Echinodorus Aflame

Breeding

In aquarium conditions, Echinodorus ruby ​​is bred by dividing the rhizome or using daughter plants that appear on the flower shoot. In the first case, part of the rhizome is released from the soil and a part of it is cut off obliquely with a sharp knife, making sure to grab a couple of leaves from the mother bush. If everything is done correctly, the new plant will grow relatively quickly. You can also cut off the part of the root without leaves. In this case, it is necessary to leave it floating on the surface of the water until small leaves and roots appear on it, and then plant it in the ground. It should be noted that this method of breeding can take a long time. The plant is also propagated using an inflorescence, on which, in addition to whorls of flowers, there is a large number of daughter plants.

Signs of improper cultivation

According to breeders, this plant is not demanding and unpretentious. But the maintenance of Echinodorus Maghreb does not tolerate gross mistakes that may arise due to improper care. The main condition for normal growth is regular washing of the soil and replacement of water. Photos with the names of aquarium plants attract with beauty and simplicity at the same time.

Otherwise, the aquarium ecosystem will quickly begin to age. These are unsuitable conditions for growth. The first signs indicating improper plant development include:

• growth arrest;
• throwing out needle-shaped leaves;
• the vegetation of the bush becomes smaller.

These signs indicate unsatisfactory growing conditions. It is urgent to eliminate the cause of what is happening, otherwise the plant may die altogether.

Echinodorus "Red Devil"

Currently, more than 100 species of various echinodorus are known, and Echinodorus “Red Devil” is a prominent representative of this family. The plant itself is unusual. It was obtained by crossing Echinodorus uruguayensis with Echinodorus Red Flame in the German nursery “ZOOLogiCa” by the well-known botanist Red Devil. The plant turned out to be very attractive and gained great popularity among aquarists. The plant appears on the shelves of domestic pet stores quite rarely and this is primarily due to the fact that Echinodorus “Red Devil” was recently imported into our country.

Echinodorus 'Red Devil' has lance-shaped leaves growing from a rosette. As the leaves grow, they curl in a spiral. The young leaves are especially beautiful, with a rich ruby ​​red color. Thanks to this coloring of the leaves, the plant got its name - “Red Devil”.

Due to the increased decorativeness of this type of Echinodorus, the bush can be planted almost anywhere in the aquarium and everywhere it will be in perfect harmony with the background of other plants. Echinodorus “Red Devil” will look especially beautiful against the background of green plants, where its leaves will stand out clearly, giving the interior design of the aquarium landscape a unique look. The growth rate is average. Depending on the conditions of maintenance, the bush of the plant reaches a height of 8-20 cm and a width of 15-25 cm.

The water parameters for maintaining the plant should be the following: temperature 20-30°C, hardness dH 1-30°, acidity pH 5.0-8.0. Feeding with liquid microfertilizers and CO2 is necessary (recommended, but not essential). Sand can be used as soil. It is advisable to place several lumps of clay under the roots of the plant. The soil should be nutritious and well silted. In good soil, Echinodorus "Red Devil" grows much faster.

The lighting should be bright, with an intensity of 0.5 W/l. The duration of daylight is at least 10 hours a day.

The plant is propagated by daughter bushes that appear on the peduncle or by dividing its rhizomes. The plant has a rather powerful rhizome, from which you can cut off a part and the result will not take long - very soon young shoots will appear from it, giving life to a new plant.

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Echinodorus Nazgul

Echinodorus Nazgul photo
Echinodorus Nazgul is a breeding form of Igor Filippov.

Its new leaf is stunningly beautiful, but it begins to turn green very quickly. The leaf has not yet fully emerged, but its tip has already turned green. The plant is powerful - up to 50 cm tall. The peduncle is also a beautiful pink-raspberry color, and the cone on it is almost white, but then it all turns green. Growth rate is average.

Echinodorus Nazgul photo

Echinodorus are very “hardy” plants. But it is still desirable that the water parameters be comfortable, here they are: temperature 22-27 degrees, dH up to 10, pH 6.5-7.5, intense lighting from 60 Lm/l+, CO2 supply will also have a beneficial effect on the plant habit . Filtration, aeration, and water changes are required when containing echinodorus.

Echinodorus Nazgul photo

In general, Echinodorus can live without additional mineral fertilizers. However, we all know what a lack, as well as an excess of macro and micro elements, leads to! Therefore, we believe that a moderate nutrient substrate or root tablets such as Tetra Planta Crypto and/or liquid macro and micro fertilizers .

Echinodorus Nazgul photo

The issue of lighting is very important for Echinodorus . Any small or large Echinodorus loves intense lighting ~ from 60 Lm/l. Of course, a lot depends on the type and conditions of maintenance, but in general, like any plant, Echinodorus prefers a mixed source of lighting with the creation of “sunrise-zenith-sunset”; this can be achieved with complex light panels or, for example, using T5 fluorescent lamps separately and say LED spotlights. The length of daylight hours is also an individual question, the general guideline is 6-12 hours.

Echinodorus Nazgul video review

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PRACTICAL NOTE ON GROWING AQUARIUM PLANTS

This note is posted in all FanFishka articles dedicated to aquarium plants. This is a cheat sheet with a link that will help you grow any aquarium plant and herbalist of any complexity.

Most of the reference materials are located in the Aquascape , we also recommend our brochure: Aquarium navigator for beginners: “Underwater Gardens of Babylon” .

The formula for success in growing plants can be depicted as follows.

First of all, the proper level of lighting is necessary.

(light intensity - Lumens)

Next, the proper concentration of CO2

Further macro-fertilizers and micro-fertilizers

Water parameters, care and quality water changes

The gradation of this formula is based on the degree of importance. Lighting intensity is primary, and then descending. Therefore, if your plants have holes in the leaves, they have sciatica (crooked) or there are problems with algae, then please do not read the “bad advice” - this is chlorosis (lack of iron), this is a lack of potassium... diarrhea, phimosis and endometriosis )

You always need to solve the problem of setting up an herbalist from major to minor. Plants will die more quickly from a lack of lighting than from a lack of Fe and K. Moreover, the latter are always present in one degree or another in the aquarium, but it is difficult to measure their precise value.

Below, let's go from the main to the minor.

Lighting in an aquarium with plants . Remember, the most important thing in light is its intensity (Lumens)! All other lighting characteristics: spectrum, Kelvin, PAR/PAR, Ra... are important, but secondary. There will be no intensity of lighting, there will be nothing. At the same time, the lighting intensity must be balanced - selected specifically for your project (height of the water column, number and types of plants, daylight hours).

Based on the above, choose aquarium lighting primarily by the number of lumens, and then everything else.

Lighting is the most expensive part. The most budget-friendly solution is to install ordinary construction-street floodlights above the aquarium . Fortunately, they are now very thin and aesthetic. And believe me, under them everything grows with a bang, of course, provided that all the other components are present.

In order not to be unfounded, here are photos of our herbalists, which were grown exclusively under LED spotlights or with their presence.

If you want professional lighting or aesthetics. Then you will have to fork out some money. The amounts can vary quickly from 10,000 to 50,000+ rubles for a 100 liter aquarium. For example, in 2021 we switched to professional lighting - ISTA Titan . Yes, not cheap, but the lamps are Achon! We have grown a professional competitive aquascape under them. That’s why we advise you to pay attention to them.

