Breeding discus fish at home - rules, what is necessary, useful information

From the outside it seems that aquarium fish are very comfortable pets: they sit in one place and silently decorate the interior. And indeed, beautiful tropical fish - discus - cope with the decorative function “excellently”. But as soon as you think about purchasing these “kings of the aquarium,” an avalanche of questions immediately arises: what size container is needed, how to design it, where to get water and soil, what to feed, how to ensure the breeding of discus fish at home, etc. And suddenly it turns out that modest silent people require enormous care, attention and knowledge.

The history of the “kings of the aquarium”

At the beginning of the century before last, the Australian scientist J. Natterer discovered a previously unknown species of fish in Brazil. He compiled a description of the species, but that was all then. The first specimens of discus fish arrived in Europe from Brazil only in the twenties of the last century and quickly gained popularity among aquarists. However, they learned to breed them in captivity only in the forties in Germany, and the first experience of breeding discus at home was recorded in the GDR another decade and a half later, in 1956.

The first discus fish appeared in our country in 1957, but could not survive. Only in 1962 were Estonian experts able to provide the capricious fish with the necessary conditions of detention. Now breeding discus fish is not an easy task, but it can be solved even for amateurs.

Keeping discus fish in an aquarium

Discus fish photo

Discus fish content photo

Discus fish are one of the most difficult tropical fish to keep and are not recommended for beginner aquarists. One of the most difficult stages of keeping discus fish is the process of their acclimatization in a new aquarium. And due to their large size, it is worth acquiring a large aquarium in advance so as not to further injure the fish during transplantation.

To keep discus fish, you need a large aquarium with a capacity of at least 50 - 80 liters per individual with good water flow and effective filtration. Fish prefer warm, soft, slightly acidic water, which can often be achieved by using a reverse osmosis filter. And in aquariums with live plants, it is recommended to install a carbon dioxide supply.

Some aquarists place discus fish in aquariums with a bare bottom (without substrate) and consider this method of keeping to be the best, although not very beautiful.

The absence of a substrate makes it easy to clean the tank from feces and rotting debris. This is a good way to keep the water quality stable and perfect.

Since discus are a schooling fish, they need to be kept in a group of at least 6 individuals.

Unlike many members of the cichlid family, discus fish are peaceful fish. Representatives of the Characin species (neon tetras, cardinal tetras, ember tetras, harlequin tetras and rummynose tetras), dwarf cichlids, ancistrus, angelfishes (angelfish) are suitable as neighbors. At the same time, you should refrain from being close to Corydoras Catfish, because these fish are prone to carrying internal parasites and can infect discus fish.

Discus fish are very shy fish. They feel comfortable in secluded corners, densely planted with plants, which in turn should have water parameters similar to those of discus fish (Vallisneria, Nymphea tiger, Anubias, Echinodorus, Ambulia, Schisandra, Thai fern, Hornworts, etc.).

Remember, discus are very sensitive to fluctuations in water parameters and even small amounts of nitrates and ammonia. Maintaining the required water parameters is the key to a long life for fish!!!

Where do “wild” discus live?

Discus fish are indigenous to the Amazon basin. The river regularly floods throughout the year and floods vast areas. When the rainy season ends, the water gradually returns to its previous course, leaving behind a scattering of large and small lakes - the favorite habitats of these tropical beauties. After a couple of months, isolated forest reservoirs become crystal clear and transparent, although the water in them becomes dark from the humus accumulated at the bottom.

Characteristic water parameters in the natural habitat of discus fish:

• dark, almost black color;
• high softness;
• lack of electrical conductivity;
• high acidity;
• state close to sterility.

In nature, discus fish love quiet, calm corners and are practically never found in places with strong currents. They spawn in coastal waters, almost near the shore, where there is dense vegetation.

Feed recommended for larvae

The ideal food that experienced discus breeders recommend is Artemia or Cyclops nauplii. It is recommended to feed the fry often and in small portions. It is important to start changing the water in the spawning tank as soon as you start feeding the babies, because the quality of water for discus fish, and especially their juveniles, should be the best. Under no circumstances should the aquatic environment be allowed to become cloudy . When replacing, make sure that the new water does not contain chlorine, and its parameters, incl. the temperature corresponded to the parameters of the liquid in the spawning aquarium. At the first change, replace a small amount of water and increase it with each subsequent change. This will have a positive effect on the growth and health of the brood.

After a few weeks, the babies will form and resemble their parents in appearance. By this time, they will be practically independent and will very soon begin to eat larger food.

Within a month, the babies will grow to 3 cm and will stop feeding on the secretions of adults. At this time, the parents can be returned to the common aquarium, and the babies can be allowed to grow a little more. Over the course of a year, with proper care, your babies can grow up to 10-12 centimeters!

Breeding discus fish requires a lot of patience, knowledge and skills. But if you take into account all the nuances of the content, understand the behavior and habits of the fish, then you can create a wonderful underwater world in your aquarium, where each individual will become its decoration, and the results of your labors will bring you great joy. Breeding discus fish, like meditation, does not tolerate fuss and distraction.

Appearance and behavior characteristics

In the natural environment, fish grow to the size of a saucer (12-13 cm), and their domesticated descendants can reach the diameter of a plate (20-25 cm). Compared to the disc-shaped, almost round body, the head and mouth appear small. The dorsal and anal fins are located along the entire length of the body, and the caudal fin looks like a half-open fan. At the junction of the head and the body there are two more long ventral fins.

The color of “savages” includes only gray, blue, greenish or brown shades. Their descendants are distinguished by a wide variety of colors and patterns:

• Heckel's discus - bright red eyes, reddish-yellow body with deep blue wavy stripes, decorated with nine transverse dark stripes;
• green discus – brown-yellow color with sky-blue veins, the body is covered with unusual scales that flicker greenish under the sun’s rays;
• discus equi-stripe - alternating vertical stripes of the same width of blue or green on a reddish-yellow background.

