Caring for a turtle aquarium: cleaning and maintenance

Aquarium lovers value amphibian pets not only for their appearance. It’s interesting to watch them, and if there are children in the family, it’s also educational. If you know how to care for a red-eared turtle and follow the recommendations for its maintenance, the turtle will delight you for several decades.

The phenotypic feature of the turtle, manifested in its amazing color, red oblong spots on both sides of the head, similar to ears, gave the name “red-eared” to this subspecies of turtles.

Reptiles such as red-eared turtles do not require much time to care for and keep at home.

How often is cleaning required?

If contamination is not removed in time, the aquarium water quickly begins to become cloudy, an unpleasant odor appears, and plaque forms on the walls. The use of filter devices helps to keep the tank clean longer, but proper cleaning of the red-eared slider's aquarium must be done regularly. To find out how many times a month you need to wash the terrarium and replace the water, you need to pay attention to the age and size of the pet:

  • for keeping small turtles 3-5 cm in size, very small containers are usually used, which need to be washed several times a week;
  • for young individuals with a shell diameter of 10-20 cm, medium-sized terrariums (50-80 l) are suitable, which need to be cleaned at least once a week;
  • adult individuals (shell 25-30 cm) will need a much larger housing volume (about 150-170 liters), which must be equipped with a system of powerful filters - an aquarium for turtles of this size will have to be washed less frequently, usually once every 30-45 days.

Water most quickly becomes contaminated with food debris and reptile secretions. To keep the water clean longer, it is recommended to use a special fish tank for feeding your pets. A small container is more convenient for eating, and after feeding you can immediately pour out the water and wash the walls.

Arrangement of the island

The reptile spends a lot of time on the shore, so you can safely equip several areas of land. Each animal should have a separate island. One should be placed in the shade, and the other in a bright place. While on land, the reptile receives an ultraviolet tan. When arranging islands, it is important to listen to the following recommendations:

  1. The shore should rise smoothly from the bottom; steep cliffs are unacceptable. You can leave a ladder or a small ladder, use a large stone or a grotto with gentle walls.
  2. The surface of the sushi must be made rough, it must be made of high quality materials.
  3. For several turtles, you will need a large area so that they can be on land at the same time and fit freely there.
  4. If there are many islands, then some of them may be covered with water by several millimeters.

To prevent reptiles from escaping, you need to place dry land 30 cm below the edge of the aquarium.

Cleaning a small aquarium

In small aquariums, it is better to clean with a complete water change. Firstly, with small aquarium volumes, the concentration of ammonia in the water is higher than in large ones, which can lead to diseases in your pet. Secondly, small aquariums can be easily moved to the bathroom or outside (if you have a private home) and thoroughly washed and disinfected.

Preparation

Maintenance of turtle aquariums includes several procedures that must be performed in a certain order:

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  1. Move the pet to a separate container - to do this, use a feeding tray, or buy a special plastic container with a ready-made island at the pet store. The animal will be forced to spend more than one hour there, so it is important that the cage is comfortable.
  2. Turn off and carefully remove the filters and water heater from the water, place them in a basin or bucket to clean later.

  3. Remove the island, large stones, plants and decorative items from the water.
  4. Drain the water from the terrarium - you can pump it out with a special hose, or take the container itself to the bathroom.

Lastly, the soil is removed - material of organic origin must be thrown away, and then it will be replaced with fresh material. But more often the soil is special durable granules or shell rock - they need to be washed separately.

Detergent

Proper care of a red-eared turtle aquarium requires thorough cleaning of the walls from plaque; all items and equipment also need to be washed and disinfected.

It is not recommended to use conventional household chemicals - their components can harm the health of reptiles. It is better to prepare safe disinfectants in advance - a solution of white vinegar (prepared in the ratio of 100 ml of white vinegar per 4 liters of water) and baking soda. A 1% chloramine solution is used as the main disinfectant. You need to wash off any remaining product from the walls using a soap solution.

Cleaning and disinfection of the terrarium should be carried out when the turtle is sick, especially if it lives with other relatives. Reducing the number of bacteria can speed up the recovery of a sick pet and reduce the risk of infection for others. It is obligatory to sterilize the container in the event of the death of a turtle, and before placing a new pet there.

Cleaning sequence

It may take several hours to thoroughly clean the terrarium and all its contents. Following these steps will help you complete a complete cleaning of your turtles’ aquarium faster:

  1. Wipe the walls and bottom of the terrarium with a sponge moistened with detergent. For corners and joints, use a cotton swab or toothbrush. Plaque is often removed from flat walls with a plastic or rubberized scraper; dried dirt is soaked or carefully scraped off with a knife.