Well, it’s difficult to advise anything, because... Everyone has different needs and capabilities. In this article we talk about the products of our partners - Tetra , Laguna , ISTA lighting .

We tried to briefly and objectively talk about them. Then it's up to you. In any case, we do not really recommend that you pay attention to handicraft lighting assembly from folk craftsmen. Not all, but as a rule, they shove who knows what kind of diodes into such an assembly, assemble it all on their knees... and believe me, more than once on the forum you hear echoes of the consequences of such a purchase. After all, a company is a company. At a minimum, you are given warranty and post-warranty service.

If you are a beginner, your first herbalist, then LED spotlights are your choice. Let's move on, otherwise this note isn't very short =)

CO2 for aquarium plants . The plant is approximately 90% water, the remaining 10% is dry matter. Of that 10%, 46% is carbon. This is why CO2 supply is so important in a planted aquarium.

Plants in an aquarium obtain carbon “from water” - from carbon-containing compounds. But the natural concentration of C-carbon in water is small and is only sufficient for unpretentious plants, but they, and even more so, will be happy with additional carbon feeding. The supply of CO2 can be provided using mash or a CO2 balloon system , lemon juice or other methods.

The best, professional, simple and budget option is to supply carbon dioxide through a cylinder. One thing, however, is the initial purchase of a set: a cylinder, an MG valve, a diffuser…. will hit the budget.

Is it possible to do without CO2, but for a couple of bushes of simple plants ( cryptocorynes , echinodorus , most ludwigias , etc.).

What balloon systems can you recommend? The most budget option is an assembly from craftsmen who sell CO2 systems in VK and on forums. Everything is very high quality.

If you want a branded item, then we recommend the most inexpensive and at the same time high-quality CO2 systems from ISTA (Taiwan) . We have been using them for 5 years and recommend them to you.

On sale you will find two series of ISTA Aluminum CO2 Cylinder cylinders, with horizontal and vertical threads of 1 and 3 liters.

Fertilizers for an aquarium with plants . All fertilizers, of any brand, can be divided into MACRO-FERTILIZERS and MICRO-FERTILIZERS .

Macro fertilizers are nitrate NO3 and phosphate PO4 from which plants take N-nitrogen and P-phosphorus. These are the most important elements after CO2 - C-carbon.

Remember - Redfield's proportion rules . Always keep it under control and everything will be ok. Right, based on our observations, Redfield’s proportion rules only in full NPC proportions. Incomplete proportion - without carbon C does not give good results.

Micro fertilizers . These are all the other less important elements that are necessary for plants (see link). There is no point in putting too much emphasis on them. Firstly, all of them are contained in one quantity or another in tap water and are restored in the aquarium with changes. Secondly, an overdose of micro very quickly leads to an outbreak of algae.

A common mistake made by beginners is not understanding what they are pouring into the aquarium. For example, let's take such a popular and popular fertilizer as Tetra PlantaMin . Read the product summary at the link - it strengthens, stimulates, and gives a chic body shape.

A beginner, without delving into the essence, uses it and gets an outbreak of algae, writes on the forums - “Like, wow, what a bad Tetra.” And the trouble lies not in the drug, but in a lack of understanding of the nitrogen cycle and balance in the herbalist . The beginner has a Redfield bias (let’s say N and P are generally zero) and instead of making up for the lack of these primary elements, he fills the aquarium with Tetra PlantaMin - a micro-fertilizer (iron, potassium, manganese). As a result, going over the micro is only detrimental, because... plants lack the base - nitrogen and phosphorus.

Thus, you must understand what plants lack and understand fertilizers.

How to understand what plants lack? It's simple. Now the market is filled with a variety of expensive and not so expensive aquarium water tests. We recommend inexpensive domestic ones - VladOx drop tests , they are sold online and offline.

We also recommend, let’s not be afraid of this word, innovative domestic UHE tests . They are currently only sold online.

The minimum set of tests for an herbalist is NO3 and PO4. It is advisable to have the entire nitrogen range: NH4, NO2, NO3. As well as kH and pH tests.

Tests help us monitor the situation in the herbalist, but over time it is advisable to learn to see and feel the aquarium for yourself. With experience you need to move away from “convulsive testing”; the best aquarium test and tool is ourselves.

Let's summarize this part. Macro, it’s macro in Africa too. The link above generally contains a recipe on how to make them yourself. If you are not yet ready for self-mixing, then always and everywhere you will find a line of fertilizers from Tetra: Tetra Planta Macro , Tetra PlantaMicro , substrates, root tablets and much more .

Of course, there are many other brands that produce aquarium fertilizers. There is an opportunity, use even ADA products. All markers are different in taste and color. The main thing is to use it with a clear understanding of what you are using it for and what you want to get in the end.

From the professional line of fertilizers, at an adequate price, we can recommend Prodibo (soils, soils, macro, micro, stimulants, etc.).

So, something like a note turns into the Talmud. Which is not surprising - the topic is very broad. One moment left.

Water parameters for aquarium plants. Link1 and Link2 , please look at these articles, they cover the essence quite well.

Here we note that the quality of photosynthesis is influenced by the process of caring for the aquarium: water parameters (kH, pH below 7), high-quality filtration and aeration, competent and timely water changes.

Please study

How to plant correctly

When planting a plant, you need to follow certain rules:

• preparing bedding that silts well. In this case, sifted sand is ideal;
• mineral supplements and nutrients - optional, but not required. If they are used, then in limited quantities;
• mandatory quarantine before planting in the aquarium.

What is quarantine before disembarkation? Echinodorus tender is planted in a separate container in the soil that will be used in the aquarium; the plant needs to be kept in quarantine for 7 days. This is necessary in order to avoid infection of all aquarium crops and inhabitants in case of any lesions or diseases.

There are two options for planting the Dwarf Amazon:

1. Immediately before planting, a small excavation is made in the soil of the aquarium, very shallow. The rhizome of the plant is carefully placed in it.
2. The second option is to take the plant on a spatula or with your hands along with the soil in which Echinodorus tenderus was planted during quarantine. This method of planting is considered more preferable, since during a week-long quarantine the plant has time to take root and absorb all the beneficial microelements. And planting in a new environment, although identical, will still be stressful for the plant.

It is best to plant tender Echinodorus close to the walls, this will provide the best lighting necessary for the active growth and development of the plant.

Kinds

The most common ones are listed in the table.

Echinodorus Blechera

Echinodorus Dark Beauty

Echinodorus Dark Beauty photo
Echinodorus Dark Beauty (Echinodorus “Dark Beauty”) - a generation of Hans Barth hybrids. First appeared in 2008.

Echinodorus Dark Beauty is a small plant, grows ~ 20 cm, young leaves are bright burgundy, darkening with age. Undemanding to the composition of water, grows in both soft and hard water. However, to maintain the bright color of the leaves it needs strong lighting.

Echinodorus Dark Beauty photo

Echinodorus are very “hardy” plants. But it is still desirable that the water parameters be comfortable, here they are: temperature 22-27 degrees, dH up to 10, pH 6.5-7.5, intense lighting from 60 Lm/l+, CO2 supply will also have a beneficial effect on the plant habit . Filtration, aeration, and water changes are required when containing echinodorus.

Echinodorus Dark Beauty photo

In general, Echinodorus can live without additional mineral fertilizers. However, we all know what a lack, as well as an excess of macro and micro elements, leads to! Therefore, we believe that a moderate nutrient substrate or root tablets such as Tetra Planta Crypto and/or liquid macro and micro fertilizers .

