Soil for a land turtle's terrarium: which filler is best to choose?

Keeping land turtles at home

Newbies who buy a turtle for the first time are always interested in its lifespan.
In captivity, reptiles can normally exist next to humans for up to 3 decades. Much of the question of how long land turtles live at home depends on properly organized care for pets. Inexperienced fanciers often allow them to live on the floor of the room and offer the animals indiscriminate food from their table. The predictable result of improperly keeping a land turtle at home is constant injury, poisoning and the pitiful condition of the pet. https://youtube.com/watch?v=xbqp5cId3P4%250D

How to set up a terrarium for a land turtle?

Most hobbyists keep reptiles in glass aquariums. The land turtle feels great at home in a rectangular tank with a volume of up to 100 liters. It is advisable to leave the front wall of the house for your pet transparent, and cover the side and back walls with painted plastic or a wooden panel. Terrariums for land turtles should be 3 times the width of an adult turtle’s shell so that they can move freely inside.

Equipment for a land turtle terrarium

In solving the problem of how to keep a land turtle at home, much depends on the correct selection of equipment for the terrarium. If you do not control the state of the microclimate inside the aquarium and leave the situation to chance, then the animals may get sick and feel uncomfortable. The list of the most necessary equipment is modest and consists of several items; you do not need to allocate large funds to purchase them.

Equipment for keeping a land turtle at home:

1. Ultraviolet lamp – the light from this device helps absorb calcium and vitamin D3. The lamp is placed above the ground at a height of 20-40 cm.
2. A lamp with a simple incandescent lamp from 40W acts as a heater, necessary to maintain a comfortable temperature inside the terrarium of about 27-29°C.
3. Bath for bathing a reptile - take the size of the vessel so that the water level does not exceed the line of the neck.
4. Feeder and drinker - a flat, heavy and stable container with low sides is suitable.
5. Thermometer - if you are seriously interested in a land turtle at home, its breeding and maintenance, then buy an electronic device with a remote display or a special aquarium thermometer with a suction cup.
6. A hygrometer is a device for monitoring the humidity level in a terrarium.
7. Shelter - you can buy a decorative house at a pet store or make it yourself. The design of the structure is not important for a land turtle, but the internal dimensions of the “room” and the entrance holes should not restrict its movement.

Soil for a land turtle in a terrarium

The choice of soil plays an important role in keeping a tortoise at home. In its absence, reptiles quickly wear off their claws, in many cases pets experience deformation of their limbs, and frequent colds occur. There are several types of soil available that make it easier to keep a tortoise, each with its own disadvantages or advantages.

Types of good soil for turtles:

• coconut fiber;
• rounded pebbles with a fraction size larger than the reptile’s head (promotes gradual grinding of the claws);
• hay;
• straw;
• moss (sphagnum, moss);
• a mixture of hay and river gravel.

Poor soil for keeping a land turtle at home:

• stone chips with sharp edges - can lead to injury;
• sawdust is cheap, but gathers dust and often produces unpleasant odors;
• fine sand.
• Earth;
• Styrofoam;
• cat litter - ingestion of granules leads to poisoning of reptiles;
• paper.

Types of soil for a terrarium

When looking for the right type of substrate for our turtle, we are faced with many questions. Regardless of what we live with, be it tropical or desert species, it is important to know what we want to find. The soils considered are simply information about each type of soil.

Read the article about soil selection and preparation on the turtle.ru website →

The article discusses the following soils for a turtle terrarium: sand, earth, shell rock, pebbles, bark, moss, sawdust, wood chips, coconut chips, chips, hay, leaf litter, grass granules, sandy loam

SAND

Suitable for: desert tortoises (usually sand rather than sand)

When choosing sand as the main substrate for our turtle, we must understand that it is used more often for desert species. Fine sand can create enough dust to cause irritation to the mucous membranes of the eyes and nasal passages. Additionally, fine, dusty sand can cause lung disease after long-term exposure to the respiratory system. But even for desert species, sand is not an ideal substrate. Don't forget that most desert reptiles live in habitats with hard clay soil or sandy loam, digging deep burrows in them, thereby getting rid of the heat of the day or the cold of the night. But dry sand does not support a hole, it generates dust and does not retain heat. Good sand is considered to be sifted sea and river sand, with uniform, well-polished grain. It is very important in terrariums with sand to properly organize the eating area - this could be ceramic tiles, a large, shallow plate, or something else. The main thing is to ensure that sand does not get on the food.

Where to get it and how to process it: Sand taken from the sea, river, lake - before use it should be sifted, calcined and rinsed under running water until it becomes clear. Sand purchased from a pet store does not need to be calcined; it can simply be washed. Construction sand must not be used. It may contain sharp particles and impurities that are undesirable for keeping animals. Sand should not be used for chinchillas; it is very fine and dusty, which leads to respiratory diseases.

Pros: Sand is good in mixtures: earth + clay. Wet sand can be one of the best substrates for females when laying eggs. It is also good for wet areas. Good sand allows you to burrow while maintaining moisture at the very bottom. Of course, it needs to be sprayed periodically.

Cons: We feed turtles in terrariums, so there is a risk of ingestion. And since sand is an indigestible soil, it can create a risk of intestinal blockage, which leads to blockage, and the consequences can be dire. Sand can become dusty. Which can lead to respiratory diseases. Sand is not very convenient for maintaining hygiene. Feces in the sand can cause bacteria to develop, which can result in an unpleasant odor in the terrarium.

We do not recommend this soil for beginners.

