Aquarium mosses: 17 species with photos and descriptions, contents

Stabilized moss - pros and cons

Moss becomes stabilized after it is soaked in a stabilizing solution. As a result of soaking, the water in the plant cells is replaced by a specially selected substance (most often glycerin), and the moss itself acquires new characteristics that are valuable for decoration. The prepared material has the following properties:

• Environmental friendliness. Despite the processing, it remains a natural material: hypoallergenic and completely safe for people and animals.
• Appearance. If the treatment was carried out correctly, the plant remains elastic and brightly colored. In the right conditions, the appearance lasts for years.
• Possibilities. Stabilized moss has great design potential. There are different types of plants found in nature, and they can be given different looks.

Eco-style decorSource pikabu.ru

The finished decor does not require any care and is not afraid of common plant pests.

Stabilized plants have several disadvantages:

• The effect of the embalming composition does not last forever. Moss treated according to all the rules will retain its appearance for a maximum of 6-7 years.
• The finished material offered by companies can hardly be called budgetary. Therefore, many strive to get it themselves.
• Some formulations (depending on the recipe) have a pungent odor that dissipates in several days.

Decor options made from natural materialsSource amazon.com

Decorative properties of weeping moss in an aquarium

Beautiful placement of moss significantly improves the appearance of the aquarium. Weeping moss can be fixed to stones or driftwood. To do this, you can use fishing line or nylon thread. You should not expect that newly acquired moss will begin to grow quickly. This plant requires time to adapt, which can take up to several weeks. Only after the moss gets used to the new conditions will it begin to grow rapidly.

Weeping moss is an ideal plant for decorative aquariums. For example, if moss is attached to a piece of driftwood, it will soon begin to resemble a real weeping willow. It is possible to trim the moss sprigs with scissors to create shape, but it is best for the plant to let it grow naturally.

Breeding

Breeding corn snakes at home is quite possible. Sexual maturity in reptiles of this species occurs at the age of 2-3 years. Females mature a little later than males. Corn snakes are classified as oviparous snakes. Copulation is short-lived, lasting 10-20 minutes. After mating, after one to two months, the females lay eggs. You need to make sure in advance that there is a ditch with sphagnum next to it at this time. It is there that she will lay a clutch of 6-35 eggs. This is where the participation of the snake in the production of offspring ends. The eggs must be placed in an incubator where the temperature is maintained at 27-29 degrees. The incubation period is 50-75 days, after which small corn snakes hatch from the eggs, their length is approximately 200-240 mm. The babies will start feeding after the first molt.

Lighting

Corn snakes can survive without ultraviolet lighting. In practice, it is best to avoid placing the terrarium in direct sun, as this can lead to overheating and other unpleasant consequences. Normal lighting (fluorescent lamps) in the terrarium, preferably in a container, should not be placed in any lamps. Typically, maize snakes are managed on a 12 hour light/12 hour no light cycle.

Shelters

Snake shelter

One of the fundamental factors ensuring active feeding behavior is the presence of shelter in the terrarium. The corn snake, like most snakes, feels more comfortable when it has a place to hide and feels safe. The shelter should be of such a size that the snake can fit in completely, but at the same time close enough so that it touches its walls, curled up. A box of a suitable size with a small hole cut out on the side may be suitable as a shelter; shelters can also be purchased at pet stores. It is advisable to place two shelters: one in a warm corner of the terrarium, the second in a cold one, so that the animal does NOT have to choose between safety and thermoregulation. In some cases, corn snakes, which have no way to hide, begin to become stressed and refuse to eat.

This is interesting: What does a viper look like; common viper and other species, reproduction of poisonous snakes - we explain in detail

Conditions for keeping Monosolenium or Pellia in an aquarium (lat. Monosolenium tenerum, Pellia)

While in aquariums, the monosolenium should receive enough light and carbon dioxide, maintain a moderate temperature (from 5 to 29 ° C) and the level of phosphates, however, you should not get carried away with phosphates, it is advisable to maintain a nitrate-phosphate ratio of 15 to 1. And for the first week After planting, refrain from fertilizing. Please note that no matter how quickly the moss grows, it will not cope with all the phosphates dissolved in the water, which will lead to the appearance of unwanted algae. For biological balance, other fast-growing plants must be present in the aquarium.