Even within one species there are minor differences in color, and in addition there are several subspecies with characteristic patterns and color combinations.

Features of keeping discus fish

Discus fish are quite whimsical, and their maintenance requires certain strict conditions. First of all, when purchasing these fish, you need to provide them with easy acclimatization to a new place. Since the fish are schooling, it’s worth buying several of them. But even compliance with all the conditions does not guarantee trouble-free placement of discus in a new home - the fish are not at all stress-resistant.

In the photo there is a discus leopard fish

One of the main requirements for keeping discus fish is a large aquarium volume. Since these fish are quite large and inhabit them in groups of six or more individuals, there should be enough space for them - from 250 liters of water. The height of the aquarium must be at least 50 cm and the width at least 40 cm.

Narrow screen aquariums are not suitable, since an adult discus simply cannot turn around normally in them. As for the requirements for the water itself, it is better to use the water that comes from your tap, letting it sit for 48 hours to remove free chlorine.

Many people believe that since discus live in soft water in nature, then the aquarium should have the same. But, firstly, this creates certain difficulties with replacement, because you need to replace at least 30% of the water with clean water weekly, and secondly, hard water is even safer - parasites that are destructive to discus fish do not survive in it.

Pictured is a discus diamond

But the fish themselves feel quite fine at a pH of more than 8.0. In addition, it is easier to provoke fish living in such water to reproduce by making the water soft and creating other necessary conditions. As for the water temperature, it should be at least 29C⁰.

Another important condition for keeping discus fish is the cleanliness of the aquarium. From compliance with this parameter, several more requirements follow: refusal of plants inhabiting the aquarium, constant (preferably after each feeding) cleaning of the soil or abandonment of it, installation of a good water filter

An important factor in the successful keeping of discus fish will be to ensure they have a quiet life; you should not traumatize the weak psyche of these fish with loud sounds, knocking, or sudden movements. Therefore, it is better to place the aquarium in a quiet, secluded place, where there is enough diffused light, but there are no bright sunlight.

In bright light, discus fish will constantly feel discomfort. The bottom of the aquarium should also be dark. You can use high-quality plastic driftwood, branches, and plants as decoration. Discus fish love to hide in various shelters and stand under tree branches.

Features of aquarium design, selection of water and soil

Experts advise setting aside a separate aquarium for discus fish, but they can be kept in general - the peace-loving “kings” do not get into “tough fights” with their neighbors. Basic design requirements:

• the height of the water layer must be at least 40 cm;
• the bottom should be decorated with plants with short stems and large leaves extended upward;
• to create secluded shaded corners, plants floating on the surface and driftwood scattered along the bottom are required.

Water parameters:

• temperature 28-31°C;
• acidity within 5.8-7.2 pH;
• hardness up to 12 dH (degrees of hardness).

Every week it is necessary to change from a fifth to a quarter of the volume of water. You can replace it daily, but then only 1/10 of the total volume is used.

Two design options are allowed:

• classic with underwater plants;
• empty container without soil and decoration.

Any plants that can withstand the required water temperature are suitable for decoration. The recommended volume is at least 250 liters (preferably 400 liters or more). The preferred shape is an elongated rectangle with a height of at least 50 cm to ensure the required height of the water column.

Discus spawning aquarium

Reproduction of discus fish in an aquarium requires serious technical and theoretical training from the owner. You need a container with a volume of at least 100 liters. and a minimum length of 1 m. Dimmed light is preferable; complete darkness is unacceptable. A reliable compressor is needed to ensure a constant supply of oxygen.

Do you need soil in a spawning tank?

If in a general aquarium soil and plants are needed as decoration, then the spawning tank can do without filling the bottom. Professionals have different opinions on this matter, but most still advise breeding fish in an aquarium with a clean bottom. Sand mixtures, small pebbles (2-4 mm) or special porous clay are used as soil.

Water parameters for discus breeding

One of the most difficult issues in arranging a spawning ground is the composition of the water. You need very soft water (2-3 degrees hardness) with a temperature a couple of degrees higher than in a general aquarium. Parents, eggs and fry do not tolerate changes in the composition of water. An unstable environment leads to illness and death of pets.

Discus spawning substrate

The substrate can be any vertical surface where discus fish can lay eggs:

• plant leaves;
• decorative driftwood;
• special clay cones.

Professionals sometimes use baked bricks as a substrate for caviar. Parents can also lay eggs on the side walls, but the horizontal surface of the bottom is almost never used.

How to properly breed discus fish

It is not difficult to determine that the fish are ready to reproduce - parents begin to actively clean the leaves of plants and the vertical sides of the decor in order to lay eggs in these places without interference. When the spawning ground, equipment and food are prepared, it’s time to transplant the pair from the common container. On the third day, the first fry appear from the eggs, but for another couple of weeks, or even a month, they need the presence of their parents. The adults can then be returned to the community aquarium.

Variety of species

Fish were brought to Europe in the 30-40s. Initially, only Heckel's discus (named after the discoverer), or red, was known. At the beginning of the 20th century, another species was described - green discus, living in the central Amazon (Putumayo River in Peru, Lake Tefe in Brazil). In the late 60s, blue and brown discus were discovered. All the above mentioned fish are natural varieties.

In addition, in the nineties, more and more new breeding and hybrid forms appeared. And nowadays they are much more popular than natural ones, even though they are more prone to disease and require more careful care.

The modern classification identifies five main groups of discus fish, within which there are many more variations:

Red. The main background of the body is in the range of red shades from orange to cherry. These fish are very colorful and therefore sell well. However, to maintain color intensity, they will need food with special additives.

Cobalt .
These fish are distinguished by the presence of shiny stripes and sparkles on the body and fins. They are a little similar to turquoise, but unlike them, the color is not green, but blue. Turquoise . From the name it is clear that the main shade of their bodies is turquoise. There may be a pattern of spots and stripes. This species is the most common among Russian aquarium enthusiasts due to the fact that it came to our country back in the 70s.