  2. Disassemble, then wash all parts of the filter, replace the sponge with a new one. Wash the surface of the water heater from deposits.
  3. Wash the island, driftwood, large stones and hard-to-reach places with a toothbrush using a soft sponge and disinfectant.
  4. Thoroughly rinse the interior surfaces of the terrarium to remove odors and traces of cleaning products.
  5. The soil is washed separately or in the terrarium with several rinses. As a result, clear water without cloudiness should remain. It is recommended to boil the stone soil for 20-30 minutes and calcine the sand in the oven.

  6. Place washed soil on the bottom and fill the terrarium with clean water.

When moving the device, it is important to make sure that the outer walls are wiped dry from water stains - otherwise the heavy object may slip out of your hands. After installing the terrarium in place, you need to place decorative stones, an island, and correctly position the filters and heater.

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IMPORTANT: It is better to install the interior items of the terrarium in their usual places - this will make the environment more familiar to the pet and reduce stress from changes in the composition of the water.

Video: how to clean a small aquarium

Brief information about the reptile

The red-eared turtle or red-eared slider is one of the subspecies of American freshwater turtles. Natural habitat is marshy freshwater bodies of water with weak currents in Mexico, Central and South America.

A distinctive feature for which the reptile received its name is an unusual pattern on the skin. On the sides of the head from the eyes to the neck (where the ears are usually located) there are two orange-red stripes. The color of the shell of young individuals is bright green on top and yellowish on the abdominal part. As it matures, it darkens, becoming almost black. The shell itself is low, round oval, streamlined in shape. The maximum speed of the red-eared turtle in water is up to 35 km/h. On land - more than 4.

Those who are planning to get a reptile as a pet for a small child should take into account that they have an aggressive character and, when threatened, they quickly throw their head forward and bite the offender.

What is dangerous for a child:

  1. If the turtle is not accustomed to being handled , then when trying to get it out of the aquarium, you can get quite painful injuries. She will resist - dodge, bite, scratch and try to push off from the person with her hind legs.
  2. They can be carriers of salmonellosis. Therefore, you need to be careful about sanitization and wash your hands after each contact.


Domestic red-eared turtle

Features of cleaning large aquariums

It is not recommended to lift and carry heavy large aquariums alone - there is a high risk of dropping the device or straining your back. If there is no one to help, it is better to drain the water and clean a large aquarium right on the spot, using a hose and siphon.

Be sure to carry out a small cleaning every day - you need to remove all visible dirt.

With a large tank, the waste and its by-products are diluted. Therefore, general cleaning in large aquariums comes down to partial water replacement, as this is more practical. Some of the water must be replaced with fresh water (previously settled or filtered). The volume of fluid replaced and the frequency of replacement depend on:

  • aquarium volume;
  • number of living individuals;
  • pet size;
  • filter power;
  • where the turtle is fed.

IMPORTANT: If you partially replace the water, you will have to stop using disinfectants.

If washing a small terrarium is not difficult, then you need to prepare for working with large containers with a volume of 80-150 liters. First, you need to purchase a gravel vacuum or siphon from a pet store to remove water, which greatly facilitates the cleaning work. Using this device, you can not only drain the required amount of water, but also remove dirt and debris from the bottom of the aquarium.

Cleaning procedure:

  1. We transplant the pet into a separate container.
  2. We turn off all devices, remove as many accessories as possible, and wash them all separately.
  3. The soil can be left at the bottom and washed with a siphon.

  4. Use a special scraper to remove all the mucus from the glass.
  5. We wait for the dirt to settle after processing the glass.
  6. We drain the required part of the water, collecting as much dirt as possible from the bottom of the aquarium.

  7. Fill with fresh, settled water.
  8. We return all accessories, appliances and pets to their place.

Video: how to clean a large aquarium

Possible diseases

Red-eared turtles are distinguished by good health and stable immunity. However, under unfavorable conditions, lack of care or a poor diet, they become susceptible to various diseases.

The most common among turtles are:

  1. Colds. The reason is drafts and hypothermia.
  2. Eye diseases (conjunctivitis, panophthalmitis). They arise due to dirty water and lack of vitamins.
  3. Rickets. Occurs as a result of metabolic disorders and vitamin D deficiency. It is expressed in various damage to the shell. It begins to peel off, becomes soft and deformed.
  4. Dermatomycosis. Symptoms are deformation and peeling of the shell, the appearance of a white coating.
  5. Necrosis. Can occur when infection gets into wounds on the shell.

Due to the fact that turtles lead a sedentary lifestyle, it can be difficult to recognize the symptoms of the disease in time and begin treatment.

The first signal that the reptile is not feeling well will be a refusal to eat. In addition, signs of illness are:

  • drowsiness and lethargy;
  • redness and swelling of the eyes;
  • swelling, spots on the shell and skin;
  • falling over on its side in the water.

