Is it possible to add potassium permanganate to the aquarium • FONDYARDEM.RU

Regular table salt is rightfully considered a folk remedy for treating aquarium fish. You can treat with salt directly in the aquarium (slightly adding salt to the water), or you can bathe the fish in a separate container in a relatively strong salt solution. Scientifically speaking, treat using long-term and short-term salt baths.

Photo 1.
Table salt from a regular grocery store is a universal treatment for aquarium fish.
It is best to use non-iodized coarse salt, ideally rock salt. But you can also have another one - finely ground, “Extra” type. 2 - the Sumatran barb and all its varieties, for example, the “mutant” (also known as the “mossy barb”), really do not like prolonged treatment with salt. 3 - cannot be treated with salt. 4 - young labyrinth fish should be treated with salt with caution. As a rule, they do not tolerate short-term baths with a salt concentration of more than 2%. In no case should it be exceeded for these fish. It is optimal to use a table salt concentration of 1.5%. A lower concentration for short-term bathing of fish is no longer effective. Some breeders add a little salt (1-2 teaspoons per 10 liters) to the juveniles right in the nursery aquarium. This results in a long-term healing salt bath. The fish gradually get used to the increased salinity, and they actually get sick less, but the problem is, they then get sick in fresh water. 5 - you should not use salt in decorative aquariums with plants. Higher aquatic vegetation for the most part does not tolerate high concentrations of sodium and chlorine ions, but they do not prevent algae, which so maliciously spoil the entire aquatic design, from multiplying beyond measure (for more details, see the article " "). 6 - you cannot add table salt to the water of an aquarium with, this will only worsen the condition of the fish. 7 - and, finally, there is no need to use table salt to treat ichthyophthyriosis (at least just salt alone). Without the use of branded products, or the method outlined in the article » » salt will not bring success in the fight against semolina.

What diseases can be treated for aquarium fish with salt?

For what symptoms is it advisable to treat fish with salt?

if fish start touching the ground and leaves of plants;
whitish or gray-blue mucus becomes noticeable on their body (sometimes only at a certain position of the fish in relation to the observer);
the body and/or fins are sprinkled with fine grayish or golden sand;
the fins of fish are constantly compressed, they do not straighten them even when they try to swim quickly, with compressed fins this turns out very clumsily;
fish stay near the surface of the water near the air spray;
Viviparous fish make characteristic oscillatory movements with their entire body from side to side, and labyrinthine fish make back-and-forth movements.

If you notice these symptoms, then it is best to first make sure that the conditions in the aquarium are quite acceptable for the life of fish (the article "" and " will help you understand the basics of aquarium hydrochemistry). And if it turns out that it is quite possible to live in your aquarium, but for some reason the fish feel bad, then they are most likely sick and you should start treating them. A short-term salt bath in this case may well be the best choice. How to do it is described in detail below, but first of all I want to draw the readers’ attention to the need to accurately select the concentration of the saline solution.

How long should the fish be bathed and what should the concentration of the saline solution be?

A 4-5% solution is guaranteed and quickly kills pathogens, but a rare aquarium fish will last in it for even 5 minutes, not to mention the minimum required for a short-term salt bath - ten. However, a 2.0% solution also has a significant therapeutic effect. Almost all aquarium freshwater fish can tolerate this concentration of salt within 10-15 minutes. If there is an urgent need, you can bathe catfish in a salt solution of this concentration. With experience comes an intuitive understanding of what strength of solution will benefit the fish, but while there is little experience, first carry out the bathing procedure with one or two of the least valuable fish, and if they can withstand a 15-minute bath, then you can safely bathe the rest, and The salt concentration can even be slightly increased (in principle, solutions with a strength of up to 4% can be used for aquarium fish). As a rule, a 2.0 - 2.5% solution turns out to be optimal (bathing time is 10 minutes, and if the fish are in good health - up to 15 minutes). During the salt bath, watch the fish very carefully. If they begin to be pushed out of the water, they lie on the surface on their side and cannot go down, or too much mucus begins to separate from them, then it is necessary to urgently stop the bathing procedure.

Photo 2.
A teaspoon with ten grams of table salt. In order for a spoon to hold 10 g, the slide must be quite decent. I even sprinkled some while I was positioning the spoon on the scale. The weight of the spoon is compensated, the display shows the weight of the salt. Before you start treating your fish with salt, check yourself again to see if you have calculated the concentration correctly and measured the right amount of salt.