Pigeon blood . The main body color is yellowish-pink, as if dusty.

Golden . These are the most expensive fish of all five groups. Individuals with a pure gold color without dark pigment are especially valued.

How to distinguish a lady from a gentleman

In short, no way. Nature has not endowed males and females with obvious differences. However, they somehow distinguish themselves, perhaps by a tie pin or brooch, but they categorically refuse to share this secret with people. Owners of these tropical beauties have to do some detective work to find out the sex of the fish.

At home, the easiest way to “unravel the matter” is if there is already a ready-made pair of known males and females. An individual is added to this family, the sex of which must be determined. If the “husband” is mistaken for the violator of the family idyll, then the alien is also a male. If the “wife” begins to chase the stranger, then it is a female. Experienced aquarists note that the male has a steeper forehead and thicker lips than the female. But it is difficult for an untrained person to notice this difference.

Preparing a “maternity hospital” for discus fish

In nature, fish use the roots of underwater plants and coastal shrubs for shelter and spawning. At home, discus breeding is possible only under a certain water condition and in the presence of a special substrate for eggs. This is a vertically located leaf of a plant, a stone, a snag or any other vertical surface where fish can lay eggs.

A couple of expectant parents need to be isolated. You can remove the remaining fish from the main aquarium or transplant the parents into a separate container. The discus spawning tank must meet the following requirements:

• size no less than 90 cm in length;
• water with indicators 29-31°C, pH 5.5-6.5, dH 1-3, kH 0;
• the presence of a vertically located surface (substrate) is required;
• soil is not needed, but may be present.

For successful breeding, it is necessary to provide at least one secluded corner with dim light, shaded by dense thickets of plants. The family will spend the first days after the fry appear in this shelter.

Breeding discus fish in a community aquarium

Keeping discus fish in a shared container poses some difficulties:

• not all tropical fish are able to withstand temperatures and water composition that are comfortable for discus;
• too nimble “neighbors” will have time to grab the food earlier and make the slow “kings” go hungry.

Experts note that breeding discus fish in a community aquarium affects all its inhabitants. When the couple begins to prepare for spawning, their neighbors have a hard time: for some time all the inhabitants are forced to sit quietly in the corners so as not to irritate the future parents.

Discus spawning in a community aquarium

The couple is very kind to their offspring and vigorously chases all other fish that dare to approach their precious eggs or fry. Another problem with breeding in a community aquarium is that the fry cannot find their “breadwinners” and die of hunger.

One of the culprits in this situation may be the internal filter. It creates a light, almost imperceptible flow. To find a source of food in nature, fry instinctively swim against the movement of water, as they are guided by the flow created by the body and fins of adult fish. In a container with an internal filter, the fry go against the current, reach the equipment, do not find food and die.

Important! To successfully breed discus fish, you need an external filter that will not create currents.

How to properly decorate an aquarium

How the fish will feel in it, their health and reproduction depends on how well the aquarium is designed.

The main and most important factor is the water temperature, which should be around 30°C . This also becomes the main argument when choosing plants that will be placed in an aquarium, since not all of them can grow at this temperature, so high-quality artificial plantings are usually used.

In addition, this species simply requires the presence of driftwood or a large grotto for shelter. Ash, alder or maple are perfect. Avoid introducing resinous trees and oak into the aquarium.

It is worth paying special attention to lighting, especially if there are live plants in the aquarium. Since discus do not like bright light, there may simply not be enough light for the plants. The way out is to create special darkened areas.

To create conditions close to natural, experienced aquarists recommend making the background of the aquarium dark in color and placing several well-treated driftwood on the back wall. A properly installed light will give the entire composition a complete and original look.

Soil selection

Particular attention should be paid to the soil, as it:

• Gives the aquarium individuality and attractive appearance;
• Serves as a filter into which various microparticles fall (be sure to include bottom snails in the discusser);
• Creates conditions for the proliferation of necessary bacteria and fungi;
• Maintains biological balance.

The best soil to place in an aquarium is sand or gravel, laid in a thin layer.

An ideally selected soil should not contain admixtures of various rocks or minerals, as they may contain substances that will cause fish poisoning. Quartz soil is excellent - it is neutral and will cause harm. Sometimes soil is not used at all, as it complicates the cleaning process. And a high degree of water purity is vital for discus.

Aquarium equipment

Sharp changes in temperature are contraindicated for fish that live in subtropical climates; to maintain the required parameters, it is necessary to use an aquarium heater. It’s easy to use – you just need to set the required temperature. The heater will heat up to the set parameter and keep the water optimally warm.

The following equipment is also required:

• Internal filter – necessary for purifying water in a small aquarium;
• An external filter is worth purchasing if the aquarium volume is more than 300 liters. This filter is well suited for an aquarium with discus fish, because it does not create a current;
• Compressor – serves for aeration of water;
• Aquarium lamp – properly selected artificial lighting will help create a cozy, comfortable atmosphere;
• An ultraviolet lamp is necessary to purify water from harmful microorganisms.

Aquarium equipment helps to facilitate care and create the necessary conditions for growth and reproduction.

Subtleties of laying eggs and feeding offspring

Discus fish at the age of 2 years are already capable of reproduction. The female lays up to 250 eggs, but the male, as a rule, takes care of the future offspring. Sometimes the parents do this together, and only in exceptional cases does a particularly responsible mother take upon herself all the care of the eggs and fry.

The incubation period lasts from 2 to 4 days. After 3-4 days the fry can swim, but they become completely independent much later. For a month, “baby food” is provided by special secretions on the skin of mom and dad. The fry methodically clean the surface of the skin of one of the parents and then move on to the other. This short respite is enough for the male or female to “make” the next portion of “baby food”.

Attention! Sometimes parents do not have nutrient secretions. This leads to the death of all offspring.

Mom and dad can quarrel over the kids. In this case, it is better to separate the fighters with a transparent partition that does not reach the bottom by about 1 cm. Through the gap left, the “children” will visit each of the parents in turn, and the adults will not be able to harm each other. The parents can be removed after the fry stop feeding on the secretions.