If these symptoms appear, the animal should be taken to a veterinarian immediately. He will make a diagnosis and prescribe the necessary treatment, including medication.

How to prepare water

Before returning the turtle to the terrarium, it is necessary to make the water suitable for it. You cannot use tap water that contains residual chlorine - you must first let it settle or filter it to remove impurities. You can purchase a special solution at the pet store that will destroy all traces of chlorine. After installing the heater, you need to wait until the water temperature in the terrarium reaches 22-26 degrees.

To make your turtle's environment suitable for plants and reduce daily pollution, it is recommended to use live bacteria to clean your aquarium. Acting as a biofilter, they destroy food and waste residues that cannot be removed manually, therefore keeping the water clean longer. It is better to add regular table salt to the water in a ratio of 1 tbsp. l. per 4 liters of water - this will help protect your pet from infections.

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After all preparations are completed, we return the pet to the aquarium. To reduce stress from changing conditions, treat him with some treat. Sometimes a change in the composition of the water leads to the turtle beginning to molt - this process is natural and not dangerous.

To check the suitability of water, it is recommended to use a pH level test - you can purchase it at pet stores and veterinary pharmacies. Changes in the color of the test paper will provide information about the composition of the water.

Land for terrarium

The land should be made of pebbles or smooth stones, which must be formed into a slide. The formed land must be protected with a glass side, which will be secured with sealant. The terrarium must have a ladder to get to land. Land should make up approximately 20% of the terrarium, and water surface 80%.

The size of the sushi should be 2-3 times larger than the pet itself to ensure comfortable placement. An inclined ladder is required when installing the surface. The land must be well secured to support the weight of the pet. An ultraviolet lamp should be installed above the land, but the temperature should be no more than 30 degrees.

How to care for turtles

When planning to have any pet, we must understand all the responsibility that awaits us in the future. After all, the welfare, health and quality of life of the animal will depend entirely on us. Of course, you can choose pets who are not picky about their living conditions, but those who want to have exotic animals need to be prepared for various difficulties. There are many little things and details on which the condition of the pet and its life can depend. Timely care of the aquarium will help to avoid many problems and will make your pet’s stay in your home comfortable and durable.

Among the animals that are chosen as pets, there are different types of turtles. Reptiles require special care and proper conditions for living near humans. Proper maintenance of a turtle will depend on many details, but the main ones will be: the type of reptile, its size, arrangement of the aquarium, and others. At first glance, it may seem that turtles are easy to care for and maintain, but in fact, everything is completely different. They live in quite complex natural conditions, which need to be recreated as much as possible at home in a turtle coop. Only in this way will the turtle be able to please you for a long time, and its life will be active and fulfilling.

Prohibited aquariums for turtles

The following aquariums should not be used for aquatic turtles:
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  • Having a volume of 50−70 liters. If a turtle lives in such a small space for a long time, then over time it develops infectious skin diseases, degeneration and softening of the shell.
  • In which the sushi island is made of plastic.
  • In which it is impossible to install lighting, ultraviolet lamps and filtration. Their absence leads to the death of turtles.

Thus, caring for a red-eared turtle is still not very easy. Only compliance with all conditions of proper maintenance makes the life of turtles long and happy.

Reptile in the house: what you need to know

You should start by choosing the turtle itself. They are different, which means their living conditions will also be different. If you decide to get a particular type of turtle, remember that they grow, especially quickly in the first two years of their life. To do this, it is better to immediately purchase a large terrarium, so that during the process of growth and development of the reptile it will be comfortable and have enough space. It is worth giving preference to aquariums of 100 liters and more.

They will allow your pet to fully move and be active. If you want not one, but several turtles, the container for keeping them should also be larger; reptiles love free space. An important criterion when choosing a terrarium for a turtle is its variety: aquatic representatives will need a large container or aquaterrarium, but land representatives do not need a lot of water. In addition to all the controversy about the permissibility of keeping land turtles directly on the floor of the house, experts say that this should not be done. Such an image and living conditions pose a threat to the pet itself. It is better to build your own corner for the turtle, where optimal conditions will be created for it to stay safely in the house. The same applies to aquatic turtles, only for them it is better to install a lid with lighting in the aquarium so that the animal does not get out of the container. When the reptile has already been selected and the terrarium has been purchased, you can begin to arrange it. If you are not sure that you can correctly select or install all the necessary equipment for a terrarium, it is better to use the services of professionals in starting aquariums.

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Specialists will be able to quickly and efficiently design a turtle shelter, equipping it with the necessary equipment and create an original design in it in accordance with your wishes. Both aquatic and land turtles need to create optimal living conditions that would resemble their living in their natural habitat. To do this, you need a certain set of equipment and materials, with the help of which these conditions will be created, which will make your pet’s life high-quality and comfortable.