Echinodorus Dark Beauty photo

Echinodorus Dark Beauty

The issue of lighting is very important for Echinodorus . Any small or large Echinodorus loves intense lighting ~ from 60 Lm/l. Of course, a lot depends on the type and conditions of maintenance, but in general, like any plant, Echinodorus prefers a mixed source of lighting with the creation of “sunrise-zenith-sunset”; this can be achieved with complex light panels or, for example, using T5 fluorescent lamps separately and say LED spotlights. The length of daylight hours is also an individual question, the general guideline is 6-12 hours.

Echinodorus Dark Beauty video review

Cool videos about plants from FanFishki

Subscribe to our YouTube channel so you don't miss anything

PRACTICAL NOTE ON GROWING AQUARIUM PLANTS

This note is posted in all FanFishka articles dedicated to aquarium plants. This is a cheat sheet with a link that will help you grow any aquarium plant and herbalist of any complexity.

Most of the reference materials are located in the Aquascape , we also recommend our brochure: Aquarium navigator for beginners: “Underwater Gardens of Babylon” .

The formula for success in growing plants can be depicted as follows.

First of all, the proper level of lighting is necessary.

(light intensity - Lumens)

Next, the proper concentration of CO2

Further macro-fertilizers and micro-fertilizers

Water parameters, care and quality water changes

The gradation of this formula is based on the degree of importance. Lighting intensity is primary, and then descending. Therefore, if your plants have holes in the leaves, they have sciatica (crooked) or there are problems with algae, then please do not read the “bad advice” - this is chlorosis (lack of iron), this is a lack of potassium... diarrhea, phimosis and endometriosis )

You always need to solve the problem of setting up an herbalist from major to minor. Plants will die more quickly from a lack of lighting than from a lack of Fe and K. Moreover, the latter are always present in one degree or another in the aquarium, but it is difficult to measure their precise value.

Below, let's go from the main to the minor.

Lighting in an aquarium with plants . Remember, the most important thing in light is its intensity (Lumens)! All other lighting characteristics: spectrum, Kelvin, PAR/PAR, Ra... are important, but secondary. There will be no intensity of lighting, there will be nothing. At the same time, the lighting intensity must be balanced - selected specifically for your project (height of the water column, number and types of plants, daylight hours).

Based on the above, choose aquarium lighting primarily by the number of lumens, and then everything else.

Lighting is the most expensive part. The most budget-friendly solution is to install ordinary construction-street floodlights above the aquarium . Fortunately, they are now very thin and aesthetic. And believe me, under them everything grows with a bang, of course, provided that all the other components are present.

In order not to be unfounded, here are photos of our herbalists, which were grown exclusively under LED spotlights or with their presence.

If you want professional lighting or aesthetics. Then you will have to fork out some money. The amounts can vary quickly from 10,000 to 50,000+ rubles for a 100 liter aquarium. For example, in 2021 we switched to professional lighting - ISTA Titan . Yes, not cheap, but the lamps are Achon! We have grown a professional competitive aquascape under them. That’s why we advise you to pay attention to them.

Well, it’s difficult to advise anything, because... Everyone has different needs and capabilities. In this article we talk about the products of our partners - Tetra , Laguna , ISTA lighting .

We tried to briefly and objectively talk about them. Then it's up to you. In any case, we do not really recommend that you pay attention to handicraft lighting assembly from folk craftsmen. Not all, but as a rule, they shove who knows what kind of diodes into such an assembly, assemble it all on their knees... and believe me, more than once on the forum you hear echoes of the consequences of such a purchase. After all, a company is a company. At a minimum, you are given warranty and post-warranty service.

If you are a beginner, your first herbalist, then LED spotlights are your choice. Let's move on, otherwise this note isn't very short =)

CO2 for aquarium plants . The plant is approximately 90% water, the remaining 10% is dry matter. Of that 10%, 46% is carbon. This is why CO2 supply is so important in a planted aquarium.

Plants in an aquarium obtain carbon “from water” - from carbon-containing compounds. But the natural concentration of C-carbon in water is small and is only sufficient for unpretentious plants, but they, and even more so, will be happy with additional carbon feeding. The supply of CO2 can be provided using mash or a CO2 balloon system , lemon juice or other methods.

The best, professional, simple and budget option is to supply carbon dioxide through a cylinder. One thing, however, is the initial purchase of a set: a cylinder, an MG valve, a diffuser…. will hit the budget.

Is it possible to do without CO2, but for a couple of bushes of simple plants ( cryptocorynes , echinodorus , most ludwigias , etc.).

What balloon systems can you recommend? The most budget option is an assembly from craftsmen who sell CO2 systems in VK and on forums. Everything is very high quality.

If you want a branded item, then we recommend the most inexpensive and at the same time high-quality CO2 systems from ISTA (Taiwan) . We have been using them for 5 years and recommend them to you.

On sale you will find two series of ISTA Aluminum CO2 Cylinder cylinders, with horizontal and vertical threads of 1 and 3 liters.

Fertilizers for an aquarium with plants . All fertilizers, of any brand, can be divided into MACRO-FERTILIZERS and MICRO-FERTILIZERS .

Macro fertilizers are nitrate NO3 and phosphate PO4 from which plants take N-nitrogen and P-phosphorus. These are the most important elements after CO2 - C-carbon.

Remember - Redfield's proportion rules . Always keep it under control and everything will be ok. Right, based on our observations, Redfield’s proportion rules only in full NPC proportions. Incomplete proportion - without carbon C does not give good results.

Micro fertilizers . These are all the other less important elements that are necessary for plants (see link). There is no point in putting too much emphasis on them. Firstly, all of them are contained in one quantity or another in tap water and are restored in the aquarium with changes. Secondly, an overdose of micro very quickly leads to an outbreak of algae.

A common mistake made by beginners is not understanding what they are pouring into the aquarium. For example, let's take such a popular and popular fertilizer as Tetra PlantaMin . Read the product summary at the link - it strengthens, stimulates, and gives a chic body shape.

A beginner, without delving into the essence, uses it and gets an outbreak of algae, writes on the forums - “Like, wow, what a bad Tetra.” And the trouble lies not in the drug, but in a lack of understanding of the nitrogen cycle and balance in the herbalist . The beginner has a Redfield bias (let’s say N and P are generally zero) and instead of making up for the lack of these primary elements, he fills the aquarium with Tetra PlantaMin - a micro-fertilizer (iron, potassium, manganese). As a result, going over the micro is only detrimental, because... plants lack the base - nitrogen and phosphorus.

Thus, you must understand what plants lack and understand fertilizers.

How to understand what plants lack? It's simple. Now the market is filled with a variety of expensive and not so expensive aquarium water tests. We recommend inexpensive domestic ones - VladOx drop tests , they are sold online and offline.

We also recommend, let’s not be afraid of this word, innovative domestic UHE tests . They are currently only sold online.

The minimum set of tests for an herbalist is NO3 and PO4. It is advisable to have the entire nitrogen range: NH4, NO2, NO3. As well as kH and pH tests.

Tests help us monitor the situation in the herbalist, but over time it is advisable to learn to see and feel the aquarium for yourself. With experience you need to move away from “convulsive testing”; the best aquarium test and tool is ourselves.