Do not place herbivorous fish here under any circumstances. There should also be no large fish in the aquarium, they can break or damage the Monosolenium, but small fish will swim around it, as a result the plant will move and eventually grow throughout the aquarium.

The first planting is very difficult because the plant is fragile and easily falls apart during transportation. Therefore, first it is attached to a stone or driftwood using a fishing net, and only then is it transported. It will be safer to position the colony so that the liverwort thaw is intertwined with the stems of other plants. The work done will deserve the title of jewelry precision.

Maintenance and care

It is not surprising that aquarium moss is very often used to decorate aquariums, since the presence of moss in an aquarium is the best place for spawning of certain types of fish, is included in the diet of fish, saturates the water with oxygen, and sometimes serves as a good shelter.

Keeping them in an aquarium, provided the necessary conditions are met, is not difficult. The most important thing is to provide clean water, aeration, regularly clean and remove algae from the moss. Also, a sufficient amount of light from 0.5 to 0.7 W/l should enter the aquarium with moss. Content indicators depend on the type: temperature from +18-30 °C, acidity from 5-8 pH, hardness from 4-20 ° dH.

Habits and characteristics of cichlazoma

An important distinguishing feature of Barton from other species of cichlase is the protection of a certain territory, approximately within a radius of 30 cm in the middle and lower layers of water. If others do not trespass, then they are relatively safe, although sometimes there will still be skirmishes. Of course, veil tails and guppies will not live long, but fish with “character” will.

Territory protection

Fish characteristics:

• Size – up to 20 cm (males are larger);
• Color – black and white;
• Eyes - with a golden iris;
• Life expectancy is up to 17 years.

Aquarium

To keep Barton's cichlizoma, a specially equipped aquarium is required, or rather, with a specific landscape, this is a very important point.

If the bottom is simply sandy, then the cichlazoma will not be able to navigate, this is unacceptable for it, and thus you will get that very angry piranha devouring all living things.

Landmarks at the bottom

Place stones on the bottom both vertically and horizontally, you can even make the task easier for the fish, and place vertical stones at a distance of about 15 cm from each other; standing driftwood, clay pots, and other aquarium decor are also perfect. Also plant plants, either ground or floating. In addition to the aesthetic beauty and orientation of cichlases, they will serve as an excellent shelter for other fish.

To ensure there is enough space for everyone, the minimum volume of the aquarium is 150 liters.

Water parameters in the aquarium:

• Hardness – from 9 to 20;
• pH – from 7.0 to 8.0;
• Temperature – from 24 to 28 degrees.

Be sure to change the water every day with fresh water, about a quarter of the volume, as well as the water filter and aerator.

Sociality of Barton's cichlazoma

From a very early age, fish pair up, forming, to some extent, a family. They remain faithful to each other throughout their lives, only occasionally briefly leaving their territory, which they protect together (photo above).

It is very important, when you have just bought fish, to carefully observe the creation of pairs

“Love” comes within a few days, and you will notice that the fish have paired up and divided the territory. If there are too many pairs (a small aquarium, and the legal 30 cm is not enough for everyone), then the extra fish must be removed, anyway, they will soon be beaten to death

In their territory, fish will dig the soil with their muzzle, which is why they have plump lips, and they can even gnaw or dig up a soil plant.

Diet

Cichlazoma feeds on everything:

• Live food;
• Frozen food;
• Feed substitutes (pellets, flakes);
• Snails;
• Insects;
• Pieces of shrimp, fish.

Food for fish It is better to feed them more often, 6 times a day, but in small portions. Food should only be sinking (although if there are other types of fish in the aquarium, mix it with floating food so that they also get to eat).

Offspring

Barton's cichlazoma is ready for breeding at 12 months. The size of the male will be about 10 cm, the female - about 7. For spawning it is better to use a separate aquarium, it is safer for the fry and easier to care for. The volume of the spawning aquarium is 80 liters, the water temperature is 30 degrees. The bottom should also be decorated with stones and pots on which the females will spawn.

To speed up the spawning process, change the water in the spawning aquarium in which the pair is already placed 2 times a week. After spawning (about 200 eggs) for two to six days, while the incubation period lasts, the “parents” dig small holes in which the fry will be placed. There is no need to remove them; they protect the fry; the fish have no cannibalistic tendencies.