Selection and purchase of a red-eared turtle


In captivity, even with ideal care, turtles live up to 40 years.
When choosing this type of amphibian, you must be completely sure that you will cope with the responsibilities and the animal will not become a burden to you. When choosing a water turtle, take into account all the nuances of its maintenance. When purchasing, you need to choose a healthy individual, for this you need to take into account the following conditions:

  • The size is at least 5 cm. This means that the turtle has already survived a difficult period in which most babies die;
  • The integrity of the shell, its strength, without dents and tubercles, the presence of all claws and tail;
  • When selected from an aquarium, the individual must be active, although if there is a suspicious movement, the turtles may hide and freeze; it must swim smoothly and not on one side;
  • The eyes are shiny, the skin is without plaque, scratches, wounds, or white spots;
  • The water in the aquarium should be of medium transparency, or preferably clean. Babies have a hard time with dirt and may have a fungal or bacterial infection that will be carried into your new aquarium.

Please note that an adult reaches its maximum size at 3 years of age.

This is 30 - 35 cm. Often, careless sellers, showing babies of five centimeters, pass them off as a dwarf.

How to properly set up a terrarium for a turtle

What exactly should be in a container for keeping turtles? It is worth noting right away that the list of everything necessary will directly depend on the type of reptile, and the cost of service depends on this. Among the main and irreplaceable details are the following:

  • Filters. They will purify the water, which will make it possible to keep the turtle clean. Remains of food, waste products, dirt - all this will affect the health and condition of the reptile if it stays in such water for a long time. With the help of filters, the aquatic environment is brought back to normal and becomes safe for the pet.
  • Heaters. Installed in the water of the aquarium or in one of the corners of the terrarium. They help reptiles raise their body temperature, thereby avoiding colds. In addition, they maintain a consistently optimal temperature in the container. The heater is installed only in one part of the aquarium, thus creating a colder and warmer section of the tank, which means that the turtle can choose what it needs.
  • Ultraviolet lamp. In their natural environment, turtles are exposed to ultraviolet radiation from the sun. At home, it gets minimally, and is replaced by a lamp with UV radiation. What are these lamps for? Under their influence, the pet’s body produces essential vitamin D3, which contributes to the proper absorption of calcium. If you do not irradiate the turtle with the specified lamp, it may develop rickets. When buying a lamp, it is better to trust a specialist - a professional, since different turtles also require a different radiation spectrum.
  • Incandescent lamps will extend daylight hours for the reptile and help keep it active and developing properly. Under normal conditions, a day for a turtle lasts from 8 to 12 hours, so lamps will help achieve this effect at home.
  • An island of land and a bridge will be indispensable in arranging a terrarium for an aquatic turtle. This part of the container is intended for resting the reptile, warming it and feeding it. It is above the island of land that a heating lamp must be installed. The pet will be able to dry off, eat, warm up and rest, and the risk of getting sick will be significantly reduced. The island must be mounted above the water level, and the bridge must be rough. This will make it convenient for the turtle to climb onto the island or get into the water.
  • For land turtles, you will need a feeder; by the way, it is installed under an incandescent lamp and removed after eating.
  • Although land turtles do not need a lot of water, they still need a pool. They will bathe, drink and cool down in it. It is installed in the ground, but in such a way that it is convenient to remove it. The water in the bath needs to be changed as it gets dirty.
  • As for decorating and decorating the aquarium in different styles, they are quite acceptable. But the main condition must be observed: all parts and elements must be safe for the reptile and not cause it discomfort or harm. Terrariums can be designed to match the interior style of your home, then such a container will also play a decorative role.

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Terrarium for a land turtle

The terrarium is a large box, which can be made of the following materials: glass, plastic, organic glass. Also, the terrarium must have the necessary equipment, which can be ordered from a specialist or made by yourself.

When choosing a terrarium, you must take into account the size of your pet. If your turtle is small, approximately 6-14 cm in length, then a space of 60x50x40 cm is sufficient. When keeping several turtles, you need a terrarium with dimensions of up to 50x50x100 cm. As the turtle grows, it is necessary to replace the terrarium with a larger size. For a land turtle, a container with low walls and a horizontal shape is suitable.

Features of turtle care


To see your pet healthy, active and happy, he needs daily care and attention. But not only the reptile itself requires care, its habitat and home are also no exception. How to properly clean a terrarium? This process is not that complicated. Although there is a filter in the aquarium of aquatic animals, it is not all-powerful. The water in the container must be changed at least once a month, but preferably more often. It is advisable that the water should be settled for replacement. It will be needed to partially replace the water in the aquarium. All decorative elements in the container must also be cleaned, but only with the help of preparations that will not harm the health of the animal in any way.