Let's summarize this part. Macro, it’s macro in Africa too. The link above generally contains a recipe on how to make them yourself. If you are not yet ready for self-mixing, then always and everywhere you will find a line of fertilizers from Tetra: Tetra Planta Macro , Tetra PlantaMicro , substrates, root tablets and much more .

Of course, there are many other brands that produce aquarium fertilizers. There is an opportunity, use even ADA products. All markers are different in taste and color. The main thing is to use it with a clear understanding of what you are using it for and what you want to get in the end.

From the professional line of fertilizers, at an adequate price, we can recommend Prodibo (soils, soils, macro, micro, stimulants, etc.).

So, something like a note turns into the Talmud. Which is not surprising - the topic is very broad. One moment left.

Water parameters for aquarium plants. Link1 and Link2 , please look at these articles, they cover the essence quite well.

Here we note that the quality of photosynthesis is influenced by the process of caring for the aquarium: water parameters (kH, pH below 7), high-quality filtration and aeration, competent and timely water changes.

Please study

Plant propagation

Echinodorus Dark Beauty reproduces in three ways: vegetatively, seeds and rhizome division. The third option is the most productive. Vegetative propagation is most often characterized by poor quality planting material, and seed propagation by low germination.

• first, the mother bush is removed and inspected for defects;
• if the mother material is in order, then its roots are cleared of soil and straightened;
• division is carried out so that both resulting parts (original and separated) have both roots and leaves; the incision is made from the side of the roots, so before the operation the bush is turned over with its leaves facing down;
• upon completion of the procedure, the mother bush is placed back in the ground in its original place, and the separated rhizome is left to float on the water surface of the aquarium;
• After the formation of the first young shoots, the daughter plant is gradually buried, and by the time new roots appear, it is planted in the ground.

The optimal time for Dark Beaut reproduction is when the plant is 1-1.5 years old. Old Echinodorus have few viable buds. In addition, propagation accelerates the growth of the mother bush by removing weak leaves before planting them back into the ground.

Echinodorus - an amazing plant

Today there are more than 50 species of this plant. Thanks to the active work of modern gardening, varieties of Echinodorus have emerged that have received international certificates of hybrid species. A photo with the names of aquarium plants already indicates the attractiveness of this hybrid.

This amazing plant is native to both Africa and South America. These species, of course, have some external differences, but they are almost invisible. They are mainly distinguished by the presence of essential oils in the tissues. They are present in the South American form.

In the wild, this plant can be characterized by various sizes. You can find species ranging from a few centimeters to 1.5 m in height.

This plant has a special structure. Some of its species lack a rhizome. Others may have either a cone-shaped or horizontal rhizome.

These rhizomes differ from each other in their growth method. The horizontal arrangement of the rhizome is characteristic of creeping species. The diameter of the root can be from 5 to 25 mm, depending on the size of the plant itself.

Compatibility

When starting to plant Echinodorus in an artificial reservoir, you should take into account its compatibility with other types of flora. Thus, when selecting according to the requirements of lighting, temperature and other important indicators of the habitat, you should definitely take into account the size of the final form in order to avoid further shading and/or displacement of the crop.

Echinodorus is an excellent choice for landscaping aquariums, including cichlids, as well as paludariums, terrariums and even greenhouses, becoming not only an indispensable decorative element, but also a complete shelter and source of oxygen for both fish and amphibians and reptiles.

Echinodorus 'Uschtu' is a hybrid bred by Tomas Kaliebe ZOOLogiCa, Germany. "Uschtu" is a mythical creature from Michael Endes' book The NeverEnding Story.

Echinodorus 'Uschtu' — Article E168

join the discussion

An aquarium is an alternative to a small ocean that is located indoors. For normal existence, its inhabitants must be provided with everything necessary. A popular resident of an apartment pond is Echinodorus, which, under the right conditions and care, will reward you with the beauty of its appearance.

Mr. Tail recommends: Echinodorus species

The most popular varieties of Echinodorus.

Amazonian

Amazonicus is a dense bush-like growth of green elongated leaves up to 40 cm in height and up to 4 cm in width. Growth is uniform all year round. Intense sunlight is desirable, but tolerates partial shade. The soil layer must be at least 5 cm (fine gravel or coarse sand).

Cordifolia

Cordifolius is a fairly large, hard-leaved, marshy plant with sweeping green, sometimes red dotted, ovoid leaf blades, the apex of which is pointed or rounded, with a pronounced vein pattern and a heart-shaped base. An excellent choice for large aquariums, the recommended minimum of which is 200 liters. With 8 hours of daylight, it grows only under water, reaching 30 cm; when increased to 11, it begins to develop wildly, forming airy and floating leaves up to 80 cm high, and even bloom. Care includes periodic trimming by removing large leaves.

Rose is a hybrid up to 25 cm in height and up to 40 cm in diameter. The leaves are narrow, elliptical in green shades, sometimes with dark red splashes. Young shoots are pink in color. Needs regular feeding.

Red Devil

Red Devil is a bush 25 cm in diameter. Green, lanceolate-shaped leaf blades that tend to curl. The difference between the young shoots is their bright ruby ​​color. Requires nutritious, well-silted soil. Sand is suitable as a base, but it is advisable to place a little clay under the plant.

Ruby

Rubin is a large hybrid. The recommended aquarium is at least 300 liters. Narrow, sometimes ribbon-shaped leaves up to 35 cm, on a high petiole up to 25 cm. There is a smaller variation - Narrow leaves, the bright red leaves of which have lighter veins than those of their older brother, and up to 20 cm in height. Requirements: increased lighting, nutritious soil, periodic application of fertilizers.

Dark Beauty

Dark Beauty is a small rosette up to 20 cm, with oval purple leaves. The young shoots are a rich burgundy color. Requires intense light, moderately nutritious substrate.

Ocelot

Ozelot is a medium-sized crop developed through selective breeding. Its color comes in two types: brown with dark red splashes and light green with brown specks. Peduncles are emergent. Unpretentious to lighting. Water of any hardness, neutral pH.

Saint Elmo's Fire

Sankt Elmsfeuer is a medium-sized hybrid, up to 30 cm. The leaves are ellipsoidal, up to 5 cm wide, the color of which varies from olive to bright red with small dots. Young shoots are purple in color, sometimes to shades of eggplant color, thereby reminiscent of St. Elmo's fire. Illumination is average.

Vesuvius

Vesuvius is characterized by narrow, ribbon-like leaves of a bright green color that tend to curl. The height of the rosette is up to 15 cm. To maintain its unique decorative properties, it requires intense lighting and a stable habitat. The soil should be nutritious and well silted.

Gentle

Tenellus (tenellus, herbaceous) differs from other varieties of Echinodorus in its small size (up to 6 cm) and the absence of rhizomes. Narrow green leaves up to 10 cm long and 1-3 mm wide. A fast-growing plant, ideal for both small-sized aquariums and the front part of large ones. Light-loving, picky about the soil: substrate of small fractions with a height of at least 2 cm.

Rubra

Tenellus rubra. He is also the Dwarf Chainsword. Narrow, up to 2 mm, elongated leaf plates up to 7 cm long, dark green. Under optimal conditions, young shoots have purple hues. Requires intense lighting and fine nutrient soil.

Quadricostatus

Quadricostatus is a small broad-leaved shrub of bright green color, up to 15 cm, perfect for the design of an aquarium of any size. Light – from moderate to intense. Requires nutritious soil and fertilizing with iron.