FOREST OR GARDEN LAND

Suitable for: tropical, steppe turtles (recommended by German experts)

The first soil, suitable for both moisture-loving species and desert species. This is a fairly dense, heavy, well-fitting digging soil when buried. We already know that when digging, the turtle must receive a reciprocal load when digging, maintaining muscle tone and the shape of the claws. The earth covers the turtle quite tightly when buried. Holds the hole well. Even when dry, the earth retains body moisture well due to its girth. The ground is a substrate closer to natural conditions for many species of turtles. True, it stains the walls of the terrarium and the turtle’s shell, but it does not harm them. The soil can be mixed with sand, bark or moss. It will also be a good substrate. If the earth is used as the main soil, it is recommended to put medium-fraction expanded clay at the very bottom. For Asians, to keep the land close to their habitat, it is usually mixed very heavily with sand. As a result, the mixture turns out to be quite loose. It is quite possible that it will not rot.

Where to get it and how to process it: If we buy soil in a store, we need to focus on peat-free mixtures (there are such, it’s written right on them) intended for growing palm trees, citrus fruits or cacti. Be sure to ensure that there are no impurities such as any fertilizers, pesticides, vermiculite or overwater. You can use regular garden soil. Both purchased and straight from the garden. It is better to take soil from the garden in late spring, when the soil is already dry, but before applying fertilizers. Even better in the fall, after harvesting. You can also use black soil. It is best to collect black soil from a field where nothing has been planted for a year or two. Ordinary forest soil is also perfect. Before putting it in the terrarium, the natural soil that we extract ourselves must be sorted out well, all the lumps must be crushed, sticks or insects (which sometimes come with the soil) must be removed, and baked in the oven for 20-30 minutes. Can be treated with steam. Pros: allows you to bury, holds moisture, absorbs well

Disadvantages: does not allow claws to grind down, is unaesthetic, generates dust, spreads dirt, cannot be hygienically treated, does not release the accumulated heat

SHELL ROCK

Suitable for: steppe tortoises, desert tortoises

The main component of natural shell rock is limestone, consisting mainly of shells of marine animals and their fragments. Rounded shell rock is considered one of the safest when swallowed (in the case of a healthy turtle and good UV, it even serves as an additional source of calcium), as well as dense, heavy, and “fits well” when buried with digging soil. When digging in shell rock, the turtle receives a reciprocal digging load, maintaining muscle tone and the shape of its claws. The shell rock tightly covers the turtle’s shell when buried, thereby helping the shell grow more evenly; the only “disadvantage” is that it does not hold the hole. Shell rock is laid in a layer 10 cm deep; it retains body moisture well due to the girth of the shell. You can also make a wet zone from shell rock, using only part of it, of your choice, in a ditch. Shell rock is an “indigestible” soil, so you should first introduce a small amount of it and check whether the turtle will eat it. If the turtle has not shown any gastronomic affection for the shell rock, you can completely cover the terrarium with it. This is not to say that shell rock easily passes through the digestive tract. If eaten in large quantities, it can cause intestinal blockage in the turtle, and if there are sharp particles, it can injure the digestive tract. It is also necessary to provide a feeding area and provide a good area where the shell rock will not come into contact with food. The good thing about shell rock is that it can be used repeatedly. If it gets dirty, wash it, calcinate it, rinse it, and you can reuse it.

Where to get and how to process: Rounded seashell rock is best. Bird feed can be used, but it must be sifted and sorted for sharp particles, but it does not need to be drained. Before laying, the shell rock must be calcined, washed and dried. Pros: allows you to burrow, looks beautiful, gives off accumulated heat, allows you to grind off claws, does not generate dust, can be hygienically treated, does not spread dirt, absorbs and clumps

Cons: does not retain moisture, requires pre-treatment

PEBBLES

Suitable for: mountain turtles, steppe turtles in the feeding area

Good soil for the feeding area, where the turtle can grind its claws down and not eat the soil along with the food. The pebbles should be larger than the turtle's head.

Where to get it and how to process it: Sold in aquarium stores, you can collect it from the river or the sea. Be sure to boil and/or bake in the oven.

Pros: allows you to grind down claws, looks beautiful as long as it is not dirty, can be reused after washing, does not generate dust, does not spread dirt, gives off heat

Cons: does not allow burrowing, does not absorb waste, does not retain moisture, easily gets dirty with turtle feces

BARK, MULCH

Suitable for: tropical turtles

Bark, like mulch, is an excellent natural material for creating interior soil. Natural bark has a high water absorption capacity and is suitable for reptiles that require higher humidity, as well as for creating wet areas in species that do not require high background humidity. The high tannic acid content prevents the development of fungi in the terrarium. Bark is an indigestible substrate, which is why you need to pay attention to the size. It is necessary to organize the feeding area well so that the turtle cannot grab small pieces of food, thereby creating problems with

intestinal patency. The bark cannot be cleaned, so it must be frequently replaced with a new one as it becomes dirty. Typically, bark or mulch is not used as the main soil. It is good mixed with soil, sand or sandy loam. The bark will help lighten heavy, dense soil and create a more attractive mixture for the turtle.

Where to get it and how to process it: In stores you can buy Pine bark special for reptiles. You can use mulch or soil for orchids, which are sold in large supermarkets or flower shops. When choosing bark, pay attention to its fraction; it should not be too fine. Larch, aspen, citrus, and cork mulch is suitable. You CANNOT use cedar bark; many foreign sources also indicate the negative impact of pine bark or mulch on reptiles. The smell of pine or cedar that is pleasing to humans is the result of volatile oils that can be detrimental to the reptile's health. It is indicated that pine, like cedar, emits aromatic (volatile) compounds, including hydrocarbons, cedar and cadrene, which, if inhaled, can cause health problems for the reptile. It is better to keep the bark in hot water for 1-2 hours to get rid of possible insects. It is also necessary to check it for the presence of sharp splinters and to ensure that the bark is not wet.

