Who lives at the bottom of the ocean: the most amazing deep-sea fish

MAINTENANCE AND NUTRITION OF NEON FISH

You can feed neon with any food for small fish. Alternate frozen, artificial and live food - this will improve the quality of life of your fish. And once a week it is possible and even beneficial to give them a fasting day.

A large aquarium is not required, if you don't have a school of fish. Neon does not float with the current, which means you don't need a compressor; the fewer bubbles in the aquarium, the better. At the right temperature in the aquarium, the lifespan of fish increases, 22 degrees is the best solution, about 28 degrees the fish will live 1.5 years or less.

Neons are one of the most low-maintenance species of aquarium fish. Buying this fish will be the right choice for a novice aquarist, since keeping these neon beauties does not require high training and should not be difficult even for a beginner.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with Month-old piglets weight, cost of maintenance

These are very peaceful fish that have a good disposition and are able to get along well with any neighbors in the aquarium and never show aggression on their part. Neons also have good health and are not a fish species prone to frequent diseases.

However, this fish still has some grooming needs. And compliance with these certain conditions will help to avoid any problems with their health.

The main and most significant condition for keeping neons on their lifespan can be considered compliance with the optimal temperature level inside the aquarium. The nature of neon is designed in such a way that at temperatures above 23 degrees the fish ages faster.

The best temperature regime will be 18-22 degrees, and it is at this temperature that neons can live their required 3-4 years. If the water temperature in the aquarium is 25-27 degrees, it is unlikely that your neon will last more than 1.5 years. A high degree increases the biorhythm of neons, and this fact should be taken into account primarily when maintaining them.

Next, it is worth noting the need for neon to provide high-quality water aeration and filtration. It is also necessary to prevent stagnation of water and change it once a week. Neons are not particularly demanding regarding water hardness and acidity.

Based on the bottom lifestyle of neons, the need for the correct choice of soil and scenery follows. The soil should be dark, and at the bottom there should be enough of all kinds of grottoes and shelters. This will help recreate the natural habitat of neons as best as possible and will make the life of your charges as fulfilling and comfortable as possible.

To contain one neon, 2.5 liters are required. water. Let us remind you once again that neonfish are a schooling species, and at least 5-7 individuals should be kept in one aquarium at a time. Therefore, the tank must also have a reserve and its capacity is 12-14 liters. will not become redundant.

Lies at the bottom

Goldfish lie at the bottom of the aquarium for various reasons:

• Stress. The recently acquired goldfish is not used to the new aquarium and lies or hides among the shelters. Observe your pet for a couple of days. The situation will not change in case of illness. Make sure that there are no constant sources of stress in the aquarium such as overcrowding or pugnacious neighbors.
• Lack of free space. Golden carp should be kept in an aquarium with a volume of at least 40–50 liters, depending on the specific variety.
• Poisoning. Rare water changes and malfunctioning filters lead to contamination.
• Heat. Goldfish are comfortable at 18–22 degrees. If you don't have a thermometer, purchase one. Glass and electronic thermometers show results with less error.
• Alkalosis or acidosis are diseases caused by improper pH. Goldfish are kept at a pH of 6–8. If the parameters do not correspond, smoothly align them to acceptable values. Other signs of these diseases: protruding fins, convulsions, lack of coordination, restless behavior, and fading of color.
• Injuries caused by unfriendly neighbors.
• Ichthyophthiriasis (“semolina” or “white spot disease”). Other signs: the goldfish itches against objects in the aquarium, loses appetite, becomes lethargic, hides, breathes quickly, and white specks are visible on the body. Treat your goldfish with medications from a pet store based on malachite green according to the instructions. An alternative is biomycin (1.4 g per 100 l). Apply 1-2 times a week, increasing aeration.
• Mycobacteriosis.

About this article

Co-author(s): Veterinarian, Royal College of Veterinary Surgery Co-author(s): . Dr. Elliott, BVMS, MRCVS is a veterinarian with over 30 years of experience in veterinary surgery and the care of companion animals. She graduated from the University of Glasgow in 1987 with a degree in Veterinary Medicine and Surgery. He has been working at the same animal clinic in his hometown for over 20 years. This article has had 17,010 views.