About aquarium species of natural origin

Echinodorus angustifolia - was described in 1975. Natural habitat: Mato Grosso, Brazil. It is distinguished by its endurance and heat-loving nature. It has a simple appearance, the leaves are long and pointed upward, green in color. If the conditions are incorrect, the leaf blades may turn yellow. It is recommended to plant in the middle and background. The bush grows 50-60 cm high, leaf width is 4 mm. In an aquarium it can take root in slightly acidic and hard water. Heat-loving species, required maintenance temperature: 20-30 degrees Celsius. Suitable as a hiding place for small fish. For rapid growth, the amount of daylight required is 10-12 hours, with light from LB lamps of 0.4 W per 1 liter of water. It is better to plant narrow-leaved Echinodorus in a spacious aquarium, since it grows strongly.

Echinodorus osiris - the plant was first described in 1970, its natural habitat is the south of Brazil, areas of the Orinoco River. The leaves are elliptical, wide. The color of the leaf blade is green or light brown. An adult plant reaches a length of 40-50 cm, so it is initially recommended to plant it in a spacious aquarium with clean water. If planted in nutritious sand with soil, a dense bush will grow. In bright light the leaves turn orange-red. It is advisable to plant the plant in the foreground. A number of requirements for keeping in an aquarium: water temperature 18-29 degrees, acidity 6.0-7.5 pH, hardness - no more than 4 dH.

Echinodorus yarrow - described in 1970, a very popular ornamental plant. Also loves lighting and clean water. Forms a wide bush of 10-20 whorls, the color of the leaf blades is from light green to dark green. The plant grows up to 60 cm in height. The leaves are long, elliptical in shape. Requires fine-grained soil for planting, without foreign impurities. The water should be slightly acidic and hard. The permissible temperature in water is 22-28 degrees. It is better to plant in the foreground or background.

Watch a video about Echinodorus yarrow.

Echinodorus parviflora (black Amazon) is an unpretentious aquarium plant. Its natural habitat is freshwater bodies of Bolivia and Peru. The stem is shortened, the height of the bush is 40 cm. The shape and length of the leaf directly depend on the length of daylight hours. The color of the leaf blade is bright green with brown veins. It is recommended to keep it in a tropical aquarium with relatively warm water. A number of requirements for water parameters: temperature 21-28 degrees, acidity 6.0-8.0 pH, hardness 2-15o. It is recommended to replace 25% of the water with fresh water weekly; it prefers water that is not cloudy and free of organic impurities. It is better to plant in the back wall of the tank. Grows all year round. The soil should be silted and nutritious.

Hybrids

Echinodorus Mercedes (Mercedes) is a very popular hybrid plant of Czech selection. Forms a rosette of 5-6 stems and wide elliptical leaves. The color of the leaf blade is olive-yellow, with a purple edging. The height of the leaves is 30-35 cm, width 5-7 cm, bush width up to 30 cm. In an environment saturated with iron, Mercedes can acquire a dark brown, purple color. Plants also love warm water and grow in the light; it is better to use LB lamps with a power of 0.3 W per liter for this. It takes root in water at a temperature of 20-27 degrees, with a hardness of 4-9 dH, acidity pH 6.0-7.0. Flower arrows are thrown out several times a year. Granular sand without impurities is suitable as a soil. It propagates vegetatively, using lateral shoots on peduncles.

Echinodorus ruby ​​is a popular ornamental plant with bright colors. Unlike its counterparts of natural origin, it is very hardy even in acidic and soft water and does not have any special maintenance requirements. Unwashed sand is suitable as a substrate for planting, where it feels comfortable. It grows to a height of 60 cm, the leaves are oblong, purple-red, with 8-10 whorls in one rosette. Permissible temperature in the aquarium: from 22 to 30 degrees.

Echinodorus rose is a small hybrid with light pink leaves. The height of the bush is 15-25 cm, width - 20-35 cm. The rosette has 8-9 elliptical leaves, the width of the leaf plate is 3-5 cm. The plant is planted in the central or rear part of the aquarium. Loves lighting, 0.4 W per 1 liter. It is required to plant in nutrient soil with silt. The temperature of the aquatic environment in the aquarium is 22-30 degrees, and does not grow very quickly.

Echinodorus Maghribian

Echinodorus Maghribian photo
Family: Chastukhovae (Alismataceae).

Hybrid: bred by Chelyabinsk breeder Igor Filippov in 2001.

Content difficulty: easy.

Dimensions: up to 30 cm.

Growth rate: average.

Echinodorus Maghribinets is a very beautiful variety of Echinodorus. Compared to many other species of Echinodorus, the plant is medium in size, which makes it possible to keep this plant in small aquariums if desired. A mature bush rarely exceeds 30 centimeters in height and about the same in diameter. The surface of the leaf is glossy-matte, wavy along the edge, the tip of the leaf is blunt and twists into a corkscrew.

An adult bush produces a peduncle a couple of millimeters thick, and it produces up to 8 children; provided that there is enough nutrition for the plant, all the children can be preserved. They will also reproduce by daughters.

Echinodorus Maghribian photo

Echinodorus are very “hardy” plants. But it is still desirable that the water parameters be comfortable, here they are: temperature 22-27 degrees, dH up to 10, pH 6.5-7.5, intense lighting from 60 Lm/l+, CO2 supply will also have a beneficial effect on the plant habit . Filtration, aeration, and water changes are required when containing echinodorus.

In general, Echinodorus can live without additional mineral fertilizers. However, we all know what a lack, as well as an excess of macro and micro elements, leads to! Therefore, we believe that a moderate nutrient substrate or root tablets such as Tetra Planta Crypto and/or liquid macro and micro fertilizers .

The issue of lighting is very important for Echinodorus . Any small or large Echinodorus loves intense lighting ~ from 60 Lm/l. Of course, a lot depends on the type and conditions of maintenance, but in general, like any plant, Echinodorus prefers a mixed source of lighting with the creation of “sunrise-zenith-sunset”; this can be achieved with complex light panels or, for example, using T5 fluorescent lamps separately and say LED spotlights. The length of daylight hours is also an individual question, the general guideline is 6-12 hours.

Echinodorus Maghribian photo

Echinodorus Maghribian video review

Cool videos about plants from FanFishki

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PRACTICAL NOTE ON GROWING AQUARIUM PLANTS

This note is posted in all FanFishka articles dedicated to aquarium plants. This is a cheat sheet with a link that will help you grow any aquarium plant and herbalist of any complexity.

Most of the reference materials are located in the Aquascape , we also recommend our brochure: Aquarium navigator for beginners: “Underwater Gardens of Babylon” .

The formula for success in growing plants can be depicted as follows.

First of all, the proper level of lighting is necessary.

(light intensity - Lumens)

Next, the proper concentration of CO2

Further macro-fertilizers and micro-fertilizers

Water parameters, care and quality water changes

The gradation of this formula is based on the degree of importance. Lighting intensity is primary, and then descending. Therefore, if your plants have holes in the leaves, they have sciatica (crooked) or there are problems with algae, then please do not read the “bad advice” - this is chlorosis (lack of iron), this is a lack of potassium... diarrhea, phimosis and endometriosis )

You always need to solve the problem of setting up an herbalist from major to minor. Plants will die more quickly from a lack of lighting than from a lack of Fe and K. Moreover, the latter are always present in one degree or another in the aquarium, but it is difficult to measure their precise value.

Below, let's go from the main to the minor.