Many aquarists are faced with the problem of film on the water. This phenomenon can occur as a result of frequently feeding the turtle with dry food. If you do not remove the remaining feed in time and do not filter the water, the appearance of a film cannot be avoided. It is not very difficult to deal with it: the easiest way is to use an ordinary napkin. It is placed on the surface of the water and after a couple of seconds it is carefully removed with the film still attached. Such manipulations need to be repeated several times, and then change 25% of the water and turn on the filter.

It is worth remembering that hygiene products, all sponges and other materials that are used when cleaning the terrarium, it is advisable that they be strictly individual and not used anywhere else. This way you will avoid all kinds of animal diseases.

Caring for turtles should be regular, or better yet, daily, but it is worth it to ensure your pet is healthy, active and lives a full life.

What do they eat at home?

Providing a proper nutrition system is one of the conditions for the health and longevity of a turtle. For normal development, they need to receive a variety of foods and sufficient amounts of micro and macroelements. Therefore, every owner should have a clear idea of ​​what red-eared turtles eat.

The diet must include:

  1. Animal protein. Crustaceans, snails, beetles, food cockroaches, lean fish.
  2. Plant food. Lettuce, cabbage, dandelions, clover, any non-poisonous meadow flowers and plants.
  3. Mineral supplements.


Lettuce leaves
Feeding dry food alone is not recommended.

During feeding, it is recommended to place the reptile in a separate container, this will keep the aquarium clean longer. An adult turtle needs food once every 2 days.

Features of turtle care

Any type of turtle needs wet care, just like its home. Not everyone knows how to properly wash or bathe a reptile, and why it is even needed. Caring for your turtle will depend on its species. For example, representatives of aquatic species do not need bathing, they only need to be washed when necessary, but steppe turtles require bathing because they receive little moisture. The turtle is bathed once a week. It helps cleanse the reptile of dirt that accumulates as a result of digging in the ground.

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Bathing is carried out according to this principle: warm water is drawn into a shallow bath; its depth should be such that the turtle’s head is above the water. If you see that the animal is nervous, this is normal; it will calm down after a few minutes and will rest in the water. The animal is carefully dried with a towel; it is important that the room temperature is not below 23°C. When washing your pet, you do not need to use any additional means other than water itself. If the turtle is dirty enough, it can be washed with hypoallergenic baby soap. The main thing is that the solution with soap does not get into the animal’s eyes, mouth and nose. In case of severe contamination, you can use a soft sponge. In addition to bathing and washing, some species of turtles need to have their claws and beak sharpened. The claws are trimmed using nippers or simply filed. The main thing is not to touch the blood vessels. Aquatic turtles almost never need to be trimmed. Land reptiles need this manipulation only when long claws interfere with movement and the beak interferes with normal feeding. If you are not sure that you can cope with such work yourself, then it is better to entrust it to a specialist, he will do everything professionally.

When caring for turtles and their homes, the main thing is to do no harm. You need to be extremely careful when performing any manipulations with the animal and not overdo it. Keeping a turtle at home requires attention and regular care, but this is the only way to ensure a high-quality and active life for the reptile, as well as its proper development and growth. In addition, with proper care, the animal will be able to please you for many years. Remember, the condition and well-being of the turtle will depend only on you, but if any problems arise, it is still better to contact a specialist who will help you solve them.

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Temperature and lighting

The red-eared turtle feels comfortable in water whose temperature is between 23-28 °C. On a shaded island, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of 23-25 ​​°C, and on a warm island - 28-32 °C. Such conditions are ideal for this reptile.

The main heating is provided by a special lamp, which is fixed above one of the land areas. When it is not possible to achieve the required temperature with one lamp, additional heating should be used, for example, a heater made in the form of a long glass tube. This heater is immersed in water. It is necessary to position it so that the pet cannot accidentally bite the electrical wire or touch it with its shell.

The health of a reptile is influenced by many factors, including the state of the water in the tank. To keep the liquid clean, it is better to install external filters. As for internal equipment, it is preferable not to use it. It quickly loses its effectiveness, becoming clogged with suspended matter.

The incandescent lamp should be placed over one of the land areas. The light only turns on during the day

Be sure to take into account that red-eared turtles need UV lighting (UVB and UVA rays only). You should never use UVC, as such lighting can cause blindness in reptiles.

Without UV radiation, animals cannot produce vitamin D3 or absorb calcium, and this can cause rickets and even lead to death. The lamp must be on 12 hours a day. It is placed on top at a distance of 30 cm from the ground. The UV lamp is replaced once a year. This is the kind of aquarium needed for a red-eared slider. What the decor will be, everyone decides for themselves.

