
3604 1566 Kaluga 1.5 37 min.
He doesn't understand without sabotage.
Modified 11/15/17 by Dart Voland
637 230 Moscow 4.5 7 months. Maybe the problem is in the switch, I would start with that. 596 422 Moscow 1 day.
I haven’t touched the switch with my hands, it’s all done on a timer, but now I’m tinkering with it. not a switch.
7 2 Moscow 3 years This model of lamp is very difficult to disassemble, once I also wanted to disassemble it, I couldn’t open it properly ((( 596 422 Moscow 1 day. Well, anyway, the piece of plastic on the cable came off easily. Then it should snap off where the lamp is, rectangle. Are there just latches? Do you just have to pull? 825 180 Moscow 4 months.
how did it break? A couple of diodes sometimes shine and that’s it?
7 2 Moscow 3 years I couldn’t take it apart (in the end I just broke it (( 3153 3215 Moscow 5 hours.
There is a certain trading principle. If you don’t want unification, make it so that no one can repair and replace it. Certain components are specially ordered from major manufacturers, with minor modifications. “This is especially often observed among manufacturers of Hi-End sound equipment.” A typical example is the standard sizes of Yuvel lamps.
Ps: So breaking and changing is sometimes the best option, or buying, which is sometimes cheaper..
Modified 11/17/17 by [email protected]
596 422 Moscow 1 day. no, everything is simpler. Does not work . That is, if there was a steam glow, or a dim light, it could be due to overheating or something else, but here it simply doesn’t light up. I checked the cable and the switch too. I thought what kind of Conder, or transistor) resistor) I already had a plan for a trap in my head. Buy a new one and sell this one under the guise, but somehow my hand didn’t rise, today I’ll break it. 825 180 Moscow 4 months.
For me it came on every other time and then dimly.
Replaced under warranty.
596 422 Moscow 1 day.
The lamp cannot be disassembled. Just break it. The interior is very dubious. I think that the cost of this lamp is VERY overpriced. Photos of what's inside, if anyone is interested:
3604 1566 Kaluga 1.5 37 min.
Wow, there used to be more details on the “driver”. I have similar cobs in my car with license plate lights. I bought 150 rubles from the auto store. The cost of such a lamp is 400 rubles.
316 32 3 years
Buy something cheap and cheerful on Ali. It’s not that they sell reliable and high-quality things, but compared to the Aquael lamp, everything will be better. And it will obviously work for more than 3 months. In general, I have nothing against the Aquael brand; I have the first Aqua from them, as well as filter heaters. But their lamps are made of guano. Also, by the way, take a look at Biodesign - after releasing a new line, they greatly discounted the old one.
3604 1566 Kaluga 1.5 37 min.
Alas, apart from the aquariums themselves and the waterfall filters, Aquael doesn’t have anything that particularly shines with quality. Externals compete in the most stubborn design, internals of different series also have a number of problems, for example, with a wire falling off at the pump, heating pads consistently cook fish soup, lamps. Well, they don’t live long, as the photos above have proven once again.
316 32 3 years I heard horror stories about heaters, about those that are flat plastic (I don’t remember what they are called). There seem to be good reviews about Comfort Zone Gold, in my old one it was 50W, in the new one it was 75W, pah-pah-pah. The filter is in the old PAT-Mini (which has an external sponge and bulbulator), in the new ASAP-300. Accordingly, both the heater and the filter in the old one have already worked for three years. I don’t really like the new filter, but rather because of the moronic design that is inconvenient to disassemble. And not only should they be ashamed of the lamps, but also how can they sell 60-liter aquariums with 6-watt lighting. For me, this was the decisive factor not to take their aquarium (I originally planned Aquael LEDDY 60, but this fly in the ointment outweighed the whole barrel of honey). I hope that the representative of Aquael will read this thread; first of all, this is a lost profit for them. 3604 1566 Kaluga 1.5 37 min.
Maybe low-power golden zones live, but I have a whole bed of 150-watt ones. 1 year - and a corpse, maybe because they were mainly used spring - autumn.
596 422 Moscow 1 day.
In general, for me and probably for many, watercolor is a classic of aquarium art. That's where it all began. The problem is that everyone has started working on a “managed warranty” and modular repairs or replacements. Why change a light bulb for 200 rubles if you can sell the lamp for 1700 rubles.
And yes, I also have a 60L jar with a T8 lamp that doesn’t shine at all, I saw an analogue with LED, but that’s also a problem. And the price tag? Brrr.
Biodesign. I really like this company. There are 3 cans of them and a new LED light and ice for the cube, everything is perfect, the price is 100% quality. I would like to see more internal filters and heating pads under their brand. People simply make quality and set a real price.