Lighting in an aquarium with plants . Remember, the most important thing in light is its intensity (Lumens)! All other lighting characteristics: spectrum, Kelvin, PAR/PAR, Ra... are important, but secondary. There will be no intensity of lighting, there will be nothing. At the same time, the lighting intensity must be balanced - selected specifically for your project (height of the water column, number and types of plants, daylight hours).

Based on the above, choose aquarium lighting primarily by the number of lumens, and then everything else.

Lighting is the most expensive part. The most budget-friendly solution is to install ordinary construction-street floodlights above the aquarium . Fortunately, they are now very thin and aesthetic. And believe me, under them everything grows with a bang, of course, provided that all the other components are present.

In order not to be unfounded, here are photos of our herbalists, which were grown exclusively under LED spotlights or with their presence.

If you want professional lighting or aesthetics. Then you will have to fork out some money. The amounts can vary quickly from 10,000 to 50,000+ rubles for a 100 liter aquarium. For example, in 2021 we switched to professional lighting - ISTA Titan . Yes, not cheap, but the lamps are Achon! We have grown a professional competitive aquascape under them. That’s why we advise you to pay attention to them.

Well, it’s difficult to advise anything, because... Everyone has different needs and capabilities. In this article we talk about the products of our partners - Tetra , Laguna , ISTA lighting .

We tried to briefly and objectively talk about them. Then it's up to you. In any case, we do not really recommend that you pay attention to handicraft lighting assembly from folk craftsmen. Not all, but as a rule, they shove who knows what kind of diodes into such an assembly, assemble it all on their knees... and believe me, more than once on the forum you hear echoes of the consequences of such a purchase. After all, a company is a company. At a minimum, you are given warranty and post-warranty service.

If you are a beginner, your first herbalist, then LED spotlights are your choice. Let's move on, otherwise this note isn't very short =)

CO2 for aquarium plants . The plant is approximately 90% water, the remaining 10% is dry matter. Of that 10%, 46% is carbon. This is why CO2 supply is so important in a planted aquarium.

Plants in an aquarium obtain carbon “from water” - from carbon-containing compounds. But the natural concentration of C-carbon in water is small and is only sufficient for unpretentious plants, but they, and even more so, will be happy with additional carbon feeding. The supply of CO2 can be provided using mash or a CO2 balloon system , lemon juice or other methods.

The best, professional, simple and budget option is to supply carbon dioxide through a cylinder. One thing, however, is the initial purchase of a set: a cylinder, an MG valve, a diffuser…. will hit the budget.

Is it possible to do without CO2, but for a couple of bushes of simple plants ( cryptocorynes , echinodorus , most ludwigias , etc.).

What balloon systems can you recommend? The most budget option is an assembly from craftsmen who sell CO2 systems in VK and on forums. Everything is very high quality.

If you want a branded item, then we recommend the most inexpensive and at the same time high-quality CO2 systems from ISTA (Taiwan) . We have been using them for 5 years and recommend them to you.

On sale you will find two series of ISTA Aluminum CO2 Cylinder cylinders, with horizontal and vertical threads of 1 and 3 liters.

Fertilizers for an aquarium with plants . All fertilizers, of any brand, can be divided into MACRO-FERTILIZERS and MICRO-FERTILIZERS .

Macro fertilizers are nitrate NO3 and phosphate PO4 from which plants take N-nitrogen and P-phosphorus. These are the most important elements after CO2 - C-carbon.

Remember - Redfield's proportion rules . Always keep it under control and everything will be ok. Right, based on our observations, Redfield’s proportion rules only in full NPC proportions. Incomplete proportion - without carbon C does not give good results.

Micro fertilizers . These are all the other less important elements that are necessary for plants (see link). There is no point in putting too much emphasis on them. Firstly, all of them are contained in one quantity or another in tap water and are restored in the aquarium with changes. Secondly, an overdose of micro very quickly leads to an outbreak of algae.

A common mistake made by beginners is not understanding what they are pouring into the aquarium. For example, let's take such a popular and popular fertilizer as Tetra PlantaMin . Read the product summary at the link - it strengthens, stimulates, and gives a chic body shape.

A beginner, without delving into the essence, uses it and gets an outbreak of algae, writes on the forums - “Like, wow, what a bad Tetra.” And the trouble lies not in the drug, but in a lack of understanding of the nitrogen cycle and balance in the herbalist . The beginner has a Redfield bias (let’s say N and P are generally zero) and instead of making up for the lack of these primary elements, he fills the aquarium with Tetra PlantaMin - a micro-fertilizer (iron, potassium, manganese). As a result, going over the micro is only detrimental, because... plants lack the base - nitrogen and phosphorus.

Thus, you must understand what plants lack and understand fertilizers.

How to understand what plants lack? It's simple. Now the market is filled with a variety of expensive and not so expensive aquarium water tests. We recommend inexpensive domestic ones - VladOx drop tests , they are sold online and offline.

We also recommend, let’s not be afraid of this word, innovative domestic UHE tests . They are currently only sold online.

The minimum set of tests for an herbalist is NO3 and PO4. It is advisable to have the entire nitrogen range: NH4, NO2, NO3. As well as kH and pH tests.

Tests help us monitor the situation in the herbalist, but over time it is advisable to learn to see and feel the aquarium for yourself. With experience you need to move away from “convulsive testing”; the best aquarium test and tool is ourselves.

Let's summarize this part. Macro, it’s macro in Africa too. The link above generally contains a recipe on how to make them yourself. If you are not yet ready for self-mixing, then always and everywhere you will find a line of fertilizers from Tetra: Tetra Planta Macro , Tetra PlantaMicro , substrates, root tablets and much more .

Of course, there are many other brands that produce aquarium fertilizers. There is an opportunity, use even ADA products. All markers are different in taste and color. The main thing is to use it with a clear understanding of what you are using it for and what you want to get in the end.

From the professional line of fertilizers, at an adequate price, we can recommend Prodibo (soils, soils, macro, micro, stimulants, etc.).

So, something like a note turns into the Talmud. Which is not surprising - the topic is very broad. One moment left.

Water parameters for aquarium plants. Link1 and Link2 , please look at these articles, they cover the essence quite well.

Here we note that the quality of photosynthesis is influenced by the process of caring for the aquarium: water parameters (kH, pH below 7), high-quality filtration and aeration, competent and timely water changes.

Please study

Reproduction and planting

This plant reproduces vegetatively. The bush is capable of reproduction within a few weeks after transplantation. It throws out a pair of antennae on which shoots form. Only after 3-4 leaves appear, they can be replanted. Echinodorus can also reproduce by seeds. Provided the soil is well silty, they sprout quickly.

Before planting in your aquarium, the grass needs to be kept in quarantine for about a week. After this, you can begin rooting. To do this, just make a small depression and bury the roots of the plant in the ground. There is also a faster way - to replant it along with old soil with microflora already familiar to it.

Judging from all of the above, it follows that Echinodorus tenellus is a universal plant that is guaranteed to take root in any aquarium, delivering aesthetic pleasure to its owner.

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Features of plant maintenance

When growing Echinodorus, you should also pay attention to the following features:

• Every week it is necessary to change about 25% of the total water.
• The water temperature should be between +18 and +26 °C. Hardness – up to 10 units. It is recommended to maintain a neutral pH balance.
• Good lighting.
• The soil should consist of fine gravel and sand, which should be washed monthly with a siphon.
• The water must be saturated with CO2. If there is not enough carbon dioxide, then calcium from the water will settle on the surface of the leaves. This is harmful to the aquarium ecosystem and to the plant.
• Ancistrus and ampullaria must be present in the aquarium with this plant. They clean leaves and can even cope with calcium deposits.
• It is imperative to apply root feeding.
• In the spring, the plant must be replanted and renewed annually.
• At the same time, fragments of the rhizome with awakened buds or new growth points are separated.