Discus diseases

If you maintain hygiene in the aquarium, regularly change the water and eat a properly varied diet, discus rarely get sick. A healthy fish has a bright, rich color, is well-fed and eats food well. Refusal to feed should be the first sign that your discus is unhealthy. In addition, it is important to notice in time any rashes on the skin, as well as changes in the consistency of excrement. In any case, the fish must be quarantined immediately.

For these purposes, it is recommended to have a special aquarium at your disposal. The general aquarium is also treated for three days with metronidazole, which is added to the water at the rate of 0.25 g per fifty liters. The water temperature rises to 33-34 degrees. After five days, with daily water changes, the medicine is completely filtered out, and then it is recommended to repeat the treatment. A total of three aquarium treatments should be carried out. In addition, treatment with metronidazole is carried out in the aquarium twice a year for general disease prevention.

The most common cause of disease is poor aquarium cleanliness and feeding regime.

• Hexamitosis or hole disease is a widespread disease among fish, often affecting the skin of representatives of Cichlids. The causative agents of this disease are intestinal flagellates. Symptoms: dark color of scales, passivity, hides in corners and does not swim with the school. Treatment with antibiotics Mitronidazole and Ciprofloxacin, in case of advanced diseases and the appearance of abscesses on the skin, self-lubrication of wounds with antibiotic agents helps.
• Damage to internal organs by bacterial infections. Symptoms of discus disease: the appearance of a whitish coating on the gills, fins, darker color, lack of appetite, cloudiness of the iris and pupil of the eyes. Treatment with antibiotics.
• Diseases of the intestines and gastrointestinal tract. The main reason is the use of low-quality feed. Symptoms manifest themselves in lack of appetite, passivity, and lethargy of the inhabitants. For treatment, food is replaced with better and more suitable food.
• Due to poor nutrition, another disease is detected - ascites or dropsy. During illness, the pet's abdomen swells. Treatment is selected depending on the causative agent of the disease.
• Endoparasites, exoparasites. Of these, the most common are fluke worms, which appear due to poor living conditions.

HOW TO CARE FOR SCALARIA IN THE AQUARIUM

HOW TO CARE FOR CICHLID FRIENDS?

SCALARY GREEN ANGEL DESCRIPTION REPRODUCTION PHOTO CONTENTS

How to start feeding "discus"

At about 5-7 days the fry can begin to be fed. “Live dust” - tiny microorganisms - is suitable for this. Experts advise choosing live red dust - this will make it easier to control the feeding of the fry. If the fish take bait well, their bellies will turn noticeably red.

The fry should be fed often, but in small portions. From the moment complementary feeding begins, it is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the water: the slightest deviation in composition or transparency can lead to the death of the offspring.

Discus. Maintenance in aquarium conditions

Discus fish are characterized by a gregarious lifestyle, so usually 5-7 heads or even more are populated into the aquarium at the same time. They are not aggressive towards other fish, but they can compete with each other. Most aquarium lovers advise providing them with separate maintenance. Some believe that aggression occurs due to the increased temperature characteristics of the aquatic environment. This is not true; it is quite possible to find a large number of species that are ready to enjoy the soft, heated water environment. The risk is that often the same angelfish spread invasions and pathogens that in no way manifest themselves in other fish, but have an incredibly negative effect on discus fish. But this pet is not cheap and requires greater reliability. In addition, some benthic species, especially various locariaceae, who like to rip off secretions from the skin of the flat body of discus fish, often cause significant harm to the fish, leaving scrapings and large spots on the body. It is best to create natural conditions in the aquarium: dim the brightness, glue a black background surface and place a fruit snag in the pond. There is a common belief that there should be no vegetation in a container with discus fish. This is a misconception. It’s just that in a densely planted aquarium environment it is difficult to perform a high-quality siphoning of the soil layer, which can affect the purity of the aquatic environment, to which sumphozodons are so sensitive. It is also necessary to use specialized varieties of aquatic vegetation; they will become filled with greenery and delight the eye even at elevated temperatures. And yet the selection participants are available: Cryptocoryne Bartera, Amazon, Ammania or the magnificent red Barclay. Plants are a natural biological filter and a pleasing pearl for the entire water surface of the aquarium, but you should not overdo it with “gardening”; you need to preserve free spaces for your pets to move freely. Illumination that will suit the vegetation and will not confuse exotic residents is 0.4-0.5 watts per liter.

What food is best to feed before and during spawning?

Dry food will not provide adequate nutrition for the male and female. You can stick to live food from tubifex, bloodworms, shrimp and other marine life, but they are often contaminated with intestinal parasites. It is safer to use ready-made mixtures with a sufficient amount of protein, vitamins and chitin additives from the German company Discusfood:

• Turkey Heart Discus Food soft kibble is suitable as a sole source of nutrition;
• fry food Breeder Starter I & II;
• American Cichlids soft granules;
• Beef Heart paste corrects energy metabolism and psychological state of fish.

When caring for eggs and larvae, discus should be fed in small portions so that not a crumb remains. If you give the fish too much food, you will have to clean up the “remnants of the feast” later, but this is absolutely forbidden. Future parents are sensitive to personal space and with any intervention they can take extreme measures: eat caviar or larvae.

Best food for discus

Day by Day Discus Food 2800
More details

Beef heart Paste Daily

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Turkey Heart Discus Food

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Breeder Starter I & II

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American Cichlids – Color Soft Pearls

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Artemia 50% Flat Granulate

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How to keep and care for discus fish

All discus are very peaceful and calm fish that eat slowly and live in warm water, compared to many aquarium representatives. This creates certain difficulties for other species to colonize them. Discus fish live in groups of 6, so the best option for keeping them is a species aquarium.