Pros: allows you to bury, aesthetically pleasing, retains moisture

Cons: does not allow claws to be ground down, does not absorb well, can mold, cannot be hygienically treated, requires pre-treatment

MOSS, SPAGNUM

Suitable for: tropical and secondary terrestrial turtles in wet areas

Moss is simply the perfect addition to any terrarium. It is especially indispensable for wet terrariums - moistened moss remains like this for a very long time, which provides them with the necessary microclimate. It is also good for organizing a wet chamber, for laying separately in a ditch, and simply giving the terrarium a more natural look. Mosses are digestible substrates. Even if the turtle eats part of the moss, it will simply be digested and excreted in the feces, without causing the slightest damage to the animal. Suitable for terrariums:

• Sphagnum moss (sphagnum)
• Icelandic moss
• Schreber's pleurozium schreberi

If moss is placed along the back wall of the terrarium, around the bathing area and in a cold corner, then when sprayed, these areas of the terrarium become more humid, due to this the turtle can choose the level of humidity that it needs at a certain time. Either it is buried in wet moss, or on dry soil near the front wall or in the basking area.

Where to get it and how to process it: You can buy moss at pet stores, flower shops, or collect it yourself. But when buying dry sphagnum for indoor flowers, we will get a dry, crushed substrate that generates a lot of dust, and even after moistening it does not look very aesthetically pleasing. It is better to buy moss from terrarium pet stores or collect the moss yourself. The one you like best or several types at once. Preparing moss for a terrarium →

Pros: can be buried, holds moisture well, does not generate dust when wet, is aesthetically pleasing, does not carry dirt

Cons: does not allow the claws to grind down, when dried, it doesn’t look very good and gets dusty

SAWDUST

Suitable for: steppe, desert, tropical (but must be sprayed often) for temporary maintenance until another soil is purchased

Reptiles are often kept on sawdust soil. This soil is quite cheap, accessible, but not natural. However, it is “digestible”, i.e. sawdust, swallowed in small quantities, often comes out with feces, unlike wood chips. If the sawdust is very dry, turtles may experience irritation of the mucous membranes of the eyes and nose. Pressed sawdust generates a lot of dust when it crumbles. It's better not to use them.

Where to get it and how to process it: at any pet store, no additional processing is needed.

Pros: allows you to bury yourself, absorbs well, holds moisture, does not carry dirt

Cons: does not allow claws to be ground down, unaesthetic, dusty, not natural

In principle, such soil is good for temporarily keeping a turtle until natural soil is purchased.

CHIP

Suitable for: steppe tortoises for temporary keeping until another soil is purchased

Usually pear, beech or alder chips are used. Not everything is clear with wood chips; veterinary herpetologists note that turtles often swallow it, resulting in intestinal blockage, so it is not recommended for use. It is possible to use very large wood chips, but in this regard it is better to use bark.

Pros: allows you to bury, aesthetically pleasing, does not create dust

Cons: does not allow claws to be ground down, does not retain moisture, can lead to intestinal blockage if swallowed

COCONUT CRUMBLES AND CHIPS

Suitable for: tropical turtles (hardly used as harmful if swallowed)

Coconut substrate is a product of the coconut industry, which is the crushed remains of coconut husk fibers. These are processed, dried and compressed coconut husk residues, which are organic material. Coconut can be reused. Unlike other substrates, coconut can be used 3-4 times. To do this, you need to rinse the used substrate through a sieve, dry it in the oven, add a little fresh one and you can use it again. Coconut substrate is a natural antiseptic and does not contain harmful microorganisms, pathogenic fungi, pest larvae and bacteria.

Dry coconut substrate is even more dangerous if it gets into the stomach! During feeding, the turtle may swallow coconut particles, because Coconut fibers may stick to wet foods (weeds, vegetables, fruits...). What could this lead to? Coconut substrate is very moisture-intensive - it is capable of absorbing a volume of liquid that is 7-9 times greater than its own, while greatly increasing in volume! This means that once in the digestive system, coconut fibers, sticking to food masses and absorbing their moisture, will begin to increase in volume, which will cause obstruction or blockage of the intestines. And then - the death of the turtle. Coconut fiber is not digestible (coconut practically does not rot) and often clogs the intestines, and sometimes can fill the entire stomach. If you choose coconut substrate as the main substrate, provide the correct eating area for the turtle. This could be a ceramic tile, a large, shallow container, or any other object on which the coconut substrate cannot come into contact with the food. Don't forget that the turtle may scatter food while feeding. Be careful with this soil when keeping turtles.

Where to get it and how to process it: at any pet store, no additional treatment is needed, or you can rinse it under hot water.

Pros: allows you to bury, aesthetically pleasing, absorbs well, retains moisture, can be reused, does not contain microorganisms and pests Coconut substrate in its dry form generates quite a lot of dust. This can have a negative impact on the turtle's health. Starting with diseases of the respiratory system (rhinitis), allergic reactions and irritation of the mucous membrane.

Disadvantages: fine substrate generates dust if not moistened, does not allow claws to be ground down, causes intestinal blockage if swallowed

HAY, LEAF LITTER

Suitable for: all types (as part of shelter and decoration)

Hay is often used in terrariums as part of the substrate and a source of food (as well as fiber). There should be no hard sticks in the hay that could injure the turtle. Recommended for use in combination with other primers. Leaf litter is commonly used in moist terrariums as topsoil. For herbivorous turtles, it is better to use leaves from edible plants, and for carnivorous and omnivorous turtles, it is better to use leaves from oak or eucalyptus. Goes well with moss and bark. Preparing leaf litter for a terrarium →

Pros: allows you to bury yourself, aesthetically pleasing

Cons: does not allow claws to grind down, dusty, crumbles, molds when wet, does not hold moisture well

HERBAL GRANULES

Suitable for: steppe turtles (hardly used, but given as food)

True, there is a possibility that the granules contain a lot of vitamin A and there may be hypervitaminosis.