Additional recommendations

In order for Echinodorus to fully develop and not be susceptible to a number of typical diseases, experienced aquarists advise paying attention to the following recommendations:

1. Periodic replacement and filtration of water in the aquarium.
2. Siphon the soil to avoid rotting of the root system.
3. Periodic treatment of roots with birch charcoal.
4. Additional lighting for 10 hours a day.
5. Additional supply of oxygen and carbon dioxide.
6. Fertilizing the soil with basal and root baits.

Following these simple tips will help protect the aquarium plant from putrefactive processes and various diseases, prolong its life and maintain its spectacular appearance.

Echinodorus coexist well with other aquarium plants that are approximately the same size as them. More spreading growths will shade the Echinodorus, which can negatively affect its growth and external characteristics. If you plant a plant with smaller algae, then the opposite situation is possible, especially if we are talking about light-loving crops.

Causes of plant “disease”

The cause of the unsatisfactory condition of the plant can be rotting of the roots. To revive Echinodorus, you should carefully dig up its root and carefully examine it. Healthy roots should be white.

Roots that have begun to rot acquire a dark shade and become translucent. Experts recommend getting rid of them completely by carefully cutting off all affected areas with a sharp knife. The cut areas must be treated along the edges with well-crushed birch charcoal.

When cutting roots, pay attention to the tool. It should be thin and well sharpened.

The plant is then planted in well-washed soil. In this case, the surviving pieces of roots do not need to be buried completely. They should be half in the soil. In this case, the cut point should remain above the ground surface. This way the rotting process will not resume.

To provoke plant growth, it is necessary to “awaken” the buds. To do this, it is enough that parts of the rhizome are well lit.

Kinds

The species diversity of ocelots includes more than 50 varieties. Most of them are cultivated in home ponds.

The most common types of Echinodorus:

Horizontal

Pistachio-colored leaves in the shape of a heart or egg are attached to the cuttings at an angle of 90°. Plant height is 25 cm. It grows at a temperature of 22-28°C; in autumn and spring, the temperature regime must be reduced to 20-22°C.

Mottled

Greenish leaves with coffee specks. The height of the bush is from 10 to 20 cm. The optimal temperature is from 24 to 28°C. At lower temperatures, bush growth stops. Demanding on lighting. A lack of light leads to the disappearance of specks.

small-flowered

The lance-shaped surface of the dark green foliage is dotted with brownish veins, for which it is nicknamed the “Black Amazon”. Quickly adapts to a decrease in temperature from 20-27 to 17-18°C and hardness within 2-20dH. The most popular varieties are Echinodorus parviflora tropica and parviflora parviflora. The distinctive qualities of the tropics are corrugated sheet plates. Parviflorus tropica grows up to 40 cm in height. The size and color of the leaves depends on the light. When the daylight hours are more than 10 hours, the leaves become light green.

Aflame

Compact plant with bright purple leaves. High maintenance requirements. Water characteristics: t – 22-28°C, dH – from 2 to 15, pH – 6-8. When planting, a nutrient substrate is required.

Argentinian

A giant plant growing up to 100-120 cm, with green, dense, oval leaves. Water: t – 17-25°C, pH – 6.5-7.5. The rigidity can be any. Breeding in an artificial reservoir is impossible, since the rhizome does not produce daughter shoots.

Narrow-leaved

A hardy, heat-loving representative of the species with narrow, greenish foliage, reaching a length of 0.6 m, tapering towards the top. Prefers slightly acidic water at a temperature of 22-27°C.

Osiris (osiris)

With wide, elongated foliage, gathered into rosettes. The leaves turn from light chestnut to dark green as they develop. Equally loves both soft and hard water. To ensure plant growth, a nutrient substrate is placed under the rhizome.

Rubra

Subspecies of Echinodorus tender. Small bushes with leaves up to 10 cm long and 2 mm wide. A slightly reddish stripe runs down the center of the dark green foliage. The gentle rubra loves bright light and fine-grained, nutritious soil.

Schluter

It stands out for its ellipsoid leaves, colored in a lush green tone with reddish specks. Water temperature – 21-25°С, lighting – moderate.

Red

Representatives of this species include varieties Ruby, Rose, Red Ocelot, Red Flame, Indian Red. At a liquid temperature of up to 15°C, the bushes acquire a crimson color. It is recommended to feed the plants with liquid fertilizers.

Dark Beauty

Hybrid with ovate burgundy foliage. Reaches 20 cm in height. In order for the leaves to acquire a bright color, intense lighting is required.

Latifolius

The leaves are narrow, elongated, colored light green. Requires bright lighting, additional CO2 and nutrient-rich soil. Otherwise the foliage turns yellow.

Red Devil

The lance-shaped foliage is ruby ​​red. t – 25-30°С, dH – up to 25, pH – 5-8. It is recommended to choose sand mixed with clay as a soil mixture.

Florence or Veronica

A large plant that produces up to 35-40 short petioles, dotted with many leaves. As the bush develops, the leaves change color from reddish to olive. The bushes are picky about their maintenance conditions and require regular feeding with fertilizers and the supply of carbon dioxide.

broadleaf

Bushes of a rich green hue, growing up to 0.15 m. Maintenance requirements - warm water of neutral acidity, moderate lighting. Feels good in a nutritious substrate.

Echinodorus parviflora

Echinodorus parviflora tropica photo
Range - central regions of South America. Echinodorus parviflorus (lat. Echinodorus parviflorus) is a herbaceous plant of the genus Echinodorus of the family Particulates.

Echinodorus tropicalis is also called “black Amazon” because of the color of its leaves. Nowadays its variety is popular - Echinodorus tropica. The leaves are similar to those of Echinodorus amazonica, but they are slightly wider. The plant has a dense rosette up to 40 cm high.

Echinodorus parviflora tropica photo

Echinodorus parviflora is popular among aquarists due to its unpretentious living conditions and high decorative qualities.

Comfortable water parameters for keeping : temperature 20-28 °C. The plant can withstand short-term decreases in temperature. Hardness from 1° to 20°. The plant feels better in neutral and slightly alkaline water, but it also grows quite satisfactorily in an acidic environment. The plant requires replacing water with fresh water - 4 times a month.

Lighting is not demanding ~ 50 Lm/l, but with a lack of light, the leaves of the plant lose their interesting color. Daylight hours are 8-14 hours.

Echinodorus parviflora photo

Soil is necessary - rich in nutrients. Additional Tetra Planta Start and/or Tetra Crypto are added to the new soil under the roots. The thickness of the soil is at least 5-7 cm.

In an aquarium, Echinodorus parviflora reproduces vegetatively . On its flower shoots, many daughter plants are formed, which, after the appearance of 4-5 leaves and a root system, can be separated and replanted in a new place.

Echinodorus parviflora video review

Cool videos about plants from FanFishki

Subscribe to our YouTube channel so you don't miss anything

PRACTICAL NOTE ON GROWING AQUARIUM PLANTS

This note is posted in all FanFishka articles dedicated to aquarium plants. This is a cheat sheet with a link that will help you grow any aquarium plant and herbalist of any complexity.