And remember - we are responsible for those we have tamed!

Aquadesign

Echinodorus quadricostatus is often used in large aquariums as a foreground ground cover plant. Indeed, the aquarium plant spreads very quickly, forming a thick “carpet”. If you want to get a separate outlet, you will need to control the appearance of new shoots.

This species is also suitable for small aquariums: it is easily adaptable, does not take up much space, can survive in medium light and its bright green plants create an excellent contrast with other, darker plants. Although in very strong light this plant can quickly become a problem due to its rapid spread, so it is not generally recommended for nano aquariums.

Weeping moss growing place

This beautiful aquarium plant is native to mainland China. In an aquarium, moss usually takes the form of green caps 3 cm high and up to 5 cm wide. It differs from other types of mosses in that it has bright green shoots that hang down, reminiscent of the branches of a weeping willow. Weeping moss has a leaf shape that sharply tapers towards the end. This aquatic plant has a very decorative appearance. With proper maintenance, it grows quickly and will decorate any aquarium.

Spike Moss - Taxiphyllum sp. Spiky Moss

In appearance, “Spiky Moss” is very similar to Rozhdestvensky moss, but differs from it in having larger leaves of bright green color. It is also tougher and has larger shoots. The shoots of this plant have a central stem and lateral branches of varying lengths. Each of its shoots has a triangular shape, which resembles a small Christmas tree. Their length reaches 3 cm.

Spike moss has oval, hard leaves that are thick and have a sharp tip. When this moss is kept in an aquarium under good lighting, it forms rather long feathery appendages. They grow layer by layer, forming bright green cushion bushes that reach several centimeters in height and look very beautiful in the aquarium.

Growing Spiky Moss in an aquarium is quite simple. He is not very picky about living conditions. Can grow in a wide range of temperatures from 15 to 28 degrees and at a pH of 6.0 to 8.5. This plant is insensitive to other water parameters. Comfortable conditions for the existence of this species are cool, carbonated water. However, spike moss grows quite well in warmer water without the addition of carbon dioxide.

Taxiphyllum Spiky requires bright light (0.25 W/l or more). Low lighting leads to slower growth of this plant and the collapse of the bush. When kept in an aquarium, it is necessary to periodically remove the lower part of the bush to renew the plant, since aging lower shoots are prone to rotting.

Spike moss loves clean water. Muddy, dirty water leads to clogging of the plant and disruption of its nutrition. This ultimately leads to the death of the plant. To ensure cleaner water, it is necessary to filter the water in the aquarium. But even in clean water, sometimes debris accumulates in the moss bush, so it needs to be washed periodically.

Spikey Moss forms very fluffy bushes that look great in the background of an aquarium. This moss is also used as the background of an aquarium. This type cannot be used for green bottom coating. When contaminated with silt, this moss quickly dies.

To decorate an aquarium, “Spiky Moss” can be attached to driftwood or stone using fishing line. Such decorations greatly enliven the interior and successfully fill the voids in the landscaping. When changing the interior, the moss on the substrate can be easily moved to a new place without damaging it.

Spike moss can be used to decorate green walls. In this case, moss branches are placed between layers of mesh, which is attached to the wall of the aquarium. The moss grows through the mesh, hiding it and creating a beautiful green background.

Spike moss adheres to the substrate for a long time and firmly; it is a fairly large moss, forming thalli up to 20 centimeters in length.

In order for the moss in the aquarium decoration to retain its attractive appearance for a long time, it should be trimmed as needed.

Advice:

In order to fix the moss, use a thread or thin fishing line, and it is best to use regular Cyanoacrylate Glue-Gel to fix the moss. This glue does not immediately crystallize in water, but the aquarist has about 3-4 seconds to fix it in the right place. Apply a few small drops of glue to the moss, having previously marked the location for gluing. Next, press the moss and hold it in this state for several seconds. That's basically it, the moss is glued on. This is the easiest and fastest way to fix moss. The most important thing is that the glue will not cause any discomfort to your aquarium inhabitants, fish and shrimp.