Pros: allows you to bury yourself, absorbs well

Disadvantages: does not allow claws to be ground down, is unaesthetic, dusty, can become moldy from humidity, hypervitaminosis is possible due to overeating

SANDY SANDY

Suitable for: Steppe turtles

What is sandy loam? This is a loose rock consisting mainly of sand and silt particles with the addition of clay particles. Sandy loam is more plastic than sand, but less than loam. More clayey sandy loams are called heavy, less clayey - light. Coarse sandy, fine sandy and silty sandy loams are also distinguished. To avoid confusion, you can remember this: “sandy loam” means “close to the sand, next to the sand.” Why is sandy loam so good? It is heavy, tight-fitting, holds the hole, and generates much less dust than sand due to the adhesion of the particles.

How to distinguish sandy loam from sand, loam or clay? It’s quite easy to determine whether it’s sandy loam or sand, or maybe it’s loam or even clay. To do this, wet the soil a little and try to roll a ball or something like a rope. If it doesn’t work out, then it’s sand, which will immediately fall apart, because its composition does not contain or minimizes silt, pelitic and clay particles, which are responsible for the adhesion of the rock. When you do the same with loam, the resulting ball, when pressed, turns into a “pancake”, the edges of which crack, and the rope only divides in half when folded into a half ring; the admixture of sand plays a role. If a rope and a ring are made from it, and when pressed the ball turns into a “pancake” without defects, then you have clay in your hands. A ball or rope rolled from sandy loam will keep its shape, but with light pressure the ball will crumble, it cannot be turned into a “pancake”, just like with a rope, it will not be possible to make a half ring.

Where to get it: at the junction of sandstone and loam, often such places can be found in a pine forest under cliffs near lakes and rivers - there soil outcrops are clearly visible and you can choose more. Sandy loam is mined in quarries, and can also be found when digging pits and trenches for the construction of multi-story buildings, in river valleys, etc. You can also search in construction markets.

There are, of course, difficulties - the most dangerous thing is food interest, of course. If separating the “dining room” is not a particular problem, then this will not save you from direct eating. From my own experience, I want to say that the further the new dangerous soil lies from the feeding area, the greater the chance that it will not be perceived as food. And alas, many turtles do not dig heavy soil...

CORN FILLER

Suitable for: steppe tortoises (used for temporary keeping)

Pros: does not get dirty, absorbs well

Cons: does not allow you to grind claws, may cause lacrimation, turtles can eat it, it is not sold anywhere

In our biotope terrariums, where we try to create an atmosphere close to nature, there are not enough decomposers, those invertebrates and microorganisms that do the work of breaking down and recycling plant and animal waste. This means that terrariums with natural contents must be cleaned regularly. This is not only replacing the soil, but also replacing moss, litter, bark, and cleaning any living plants living in terrariums. To avoid the appearance of bacteria, mites and other evil spirits that can cause damage to the turtle’s health. So when deciding what kind of terrarium your pet will have - with natural ingredients or more artificial paraphernalia - keep in mind that it will take more time, effort and expense to keep the terrarium's natural habitat clean and controlled!

Author of the article: Yulia Kozlova, Yulia Voronova and Miladyad

Types of home terrariums: advantages and disadvantages

First of all, you need to determine what size terrarium is sufficient to contain a turtle. The calculation is not at all complicated: the length, width and height of the habitat should be equal to 2-6 times the size of its resident.

For example, the total length of a turtle is 10 cm. Therefore, the length of the terrarium is 0.5 m at a minimum. The width is calculated in the same way. The height of the dwelling is equal to the length of the reptile multiplied by 2. If a room is needed for two turtles, then the area is doubled. Nothing complicated. Of course, more living space is welcome.

The material for the pen can be wood, thick plastic, plexiglass, or ordinary glass. However, it must be taken into account that turtles do not recognize the glass surface and can hit it. To prevent this, you can carefully stick a piece of tropical-themed self-adhesive film onto the transparent wall.

So, what are the most common home terrariums?

An ordinary wooden box is perhaps the simplest terrarium. You can buy it cheap or build it yourself. It is better if one of the side walls is made of frosted plexiglass for ease of observation. In wooden (plywood) walls you can easily make the required number of ventilation holes. It is recommended to put thin plastic or laminate on the bottom of the box. Linoleum will also work. The lid of such a terrarium can be made to either open upward or slide to the side.

There are also plastic containers adapted for keeping armored reptiles. They are inexpensive and the main problem is placing the lamp correctly and safely. This also includes plastic cages for rodents and cat carriers sold in pet stores.

Floor. Some owners build a pen directly on the floor. A suitable area of ​​the floor for habitation is enclosed with an improvised fence, the height of which is calculated according to the above parameters. Linoleum is laid on the floor and the space is arranged. The disadvantage is precisely the openness of such a homemade terrarium. But if the owners constantly maintain the overall air temperature in the room at least +25°, then there are no special problems.

An aquarium for aquatic turtles is also often used as a home for their land-based relatives. They already have places for mounting a lamp and holes for ventilation. However, this option is more expensive.

Litter

As I already said, Central Asian turtles love to dig. It’s good if you have the opportunity to purchase a tall terrarium in order to spread the “soil” in a thick layer. But the layer thickness in any case should not be less than 3cm.

As a filler, you can use shavings, dust-free soft hay, corn or wheat cat litter - in pure form or randomly mixing them.

As a filler, you can use shavings (fluffy, large, soft, and not small loose sawdust), dust-free soft hay, corn or wheat cat litter - in pure form or randomly mixing them. A small amount of wood filler for cats can be added to the selected type of “soil” to increase the hygroscopicity of the resulting mixture. But it is worth considering that some turtles tend to eat bedding, so you need to be careful with wood filler: unlike other proposed options, wood pellets, swelling in the intestines, can cause obstruction.