Most of the reference materials are located in the Aquascape , we also recommend our brochure: Aquarium navigator for beginners: “Underwater Gardens of Babylon” .

The formula for success in growing plants can be depicted as follows.

First of all, the proper level of lighting is necessary.

(light intensity - Lumens)

Next, the proper concentration of CO2

Further macro-fertilizers and micro-fertilizers

Water parameters, care and quality water changes

The gradation of this formula is based on the degree of importance. Lighting intensity is primary, and then descending. Therefore, if your plants have holes in the leaves, they have sciatica (crooked) or there are problems with algae, then please do not read the “bad advice” - this is chlorosis (lack of iron), this is a lack of potassium... diarrhea, phimosis and endometriosis )

You always need to solve the problem of setting up an herbalist from major to minor. Plants will die more quickly from a lack of lighting than from a lack of Fe and K. Moreover, the latter are always present in one degree or another in the aquarium, but it is difficult to measure their precise value.

Below, let's go from the main to the minor.

Lighting in an aquarium with plants . Remember, the most important thing in light is its intensity (Lumens)! All other lighting characteristics: spectrum, Kelvin, PAR/PAR, Ra... are important, but secondary. There will be no intensity of lighting, there will be nothing. At the same time, the lighting intensity must be balanced - selected specifically for your project (height of the water column, number and types of plants, daylight hours).

Based on the above, choose aquarium lighting primarily by the number of lumens, and then everything else.

Lighting is the most expensive part. The most budget-friendly solution is to install ordinary construction-street floodlights above the aquarium . Fortunately, they are now very thin and aesthetic. And believe me, under them everything grows with a bang, of course, provided that all the other components are present.

In order not to be unfounded, here are photos of our herbalists, which were grown exclusively under LED spotlights or with their presence.

If you want professional lighting or aesthetics. Then you will have to fork out some money. The amounts can vary quickly from 10,000 to 50,000+ rubles for a 100 liter aquarium. For example, in 2021 we switched to professional lighting - ISTA Titan . Yes, not cheap, but the lamps are Achon! We have grown a professional competitive aquascape under them. That’s why we advise you to pay attention to them.

Well, it’s difficult to advise anything, because... Everyone has different needs and capabilities. In this article we talk about the products of our partners - Tetra , Laguna , ISTA lighting .

We tried to briefly and objectively talk about them. Then it's up to you. In any case, we do not really recommend that you pay attention to handicraft lighting assembly from folk craftsmen. Not all, but as a rule, they shove who knows what kind of diodes into such an assembly, assemble it all on their knees... and believe me, more than once on the forum you hear echoes of the consequences of such a purchase. After all, a company is a company. At a minimum, you are given warranty and post-warranty service.

If you are a beginner, your first herbalist, then LED spotlights are your choice. Let's move on, otherwise this note isn't very short =)

CO2 for aquarium plants . The plant is approximately 90% water, the remaining 10% is dry matter. Of that 10%, 46% is carbon. This is why CO2 supply is so important in a planted aquarium.

Plants in an aquarium obtain carbon “from water” - from carbon-containing compounds. But the natural concentration of C-carbon in water is small and is only sufficient for unpretentious plants, but they, and even more so, will be happy with additional carbon feeding. The supply of CO2 can be provided using mash or a CO2 balloon system , lemon juice or other methods.

The best, professional, simple and budget option is to supply carbon dioxide through a cylinder. One thing, however, is the initial purchase of a set: a cylinder, an MG valve, a diffuser…. will hit the budget.

Is it possible to do without CO2, but for a couple of bushes of simple plants ( cryptocorynes , echinodorus , most ludwigias , etc.).

What balloon systems can you recommend? The most budget option is an assembly from craftsmen who sell CO2 systems in VK and on forums. Everything is very high quality.

If you want a branded item, then we recommend the most inexpensive and at the same time high-quality CO2 systems from ISTA (Taiwan) . We have been using them for 5 years and recommend them to you.

On sale you will find two series of ISTA Aluminum CO2 Cylinder cylinders, with horizontal and vertical threads of 1 and 3 liters.

Fertilizers for an aquarium with plants . All fertilizers, of any brand, can be divided into MACRO-FERTILIZERS and MICRO-FERTILIZERS .

Macro fertilizers are nitrate NO3 and phosphate PO4 from which plants take N-nitrogen and P-phosphorus. These are the most important elements after CO2 - C-carbon.

Remember - Redfield's proportion rules . Always keep it under control and everything will be ok. Right, based on our observations, Redfield’s proportion rules only in full NPC proportions. Incomplete proportion - without carbon C does not give good results.

Micro fertilizers . These are all the other less important elements that are necessary for plants (see link). There is no point in putting too much emphasis on them. Firstly, all of them are contained in one quantity or another in tap water and are restored in the aquarium with changes. Secondly, an overdose of micro very quickly leads to an outbreak of algae.

A common mistake made by beginners is not understanding what they are pouring into the aquarium. For example, let's take such a popular and popular fertilizer as Tetra PlantaMin . Read the product summary at the link - it strengthens, stimulates, and gives a chic body shape.

A beginner, without delving into the essence, uses it and gets an outbreak of algae, writes on the forums - “Like, wow, what a bad Tetra.” And the trouble lies not in the drug, but in a lack of understanding of the nitrogen cycle and balance in the herbalist . The beginner has a Redfield bias (let’s say N and P are generally zero) and instead of making up for the lack of these primary elements, he fills the aquarium with Tetra PlantaMin - a micro-fertilizer (iron, potassium, manganese). As a result, going over the micro is only detrimental, because... plants lack the base - nitrogen and phosphorus.

Thus, you must understand what plants lack and understand fertilizers.

How to understand what plants lack? It's simple. Now the market is filled with a variety of expensive and not so expensive aquarium water tests. We recommend inexpensive domestic ones - VladOx drop tests , they are sold online and offline.

We also recommend, let’s not be afraid of this word, innovative domestic UHE tests . They are currently only sold online.

The minimum set of tests for an herbalist is NO3 and PO4. It is advisable to have the entire nitrogen range: NH4, NO2, NO3. As well as kH and pH tests.

Tests help us monitor the situation in the herbalist, but over time it is advisable to learn to see and feel the aquarium for yourself. With experience you need to move away from “convulsive testing”; the best aquarium test and tool is ourselves.

Let's summarize this part. Macro, it’s macro in Africa too. The link above generally contains a recipe on how to make them yourself. If you are not yet ready for self-mixing, then always and everywhere you will find a line of fertilizers from Tetra: Tetra Planta Macro , Tetra PlantaMicro , substrates, root tablets and much more .

Of course, there are many other brands that produce aquarium fertilizers. There is an opportunity, use even ADA products. All markers are different in taste and color. The main thing is to use it with a clear understanding of what you are using it for and what you want to get in the end.

From the professional line of fertilizers, at an adequate price, we can recommend Prodibo (soils, soils, macro, micro, stimulants, etc.).

So, something like a note turns into the Talmud. Which is not surprising - the topic is very broad. One moment left.

Water parameters for aquarium plants. Link1 and Link2 , please look at these articles, they cover the essence quite well.

Here we note that the quality of photosynthesis is influenced by the process of caring for the aquarium: water parameters (kH, pH below 7), high-quality filtration and aeration, competent and timely water changes.

Please study