So, the most universal and cheapest way to treat aquarium fish is short-term salt baths. Here is the method for carrying them out:

The method of short-term therapeutic salt baths is good because it allows you to do without adding medications (antibiotics and dyes) to the aquarium water, which disrupt, killing beneficial and. In addition, many antibiotics inhibit plant growth and can even lead to their death. Therefore, if you have valuable plants in your aquarium, or plants are always more valuable to you than fish, the only acceptable treatment method will be short-term medicinal baths, in particular the short-term salt baths described here.

Long-term (long-term) salt baths for treating fish: how and why to carry them out?

Long therapeutic salt baths can be carried out in quarantine tanks, nursery aquariums and in aquariums where there are no living plants. In this case, it is more correct to use natural rock salt, but it is acceptable to use any table salt. Long-term treatment of fish with salt is used to combat the same pathogenic organisms that are already listed at the beginning of this article and to relieve symptoms. As a rule, concentrations not exceeding 1.5 g/l are used, and in case of nitrite poisoning - much lower. Viviparous fish tolerate long-term salt baths well; this treatment method can also be applied to goldfish, cichlids, spawning cyprinids and some other types of aquarium fish. The duration of long-term salt baths is from several days to two weeks. At this time, during water changes, water with the same salt concentration as in the aquarium is poured into the aquarium. I would not recommend keeping fish in water with high salinity for more than two weeks, so that they do not develop disorders of their osmoregulation mechanisms. As soon as the fish are freed from pathogens (their symptoms of poor health disappear), you should begin to reduce the salt concentration using fractional water changes (10 - 15% of the aquarium volume daily).

If you have a need to treat fish with salt, but you are not sure whether salt can be used for certain species and you find it difficult to choose the concentration and/or duration of treatment (short-term or long-term baths), then ask about it at, where a special subject: .

More materials on treating aquarium fish using short-term therapeutic baths:
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V. Kovalev 04/29/2015

Disinfection of an aquarium is a necessary measure that aquarists have to take in order to protect pets and plants from death. The need to disinfect the water and elements in the aquarium arises after the manifestation of infectious viruses and microorganisms in the reservoir, as well as after the death of pets. However, not all owners of artificial reservoirs know how to disinfect an aquarium correctly so as not to harm the inhabitants of the aquarium.

Disinfection of an aquarium is carried out in two cases:

During the initial launch of a new artificial reservoir.
Disinfection of an existing reservoir with disinfectants when infectious diseases are detected.

When starting up the tank for the first time, disinfection is necessary in order to destroy possible contaminants, bacteria, microbes and other viruses, which can subsequently lead to dire consequences and even the death of pets, so it is necessary to treat the aquarium immediately after purchase. An existing aquarium is disinfected if contagious fish diseases or harmful algae have been identified, for example, with ichthyphothyrius, blackbeard or blue-green algae. In these cases, disinfecting the aquarium will not only destroy the remains of bacteria and viruses, but will also help the owner treat their pets.

What kind of water should I put in the aquarium?

Water is available to humans from different sources. There are many options, so it’s important to know what suits aquatic life. This is especially alarming for aquarists who are setting up a pond for the first time. Before pouring water into the aquarium, you need to make sure that it is safe and beneficial for aquatic flora and fauna.

Filtered

When water passes through the filter, it is considered “dead”. It does not contain useful tiny organisms, and there will be no heavy metals, salts and other unsafe impurities. Before pouring water into the aquarium that has passed through the filter, it must be settled so that volatile chlorine compounds disappear.

Not all types of filters can be used. Water passed through the filters indicated below cannot be poured into the aquarium:

with a bactericidal effect;
remineralizer;
saturating with silver ions.

The liquid that was purified with the introduction of such equipment may be disastrous for aquatic inhabitants. Such an aquatic environment will be radically different from the natural one.

Primary activities

The first disinfection of the aquarium occurs immediately after you purchase the tank. The future house for fish must undergo careful processing before the first inhabitants of flora and fauna appear there.

How to properly carry out primary disinfection:

Fill the aquarium with plain water.
Dilute the potassium permanganate solution to a dark color and pour it into an aquarium filled with tap water.
After this, leave it for a day. During this time, all pathogenic bacteria will die.
Drain off all the water and wipe the walls dry with a dry cloth.
Rinse it several times with clean running water.