European tortoisekeepers often use grass food for rabbits in granules - it is edible, absorbs feces well, and smells good. However, in Russian conditions this may not be a very budget option.

Diet of a land turtle at home

The health of a reptile directly depends on its diet, so the question of what to feed a land turtle in winter or hot summers is vital for your pet. In nature, animals know where succulent herbs grow that can saturate the body with fluid, but at home, nutrition depends solely on the owner. A turtle needs vitamin supplements and calcium for the growth of bones, muscle mass and shell; without these components, pet nutrition cannot be complete.

What to feed land turtles at home?

The ideal diet is one that contains up to 70% green food and vegetables, a quarter of the food at home consists of fruits, the rest comes from protein products and healthy supplements. Mineral nutrition is made from bone meal, crushed shells, glycerophosphate, and carbonates. A turtle needs pure calcium in large quantities; up to 100 g of this substance is needed per 1 kg of animal weight.

What to feed land turtles at home:

• dandelion leaves,
• clover,
• lawn grass,
• spinach shoots,
• salad,
• basil,
• in winter, turtles are offered steamed hay and alfalfa meal,
• vegetables (zucchini, cucumbers, onions with dill, carrots),
• raspberries,
• strawberry,
• cherries with pits removed,
• apples,
• pears.

What should you not feed your land turtle?

Improper feeding of land turtles at home leads to digestive disorders and serious illnesses, so any fan of reptiles must know the list of harmful vegetables, fruits and other dishes. Food that is healthy for humans may not suit your pet at all, interfere with the absorption of calcium, contribute to the development of gout, or cause iodine deficiency.

Prohibited products for turtles:

• poisonous wild or domestic plants - azalea, oleander, spurge, cyclamen, delphinium, potato tops, lilies, jasmine, hydrangea, mistletoe, rhododendron;
• berry seeds;
• citrus fruit zest;
• tomatoes;
• fruits of cruciferous plants;
• celery;
• spicy herbs and garlic;
• ready-made food for other pets;
• fried foods;
• sausages;
• stewed or boiled meat;
• flour products;
• hard cheese or cottage cheese;
• It is forbidden to offer sweet fruits to turtles in large quantities;
• fatty meat and fish;
• poisonous or poisoned insects;
• crickets;
• cockroaches.

How many times a day should you feed your tortoise?

An important question is how often to feed a land turtle, because its health and life expectancy depend on it. We are dealing with diurnal animals, so they are offered food in the morning or at lunchtime. Young animals up to 2 years old are fed once a day, while adults need dense feeding two or three times a week. Do not feed hot foods or very chilled food directly from the refrigerator. We remove the remains of perishable food from the terrarium after three hours so that the turtle does not get poisoned.

How to water a land turtle at home?

Beginners do not always study all the nuances and conditions of keeping land turtles at home, forcing their charges to drink by force. Many species of reptiles have difficulty drinking water in the usual way; it simply flows out without entering the stomach. Turtles consume the bulk of their moisture together with succulent plant foods, absorb liquid through their skin during bathing, and only rarely approach drinking bowls.

Feeding

The natural food for the Central Asian turtle is weeds. In our area, this includes bluegrass, sow thistle, plantain, chickweed, dandelions, clover, chamomile and other edible wild herbs. You can offer young leaves and flowers of fruit trees, birch buds, hibiscus flowers, false acacias and other edible plants. For the winter, these plants can be stored frozen or dried.

In winter, you can feed various types of salads, herbs, indoor plants, and add a variety of fruits and vegetables.

If the turtle refuses to eat defrosted summer grass, then in winter you can feed various types of salads, herbs (dill, parsley, basil, etc.), indoor plants (chlorophytum, hibiscus, tradescantia, etc.), add a variety of fruits and vegetables (apples , pears, citrus fruits, kiwi, tomatoes, carrots, sweet peppers, kohlrabi, beets, strawberries, plums, etc.).

You cannot feed: onions (green and onions), garlic (heads), potatoes (raw and boiled), animal products (liver, cottage cheese, eggs, fish, etc.).

Since the herbs, fruits and vegetables available to the vast majority of owners are surrogates of steppe grasses, it is necessary to add vitamin and calcium supplements to the diet. As a rule, manufacturers offer a set of such supplements: multivitamins in powder and, separately, powdered calcium. These supplements should be mixed in a ratio of 2 parts calcium to 1 part multivitamin. This mixture is given with each feeding in the amount recommended by the manufacturer.

What to feed a land turtle. Nutritional features.

Shallow ditches, bowls, and plates can serve as feeders. They should be clean, not placed directly under the lamp and filled with food only for 2-3 hours.

Turtle food is a finely chopped mixture of greens, vegetables, fruits and vitamin and mineral supplements. In summer, turtles willingly eat dandelions, clover, coltsfoot, duckweed, plantain, lawn grass, etc. Offer them berries: strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and summer fruits. In winter, feeding a turtle is a more difficult problem. Ideally, the diet should consist of 70% greens and vegetables, 25% fruits, and the rest - various protein, vitamin and mineral supplements. As a mineral supplement - glycerophosphate, carbonate, borogluconate, calcium palmitate, bone meal or ground eggshells at the rate of 100 mg of “pure” calcium per 1 kg of turtle weight. The main components of the mixture should be green lettuce or cabbage (preferably young, with dark green leaves), carrots and apples.