Only a person who has been working with aquarium fish for a long time will be able to create ideal conditions for the habitat of this species and get offspring from them. Frequent problems in keeping discus fish are their susceptibility to disease and the resulting stress when moving. These factors should be taken into account in advance: choose the right food and a comfortable aquarium with a suitable water temperature.

We will create optimal conditions

The most important requirement will be to populate a flock of at least 6 pieces. The size of the discus suggests that the aquarium will need 200-250 liters. They do not do well alone, so keeping them in a pack will be the first step to success.

It is also necessary to highlight the following care recommendations:

1. Pure water. Up to 30% of the water should be changed per week.
2. The soil may not be used if plants are planted in the future.
3. Plants are needed to absorb organic matter from water. Thus, they significantly improve the habitat for discus fish.
4. Lighting should not be bright.
5. Filtration required. The choice of external or internal device depends on convenience and specific cases.

Water purification is carried out using ultraviolet radiation, and for experienced aquarists it is recommended to use ozonation. For fish lovers who can afford high costs, it is recommended to purchase high-tech equipment, consisting of complex filters and various devices for monitoring and testing water characteristics.

Compatibility

If you decide to populate your aquarium with more than just discus fish, then you need to pay special attention to choosing neighbors for your fish, taking into account their compatibility.

First of all, you need to take into account the water temperature, which can be quite uncomfortable for many tropical fish. In addition, we must take into account the slowness of discus fish, which, surrounded by nimble neighbors, may turn out to be hungry.

It is known that discus get along well with tetras, apistograms, as well as small freshwater stingrays and other tropical non-aggressive fish species, for which a temperature of 27-30 degrees is comfortable. At the same time, experts in the field of aquariums are of the opinion that the best option for discus fish is a species aquarium.

Description of the breed

Discus is a large fish with a disc-shaped body. The length of individuals varies from 15 to 25 cm and depends on what variety they belong to. If you compare it with other cichlids, you will notice that discus fish have compressed sides, more than others, and because of this feature the fish got their name.

Today there are many species that differ from each other in color; it is quite difficult to describe them all. In addition, the variety of colors is truly amazing. But the most popular are the following breed varieties:

1. Pigeon blood is a Thai hybrid obtained by crossing the turquoise striped discus and the red turkis. The main color of the scales is white, with longitudinal red stripes in the form of waves. The fins are also decorated with stripes - red and white. Another feature of pigeon blood discus is its red eyes.
2. Pigeon is a fish whose eyes resemble blood-red rubies. Earlier individuals were covered in pigmented black spots, but through selective breeding they were bred out. The color of the pidgeons has become more harmonious and uniform.
3. Blue diamond - the body of the fish is tall, round, strongly flattened. Wild individuals have an even, pale bluish coloration and red eyes. They were actively used in breeding work, and they gave rise to many breed varieties. Among the aquarium representatives there are both plain blue fish and those with blue scales.
4. Snakeskin is a fish with an extravagant color: its light body is covered with a large number of small red specks, which makes it look like the skin of a snake. The fish was bred in Thailand, based on the blue discus.
5. Leopard - these individuals were the result of crossing a green discus and a red turkis. The original leopard coloring was formed from red spots scattered on a white background. These are large representatives of the species, growing up to 20 cm. “Leopards” have one feature - they are sensitive to lighting.
6. Heckel's discus - has a calm, beige-pink color with turquoise stripes. There are vertical dark stripes around the body, the eyes are black-brown and practically do not stand out.
7. Green discus is a fish with a greenish-brown body decorated with 9 dark stripes. Horizontal lines of turquoise color are located horizontally, they converge in the abdomen area, creating a solid color scheme. The color is not permanent and can vary from yellow to reddish hues.
8. Cobalt - individuals have a blue body covered with stripes; this variation is considered classic. Often there are fish with a stripe running along the line of the eyes. With age, the stripes gradually fade and disappear.
9. Marlboro Red - the color of the fish contains red or orange tones, there are several white stripes.

From the editor: =Treatment and diseases of aquarium fish=

This is only a small part of the discus species. Modern breeders never cease to amaze, producing fish with brighter and more unusual colors. For example, you can find the “pigeon blood” species with the “checkerboard” color, “golden melon” discus, “golden albino”, “super red passion” and others.

But selective crossbreeding, although it made the fish unusually beautiful, had a negative impact on their immunity, weakening it. Their wild counterparts are stronger and more unpretentious.

Since the study of the existence of fish in aquariums began, fish breeders have become more and more interested in breeding them. At the same time, in breeding biology we encounter various forms and processes. Some species of fish even belong to the so-called pseudomammals. Their feeding period suggests a special stage of development. They allow us to make amazing observations of the process of caring for and feeding swimming fry. Discus breeding is particularly interesting from many points of view and is therefore a subject of special observation.

In the twenties of our century, the first discus were exported from South America; it was believed that this fish did not pose problems in breeding, that it, just like angelfish, could be bred in the usual way. However, it was only in the thirties that the first breeding experiments were successful in the United States. In 1935, discus were propagated under artificial conditions for the first time. Angelfish breeder Armbruster of Philadelphia incubated the eggs and raised 50 discus fry in the same manner as the angelfish. This was the only successful case of discus breeding. All the rest had a sad outcome. Spawning took place in a 270-liter aquarium. It was noted that discus is a special fish; discus breeding is covered in numerous secrets.

Complex and long routes for importing fish made it possible to import very small quantities into other countries, and twenty years later the same pursuit of discus began, which continues to this day. During the fifties, discus imports became more frequent, and advances in breeding allowed the study of the interesting biology of discus breeding to begin. Many secrets of keeping and breeding discus were discovered even then, despite this, there are still many mysteries around discus.

Fish do not need special preparation for spawning. An important point in the matter of discus breeding, along with the size of the aquarium, is the quality of the water. Along with a minimum amount of minerals, the water should react slightly acidic, that is, in accordance with the type of fish and the form of breeding, the pH value should be from 5.5 to 6.2. At the same time, slightly lower PH values ​​act as an excitation factor and stimulator of discus spawning. Another important prerequisite for the healthy development of eggs is not too fresh, healthy, bacteria-free prepared water, which is purified with a good filter.