The next step will be preparing the water to start a new aquarium. In order for free chlorine to leave the water, it is necessary to leave 100% of the water for at least 3 days. Then pour it in and wait a couple of days again. Only after this will the aqua be ready to accept its first inhabitants.

In order not to waste time, prepare the rest of the equipment and decor for your exclusive pond. Don’t forget, they also need to be thoroughly disinfected before they end up in the same water as fish. Particular attention is paid to the soil. It is most often used sea sand and pebbles collected in natural conditions. Of course, the substrate contains a huge variety of pathogenic bacteria that will poison the entire environment in the water. To overcome the negative consequences, you need to calcine the soil in the oven or in a large frying pan. It is necessary to expose the entire soil to maximum temperature for at least 20 minutes. For convenience, divide it into portions. Do not pour hot sand into the aquarium!

Cool and rinse it thoroughly. One wash is not enough, it is better to repeat the procedure 3-4 times, only after that you can place it in the aquarium. You should not ignore this stage of the initial start-up of the aquarium.

Accessories are considered among the mandatory elements of the normal functioning of an artificial reservoir. Collect all decorative elements, excluding plastic options, and boil them thoroughly. Since heat treatment can cause plastic parts to melt, it is better to treat them with a dark solution of potassium permanganate.

Periodic replacement

Once a week you need to combine the function of cleaning the tank with a partial water change. They do a siphon of the bottom and sanitary pruning of plants. The water is settled in advance. Experienced aquarists recommend renewing less than 30% of the volume at a time. It is no longer recommended so as not to disturb the established biobalance and not create stress for the fish.

Attention! Replacement is done more often, up to 3 times a week, if pharmaceuticals are added to the water due to fish illness.

Force majeure events may also occur. For example, unsafe substances accidentally got into the aquarium due to oversight or ignorance. In such a situation, it is necessary to do not a replacement, but a complete replacement of the entire aquatic environment. The characteristics of hardness, acidity and temperature should be close to that of an aquarium. The better the characteristics are selected, the easier the process of changing water will be for the fish.

Before pouring water from the tap, settle it and reduce the hardness as necessary. To do this, you need to add distilled or boiled water. If the fluid in the reservoir is prepared using conditioners, you can do the same when replacing it.

Familiar antibiotics

Simple and inexpensive remedies can help you cope with ailments such as fin rot. Treatment with chloramphenicol in a community aquarium is recommended not only by amateur aquarists, but also by veterinarians. This drug is almost always in your home medicine cabinet. The tablets do not dissolve well in water, so you need to put them in a glass and stir well, and then add them to the aquarium. Dosage - 200 mg per liter. The solution is poured and left for 5 days. When this period ends, it is necessary to begin a partial water change.

Basic parameters of aquarium water

Ordinary tap water has neutral characteristics. The characteristics of the liquid are adjusted to the needs of aquatic inhabitants. Therefore, there is no need to keep fish and plants that require different living conditions in the same reservoir. In order for the water in the aquarium to meet the needs of the fish, you must have a thermometer and testers, and take measurements according to the following characteristics:

Temperature. Affects the quality of aeration and spawning processes. When the parameter increases to 28℃, the fish begin to breed. The critical level is 35℃. If the water temperature is higher, the inhabitants of the aquarium will die. The lower small value is 18℃. In a cool room, use a heater. The best temperature in the aquarium is between 23…26℃.
Rigidity. It depends on the concentration of calcium, magnesium and other alkaline earth salts. The unit of measurement is degrees of hardness (dGH, dKH). The best water hardness in an aquarium is 5–25 dGh. The parameter changes throughout the day and depends on the season. It is influenced by residents who absorb salts. Certain types of pebbles and shells increase rigidity. Snails and crustaceans need harder water to strengthen their shells. For neons and some types of bettas, the water should be soft.
Acidity. This parameter is influenced by hardness and temperature, time of day and even aeration. The pH is higher during the day and lower in the evening. The pH level is determined by litmus tests. In an acidic environment the paper will turn purple, in an alkaline environment it will turn blue. The best pH is 6.5–8. Alkaline water is made with soda and acidified with peat pills.