Recommendations for planting:

• Remove the plants from the container and carefully rinse off the gel-like substrate;
• Trim roots;
• Divide the plants into small pieces;
• Using tweezers, plant the plants at a distance of 3-5 cm from each other;
• Determine the location of plants in the aquarium, guided by the conditions of keeping the species

Important information: The plant is grown in the laboratory In-Vitro without algae and without snails, it can be stored in packaging for several weeks before planting. Please do not open the package of the plant before planting, the sterile environment may become contaminated and the quality of the product may quickly deteriorate. Do not overdry the plant when preparing and planting; if necessary, moisten them with a spray bottle.

Packaging: dense transparent plastic pot with laboratory-grown Meristem plants (In Vitro)

Container size: Height 5.5 cm, Diameter 6 cm.

Weeping moss

Weeping moss photo
Weeping moss or weeping moss (Vesicularia ferriei - Weeping Moss) is another type of moss that is used in aquarium keeping. The popular name of moss speaks for itself - the plant seems to be crying.

Weeping moss comes from China and was originally used by Asian aquarists. It grows up to 3 centimeters in height, the width of the bush is 5 cm, and has bright green hanging shoots.

Weeping moss viping photo

The decorative properties of this moss, in our opinion, are much more interesting than mosses. However, in combination with other plants, the crybaby can emphasize the accents that the aquarist needs.

Weeping moss is often attached to driftwood, so the hanging shoots create perspective and contrast in the aquarium. For fastening, use fishing line or nylon thread. After finishing decorating the aquarium with weeping moss, be patient - the plant needs several weeks to adapt to its new location.

Weeping moss viping photo

Keeping conditions: lighting from 50 Lm/l+, water temperature 22-27°C, kH 4-9, pH 6-8. Good and high-quality filtration is required; mosses do not like suspended matter. The content of turbidity in the water is unacceptable, since when it settles on the leaves of the plant, it not only greatly pollutes them, but can also soon lead to its death. Supply of CO2 and macro-micro fertilizers is desirable.

Weeping moss tolerates shearing well, so it can be trimmed periodically to shape its appearance. In addition, periodic pruning is even necessary, since the lower branches of the plant gradually darken and disappear.

Filtration in an aquarium with mosses. An important issue when arranging a moss garden is high-quality filtration. Mosses do not tolerate excess organic matter and mechanical turbidity. The water in an aquarium with mosses must be perfectly clean. At the same time, excessive filtration (blowing) will also not contribute to the good health of mosses.

An important bonus of external filters is the “flute” attachment. Its use in an aquarium with mosses allows you to evenly distribute the flow of water and this is very important! After all, due to strong currents, weeping moss “disintegrates” and does not grow.

In addition, installing a small internal filter with padding polyester filler will completely remove the slightest suspended matter.

Lighting in an aquarium with mosses. Like any representatives of the plant world, mosses love powerful lighting. If the lighting meets the proper characteristics, the mosses look lush and have a rich color. At the same time, most aquarium mosses cannot be called overly demanding in terms of lighting. And that’s why even beginners can handle them. Specific lighting power parameters for each aquarium are individual, the average value at which mosses feel good is ~ 0.5 Watt/liter or ~ 30-40 Lm/liter.

At the same time, it should be said that too much lighting will require the aquarist to pay more attention to the aquarium, as it can cause an algae outbreak.

Fertilizers for an aquarium with mosses. Weeping moss does not need root feeding, precisely because it does not have a root system. They take all micro and macro fertilizers from water. As a direct feed for mosses, you can use liquid fertilizers - Tetra PlantaPro Macro , Tetra PlantaPro Micro .

An important issue in the arrangement of moss gardens is the supply of CO2. Perhaps this is the most important fertilizer that any plant needs. In practice, it is known that many mosses are able to grow and develop without the supply of carbon dioxide. However, the proper concentration of CO2 will be favorably received by mosses. For these purposes, you can use mash or CO2 cylinders, or Tetra CO2 plus . Objectively, of course, Tetra CO2 plus cannot replace the supply of CO2 through a cylinder or brew. Nevertheless, it copes with the function declared by the manufacturer. It is also good that TetraCO2 plus is not an algaecide.

To conclude this question, it is worth saying that mosses grow quite slowly, so the processes of their consumption of fertilizers are “slow”. From this we conclude that it is important not to allow an excess of fertilizers in the moss garden - “less is better, but more.”