Categories: Featured Article | Fish, marine animals and amphibians

English:Fix Swim Bladder Disease in Goldfish

Español:curar la enfermedad de inflamación de la vejiga en peces dorados

Português:Curar a Doença da Bexiga Natatória em Peixinhos Dourados

Italiano:Curare un'Affezione alla Vescica Natatoria nel Pesce Rosso

Deutsch:Eine Schwimmblasenkrankheit bei Goldfischen behandeln

Français:régler les problèmes de vessie natatoire chez le poisson rouge

Bahasa Indonesia:Mengobati Gangguan Gelembung Renang pada Ikan Mas Koki

العربية:معالجة مرض المثانة الهوائية في السمك الذهبي

Nederlands:Een zwemblaasinfectie bij een goudvis behandelen

中文:治疗金鱼的鱼鳔病

Tiếng Việt:Chữa bệnh bong bóng ở cá

Seal

Changes in the composition and parameters of the aquatic environment

Very often, ornamental fish sink to the bottom of an artificial reservoir when the acidity level increases and the concentration of salts and mineral components increases. Such sudden changes cause a state of osmotic shock in the fish.

Similar problems can arise when moving new fish to another aquarium or using fertilizers or organic mixtures that are used to feed plant crops. In such cases, it is necessary to purchase a special test and check the water parameters in the aquarium. After this, clean the artificial pond and replace the water in it. It may also be necessary to introduce compounds designed to remove salts and metals from the liquid.

Floats on its side

If your goldfish is swimming on its side or belly up, but is alive and breathing, this indicates a swim bladder problem. Review the diet and check the water, inspect the skin and fins. The goldfish may have an infectious disease.

Strange behavior of aquarium fish

Observing the behavior of fish, owners often notice strange behavior in their pets. We have to look for answers to many questions, for example, the following: why do guppies often swim on the surface of the aquarium, which is why other pets lie on the bottom or freeze in the corner? Experienced owners know how to understand if everything is okay with the fish. It’s more difficult for beginners, but in this article we will tell you in detail why pets float to the top and generally behave unusually.

Why don't fish dive deep?

Guppies stick to the upper layers of water, so they often gravitate there, and this is quite normal behavior. It's another matter if they hover there constantly. This happens most often for three reasons:

• waterlogging due to the absence or poor performance of filters and aerators;
• diseases - many protozoal, bacterial and helminthic diseases cause suffocation;
• lack of oxygen has a detrimental effect not only on fish, but also on vegetation, which, due to weak aeration, is unable to provide everyone with a vital element.

All of the above may be the reason why fish strive to the top. First you need to test the water. If everything is normal, try to identify the disease and treat it.

If pets stay near the surface and swallow air

The reason may lie in overpopulation of the aquarium and lack of oxygen, which is consumed by both fish and plants. In summer it is used more. Follow these steps:

• install a purge (if there is none, a filter);
• replace the existing water with colder water;
• temporarily do not feed the fish for 2-3 days;
• clean the filter.

If it doesn’t help and the fish are swallowing air for another reason, try to find it. Perhaps the fish were poisoned by food or detergents used to clean the decorations, or perhaps they got sick from excess food. Refrain from giving medications until you find out the cause.

Kinds

Species are distinguished by the habitat of deep-sea fish or pelagic zones. If you look at the photos of various representatives, you can see how beautiful and unique they are. It is impossible to meet such creatures in real life.

Mesopelagic

Fish are distinguished by well-developed muscles and a strong skeleton. They have photofluoride. The eyes are sensitive and large. Regarding the swim bladder, it is not present in everyone, but only in those who are characterized by frequent vertical migrations.

These include opisthoproctaceae, sabertooths, opahs, melamphaaceae, malacostas, etc.