Cleaning and disinfection of terrariums

In what cases is terrariums and equipment in them treated?

- before introducing a new turtle;

- after the death of the turtle;

- during a turtle’s illness, placing the sick turtle in a nursery.

How are terrariums and equipment disinfected?

Detergents should be well ventilated, easy to wash, not absorbed into the walls of the terrarium and relatively safe for others.

During any sanitation, a number of the following general and specific provisions should be taken into account.

The equipment used for disinfection is similar to the equipment for daily cleaning. Treatment of terrariums is strictly individual. Animal nurseries, before each planting of a new specimen, should be washed with a 1% chloramine solution or irradiated with a bactericidal lamp. During any manipulations with the animal, the cages must be treated, even if disinfection is not carried out, to avoid contact with an undesirable bacterial environment. After each treatment, the container for the chloramine solution is washed and filled with a new solution; this rule should be especially strictly adhered to when disinfecting the terrariums of sick or dead animals. If the animal is sick, the terrarium is washed daily, and complete disinfection is carried out at least once a week.

To carry out chemical treatment, use a 1% solution of chloramine (monochloramine) or a 10% solution of bleach. These preparations can be purchased at pharmacies or hardware stores; they are easily washed off and evaporated, which makes working with them easier. The main thing is to thoroughly wash and ventilate the terrarium after treatment, otherwise these chemically active substances can cause external and internal burns in animals (through the respiratory tract).

Disinfectants

Chloramine

Milder disinfectants are Virkon-S and chlorhexidine. The first is produced by KRKA specifically for processing equipment and tools used in livestock and poultry farming. The product has proven itself as a disinfectant for aquariums and aquarium equipment; it is also suitable for use in terrarium farming.

Virkon S

Chlorhexidine

– antiseptic and disinfectant. Depending on the concentration used, it exhibits both bacteriostatic and bactericidal effects. The bacteriological effect of both aqueous and alcoholic working solutions is manifested in a concentration of 0.01% or less; bactericidal - in a concentration of more than 0.01% at a temperature of 22°C and exposure for 1 minute. Fungicidal effect - at a concentration of 0.05%, at a temperature of 22°C and exposure for 10 minutes. Virucidal effect - manifests itself at a concentration of 0.01-1%.

Alaminol The drug has bactericidal, tuberculocidal, virucidal, fungicidal properties with a pronounced cleaning effect.

Septabic Disinfectant in powder form.

ZooSan This is a detergent and disinfectant that contains the latest biopag disinfectant plus a unique odor destroyer. There are two versions of ZooSan - a household series (0.5 l bottle with a trigger) and a professional series (1 l, 5 l, 25 l, does not include an odor eliminator). The household series is ready for quick use in premises housing 1-3 animals, the professional series is a 100% concentrate and is intended for use in nurseries and animal farms.

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When working with chemicals, you must use rubber gloves, which after work can be easily processed in the same way as other equipment. Hands should be washed with 0.5% chloramine solution and then washed with soap. Hands must be sanitized after each contact with a sick animal, and even more so after cleaning the terrarium of a deceased pet.

For bactericidal irradiation, household bactericidal irradiators (OBB-92U, OBN-75, etc.) are used, the maximum radiation of lamps of which falls in the UVC range. After irradiation, the room is ventilated to reduce the concentration of ozone, an excess of which can lead to burns to the respiratory tract of people and animals. When irradiating a terrarium in a room where other animals are kept, all ventilation volumes should be closed and opened after general ventilation of the room. Similar manipulations are also necessary during preventive disinfection of the premises with a bactericidal lamp, if such is carried out. It is unacceptable for the rays of the bactericidal lamp to reach the animal.

, this leads to burns to the skin and eyes, and sometimes simply to the death of the ward.

Pest control

Disinsection is measures to combat various arthropods (cockroaches, flies, ants, ticks, etc.) accidentally introduced into your terrarium and capable of parasitizing your animals, as well as being carriers of all kinds of diseases.

Ticks belong to the Arachnida class of Arachnida and are divided into two orders: Acariformes mites and Parasitiformes mites; many representatives of these orders are parasites of various animals. Mites are not a very common problem in turtles, but they do sometimes occur in natural habitats. The development of acariform mites consists of five post-embryonic (egg) stages: larva, proto-nymph, deutero-nymph, trito-nymph and adult phase. Parasitic mites develop in four stages: larva, proto-nymph, deutero-nymph, and adult. Parasitism occurs at different stages, and some ticks have different animal hosts at different stages. For example, reptiles are often intermediate hosts of many species of the genus Ixodes ticks, which live on them at the proto- and day-nymph stages, while the final host of the adult tick is mammals, including humans.