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PRACTICAL NOTE ON GROWING AQUARIUM PLANTS

This note is posted in all FanFishka articles dedicated to aquarium plants. This is a cheat sheet with a link that will help you grow any aquarium plant and herbalist of any complexity.

Most of the reference materials are located in the Aquascape , we also recommend our brochure: Aquarium navigator for beginners: “Underwater Gardens of Babylon” .

The formula for success in growing plants can be depicted as follows.

First of all, the proper level of lighting is necessary.

(light intensity - Lumens)

Next, the proper concentration of CO2

Further macro-fertilizers and micro-fertilizers

Water parameters, care and quality water changes

The gradation of this formula is based on the degree of importance. Lighting intensity is primary, and then descending. Therefore, if your plants have holes in the leaves, they have sciatica (crooked) or there are problems with algae, then please do not read the “bad advice” - this is chlorosis (lack of iron), this is a lack of potassium... diarrhea, phimosis and endometriosis )

You always need to solve the problem of setting up an herbalist from major to minor. Plants will die more quickly from a lack of lighting than from a lack of Fe and K. Moreover, the latter are always present in one degree or another in the aquarium, but it is difficult to measure their precise value.

Below, let's go from the main to the minor.

Lighting in an aquarium with plants . Remember, the most important thing in light is its intensity (Lumens)! All other lighting characteristics: spectrum, Kelvin, PAR/PAR, Ra... are important, but secondary. There will be no intensity of lighting, there will be nothing. At the same time, the lighting intensity must be balanced - selected specifically for your project (height of the water column, number and types of plants, daylight hours).

Based on the above, choose aquarium lighting primarily by the number of lumens, and then everything else.

Lighting is the most expensive part. The most budget-friendly solution is to install ordinary construction-street floodlights above the aquarium . Fortunately, they are now very thin and aesthetic. And believe me, under them everything grows with a bang, of course, provided that all the other components are present.

In order not to be unfounded, here are photos of our herbalists, which were grown exclusively under LED spotlights or with their presence.

If you want professional lighting or aesthetics. Then you will have to fork out some money. The amounts can vary quickly from 10,000 to 50,000+ rubles for a 100 liter aquarium. For example, in 2021 we switched to professional lighting - ISTA Titan . Yes, not cheap, but the lamps are Achon! We have grown a professional competitive aquascape under them. That’s why we advise you to pay attention to them.

Well, it’s difficult to advise anything, because... Everyone has different needs and capabilities. In this article we talk about the products of our partners - Tetra , Laguna , ISTA lighting .

We tried to briefly and objectively talk about them. Then it's up to you. In any case, we do not really recommend that you pay attention to handicraft lighting assembly from folk craftsmen. Not all, but as a rule, they shove who knows what kind of diodes into such an assembly, assemble it all on their knees... and believe me, more than once on the forum you hear echoes of the consequences of such a purchase. After all, a company is a company. At a minimum, you are given warranty and post-warranty service.

If you are a beginner, your first herbalist, then LED spotlights are your choice. Let's move on, otherwise this note isn't very short =)

CO2 for aquarium plants . The plant is approximately 90% water, the remaining 10% is dry matter. Of that 10%, 46% is carbon. This is why CO2 supply is so important in a planted aquarium.

Plants in an aquarium obtain carbon “from water” - from carbon-containing compounds. But the natural concentration of C-carbon in water is small and is only sufficient for unpretentious plants, but they, and even more so, will be happy with additional carbon feeding. The supply of CO2 can be provided using mash or a CO2 balloon system , lemon juice or other methods.

The best, professional, simple and budget option is to supply carbon dioxide through a cylinder. One thing, however, is the initial purchase of a set: a cylinder, an MG valve, a diffuser…. will hit the budget.

Is it possible to do without CO2, but for a couple of bushes of simple plants ( cryptocorynes , echinodorus , most ludwigias , etc.).

What balloon systems can you recommend? The most budget option is an assembly from craftsmen who sell CO2 systems in VK and on forums. Everything is very high quality.

If you want a branded item, then we recommend the most inexpensive and at the same time high-quality CO2 systems from ISTA (Taiwan) . We have been using them for 5 years and recommend them to you.

On sale you will find two series of ISTA Aluminum CO2 Cylinder cylinders, with horizontal and vertical threads of 1 and 3 liters.