Bottom and benthic

The benthic species has a second name - bathidemersal. They prefer underwater peaks, continental slopes, and continental foothills located near the abyssal plain zone. They are distinguished by their dense body and ability to burrow into the ground surface. They rarely hunt actively, patrolling in the depths. It is more convenient for them to attack a victim from an ambush, since having a keen sense of smell they will not miss the prey.

Prominent examples are flounder and stingrays.

Flounders spend all their time at the bottom. They can simply lie and wait for the right moment to catch food, or swim on their side in search of food. Fish have a flat body and no swim bladder. A distinctive feature of the community is the location of the eyes, which are either on the right or left side.

Benthopelagic

They are classified as benthic, since their main habitat is the space of the same name. They feed mainly on benthos or zooplakton.

These include numerous families of demersal deep-sea fish. The list can be replenished with long-tailed, erroneous and bititic ones.

Divided into:

• flabby;
• solid.

The characteristic features of the first option are reflected in the name. The fish have a loose, flabby body of small mass. They prefer to ambush their prey. Most of them have large eyes, the so-called otoliths.

Solids are active representatives. They are energetic swimmers searching for food on the bottom. They are rarely found near underwater peaks.

Large individuals can reach a length of up to 2 meters and weigh more than 20 kg.

Some deep-sea representatives of the cod-like species are classified as benthic, among which are the halosaurids, moraformes and spinospiniformes.

Deep sea benthic

This species does not welcome continental shelves, so it lives beyond it. When asked why deep-sea benthic species have so many varieties, the main reason is due to variations in the habitats chosen. They can be found in different pelagic zones, but most often on continental slopes, where there is plenty of food.

A striking example is the bassogigas, which has a wide variety of food in its stomach, ranging from regular food to organic sediments. This is a pleasant-looking creature capable of diving up to 8000 meters in depth. Bassogigas have a strong build and a pleasant appearance.

If you look at photos of representatives of the benthic species, you can see their diversity of sizes and shapes. A special feature is the absence of photophores, which is necessary for fish that live deep underwater. And not everything is in order with vision, as there are subspecies with atrophied organs. Despite this, fish are excellent at navigating the waters using their senses of touch and smell.

These include:

• hagfish;
• lumpfish;
• erroneous;
• eelpouts, etc.

The list can be continued with long-tailed, green-eyed, etc.
Peculiarities:

1. They have developed muscles and a dense body.
2. A huge number of varieties.
3. They are similar in structure to mesopelagic ones.
4. Usually do not have photofluoride.
5. Among them there are sighted and blind fish.
6. Often there are individuals with a developed swim bladder, while other subspecies do not have it.
7. They reach small sizes - up to one meter.
8. Typical representatives have an elongated body, like an eel.
9. They mainly feed on the remains of invertebrate animals, less often on carrion. However, the diet may vary depending on the location. In the stomach of the fish you can find both the remains of invertebrates and ordinary soil.

The damage is off the charts - find out amazing facts about fish that live at considerable depths.

Why do aquarium guppies swim on the surface?

Sometimes guppy lovers notice that their fish's behavior has changed and they constantly swim on the surface. What to do in this case, and what could this be connected with?

Before you take any action, you need to know that guppies are fish that live in the upper layers of water, so if they sometimes hover near the surface, then there is nothing wrong with such actions

But you should pay attention if the guppies are constantly near the surface. There may be several reasons: lack of oxygen, poor water quality and various fish diseases.

Lack of oxygen

This is the most common reason why guppies move towards the surface of the water. If there is not enough oxygen, then not only fish, but also plants will feel discomfort - they begin to wither and die. Why do guppies float on the surface even if the aeration is on? Perhaps its level is not sufficient to provide oxygen to all fish.

In addition, you need to remember that the higher the temperature, the stronger the aeration should be.

Poor water quality

Sometimes guppies behave this way if the water in the aquarium is of poor quality or has become waterlogged.

If there is no filter and aerator, then they need to be installed immediately and in the future it is important to constantly monitor their operation

As a preventive measure, you can add digital or anti-steam to the water (you should read the instructions for the drug about how to add them and in what quantities).