Undemanding fish are able to adapt to various characteristics of hardness and acidity, and react painlessly to sudden changes in temperature. Thus, some Killi species can survive at temperatures up to 45℃, cichlids of the tilapia genus - up to 70℃. It is not recommended to do such experiments in home reservoirs.

On-line disinfection measures

If the aquarium is already functioning, but something bad happened and various bacteria and algae began to appear in it, then disinfection cannot be avoided. It is urgent to save plants and fish from there.

All fauna that was in the infected aquarium must be treated with an antibacterial solution. The most popular is a mixture of 10 mg penatsillin per 2 liters of water. Keep the plants in it for about 3 days. Don’t be afraid, nothing bad will happen to the plants during this time. The aquarium itself can be disinfected with a special bactericidal lamp every day for 20 minutes. Disinfection of the aquarium is necessary even if there are no visible problems. Preventative measures are the best way to maintain the health of fish and other inhabitants. The next disinfection begins with disinfecting treatment of all surfaces. The simplest means at hand are potassium permanganate and peroxide. Remove all the fish and decor from there, then fill it to the edge with 3% peroxide or a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Leave everything for 5-6 hours. After this, thoroughly rinse all surfaces and corners.

If you have neither the time nor the desire to wait that long, then you can use the express method. Buy a special solution at the pet store that is designed to disinfect all surfaces. Don't forget to wear gloves before working. If you have the opportunity to treat everything with formaldehyde, chloramine, hydrochloric acid, then use this option.

To disinfect plants, it is necessary to prepare a penicillin solution in a ratio of 10:2. Leave all the plants there for about three days.

The most common means:

Isopropane 70%;
Ethanol 70%;
Sidex;
N-propanol 60%.

You can wipe the plants with these products just once; this will be enough to kill the pathogenic sphere. These products are sold in pet pharmacies. The rest of the equipment should be boiled. To be sure, keep them in boiling water for at least 20 minutes. The more time they spend in boiling water, the less chance the bacteria have to survive. Please note that rubber, plastic and thermometers should never be boiled.

Choose the most convenient method for yourself and enjoy the view of a beautiful, healthy aquarium with happy fish.

Disinfection of an aquarium is carried out in two cases:

During the initial launch of a new artificial reservoir.
Disinfection of an existing reservoir with disinfectants when infectious diseases are detected.

How to prepare water for an aquarium

In order for the fish to frolic and the plants to increase their vegetative mass, it is necessary to create conditions close to natural ones. To prepare a liquid suitable for the life of aquatic inhabitants means to remove heavy metals, mechanical impurities, phosphates, chlorine and nitrogen compounds from it. Any aquarist can do this at home. The following methods are used:

Preparing water for an aquarium is a fundamental process that cannot be ignored when arranging a home pond.

First fill

How quickly a suitable biobalance is established depends on the water that is correctly filled for the first time. The following rules must be observed:

the aquarium is carefully washed with ordinary water, without chemicals, and the glass is wiped with a sponge or soft rags.
They arrange the bottom by laying out pre-prepared soil.
Pour in water and leave to settle. At first the water will become cloudy due to the development of bacteria, but after a while it will become clear again.
After the turbidity of the water has gone, its parameters are measured. If they meet the standards, vegetation is planted and aquatic inhabitants are populated.

The aquarium is considered completely filled when 5-7 cm remains to the top edge. Water cannot be poured to the very top. The indentation prevents the fish from jumping out of the tank. This is a necessary air gap, which is of great importance for tanks covered with a lid.

Rainy

Rainwater has a similar composition to distilled water. Complete absence of beneficial bacteria and microelements. This liquid is used only to reduce the level of hardness. Please note that rainwater may contain harmful acids. Therefore, it should be used only after tests and in small quantities.

Chlorine poisoning

Reasons: high chlorine in the water, which occurs when tap water is not properly prepared for water changes.

Signs: the fish stay near the surface, may try to jump out of the aquarium, then their gill filaments become pale, lethargy sets in, the fish do not respond to irritations and die.

Treatment: Transfer the fish to an aquarium with good water. Leave water from a chlorinated aquarium for at least 48 hours and pass through a carbon filter. You can quickly get rid of chlorine in water by heating it to 90 degrees.

Gas embolism

Reasons: the vessels become clogged with air bubbles if the water is too rich in oxygen. This happens when tap water is not sufficiently prepared for replacement.