Fertilizers for an aquarium with plants . All fertilizers, of any brand, can be divided into MACRO-FERTILIZERS and MICRO-FERTILIZERS .

Macro fertilizers are nitrate NO3 and phosphate PO4 from which plants take N-nitrogen and P-phosphorus. These are the most important elements after CO2 - C-carbon.

Remember - Redfield's proportion rules . Always keep it under control and everything will be ok. Right, based on our observations, Redfield’s proportion rules only in full NPC proportions. Incomplete proportion - without carbon C does not give good results.

Micro fertilizers . These are all the other less important elements that are necessary for plants (see link). There is no point in putting too much emphasis on them. Firstly, all of them are contained in one quantity or another in tap water and are restored in the aquarium with changes. Secondly, an overdose of micro very quickly leads to an outbreak of algae.

A common mistake made by beginners is not understanding what they are pouring into the aquarium. For example, let's take such a popular and popular fertilizer as Tetra PlantaMin . Read the product summary at the link - it strengthens, stimulates, and gives a chic body shape.

A beginner, without delving into the essence, uses it and gets an outbreak of algae, writes on the forums - “Like, wow, what a bad Tetra.” And the trouble lies not in the drug, but in a lack of understanding of the nitrogen cycle and balance in the herbalist . The beginner has a Redfield bias (let’s say N and P are generally zero) and instead of making up for the lack of these primary elements, he fills the aquarium with Tetra PlantaMin - a micro-fertilizer (iron, potassium, manganese). As a result, going over the micro is only detrimental, because... plants lack the base - nitrogen and phosphorus.

Thus, you must understand what plants lack and understand fertilizers.

How to understand what plants lack? It's simple. Now the market is filled with a variety of expensive and not so expensive aquarium water tests. We recommend inexpensive domestic ones - VladOx drop tests , they are sold online and offline.

We also recommend, let’s not be afraid of this word, innovative domestic UHE tests . They are currently only sold online.

The minimum set of tests for an herbalist is NO3 and PO4. It is advisable to have the entire nitrogen range: NH4, NO2, NO3. As well as kH and pH tests.

Tests help us monitor the situation in the herbalist, but over time it is advisable to learn to see and feel the aquarium for yourself. With experience you need to move away from “convulsive testing”; the best aquarium test and tool is ourselves.

Let's summarize this part. Macro, it’s macro in Africa too. The link above generally contains a recipe on how to make them yourself. If you are not yet ready for self-mixing, then always and everywhere you will find a line of fertilizers from Tetra: Tetra Planta Macro , Tetra PlantaMicro , substrates, root tablets and much more .

Of course, there are many other brands that produce aquarium fertilizers. There is an opportunity, use even ADA products. All markers are different in taste and color. The main thing is to use it with a clear understanding of what you are using it for and what you want to get in the end.

From the professional line of fertilizers, at an adequate price, we can recommend Prodibo (soils, soils, macro, micro, stimulants, etc.).

So, something like a note turns into the Talmud. Which is not surprising - the topic is very broad. One moment left.

Water parameters for aquarium plants. Link1 and Link2 , please look at these articles, they cover the essence quite well.

Here we note that the quality of photosynthesis is influenced by the process of caring for the aquarium: water parameters (kH, pH below 7), high-quality filtration and aeration, competent and timely water changes.

Please study

Foam for a marine aquarium.

Another sacred cow on the forum is foam. It costs a lot and is extremely important, as professionals say. I bought Prism. Hanging foam, a very budget option. With my load, it fills foam by 20% per week, and this is with a total system volume of 900 liters (2 natural aquariums), i.e. 100 grams per week. Yes, the load is small, yes, there are no big fish. Therefore, for starters, you can do without foam. Just start the aquarium, and then you will watch as it loads with animals.