Over 350 species of ticks are known to parasitize reptiles and amphibians. Moreover, there are specialized mites - parasites of these classes of vertebrates. They belong to extra-shelter parasites, that is, they lie in wait for reptiles in open natural areas. This also determines their feeding behavior; ticks are able to starve for a long time, waiting for the owner, then run over to the animal and, having made their way under its scales - scutes or between them, penetrate with their chelicerae (style-like jaws) into the body of the reptile and suck with an epistome (sucking grooved cone leading into pharynx) blood. Female ticks are parasitic; in one go they suck out an amount of blood 10 times their weight, after which they are able to lay up to 30 eggs. Having had enough, the female falls onto the substrate, where laying occurs. The eggs have very dense shells and can be preserved for a long time in unfavorable conditions, for example, when the temperature drops to a significant minus. Adult ticks also overwinter well and tolerate drought. Under suitable conditions, the development of the embryo in the egg and the hatching of the larvae occurs in a matter of days, and the entire cycle from egg to adult tick takes only one and a half to three weeks, depending on the situation. In favorable terrarium conditions, mites reproduce and develop in record time.

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The harm from ticks is twofold. In addition to being bloodsuckers, they are also carriers of various diseases. Tick ​​control is necessary, but very complex and difficult. Therefore, first of all, you should learn the general rules to prevent ticks from getting into the terrarium. Firstly: this is a thorough examination of a newly received animal, destruction and removal of ticks found on it, followed by quarantine. Secondly: mandatory processing of the substrate, soil and other items. It is unacceptable to place untreated substrates, soils, decorations (driftwood, branches, etc.) into the terrarium, and it is also unacceptable to store untreated objects taken from nature in the room where your terrariums are located. Thirdly: regular sanitary prevention of terrariums and premises.

When processing animals, they are carefully inspected and ticks are removed mechanically. In order not to break off the blood-sucking apparatus of the tick when removing it, which, if left in the wound, can cause local suppuration, a drop of vegetable oil is applied to the tick. The layer of oil makes it difficult for the tick to breathe, and the tick weakens or removes its chelicerae. After this, the tick is removed with tweezers, and the bite site is treated with an antiseptic, for example, a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide or a 5% alcohol solution of iodine. For reptiles with an abundance of ticks, it is possible to completely treat the integument with vegetable oil, after which the animal is placed in a cage for 1-2 hours.

The edges of the depositor are smeared with Vaseline, at a level of 5 cm, so that ticks cannot leave it. After the expiration of the period, the animal is removed and placed in another tank with warm water and soda dissolved in water (1-2 tablespoons per 5 liters) for 2-3 hours. The oil from the animal is first washed off with a sponge. The edges of the water depositor are also lubricated with Vaseline. In this case, you should ensure that the water does not cool down and transfer the animal to warm water in time (not lower than 23-25 ​​° C); you cannot add hot water. To prevent the animal from drowning, a piece of driftwood or a stone is placed in the tank at a depth that will allow the animal to breathe without getting out of the water. After treatment, the reptile is placed in a pre-prepared quarantine terrarium, and the treatment is repeated if necessary. Vegetable oil for pest control must be well purified and not contain any impurities. It is unacceptable to use oil-based vitamins and other preparations to remove ticks.

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There are also special anti-tick medications for reptiles, such as Reptix First Aid and the like: Reptix First Aid is an aerosol pesticide for killing ticks and other small parasites. You can treat both the animal and the terrarium. A non-toxic water solution, which, according to the manufacturer, is guaranteed to kill parasites within 5-10 minutes by blocking their respiratory openings.

Seedlings and terrariums with mites remaining in them are sprayed with chlorophos, karbofos or their analogues. Terrariums containing ticks are treated just as carefully as terrariums containing dead animals. For disinsection, preparations used for domestic animals (dogs, cats and birds), such as “Bolfo”, “Milben-zerstauber”, “Frontline”, etc., are used, with appropriate compliance with the instructions for their use. Some of these drugs can be treated with reptiles, followed by bathing.

Cockroaches, flies, ants and other unwanted arthropods are destroyed in the same ways as in everyday life, but in such a way that these objects, being poisoned, cannot become food for your pet. Global disinfestation can only be carried out when there are no terrarium inhabitants in the room.

Sanitary prevention

Sanitary prevention is regular, strictly periodic measures used to prevent any diseases among the inhabitants of the terrarium.

The measures are as follows: a) once a month it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment of terrariums, in the same way as when transplanting animals from a terrarium to a new terrarium. b) Once a month, the premises (rooms) are disinfected using a household bactericidal lamp. The irradiator is directed upward to the ceiling, raising it above the terrariums. The ventilation of the volumes is first closed. The irradiation lasts 2 hours, after which the room is ventilated and the ventilation of the terrariums is opened. If necessary, irradiation is repeated 2-3 hours after ventilation. During the break, you can wash the room using a 1% chloramine solution. c) terrariums are treated once every six months in the same way as in case of illness or death of animals. d) once every six months the premises are thoroughly cleaned, which can be avoided by regularly maintaining order in it.