Guppy diseases

If the oxygen level is normal, the water is of high quality and not stagnant, filters and aerators are installed, and aquarium guppies still swim on the surface, then the reason for this behavior is a disease that is not so easy to determine. According to experts, the “symptom of suffocation” characterizes many protozoal, bacterial and helminth diseases.

If only some of the fish have surfaced, they must be urgently separated from the rest and then treated.

If all guppies behave this way, then it is necessary to treat all of them with antibiotics and aprotozoal drugs. Tsifran is added to the aquarium at the rate of ½ tablet per 100 liters, and Antipar - 1 ml per 40 liters. These procedures are carried out for about 2 weeks, then ½ of the volume of the aquarium is changed and the dosage of drugs is taken 2 times less. If the treatment is successful, then the drug must be gradually removed from the water, changing it periodically.

Thus, if you notice that your guppy fish have begun to constantly stay on the surface, first check the oxygen level and water condition, and only then begin to treat the individuals.

The main reason for strange behavior is overeating

There can be many reasons why a fish swims sideways. Often, it can be saved if the right actions are taken in time. The first reason is overfeeding. Fish are voracious, so it is important to time their meals and ensure that no food remains.

Otherwise, the water will be polluted prematurely and a favorable environment will arise for the development of putrefactive bacteria. In addition, the fish may develop serious digestive problems, including intestinal blockage and death. Angelfish react especially acutely to overfeeding.

If they begin to float upside down or lie on their sides on the bottom, but look completely healthy, then most likely this is the result of overeating. Place the fish and give it a fasting day for at least a day.

Observe the food storage conditions. Pour a small amount into a convenient container that can be refilled as needed, with a tight-fitting lid.

Violation of maintenance standards and damage to organs

The second reason is insufficient aeration. Oxygen accumulates closer to the surface, and therefore the fish sometimes swims on its side, trying to make up for the lack of oxygen in deep layers of water. In this case, the angelfish most often swims vertically, head up. Adjust the oxygen supply level or buy a more powerful aerator.

The third reason is that the swim bladder is damaged. The problem may be caused by:

• injuries;
• parasites;
• infectious diseases;
• indigestion;
• or even simple stress.

If the angelfish swims on its side, upside down, lies on the bottom and is unable to stay in one position, then most likely it is a damaged bladder. You need to start saving your pet as soon as possible, otherwise she may die. Place the fish and do not feed it for a couple of days. Raise the water temperature to 28 degrees. If symptoms persist for a long time, antibiotics are needed.

Diseases and injuries

Along with new aquarium inhabitants, algae and food, you can introduce fungus, parasite eggs and harmful bacteria. To prevent this, it is necessary to constantly update the water, use special disinfectant additives, and quarantine him before moving in a new inhabitant.

Treatment should be prescribed depending on the causative agent of the disease; it is better to consult a specialist. Pay attention to the appearance of the fish (does it have damage, white spots, changes in color) and how it behaves: hiding, starving, lying on the bottom.

Fish can be injured as a result of an attack from their neighbors in the aquarium, especially slow-moving fish such as angelfish.

The sharp edges of algae can also cause injury. Pay attention to the integrity of the scales, the condition of the tail and eyes, and how the fish interact with each other during the day.

What to do to prevent such situations

Before introducing several species of fish into an aquarium, study the characteristics of their behavior. Are they compatible with each other, will they divide the territory and attack each other. Don't forget to change the water and rinse the soil.

Use settled water to fill the aquarium and monitor the temperature. The fish swims on its side, vertically or upside down; if the water quality deteriorates, monitor the fluid parameters. Avoid overcrowding the aquarium.

The sick fish should be immediately placed in a separate container. This is necessary so that she cannot infect her neighbors. Observe her condition and behavior, and if necessary, consult a specialist. To protect other fish, change the water in the aquarium and disinfect it using special means.

Please like and comment if you have had to solve the problem described. If the article was useful, share it on social networks.