The turtle should not be given milk, bread, citrus peels, cut seeds of apples, pears and drupes, cherries, poisonous plants (nightshades, buttercups, medicinal plants containing alkaloids, and from indoor plants - Diffenbachia spp., Euphorbia spp., Azalia spp., and some others), canned and dry pet food, cereal and other “human” food. Cucumbers, grapes and sweet fruits, onions, garlic and spicy herbs, spinach, cruciferous vegetables (except cabbage), rhubarb and asparagus should not be given in large quantities.

Place of detention

A turtle needs a container (terrarium, plastic cage, aquarium, box, box, etc.) of a horizontal type. Its length must be at least 8 carapace lengths, width - at least 5 lengths, height - at least two lengths. Of course, there is no limit to perfection, so the larger the area you can allocate for your pet, the better.

Turtles by nature tend to actively move, dig, and explore the surrounding area. Therefore, scratching in the corner is completely normal behavior for the Central Asian tortoise. So she's just trying to dig her way somewhere else. But you shouldn’t follow her lead and let her wander around the house. The floor is a bad place for a turtle.

The main mistakes when keeping land turtles at home.

1. There is no need to keep your turtle on the floor. With this method, drafts, dust, dehydration, infectious diseases (including deep mycoses), ingestion of foreign bodies and injuries cannot be excluded.
2. You cannot bathe a turtle and then release it to the floor. A temperature difference of just 10°C can cause a cold.
3. You cannot make a nest for a turtle out of woolen fabric.
4. No contact with other pets is allowed.
5. You cannot immediately plant a “friend” or “girlfriend” in the terrarium. If they are purchased for the company of a healthy turtle, quarantine is required for at least a month.
6. You should not leave your turtle outside unattended.
7. Do not use sand, sharp stone chips, small sawdust as soil, or simply keep the turtle on a smooth surface.
8. There is no need to feel sorry for a turtle planted in a terrarium if it scratches “plaintively” there. Digging is an urgent physiological need for a turtle. In nature, she does this most of her “free time.”
9. If a turtle moves away from the light, this does not mean that it does not need to be warmed.
10. Turtles drink only if there is not enough water in their food. But they prefer to swim and “go to the toilet” in water. Water should be in the terrarium at all times.
11. You cannot feed your turtle milk, bread, or minced meat.
12. You cannot give only one type of food. Food sources of provitamins A - carrots, tomatoes, red peppers and raw liver - must be fed, at least occasionally.
13. Feeding containing calcium salts (ordinary calcium gluconate tablets are almost not absorbed) must be given without fail and constantly.
14. You should not give vitamin preparations (primarily those containing vitamins A, D3, B12) and selenium on the “eye”. Vitamin D2 should not be given.
15. There is no need to smear the turtle with oil preparations, much less vitamin A.
16. Hibernation is not necessary for turtles, and sometimes it is harmful.
17. After handling the turtle or cleaning the terrarium, you should wash your hands, as the turtle can carry salmonella. With very rare exceptions, turtle worms are harmless to humans.
18. If the turtle does not seem completely healthy, you need to contact a veterinary clinic as soon as possible. Many diseases in the main stage are difficult to treat.

We recommend the following books as a guide:

• S.V. Kudryavtsev, S.V. Mamet, V.E. Frolov. “Reptiles in a terrarium”, Hobbybook, Selskaya Nov, 1995.
• D.B. Vasiliev. “Turtles. Maintenance, diseases and treatment”, Moscow, “Aquarium”, 1999.

Veterinarians at our clinic

Issues of hygiene and healthy lifestyle

Regular examinations by a veterinarian and proper care of the Central Asian tortoise will help to notice and prevent diseases in time.

Diseases of land turtles

The list of diseases common among steppe turtles is small:

• Colds , the main cause of which is often drafts. Symptoms include: nasal discharge, refusal to eat, lethargy.
• Diarrhea. Occurs as a result of poor nutrition and is characterized by loose stools with a pungent odor.
• Intestinal obstruction. Occurs when a turtle swallows an inedible object or substance.
• Poisoning. The main symptom is profuse vomiting.
• Fracture or cracks in the shell. Appear due to a fall from a height, a blow or a bite from another animal. Such injuries require increased attention from the turtle owner and veterinarian.

Steppe turtle swimming

To cleanse the turtle and improve intestinal function, it is recommended to bathe it. Adults over three years old can be bathed a couple of times a week. Until the age of 3, water procedures are carried out daily.

A good solution is to install a bath in the terrarium in which the turtle can completely fit. If the animal is active and often uses the bathing area, then there will be virtually no need for help from the owner.

Basic rules for successful bathing:

1. water temperature 30-34°;
2. the depth of the bath is approximately 2/3 of the height of the turtle;
3. After the procedure, the turtle must be dried with a towel;
4. bathing takes about 30 minutes, but it should be remembered that turtles often defecate in the water;
5. Among detergents, you can use baby soap once a week (it is important to ensure that it does not get into your eyes).

Interesting: additional benefits will come from bathing in chamomile infusion, which soothes and softens the upper layer of the epidermis.

Diseases of land turtles at home

Most diseases and injuries occur in animals indoors or outdoors. Outside, they can be injured by dogs, pathogens and worms live in the dirt, and it’s always easy to find leftover junk food on the floor. In the question of how to treat a land turtle at home with potent drugs, a veterinarian or an experienced amateur can help; self-medication with antibiotics or human drugs often aggravates the situation.