Symptoms: the fish are restless, sometimes trembling, gill tissues darken, sometimes the eyes become cloudy and swelling appears. When dead fish are opened, foamy blood appears.

Treatment: to improve the condition of the fish, transplant them into water with normal oxygen levels.

Specialized drugs from veterinary pharmacy

What is the most famous product that every aquarist should have? Here's a hint: with its help, you can instantly get rid of a bacterial disease called fin rot. Anti-steam treatment is the most modern way to protect all inhabitants of the water area. It is noteworthy that it can be used for prevention. If you bought new live food, soak it in a weak solution for a few minutes before feeding. Also, for preventive purposes, therapeutic baths are carried out. — 1 ml per 10 liters of water, exposure time 3 hours. In such a bath you can keep new residents who came to you from the store, algae and soil.

If signs of the disease are already present, everything can be corrected. In this case, all lighting devices and filters are turned off. The temperature is maintained at 24-26 degrees. The working solution is added every four days. Therapeutic concentration for long-term baths is 1 ml per 50 liters of water. Decontaminate the solution by passing it through This is an indispensable tool that will help in almost any case. So if you buy an aquarium, stock up on this universal medicine, just in case. Judging by the reviews, it can help out in cases where the symptoms of the disease develop rapidly and time is against you.

What diseases can be treated for aquarium fish with salt?

For what symptoms is it advisable to treat fish with salt?

if fish start touching the ground and leaves of plants;
whitish or gray-blue mucus becomes noticeable on their body (sometimes only at a certain position of the fish in relation to the observer);
the body and/or fins are sprinkled with fine grayish or golden sand;
the fins of fish are constantly compressed, they do not straighten them even when they try to swim quickly, with compressed fins this turns out very clumsily;
fish stay near the surface of the water near the air spray;
Viviparous fish make characteristic oscillatory movements with their entire body from side to side, and labyrinthine fish make back-and-forth movements.

How long should the fish be bathed and what should the concentration of the saline solution be?

So, the most universal and cheapest way to treat aquarium fish is short-term salt baths. Here is the method for carrying them out:

Long-term (long-term) salt baths for treating fish: how and why to carry them out?

More materials on treating aquarium fish using short-term therapeutic baths:
» «.
V. Kovalev 04/29/2015

Disinfection of an aquarium is carried out in two cases:

During the initial launch of a new artificial reservoir.
Disinfection of an existing reservoir with disinfectants when infectious diseases are detected.

Main diseases of aquarium fish

Diseases of aquarium fish can be divided into two categories: contagious, infectious, caused by various microorganisms and transmitted from fish to fish, and non-contagious, caused by improper living conditions or large parasites.

In the first case, curing a pet requires the intervention of medications that can destroy the causative agent of the disease. In the second, it is often effective to change the conditions of detention, eliminating the pathogenic factor, mechanical removal of the parasite, or any measures that will strengthen the fish’s body weakened by the disease. But almost always poor conditions for keeping fish and poor quality food weaken the immune system or are the direct causes of the disease.

Timely diagnosis always facilitates the treatment of any aquarium fish disease, because almost all diseases are effectively suppressed in the early stages.

Signs of illness in aquarium fish

Ichthyophthiriasis or spot disease, semolina

Pathogen: protozoan Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. Affects skin and gills.

Symptoms: diagnosis is very simple - the fish itches against hard objects, stays near the surface, and breathes greedily. Then rashes appear on the body in the form of white dots and grains. The disease can lead to the death of fish.

Treatment: daily introduction of bactericidal preparations into the aquarium (malachite green with iodine, bicillin, Antipar, Baktopur) together with changing a quarter of the volume of water, gradual heating of the water by 4-5 degrees will help.

What kind of disease is this

The answer to this question also contains the answer to why, in each individual case, aquarists are looking for a new method of treatment, rather than using an already proven scheme. So what is fin rot? Treatment of this disease is complicated by the fact that it is only one component of a systemic bacterial infection. That is, it is not possible to identify a single pathogen. Several different species of bacteria are involved in the pathogenesis. In particular, experiments have shown that different fish with the same symptoms (fin rot) should receive different treatments. That is why a remedy that helped some turns out to be useless for others.