By the way, I’ve turned off the foam completely now. Let's see what will happen next. I’m ready to take risks, tests are ready, but if the foam stops knocking useful substances out of the water, and this causes phyto and zooplankton to appear, then this will only be a plus for the corals. Based on the results of the experience, I will definitely unsubscribe as information becomes available. And yes, I’m not doing this entirely from a flashlight, I consulted with one person whose pen has been working as an O2 reactor since 1995)))

Yes, here is the actual quote (names and appearances have been changed)):

According to generally accepted opinion, a skimmer is an integral part of a marine aquarium. And if it is removed from the system, then it will work, if not negatively, then at least not achieve the desired results from it. So these mantras are repeated day after day on all maritime forums, and God forbid anyone who says that they do not completely agree with such a concept. Each forum has its own ****** and *-*-*-*-* -*, they keep a vigilant eye on dissidents, read “renegades.” And woe to the one who starts arguing and doing everything wrong, i.e. contrary to popular belief. They will cut the skin into strips. Especially ********…. And now to the essence of the question being asked. Let's move away from the “dogmas” and delve into the very essence of the phenomenon of chemical cleaning, in other words, let’s weigh the pros and cons. For the Skimmer: 1.removes harmful organic compounds from the aquarium water. 2. At the same time, it removes detritus particles. 3.reduces the load on the biofilter. 4.enriches the reef with oxygen.

Cons: 1. Actively extracts from the aquarium water microelements necessary for normal growth, coloring and general condition of corals (and here, if there are problems with full balling, the loss of rarities is inevitable). 2. Due to the constantly changing physical and chemical parameters of the display water, interruptions in the operation of the column are inevitable (and this is like water overflowing through the foam collector and getting into the display, or the absence of the foam separation process, which can force the sailor to add all kinds of stimulant additives, which can cause a complete breakdown of bioequilibrium.. 3. An aquarium “planted” with chemical filtration quite quickly leaves the mode in cases of prolonged absence of electrical energy, etc. 4. The levels of pH, KN, Mg, Ca, etc. are very dependent on the stability of the skimmer. It is he who is most responsible for their performance. In our conditions (when there are constant outages and voltage drops in the network), there is no stable operation of the skimmer, and this is more reflected in the condition of the reef than if the first one did not exist at all. 5 As a rule, many technical issues can reach the level of a very problematic possibility of solving them. This includes a propeller with the required fraction of bubbles (often fails), and also low-quality pumps that fail after a certain period of operation. 6. And finally, plankton. The skimmer can remove plankton, which includes aerobic bacteria, from the display to critical values, and this risks the fact that the reef surface will not be processed by them at the required level, which will definitely lead to the threat of overgrowing with lower microorganisms. ===================================================== ======== Once I made a simple O2 reactor out of my skimmer. This was in 1995. That is. This, roughly speaking, is a passed stage. And the problem - whether it will be a skimmer or not - has been solved. Well, as for individual decisions, here everyone is strictly their own master.

So, how do you like this approach? But foam is another very significant factor in material terms.

PS After moving, I connected my small Prizma foam until the aquarium was stable again.

And by the way, as practice has shown, a small foam is still needed. If suddenly there is some kind of malfunction with the squirrels, then he quickly knocks them out of the water.

In the future, I will again switch it to a minimum flow, it will simply saturate the water with oxygen.

PPS As practice has shown, the softness feels much better without foam. Moreover, changes are visible within a week after turning off the foam. Now the only filter elements are “sock” and algae.

Additional recommendations

To create an interesting moss design, there are important aspects to keep in mind. Below are the main ones:

• water filtration in the tank must be correct and of high quality;
• partial water changes should be performed regularly;
• proper lighting is necessary (at the rate of 0.5 watts per liter of water);
• It is recommended to adjust the nitrogen cycle;
• It is not necessary to apply mineral fertilizers, but if they are used correctly, the plants will become more lush and presentable;
• hydrobionts must be selected correctly. The best neighbor for moss plants is the shrimp. Goldfish, algae eaters and American cichlids should be avoided in the aquarium.

Caring for aquarium moss
Only by choosing the right neighbors for the moss and following the recommendations for caring for plants will you achieve the desired result. And as a result, the aquarium is completely transformed!

Video - Keeping mosses in a planted aquarium

Which aquarium plant is your favorite?

CabombaPistiaNympheaJavan mossEchinodorusElodeaArrowheadSalviniaCornwortAnother option

Flexible glitter is an unpretentious algae

Flexible glitter, also known as nitella, is found in a huge number of bodies of water on all continents. It can most often be seen in Asia, Europe and North America. This amazing algae moves very gracefully in the water column, and in small reservoirs with rather silty soil it often forms very dense thickets. The flexible lure also develops very well in aquariums, and it is also very unpretentious in care.