Healthy development of eggs can only occur when the females, thanks to good care and a varied diet, lay healthy and developmental eggs, which are fertilized by the correspondingly healthy sperm of the male.

Often the eggs die due to the spawning process being too fast. Despite successful fertilization, after just a few hours, they dissolve inside the shell and are brought out. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that spawning is not too frequent. A time period of three to four weeks seems optimal and guarantees healthy development of the eggs. After some time, the dead eggs are white, but not covered with fungus. They should not be confused with curled coagulated eggs, which are laid by the female after they have died and are also white in color. These eggs do not lead to infection of nearby eggs by the fungus, as previously thought. Their outer shell is smooth and, compared to infected eggs, does not have a fungal fuzz.

Eggs infected with the fungus appear after 48 - 55 hours, unless water untreated from bacteria speeds up this process. The death of healthy fertilized eggs has many reasons. Water and its indicators are of great importance. If the breeding water contains too many minerals, that is, it is too hard or the pH is too low or high, the eggs will mostly die.

Between the egg shell and the yolk ball with the embryo there is a narrow empty space, which is filled with water through the egg shell during the spawning process.

Therefore, the contents of the eggs can separate from the shell of the eggs and move, and the concentration of the aquarium water and the contents of the eggs are equalized. If the surrounding water contains too many minerals, the eggs will dry out as water is drawn out of them. If the water, on the contrary, contains too few minerals, then the eggs swell and burst. In both cases they die.

In general, the size and volume of the aquarium are second in importance when it comes to discus breeding, but the aquarium should not be too small and match the size of the discus.

The light should be slightly dimmed rather than too bright. Most often there is nothing at the bottom, because it is easier to maintain cleanliness and monitor the permissible amount of bacteria in the water. The water temperature for reproduction should be 29-30 degrees Celsius. It is important that the area around the aquarium is calm. A nervous atmosphere and fuss are absolutely undesirable when breeding discus.

When pairing discus fish, you should pay attention to who harmonizes with whom, or allow pairs to choose each other. If the choice of males and females is not enough, then if there is only one pair of discus, you need to be patient and hope. In this case, despite the best preconditions, the discus spawning process can be expected for a long time.

Is there anything additional that can be done to breed discus? You can try to achieve this in two ways. Just like it happens in nature. On the one hand, this can be done by changing the feed, and on the other hand, by changing the water. Just as it happens in nature. Due to the changing seasons of rain and drought, changes in water lead the fish to begin spawning. But the water changes don't have to be that significant. This can be achieved quite easily by simply changing good quality water. And we have already done almost everything that can stimulate the spawning of discus. This is reflected very noticeably in their behavior. Discus fish begin to swim near each other, look for a partner, pay attention to the partner and their readiness to mate by moving their fins and shaking their bodies. They begin to look for a suitable surface for the eggs and clean it. This process is constantly interrupted by communication with the approaching partner, and by the body’s own trembling. In this case, you can observe the probable appearance of a yellow or light throat. All this can be caused by changing the feed or by changing the water, which is most optimal, by changing both factors.

Discus is a fish that watches its eggs; discus spawn on the surface of a durable substrate. They prefer inclined, even vertical, surfaces for this. Surfaces made of baked clay of various shapes are accepted with pleasure as a substrate for spawning.

Sometimes discus fish lay eggs on the side surfaces of the aquarium. Very rarely on a vertical bottom surface.

We are supporters of well-purified old water, which must be biologically impeccable.

Spawning (discus spawning) most often occurs in the afternoon or very early evening on a solid substrate that has been previously cleaned by the parents. It is likely that the parents determine when the embryos will appear. Depending on the temperature and water characteristics, the period within the egg development until the embryo emerges takes from 55 to 65 hours. This means that from eggs fertilized around noon, embryos appear by the evening of the second day, and even before darkness sets in. If fertilization occurs in the evening and at low temperatures, the embryos will appear early in the morning of the third day. Emerging from the eggs at night in the dark would be disastrous for the fry in the natural environment, because the parents would not be able to collect them.

Adult discus fish lay a fairly large number of eggs, with 200 eggs not uncommon. The egg size is approximately 1.4 millimeters long and 1.2 millimeters in diameter. The egg, like the globe, has two poles and an equator. At the upper pole there is a microscopic funnel-shaped depression in the membrane of the membrane, which is very important for the fertilization process. This is where fertilization occurs with the male's sperm.

Discus fish glue the eggs with the long side to the substrate; a very thin layer of mucus forms around the equator of the egg, with the help of which the egg is firmly glued.

Spawning is the beginning of the reproductive process. In this case, the female discus swims from bottom to top, tightly touching the substrate, and lays eggs one by one, which are then immediately fertilized by the seed of the male, who swims in turn, also tightly touching the eggs from bottom to top.

At the same time, there should be no strong water movement in the aquarium, which can create a powerful filter (therefore, in spawning tanks we recommend using airlift filters).

The female discus spawns from bottom to top in one direction, so that the eggs are arranged in funnel-shaped depressions towards the top. Typically, the male fertilizes the eggs after each visit by the female, and the released sperm must try to reach the funnel-shaped opening in the egg for fertilization to occur. The male's seed only lives for 30 seconds, so during this time they must get inside the egg. Strong water movement can interfere with this process. The process of penetration of the seed into the egg begins the process of the birth of a new generation.

Spawning in discus fish lasts on average 70 minutes. Then begins the period of caring for the eggs, the so-called incubation of the eggs by the parents. At the same time, they are nearby, sometimes taking turns, and move their fins so that a light water current is directed towards the eggs, thus achieving a good supply of oxygen. In addition, the movement of water prevents dirt and microorganisms from adhering to the eggs and, consequently, their destruction. At the same time, parents watch their future offspring very carefully.