Treatment

There are actually two options available. These are medicinal baths where sick fish are placed, as well as the addition of medicine to the general water area. Which method is more effective to completely forget about a disease such as fin rot? Treatment in a community aquarium is considered more effective, since you simultaneously disinfect the soil, plants, and all other contents of the tank, which can become a source of re-propagation of the infection. Therefore, today we will talk about these types of treatment methods.

Is it permissible?

Using bottled water in an artificial pond is a great way to maintain high H2O quality because:

it is free of toxic compounds such as chlorine and heavy metals,
always has good transparency.

Ordinary water is used by lovers of artificial reservoirs on an ongoing basis. With its help, aquarists start up aquariums, make weekly changes and top up to replace what has evaporated.

It does not contain dissolved gases and, as a rule, has a slightly acidic reaction, which is optimal conditions for most aquarium fish.

Pros and cons of using such water

Optimal parameters for fish.
Minimal risks of poisoning of aquatic organisms caused by poor water quality.
Plants grow much better in soft water because they can more easily absorb nutrients.
The manufacturer always indicates the approximate chemical composition on the label; this is important for aquarists; it allows for a more thoughtful distribution of fertilizer application.
Soft has a weak buffer, making it easier to regulate acidity.
Some manufacturers, in order to prevent water from blooming in case of long-term storage, add antibiotics. Once in the aquarium, the antibiotic kills beneficial bacteria, thereby disturbing the balance in the system.
Price. If the aquarium is 30 liters, then a daily change will require about 10 liters of bottled water, and this is tolerable. And replacements in large aquariums require from 50 liters weekly, which noticeably hits many aquarists in the wallet.

Carbonated

Using soda is an old fashioned way of feeding aquarium plants with carbon. After all, water is carbonated due to carbon dioxide, which accelerates plant growth.

Therefore, many hobbyists add soda at the rate of 10 ml per 10 liters of aquarium water daily along with fertilizers before turning on the lights.

When did you notice the first symptoms?

The result will be much more effective if you have already noticed the first symptoms of a terrible disease called “fin rot”. Treatment in a community aquarium with salt can only help now. If you neglect the situation, more serious means will be required.

First of all, do a good water change, at least 30%, and set the maximum temperature acceptable for the breed of fish that live in your aquarium. If there are individual individuals that cannot tolerate such changes, they are placed in a separate container. An effective remedy at first is to add regular, non-iodized salt to the water. The norm for sensitive fish is two teaspoons per 10 liters of water, and if the fish can easily tolerate salt, you can add 3 teaspoons to the same amount of water. Keep an eye on your pets. If after a few days the situation has not improved, do a 50-80% water change and begin drug treatment.

Checking H2O parameters

Before using aquarium water, it should be tested. The main parameters that interest any aquarist are:

Carbonate hardness (KH). This indicator is the most important. The lower it is, the better. Water with a KN greater than 6 should not be used.
General hardness (GH). For most cases, this is not the most important parameter, but if the aquarist is interested in ornamental shrimp or finicky plant species, then he carefully monitors the overall hardness of the water. The lower it is, the better. can always restored artificially.
Nitrates and phosphates (NO3 and PO4). As a rule, in bottled water the values of these parameters are minimal, but still, it is worth making sure.

Acidity

The acidity of water pH is an unstable indicator. Its ability to decrease directly depends on the KN. The higher the carbonate hardness, the stronger the buffer and the more difficult it is to lower the pH.

Why is it not recommended to add water immediately?

One of the basic rules for keeping aquarium fish is to constantly change the water. In the aquarium it should always be fresh, clean and of good quality. Some fish owners prefer to fill the aquarium with running tap water, while others prefer to fill it with boiled water. But in both cases you cannot use it and immediately pour it into the container. Tap water may contain some heavy substances that are used to purify it, such as bleach.

In addition, it can be “hard” and mixed with rust. As for boiled water, as noted above, it must be saturated with oxygen.

The use of potassium permanganate in the aquarium.

In any case, to change it, you need to prepare it in advance: pour it into specially designated containers and do not touch it for several days, so that all the impurities settle to the bottom and oxygen saturation occurs. It is also advisable to add it chilled, since it is too warm in nature and is not suitable for the life of fish.