About other reasons for the movement of fish to the surface of the water

Hypoxia, that is, a lack of oxygen in the water, causes fish to need to replenish it. They try to capture oxygen from the air above the surface of the aquarium. In such cases, experienced aquarists advise rinsing the filter, cleaning the soil, removing dying leaves of plants, turning on the compressor or replacing some of the water.

If the inhabitants of the fish house swim near the surface of the water, swaying, then in most cases this is a symptom of the last stage of the disease. It's too late to treat them.

Infections to which aquarium inhabitants are exposed can be constantly present in the water. But healthy fish successfully cope with parasites, and the immune system helps them in this. When it is weak, the body cannot cope with infections. This is why waterfowl get sick. Most often, waterfowl suffer from ichthyophthyriasis, which manifests itself as small white spots on the body; are affected by fungi and become covered with specific white fluff; suffer from bacterial infections. The latter appear in fish as red spots on the belly and fins. If the owner does not detect these diseases in time and does not treat them, then soon the fish will swim at the surface of the water and die.

Sometimes poisoning causes aquarium inhabitants to move to the surface of the water. If poisons get into the water, which, by the way, can be a whole can of food thrown out of generosity by children, or medicine, then the inhabitants of the water kingdom will breathe heavily and literally hang at the surface of the water, greedily taking in air. This is how the fish are saved from poisoning.

If the patency of the fish's blood vessels is impaired due to the high concentration of oxygen in the water, then we are talking about a gas embolism. Unfortunately, this phenomenon is known to almost every aquarist.

The pathology got its name from the term emboli, which veterinarians use to refer to air bubbles moving in the bloodstream. These formations are formed when there is a mismatch between the gas pressure in the water and the normal pressure inside the body of the fish itself. If the owner of a home pond fails to quickly eliminate the resulting pressure dissonance, a gas embolism occurs.

Since an aquarium is an artificial reservoir, there are many reasons why excess oxygen may occur in the water. Typically, a gas embolism is provoked by excessive aeration, although a similar situation sometimes occurs even in a vessel teeming with plants. For this reason, you should be extremely careful when choosing an aquarium compressor and filter, since excess oxygen in the water is just as dangerous as its lack. The aeration system should correlate with both the volume of the aquarium and the number of its inhabitants.

The role of aquarium plants in enriching water with oxygen cannot be underestimated. Any aquarist from a school botany course knows that all plants in the world are capable of generating oxygen through the process of photosynthesis. That is why, in bright light, you can see small air bubbles rising vertically from the leaves of aquarium plants in a living string. In this way, the water is very actively enriched with the gas necessary for the life of fish. If there is a sufficient number of plants in the home pond and the aquarium itself is equipped with a good lighting system, then additional aeration of the water is not only unnecessary, but in certain conditions it is even harmful, since it can provoke a gas embolism.

It would be wrong to assume that the cause of emboli in the blood of fish is solely oxygen. In fact, pathology can also develop if there is an excessive concentration of any other gas in the water. That is why you can add water to the aquarium that has previously stood for several days. Otherwise, the likelihood of a gas embolism is very high. For the same reason, you should not introduce fish into a newly equipped aquarium, since tap water contains a huge amount of dissolved gases, which can gradually cover all objects located in the container in the form of bubbles. Long-term settling of water not only brings the concentration of gases to normal, but also allows biological equilibrium to occur in the aquarium more quickly.

To avoid tragedy, the aquarium owner must be well aware of both the symptoms of gas embolism and emergency measures for the inhabitants of the aquarium. The first and most striking sign of excessive concentration of gases in water are small bubbles forming on glass, plants and decorations. In this case, the owner of a home pond is required to take urgent measures, since these same bubbles can form on the body of fish. If the concentration of gases in the water is not urgently reduced, the bubbles migrate under the skin of the fish, and from there into the bloodstream.

Gas embolism is a deadly pathology for fish. The clinical picture of the disease is represented by symptoms such as convulsive movements, excessive timidity, unnatural leaning on one side, clouding of the eyes and raising of the scales. Without taking emergency measures, the pathology quickly progresses, which can be seen by the destruction of connective tissue in the fins and the slow movement of the gill covers. If the gas embolism has reached this stage, then it is no longer possible to save the fish.