Main diseases of turtles:

1. Pneumonia - occurs from hypothermia, prolonged living of an animal in a draft. The disease is treated with antibiotics Baytril 2.5%, Oxytetracycline, Ampiox, Enroflon.
2. Lack of calcium and vitamin D3 - rickets manifests itself externally in the curvature of the shell, softening of the plates. In old animals, the shell becomes unnaturally lighter, and the bone plates become porous. Treatment is carried out with injections of Calcium gluconate, drinking Panangin, and adding mineral components to the feed.
3. Dermatitis and fungi - sick turtles are removed at home, the shell is treated with peroxide, Lamisil or Nizoral ointment. You can make compresses with napkins soaked in Chlorhexidine.
4. Helminthiasis - use Wolbazen, Nemozol, Praziquantel. Be sure to check the dosage of the drug with your veterinarian.
5. Renal failure - treatment is carried out under the supervision of a specialist using Hartmann's solution, Calcium borogluconate, Dicynon, Catozal.

Hibernation

The Central Asian tortoise leaves for wintering at a time when temperature conditions change for a long time. In the wild, hibernation occurs after the average temperature of the habitat drops below 17°. The duration of this period is usually no more than 6 months.

In home conditions, it is difficult to properly organize “wintering.”

Important! Sick and still recovering turtles should not be sent into hibernation.

Pros and cons of wintering

Positive aspects of hibernation:

• normalization of hormonal status;
• synchronization of sexual activity in males and follicular growth in females;
• The activity of the thyroid gland remains normal.

The main disadvantage of hibernation at home is the high probability of the animal's subsequent illness or death. This happens due to errors in organizing wintering.

Central Asian tortoise in nature

The main errors include:

1. incorrect temperature conditions;
2. low humidity levels;
3. sudden interruption of hibernation.

Selection and arrangement of a terrarium for a land turtle.

So, to keep land turtles you need a terrarium. The terrarium should be spacious, preferably rectangular. For one medium-sized turtle (7-12 cm), a volume of 60-100 liters is sufficient. The width of the terrarium should be 2-3 times the width of the largest turtle living in it, so that the animals can easily move around in it.

It is convenient to use an ordinary electric light bulb (for example, a table lamp) as a heat source, which should provide uniform heating of the area where all the animals living in it could simultaneously sit. The temperature range in the terrarium should be 25-35°C.

Many turtles in captivity willingly lie in the water. Drinking bowls and trays with water must be sunk into the ground so that their edges do not put pressure on the animal’s neck from below while drinking. Deep trays should have convenient ladders to facilitate the exit of turtles from them, and the water level in them should not exceed half the height of the shell of the smallest of them. It is good for turtles to take warm baths (35°C) 1-2 times a month, which helps cleanse the intestines and stimulate the appetite. After bathing, turtles are wiped dry so that they do not catch a cold from random drafts.

There must be soil in the terrarium. It is best to use river gravel or a mixture of sifted earth and rounded pebbles. Layer thickness 3-10 cm. Sand, granite chips, peat and shavings are a bad type of soil.

All land turtles need shelter. Often, for these purposes, wooden boxes turned upside down with a sawn-out entrance are used. Half a flower pot, sawn lengthwise, is also suitable.

It is better to spray adult turtles once a day with water from a spray bottle, but so that the soil in the terrarium does not get wet. The air humidity in the terrarium should be low, except in the spring season.

Caring for a pet turtle. Need for warmth and light.

In winter, land turtles, especially young ones, are irradiated with ultraviolet light for 3-4 minutes 3 times a week. The so-called “tanning lamp” is well suited for this purpose. But even more convenient are lamps produced by foreign industry specifically for ultraviolet irradiation of reptiles. The products of one such company, Repti Glo, can be found in pet stores.

The most convenient way is to connect all the lamps to a special timer, which can also be found in pet stores. It will automatically turn them on and off at the set time. Since most animals have internal clocks and sense time to within minutes, this can be especially important for establishing well-trained circadian rhythms.

Despite any lamps, what animals need most is real sunlight, so in the summer you should definitely walk with turtles. In this case, the temperature outside should not be lower than 25°C. During your walk, you should avoid direct sunlight (it is better to place the turtles in the shade), crows (they can carry your turtle away), and walking dogs of any size to avoid injury.

With proper, stable maintenance, a turtle can live for decades without stress.

Optional equipment

In one of the corners of the terrarium you should install a mirror lamp with a power of 40-60W at a height of 25-35cm. In this warm corner she will warm herself and have a meal. The lamp should warm the air in this place to a temperature of +30°C and not lower, but not higher than +35°C.

The air temperature of the opposite corner, which is not warmed up, should not fall below +23°C, and it is not recommended to warm the terrarium from below, this can harm its health.

In summer, it can be taken out in the sun. The duration of such walks can be 1 hour, but every day, if weather conditions permit.

Heating and UV irradiation

The sun in the steppe is scorching, hot, and after sunset the temperature drops quite quickly. In addition, the need for warmth strongly depends on the physiological and physical state of the turtle (molting, rutting, state before or after hibernation, illness, etc.). Therefore, turtles need to be able to independently regulate the amount of heat they receive. To do this, install an incandescent lamp in the terrarium (the most convenient is a mirror one, it heats more precisely), under which it should be 34-37°C. The opposite corner should be at room temperature (not higher than 25°C).

To obtain sufficient insolation, it is also necessary to install a UV lamp in the terrarium. Special terrarium lamps with a UVB content of 8-10% (ReptiGlo 10.0, ReptiZoo 10.0, etc.) are suitable.

You cannot use lamps for room disinfection, erythema lamps and UV lamps for physiotherapy - their spectrum differs from that needed by a turtle and can lead to serious health problems (corneal burns, neoplasms, etc.).

The heating lamp and UV lamp should be turned on 10-12 hours a day. It is convenient to use a mechanical or electronic timer.

WHAT TO PAY ATTENTION TO WHEN BUYING?

A positive quality of such a home is that you can adjust the desired temperature, because... it has special mounts for lamps. It would be better if one of the walls is removable, because the turtle needs soil for a comfortable life. When buying terrariums from other materials, it is also better to pay attention to the ease of disassembly.