Effective disinfection methods

The most effective and popular methods of treating an existing tank are:

Disinfection with boiling water - when using this method, all harmful algae, bacterial colonies and infections are guaranteed to die. The temperature should be increased gradually so that the glass of the container does not crack. The method is only suitable for seamless reservoirs or with persistent glue, otherwise leaks and damage to the container are possible.
Potent antibacterial agents are used in case of fish infection with dangerous infectious diseases - the tanks are disinfected with a powerful cleaning agent or chlorine-containing agent. You cannot use white in this case! After the tank has been treated, rinse the container with water several times.
Hydrogen peroxide will help disinfect the pond as a preventive measure. The action of the product is not as strong and powerful as the previous method, but hydrogen peroxide is the most careful and safe to use. However, after using peroxide, the container should be rinsed.
A mixture of table salt and thick water will also help disinfect the pond. After mixing salt and water, the resulting slurry is applied to the corners and seams of the tank, then the container is filled with liquid and left for two hours. After treatment, the liquid is drained and the tank is thoroughly washed, since salt is very dangerous for many phenotypes.
Methylene blue is one of the most popular drugs. It is safe for fish, so when treating an aquarium with blue, pets do not need to be resettled from the reservoir. Blue is added to the liquid in a ratio of 2 mg/10 l. The disadvantage of using this method is that methylene blue turns the water blue.
An ultraviolet lamp is another fish-safe way to disinfect a tank. A lamp with ultraviolet radiation can be used as an independent method, and in combination with the above methods.

Disinfecting an aquarium is a simple and effective way to ensure the destruction of dirt, bacterial colonies and algae that harm fish, plants and shellfish. When disinfecting the tank, you should follow the general rules and instructions on the packaging of antibacterial agents in order to upset the ecological balance and not harm your pets.

Why can't aquariums be filled with chilled, boiled water?

Aquarium fish can be considered the calmest and sometimes unpretentious pets. It would seem that nothing is easier than keeping such representatives of the underwater world - you just need to feed them and change the water on time, but no... Like any physical substance, it has many properties that people may not know about when breeding fish. The main criterion for proper water in an aquarium is its purity and saturation with various gases (carbon dioxide, nitrogen, oxygen).

Malachite green is the optimal solution for the most difficult cases

Malachite green oxalate is toxic, but helps to effectively cope with this disease. Perfect for treating viviparous, labyrinth fish, neons and barbs, and various ornamental crucians. But for other fish it is used with caution, so consult a professional who knows well what fin rot is. Treatment in a general aquarium takes place at a temperature of +24…+28 degrees. During the entire course it is necessary to aerate the water well. 10 mg/100 l is added to the water. Doses are repeated after 7 days. The treatment itself can last more than a month.

Which option is best for fish?

There is no one universal type of water that would suit any type of fish. There are several options that you can use and add to your aquarium.

Bottled

It is just as clean, but unlike spring water, it is, on the contrary, too soft, and it lacks the microelements necessary for fish.

Also, during the bottling process, preservatives or flavorings are often added to it. It is best to use it as an additive to tap water.

Features of the composition of boiled water

When boiling, the amount of oxygen in its composition quickly decreases, as well as the number of molecules of the water itself; in other words, it evaporates. If the content of such an important element is low, the water becomes unsuitable for life: fish can get sick and experience delays in growth and development.

To saturate the water with oxygen and all the necessary properties, the aquarium must contain algae or other living plants.

As for boiled water, in order for there to be a sufficient amount of gas in the water again after heat treatment, it must be allowed to settle for several days. Saturation will occur due to oxygen coming from the air.

Rodnikovaya

It is the purest, there are no impurities or dirt in it, it does not need to be infused. However, it may be too harsh. It can and should be added simultaneously with tap water.

Rainy

The most suitable option for clean and natural water. It is better to collect it outside cities and industrial zones.

MANganese in the AQUARIUM

To collect it, you need to use a clean glass container, in which it is advisable to place a filter.

After filtration, it should sit for several days. Then it can be used: either separately, or by adding a flow-through one.

All fish have different habitats, so they need to create individual conditions, pour the most suitable water for them. And in the future, try to maintain the indicators and quality of water suitable for your pets.

For information on what kind of water to take for an aquarium, see below.

Sources:

https://pro-rybok.ru/akvarium/margancovka-v-akvarium-s-rybkami.html https://o-vode.net/kakaya-byvaet/dlya-akvariuma/kakuyu-zalivat/mozhno-li-butilirovannuyu https://vplate.ru/akvarium/ohlazhdennaya-prokipyachennaya-voda/