Treatment of fish will largely be determined by the reasons that provoked the occurrence of gas embolism. If the pathology develops after adding tap water without prior settling, then the inhabitants of the home pond should be urgently placed in a quarantine container with favorable conditions. If a gas embolism resulted from the use of an excessively powerful aquarium compressor, then you should immediately stop artificial aeration and carry out a partial replacement of the aquarium water.

If the owner of the aquarium was unable to promptly eliminate the causes of the gas embolism and the symptoms of the pathology have already become noticeable in the fish (especially if the aquarium fish is lying on its side on the bottom), then treatment is necessary. According to veterinarians, the best option would be to place the affected fish in a quarantine tank with an artificially created oxygen deficiency. In such water, the inhabitants of the home pond will quickly recover.

Gas embolism, like any other pathology, is easier to prevent than to treat. Moreover, prevention in this case is very simple. It is enough to avoid adding tap water to an aquarium with fish without first settling it. In addition, only partial water changes should be performed.

When purchasing an aquarium aeration system, you should be careful. An overly powerful compressor combined with a large sprayer can create problems in a home pond, especially if there are a large number of aquarium plants. Experienced aquarists, in bright daylight, completely turn off artificial aeration of water and resume it only at night.

Stress as a reason for fish movement

Severe emotional shocks are not unique to all mammals. Pisces are also subject to stress. But it is much more difficult for the residents of the water house to get rid of it, because they do not have the opportunity to change the situation. A person can, under emotional overload, switch to his hobby, the dog also, through his behavior, tells the owner that he is uneasy in his soul, and the fish have no choice but to swim to the surface of the water and thus express concern. What can cause them stress?

First of all, drastic changes in the environment. Many owners forget or do not consider it necessary to change the water in the aquarium, some do not do it as often as they should. As a result, the inhabitants of the fish house are forced to swim in their feces. But most fish can get used to this. But a complete replacement of water after months of stagnation is a huge stress for them.

Some types of fish are very picky and demanding of water parameters. For example, cichlids require hard alkaline water to thrive; Red neons need soft, high acidity. Discus fish, unlike most tropical fish, require high temperatures. These fish simply begin to turn black in unsuitable living conditions. And goldfish love cool water.

If your waterfowl not only float at the surface of the water, but also greedily gasp for air, their gills acquire a gray (white) tint, then this is probably the result of exposure to an alkaline environment, ammonia intoxication. The water's pH may be too high. And if after checking it turns out that this is so, then it must be lowered to 7.

Incorrect selection of neighbors in an aquarium can also cause stress in its inhabitants. Some species of waterfowl can be real badasses. Their neighbors flee in such a situation. In this case, there is only one way out - the resettlement of non-peace-loving wards.

And stress is also experienced by those inhabitants of the fish house who, after the school has been divided into pairs for further reproduction, remain unclaimed. They huddle in the far corner of the aquarium or swim near the surface of the water.

Breed Features

Beginner aquarists should know that for some species of fish, lying on the bottom of an artificial reservoir is completely natural and normal behavior. For example, catfish or corydoras swim all the time in the bottom layers of a reservoir and generally prefer to spend most of the day resting on soft ground.

Neons, fragile and sensitive creatures prone to traumatic injuries, also give preference to the lower layers of the aquarium. For this breed, the bottom of the tank is the most comfortable and safe habitat.

Cichlids, members of the loach family, also spend a lot of time digging in the soil of the aquarium. For them, such behavior is considered a manifestation of the norm in their natural habitat; they also dig up soil and aquatic plants. In addition, by wallowing in stones and soil, these types of aquarium fish cleanse their bodies of mucus, which can provoke the development of dangerous inflammatory processes.

This is explained simply. For a pet, a new aquarium is perceived as another world, unknown and fraught with potential danger. This behavior is especially typical for goldfish, representatives of the labyrinthine, cichlid, carp-toothed, and goldfish families.