As for the size of the dwelling, it should be approximately 6 times the size of the animal itself. Ideally, the volume should be several meters. If you have more than one turtle, then you need to calculate the volume for each one so that they are comfortable.

If you are in doubt about the age of your pet, it is better to choose a home “for growth.” In nature, turtles move freely, so the larger the terrarium, the more comfortable your pet’s existence will be. This is the convenience of a glass terrarium, because it has a displacement, and you can accurately determine the desired size.

Video: Compatibility with other fish

Soil selection

In home improvement, as already mentioned, a soil layer is required. If it is not there, the turtle, crawling, can grind off its claws or damage its paws. Many people consider it acceptable to replace soil with hay for rodents. It is better not to do this, because the branches can cause damage to the animal.

Read what types of terrariums there are for red-eared turtles, temperature, lighting.

From here you will find out how long a red-eared turtle can live in optimal home conditions.

What to do if the red-eared turtle stops eating and does not open its eyes - more about that here.

The best soil would be sand and gravel, large pebbles, sawdust and wood chips. It is possible to use several types of filler at once.

It is necessary to avoid sharp and small elements in filling the home.

Soil has many functions: it absorbs liquid feces and dirt, maintains moisture levels, and turtles love to burrow into it.

Features of reproduction

For captive breeding to be successful, you need to purchase a pair of approximately the same age and size. The female can be distinguished by a dent on the plastron in the tail, while the male's tail is wider and longer.

In land turtles, the mating period begins in February (after emerging from hibernation) and lasts until August. The female carries the eggs for several months and then lays them. There can be from 2 to 6 eggs. Then incubation lasts for two months, and the temperature should be 28-30 C. The size of the hatched turtles is 2.5 centimeters.

An interesting fact is that at high temperatures, females are born more often, and at lower temperatures, males are born.

Carefully monitor the temperature in the incubator with Central Asian turtle eggs

Appearance of the terrarium and material of manufacture

The material most often used to make a terrarium is plexiglass, regular thick glass or non-toxic plastic. Breeders love to watch their pets and therefore the terrarium is most often made completely transparent. This can lead to the turtle, not noticing the obstacle, hitting its head against the walls of its home. If you are faced with such a situation, then it is best to paint or decorate the walls of the terrarium.

Externally, the terrarium resembles a transparent box of a square or, most often, rectangular shape. The terrarium must be tightly closed to prevent pets from escaping and have ventilation holes.

Experienced breeders recommend purchasing a terrarium with sliding or opening front doors. This design is the most convenient and provides access to the entire space of the terrarium for high-quality cleaning.

Description of the Central Asian turtle

Central Asian tortoise photo

This is an ordinary turtle, which is represented by millions of people. The carapace is divided into two halves: the carapace, the upper part, consists of 13 irregularly shaped scutes, and the plastron, the lower part, consists of 16 scutes. On the sides of the carapace there are another 25 horny plates. There are 4 fingers on each forelimb. The color of the shell has a lot of shades: brown, dark green, sand, emerald, with a clear or vague pattern.

The animal grows throughout its life, becoming sexually mature at 10 years.

Turtles are wild reptiles. About the difficulties of adaptation to captivity.

The vast majority of turtle diseases are associated with improper husbandry. Insufficient heating and humidity, improper diet, lack of ultraviolet radiation, vitamins and mineral supplements, disrupted wintering regime - all this leads to a gradual, often very slow progressive development of disorders in the animal’s body.

Not all wild animals are able to adapt to captivity conditions. Even in professional turtle collections, maladaptation syndrome is one of the most common causes of death in captivity. For some reason, we consider turtles practically pets. In fact, these are quite wild reptiles, and only a few species breed successfully on farms. Most turtles taken from the wild take many months to adapt to captivity conditions. However, their behavior remains outwardly quite normal. However, this does not exclude the possibility of stress. As a result, any acute effects on the body can cause a shift in the precarious balance achieved during the adaptation period. For example, after receiving milk, some turtles can survive this stress quite calmly, while others will die within 24 hours with a clinical picture of acute colitis. Some apparently normal turtles will survive several months of hibernation at room temperature, while others will die or “wake up” with severe lung or kidney pathology.

There can be a lot of discussion about the correctness of the conditions of detention. There is also an “anti-terrarium” approach to keeping turtles (that is, keeping them “free grazing” in an apartment). It is based on the positive experience of keeping many animals in such conditions. Indeed, firstly, in such an area the turtle can navigate and choose conditions suitable for it independently (if the range of proposed conditions “fits” within the boundaries of its environmental requirements). Secondly, the negative influences of a closed small volume (relative constancy of environmental conditions, etc.) are excluded. However, such content has many more disadvantages. Almost always, light, temperature and humidity will be too low, and dust, allergies and the risk of injury will be too high. In addition, the turtle must dig the ground, chew some abrasive material (and not collect wool, garbage and small objects from the floor) and hibernate in the necessary conditions (or not hibernate at all).

As a result, poor ugly creatures are brought to the reception, driven to the limit, sometimes with the best intentions. Most often, they regret putting the turtle in an aquarium because it scratches pitifully there, they don’t feed carrots because it “doesn’t like them,” they don’t turn on the heating because it hides from the light, they drip oil vitamins into the food (the more, the better ) etc. Once again we consider it necessary to emphasize: we insist that the conditions of detention must comply with the rules, especially during the period of treatment.

Land pet turtles: everything you need to know about such a pet

Land turtles are considered one of the best types for keeping at home, as they are characterized by increased vitality and unpretentiousness to their habitat. They easily adapt to a new location, do not require particularly difficult conditions of maintenance and care, have small dimensions suitable for an apartment and are relatively inexpensive. All these advantages contribute to the fact that representatives of this type are most often chosen as such an exotic pet.