At this time and subsequent days, low night lighting is necessary for better orientation of parents. After successful fertilization, the embryo begins to develop, and the countdown begins.

At an advanced stage, they speak of writhing (wrinkling), when the embryo separates from the yolk body and remains connected to it only at the edges. The empty space that appears inside is called a wrinkle cavity. Until this moment, the embryo is still completely homogeneous. Visually, one can only guess where the head and tail of the embryo will appear. The healthy nutritional mass of the yolk, covered with bubbles of fat, is clearly visible. The need for oxygen is satisfied by the shell of the eggs from the surrounding water.

Already a day after fertilization, you can find out how suitable the environment, water, its temperature and other characteristics are for the emergence of a new healthy life.

If something goes wrong, then many or all of the fertilized eggs die. The yolk coagulates and the germ mass dissolves. The life that has already arisen dies.

At this time, significant changes can be noticed in healthy, normal eggs.

Forty hours after fertilization, the first tender life inside the egg can be seen. The embryonic fluid is pumped through the emerging body. The first signs of a forming embryo are already noticeable with a thickening in the area of ​​the future head and an embryonic core, a future tail. The internal contents of the eggs become noticeably darker.

Parents now observe the development of eggs even more carefully. Sometimes they try to remove dead eggs from the general mass, but, unfortunately, this also removes healthy neighboring eggs. To prevent this from happening to particularly “zealous” parents, we install a net so that they cannot reach the eggs.

50 hours after fertilization, a critical phase begins in the care of discus offspring. By this time, the powerful process of embryo development is clearly visible inside the egg. It is already possible to distinguish the thickening of the head, the embryonic core and the yolk ball. Also, the not yet pigmented sockets of the eyes become noticeable.

A small heart beats between the head and the yolk mass. The extra-embryonic part of the embryo has already outgrown the yolk mass and contributes to the formation of space for the body. After 55 hours, the embryo becomes active, and the first gentle movements of the body can be seen inside the egg shell. All these movements signal to parents about the emergence of life. If there are no signals, the eggs seem to stop “ringing,” no development occurs, and the parents, without thinking twice, devour them.

With successful development, after 60 hours the membrane begins to interfere with the development of the embryo and increasingly strong movements can be observed inside. In this case, the embryo, with the help of a strong movement of the tail, tries to turn over inside the shell.

These tail blows, after some time, lead to the breaking of the shell and direct contact with the new environment - water. However, the tense period is not over yet. If development proceeds successfully after 55–65 hours and leads to rupture of the shell, then within another 1–2 hours the shell is destroyed near the head so that the embryo finally becomes an irrevocably real discus fry.

An important natural feature is that the shell remains on the fry for some time, because the holding glands on the head of the fry now come into action, which should then hold it on the substrate. The time of this exhausting struggle for life is shortened by the parents, who collect the fry from the shells using their mouths and leave them hanging on the substrate, glued in place of the head glands.

It is assumed that the first contact with the parents' mouth has a disinfecting, that is, destroying bacteria, effect. This ends this phase of the fry’s development.

The head and anal region, as well as the tail shafts, are observed in progressive development. The heart artery, directly under the head, pumps blood with all its might throughout the fry’s entire body. And now, even with poor water quality, the death of the fry may occur. Already dead eggs that are not destroyed by the parents gradually dissolve; protozoa accelerate this process. Sometimes the shells open and the dead yolk mass comes out. Only the empty egg shell remains, but this is then destroyed by bacteria and protozoa. The dead, fungus-covered eggs are now clearly visible. Healthy fry continue to develop.

Four days after fertilization, eye development can be clearly discerned.

You can already see the mouth and gill slits. A small heart pumps blood throughout the body without stopping. The resulting anus and tail of the discus fry can be clearly distinguished. You can also see blood vessels penetrating the yolk mass. During this period, parents often outweigh the fry. Small discus fish are becoming more and more active. At the same time, the fastening mucus produced by discus fish is put to the test. Six glands produce this mucus, which protrudes from the top of the head in the form of fibers and holds the fry to the substrate. There they weigh alone or in groups and, thanks to their intense movement, create the movement of water that brings oxygen. Five days after fertilization, at a water temperature of 29–30 degrees, the development of the fry has advanced significantly. The pupil is already pigmented, the head, and parts of the body already have dark spots and streaks. The mouth and gills form, the heart beats even faster. The grown embryonic rod and tail already have a clearly defined posterior and lower edge of the fin. The dorsal fin, however, is still missing. At this stage of development, the fry can hardly stay on the substrate due to their increasingly powerful movements. But even at this stage, if the water quality is poor, death of the fry or abnormal development may occur. This includes, for example, deformation of the voids of the body, heart, or spine.

For the most part, the parents devour such fry, or they end up at the bottom of the aquarium.

The normal development of the fry ends after 6 days.

The head with eyes, mouth and gills are fully formed and are ready for work. The yolk mass is completely consumed. The length of the fry is now 5 millimeters. The forehead glands now cease their activity and close over the following days. This ends the passive stage of the fry.

The offspring begins to swim independently. The time required for all offspring to become capable of independent movement may take several more hours. Swimming discus fry need their first meal. It is located in the epidermis of the parents, which is very thickened by this time. In the first days, this is most likely the only food. The presence of such nutrition is a necessary condition for the life and subsequent development of the fry. Often in this case they talk about mucus (discus milk), which forms on the epidermis, on the outer surface of the skin of the parents. This mucus is eaten by the fry.

The feeding of the fry after birth with the substance of the parents' own bodies is a tremendous development in the animal world. Due to this, discus pups receive more freedom, because independence is achieved from the availability of the food that is available in the environment where they were born. The perfect solution to the problem of nutrition that was achieved by mammals naturally had its predecessors. This is the experience of nature on the way to becoming mammals. Everything is perfectly organized with them.

In discus, the upper part of the skin cells turns into gland cells, and through secretion they produce the so-called milk. The food supplied to the parents contains carbohydrates, fats and proteins in low concentrations and in a balanced combination, which optimally matches the capabilities of the digestive tract of the fry, which is still very unstable. The epidermis, capable of feeding, also contains immunological components that strengthen the defense system of the body of the fry.