Why does the fish lie at the bottom of the aquarium and what to do?

There may always come a time when you see fish lying on the bottom of the aquarium when you approach it.

It's hard to say that this is a common occurrence. But it wouldn’t be possible to call it rare either.

I will consider the main reasons why fish end up lying at the bottom of the aquarium.

Relatively speaking, the reasons for sedimentation of fish are divided as follows:

• Water quality problem
• Water temperature problem
• Diseases and infections
• New aquarium
• Bottom fish

Why do fish in an aquarium lie on the bottom?

The main reason why fish sink to the bottom is poor water quality in the aquarium. Actually, calling such a phenomenon a problem or a cause is not entirely correct.

The bottom line is that the water parameters in the aquarium have changed dramatically, and the fish have reacted negatively to their sudden change.

A sharp jump in water acidity, water hardness or concentration of salts and minerals can cause osmotic shock, the extreme consequence of which is fish lying on the bottom of the aquarium.

Osmotic shock

Most often, osmotic shock overtakes new fish released into the aquarium without an acclimatization procedure. The onset of osmotic shock is also provoked by the aquarist by adding plant nutrition in violation of the dosage.

The first thing an aquarist does when he sees fish lying on the bottom is to check the basic parameters of the water with special tests for acidity, hardness and nitrites.

Based on the results of these tests, the aquarist decides to change the water or add special preparations from Tetra or Sulfur, which soften the water and eliminate excessive concentrations of nitrites, salts and minerals. Like Tetra AquaSafe.

Figuratively speaking, you must bring the water parameters in the aquarium to the norm recommended for this type of fish.

Water temperature

If the fish are lying on the bottom of the aquarium, but the aquarium water parameters are normal, then temperature shock may be the likely cause of this behavior. Temperature shock is a sudden change in the temperature of the aquarium water by 5 degrees Celsius or more.

Most often, temperature shock occurs when new fish are released from a transport tank into an aquarium without proper temperature acclimatization. Most likely, the fish will come to its senses after some time, but will be susceptible to diseases and infections due to weakened immunity. Try to avoid such a situation.

Diseases and infections

Many diseases of aquarium fish that affect internal organs in the terminal stage lead to the fish sinking to the bottom of the aquarium and subsequent death

It is extremely important to carefully examine the affected fish and its swimming relatives

Changes in color, bloating of the abdomen, unnatural curvature of the spine, loss of scales and the appearance of spots on the body of the fish indicate a bacterial or infectious infection of the fish.

Based on these signs, the aquarist will determine the infection and treat the fish accordingly, if possible. In any case, the affected fish is removed from the general aquarium to prevent an infectious outbreak.

Diagnosing aquarium diseases is a difficult task, even for experienced aquarists.

Launch of a new aquarium

Early introduction of fish into a freshly started aquarium is fraught with osmotic shock, which I described above. As you remember, a high concentration of salts and minerals causes the fish to sink to the bottom of the aquarium. The nitrite value reaches a high concentration due to the absence of a working nitrogen cycle, which is the norm for a new aquarium.

It is strictly not recommended to introduce fish into a newly opened aquarium. And the more fish you introduce, the more fatal the manifestation of possible osmotic shock will be. To correct the situation, you should change the water or add Tetra or Sulfur preparations, designed to quickly start the aquarium.

When observing fish at the bottom of the aquarium, you should immediately check the basic water parameters, water temperature and carefully examine all the fish.

Why do fish die in an aquarium, what should I do?

The motivation for writing this article was a conversation on the Fanfishka.ru form with a certain citizen who wrote in the section for help in identifying fish diseases -

“Please help, I have a telescope at the age of 6 months. He hasn't eaten anything for three days. Floats on the surface with difficulty, gasping for air. No external damage or swelling is observed. Help if you can, it’s a shame to lose the fish.”