Getting to know the plant

The flexible glitter is a representative of the Charovaya family and consists of glassy threads mixed with each other and painted in dark green shades. Such threads are formed from long cylindrical cells. The stems of the flexible glitter are very strongly branched. This spectacular algae is a rootless plant, and its leaves, located in whorls on elongated stems, have the shape of palmately dissected plates. Each whorl contains from five to seven petiolate leaves. And the color of the leaves can vary from dark green to light shades.

One of the advantages of flexible glitter is its ability to accumulate debris that settles on it. Thanks to this property, the water in the aquarium becomes much clearer, since particles suspended in the water settle on this fancy algae. By the way, it needs to be washed periodically so that all kinds of aquarium waste do not accumulate on it. However, this should be done as quickly as possible, since the flexible shiner does not tolerate long stays outside the aquatic environment.

Quite a large number of aquarium fish very willingly feast on this aquatic inhabitant. And in spawning aquariums, flexible glitter, which serves as food for juveniles, is also an excellent shelter for spawning fish, as well as an excellent substrate for caviar.

Compatibility

Not all plants can be planted in a community aquarium. You should also not plant Ludwigia in containers with certain types of fish. For example, it is not recommended to grow this crop in an aquarium where there are fish that like to burrow in the ground. These include, for example, cichlids. Such fish, with their habit of digging in the ground, can damage the rhizome of Ludwigia, which will negatively affect the development of the algae.

As for other types of herbs, you should select plants whose maintenance conditions are similar to those for ludwigia. So, this culture loves bright light, and this is not always good for other plants

In addition, it is important to plant herbs in the aquarium that will not grow too much and block the light for the ludwigia. Avoid large-leaved green spaces

In addition to its decorative function, ludwigia also has a practical function. For example, it can become a refuge for schools of fry or small fish such as guppies, gourami, and mollies. Some aquarium inhabitants are not averse to eating its healthy leaves, enriched with vitamins.

In addition, like other plants, Ludwigia produces enough oxygen in the water, so it is suitable for planting in an aquarium with almost any type of fish.

Weeping moss (Vesicularia ferriei "Weeping Moss")

Growth rate: Average

Content complexity:

Possible lighting:

Temperature: 22 – 28 °C

CO2 supply: 6 – 14 mg/l

Vesicularia ferriei "Weeping Moss" is commonly known as "Weeping Moss". Its origin is believed to be China, since it was initially widely used by aquarists of the East, from where it was brought to Europe.

The moss grows up to 3cm high, up to 5cm wide and has bright green hanging shoots reminiscent of the branches of a weeping willow, hence its name. This is one of the few aquarium plants whose branches actually hang down.

The shape of the leaves of Weeping moss is very similar to Christmas moss, however, the leaves of the former are half the size and do not taper so sharply towards the end.

Description

These lower plants are found only in South America. The first mention of them was made quite recently, namely in 2005. It is also worth noting that, despite its species diversity (about 300), only about 3-5 species can be found on sale today.

Externally, Riccardia chamedrifolia, or as it can sometimes be called small liverwort, looks very presentable, which contributes to its frequent use for decorative purposes. In addition, like other representatives of the liver, riccardia also cannot boast of high growth (maximum height 20-40 mm), preferring to creep along the surface of the substrate.

This lower plant has a dark green hue, the stems are fleshy with pinnate or palmate branching. As for the archegonia, they are either represented by hairy edges with a specific brownish-pale tint or are dissected. Also interesting is the fact that in insufficient lighting their color can become significantly lighter.

Decorating the aquarium

With the help of weeping moss in an aquarium, you can create unique compositions, and the branches of the plant, elegantly hanging down, will not leave anyone indifferent. But when maintaining moss, one should take into account the fact that its root system is quite weak, so the plant is not able to attach itself to any surface on its own. For this purpose, additional fastening is needed (a fishing line or thread will do).

Using weeping moss in an aquarium, you can create unique compositions

You definitely need to be patient. This is the only way to achieve a beautiful look. As soon as the weeping moss adapts to a new place and takes root, it will begin to grow and delight the eye with its appearance. The plant looks best in the background, although you can experiment with placing the moss elsewhere in the tank. Everything is in the hands of the aquarist .