It should not be forgotten that the bacteria and algae that were on the epidermis of the parents are transferred to the fry. There are often difficulties in finding food, when the fry do not swim to their parents and die of hunger in the corner of the aquarium. Little is known about the factors that cause juveniles to move toward their parents. Perhaps this is the dark coloration of the parents by that time. Often, by mistake, fry swim to dark-colored elements of the aquarium. If the first contact is made, then after this the fry most often remain with their parents, and rarely leave them.

During the first days, small discus fish do not accept other food. In naturally well-lit aquariums, discus fish already swimming can be seen around the spawning substrate, and microorganisms from the substrate are likely to be absorbed. At this time, somewhere on the 4th - 5th day, you can begin to additionally feed the fry with brine shrimp.

This fact will certainly have a positive effect on the growth rate of fish. But even if the food these days comes only from the parents, you can also see good growth of the fry. First of all, the optimal quality of the water is important; now you can add fresh water without fear.

There are different opinions about how long fry can be kept with their parents. On the one hand, it would seem that the sooner the better, since this will prevent the transmission of parasites from older to younger. On the other hand, food carried by the parents can be provided to the fry around the clock. At the same time, the fry receive more uniform and constant nutrition. We separate children and parents after about two weeks. As already mentioned, on days 4–5 we begin feeding with artemia, and on days 10–12, as a rule, we separate the babies from their parents.

Artemia (Artemia salina) are fairly large saltwater crustaceans, the size of which in adulthood reaches 10 mm in length. The distribution area of ​​Artemia is extremely wide - in our country from the estuaries of the Azov Sea to Transbaikalia. In aquarium practice, the greatest use is found in Artemi nauplii - the larvae that have just hatched from their eggs. There are several species of Artemia known to live both in North America and throughout Eurasia. The salinity of water in the reservoirs that it inhabits in some cases reaches up to 300 ppm (that is, 300 grams of salt per liter of water), but is usually significantly less. Artemia are typical filter feeders - passing huge masses of water and silt through themselves, they eat various aquatic microorganisms, algae and other nutritional objects. Depending on the diet, the color of brine shrimp can vary from greenish to brick red.

With proper preparation, nauplii can be hatched within 24 hours, which is very convenient; for a constant supply of food, you can run several incubators and by starting them at daily intervals, you will always have fresh food available.

Artemia nauplii are used to feed the fry of many species of spawning fish; fortunately, the size of the newly hatched nauplii is such that in some cases it allows even small fry to be fed with them from the first day of active feeding.

Young fry grow very quickly if fed sufficiently with brine shrimp and good water quality. After some time, their total length doubles. If possible, feeding should be done 6 to 8 times a day at equal intervals. You need to try to ensure that Artemia is in the aquarium with discus fish almost always. Necessary measures also include regular removal of fish waste and food debris, as well as replacing part of the water with fresh water. Soon the appearance of the fry changes. They change their body shape and after 2 weeks they are fast growing typical small discus fish. Ampullaria snails (they are excellent at eating leftover food that is not eaten by the fry) would be useful in a nursery aquarium.

These days, they begin to eat food from the bottom and at the same time a certain independence. Although young fry still look for their parents for food and protection, this connection is becoming less and less every day.

Further care for the fry is not a problem. They have already developed quite a lot recently, but the food particles should not be too large, because discus have too small a mouth, they are often inept in the process of eating. And during this period you should also feed the fish 6 – 8 times a day. A varied diet is important, and food organisms should be crushed if necessary.

Frozen food should be thawed and washed cleanly; it is advisable to remove food residues and fish secretions as often as possible. We must not forget about replacing the water, and the connected filter should help remove emerging harmful substances.

It is through careful care, especially in the first weeks of life, that the little creatures grow into magnificent, healthy discus fish. Errors and omissions that occurred in the first days and weeks of the fry’s life can very rarely be corrected later. Poor water quality, monotonous and overly economical food will soon make themselves felt.

Healthy, optimally grown discus fish should reach a length of 6 centimeters at three months of age. Not all discus species are the same in size and shape at this time, but this is the size to strive for.

In conclusion, it is necessary to note the fact that each adult discus definitely has its own character. More than once I had to observe the sometimes incomprehensible, strange behavior of fish. First of all, this applies to the behavior of couples. It happens when a couple has been successfully raising fry for a long time, and at one point they get torn apart and fight until they knock out each other’s eyes. It is not known how this would have ended if they had not been seated. In the next case, a very caring mother suddenly began to devour her fry. It happens that fish come together in a common aquarium as a male and a female, and later it turns out that they are both females, one of which imitated the role of a male. Sometimes the male and female disappear into the corners for completely unknown reasons, and are never interested in each other again, well, just like with people. There were many more interesting things that happened that you will probably encounter when breeding discus fish.

Discus has special claims. Its constitution and biological properties make it something special in nature and in the aquarium. They were and remain, in the opinion of many, the most beautiful freshwater fish, and are rightfully a challenge for every fish farmer and hobbyist, and it is not for nothing that they bear the majestic title of king of the aquarium.

To summarize, it is important to take into account some features:

1. There is no need to make a pair yourself, the fish will find each other themselves, you will understand this right away. They will begin to swim together, bow, and later peck at the substrate and drive away other fish.
2. After this behavior, the fish should be placed in a separate aquarium.
3. The temperature for reproduction should be 29-30 degrees Celsius.
4. Water parameters should be ph – 5.5-6.5 gh 2-4 electrical conductivity 70-90 µs
5. After the female lays eggs, it is advisable to leave the light on overnight.
6. Be sure to keep the spawning tank clean.
7. Start feeding the fry with Artemia on the 5th – 6th day.
8. The fry should be fed 6–8 times a day.
9. After 3 months, switch to 5–6 meals a day.

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