Requirements for the premises (room)

a) All holes and cracks in the room must be carefully sealed. This is necessary as a preventive measure in the event of an animal escaping, and as a preventive measure that prevents the possibility of settlement of all kinds of arthropods (ticks, cockroaches, etc.) b) The room must be ventilated. c) Doors and windows must close and lock tightly, without gaps or cracks. d) The room should not be cluttered and should be cleaned regularly.

Sources:

https://homkin.ru/cherepahi/akvarium/uhod.html https://bluebarbus.com.ua/kak-uhazhivat-za-cherepashkami/ https://myturtle.ru/ochistka-i-dezinfekciya-terrariumov/

Equipment for terrarium

To create a favorable environment that will be close to natural, the following equipment is needed in the terrarium:

  1. Various soils (sand, sawdust, stones, pebbles, straw, hay, alder chips) (soil thickness from 4 to 10 cm);
  2. Special ultraviolet lamp (must be located at least 20 cm from the bottom);
  3. Incandescent lamp for air heating;
  4. Thermometer for measuring air temperature (comfortable temperature from 20 to 30 degrees);
  5. Feeding container;
  6. Bathing container;
  7. Water container;
  8. Separate tank;
  9. Home (where you can hide).

Also, when arranging a terrarium, you can use decorative elements, for example, clay structures, depending on the size of the terrarium, various driftwood, paintings for the background, algae, artificial plants.

Cleaning in an emergency

Unfortunately, it also happens that an infection is introduced into the aquarium, which results in the death of its inhabitants. Here simply washing will not be enough. Total disinfection is needed.

For these purposes, the aquarium is filled to the very edge with a solution of a disinfectant (some examples are in the photo). Please note that not all household chemicals have disinfectant properties. Therefore, it is worth looking at the label before use.


"Pomangantsovka"


Formalin


"Chlorine"


Chloramine


Sulfuric acid


Hydrochloric acid

How to wash an old aquarium effectively in this case? Aquarists recommend using the following:

  • Potassium permanganate solution.
  • Formalin solution.
  • Bleach solution.
  • Chloramine solution.
  • A solution of sulfuric or hydrochloric acid.

After disinfection has been carried out, the aquarium is washed very thoroughly and left for disinfection for a day. It is better to heat treat all equipment. Namely, boil it.

The video in this article will tell you a number of other tips on the topic.

Advice! If mycobacteriosis is noticed, then the aquarium is filled with a solution of washing powder at the rate of 0.5 kg of detergent per 30 liters of water.

Cleaning Tools

We advise you to purchase in advance the materials with which you will clean your aquarium.

Magnetic brushes or scrapers for aquariums.What is the best way to clean the walls of an aquarium? The tool is used when the walls are covered with a green coating or brown spots.
Please note that this innovation should be used with extreme caution - if even a grain of sand gets between it and the glass, there is a high chance of scratching the surface.

Careless, inattentive cleaning with scrapers leads not only to an unsightly aesthetic appearance. Remember that under water pressure, a scratch can develop into a crack, which threatens a flood and disaster for the inhabitants.

Sponge for washing dishesIdeal for everyday cleaning. What is noteworthy is that the instrument has a soft and hard side. The first we carry out general wiping, the second we fight dirt.
It is almost impossible to damage the walls of the aquarium with a sponge - after all, you are working with your own hands and feel the force of pressure and pressure. In addition, if a microparticle of soil gets on the glass, it is unlikely to cause a scratch.

After washing, the sponge must be rinsed under running water and dried!

ToothbrushGreat for cleaning walls and decor. You can use a toothbrush to clean mini-aquariums and small parts without fear.

Now let’s move on directly to the schedule for washing aquariums.


How to clean an aquarium - use a regular toothbrush

Recommendations before cleaning

Here are some useful tips:

  • In fact, the aquarium can be cleaned with any “chemistry” - from household soap to Domestos. But you need to take into account an important point - the more aggressive the product, the more difficult it is to get rid of it completely. Leaving a container unwashed is detrimental to its inhabitants.
  • Don’t forget to clean not only the new aquarium, but also the decor and soil - colored chips, sand, quartz, gravel. Of course, we will not wash plant substrates.
  • If you have a large aquarium, then it is cleaned at the installation site. Old water is pumped out using a pump and hose. In this case, we will not use “chemistry” - there is no way to wash it off. Use hydrogen peroxide from the pharmacy - it is safe for fish and does not require rinsing.


And soap can be used in cleaning

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