Being a conscientious and sensitive person, I gave her a full plan of actions, measures, and recommended medications. And then, when I wrote everything, I thought - why treat so radically, maybe the reason for the fish’s poor health lies on the surface? :)

In this connection, I asked the citizen: “Tell me, what is the volume of your aquarium, who lives there besides the telescope, etc.”

When I received the answer, I was simply blown away! I’m puffing myself up with treatment and help, but it turns out that... read the answer: “Aquarium 80 liters. 1 gourami, 2 thorns, 2 golden ones, 2 telescopes (1 sick, the other healthy, but for some reason not growing), 2 danios, 2 small ancistrus, 2 speckled catfish, 1 angelfish, 2 ampularia...".

The reason why the telescope started to suck has been revealed!!!

Imagine if 16 people were put in an eight-meter barracks, how long would they last?... Whatever the conditions in this barracks, the pestilence would begin in a month.

Pet store sellers sell fish to novice aquarists, using their insatiable desire: “I want this fish, this one and that one and those catfish over there.” At the same time, neither one nor the other thinks about the future fate of the fish.

Sadly! But for some reason, this is the fate of “Shoving the Unshoveable” that befalls only aquarium inhabitants. Imagine, a mother and daughter come to a pet store and say: “Give us 15 cats, 3 Yorkshire terriers, 5 chinchillas and one shepherd, and don’t forget 2 more parrots.” Unfortunately, this is exactly what happens to aquarium fish.

Well, then, after some time, frantic writing begins and the search for answers to questions: why do fish die and die, why do fish lie at the bottom, float or float on the surface, do not grow and do not eat!

This problem is very clearly visible in Goldfish (pearls, comets, telescopes, veiltails, shubunkins, oranda, ranchu, koi carps, etc.). People either do not know or do not understand that this family of fish belongs to large species. In fact, they need to be kept in ponds (as was the case in Ancient China) or in large-volume aquariums.

But it was not there! For some reason, people have developed a Hollywood stereotype that goldfish look beautiful in a small round aquarium.

HOWEVER, THIS IS NOT THE CASE!!! The minimum volume of an aquarium for a pair of Goldfish should be from 100 liters. This is the minimum in which they can live normally, but it is not a fact that they will grow to their full height.

Therefore, recalling the above example with a citizen who has an 80-liter aquarium, in which: 4 scrofula, angelfish, gourami and others... it is not surprising to hear “My goldfish does not eat anything, lies at the bottom or swims with its belly up.” And the question that touches me is why they don’t grow))) How can they grow here, they wouldn’t die here!

In addition, in this example, the relative compatibility of the fish is observed. We must not forget that Skalaria is a peaceful, but still a South American cichlid and somehow it is not friends with goldfish. The same applies to gourami - they are peaceful, but there are cocky individuals.

I read somewhere that for 1 cm of the body of a fish without a tail there should be 2-3 liters of water in the aquarium. For those who are interested, here is a link to the selection - How many fish can you put in an aquarium of X liters (at the end of the article, select an aquarium of the required size).

Now I would like to talk about other reasons that lead to poor health of fish, without any apparent reason (signs of illness are not visually visible).

If the aquarium volume standards are not violated, the compatibility of the fish and their number is not violated, and the fish still float up or, on the contrary, lie on the bottom and swallow air, then the reason for this may be:

We live in the air, and fish in the water. The parameters of aquarium water directly affect the well-being of the fish.

In the process of life, aquarium fish and other inhabitants defecate, other organic matter dies, food remains decompose, which leads to excessive saturation of water with nitrogen compounds, which are destructive to all living things.

Thus, the cause of poor health or pestilence in fish may be:

- lack of aquarium maintenance (cleaning, cleaning, siphons, lack of a filter or changing aquarium water).

— overfeeding the fish (presence of uneaten food in the aquarium).

- untimely disposal of dead fish, etc. (some beginners watch snails eat dead fish, this is absolutely not allowed).

What to do in this case? It is necessary to eliminate sources of nitrogen emissions:

- urgently transplant the fish into another aquarium with clean water;

— enhance aeration and filtration;

— clean the aquarium and then replace it? aquarium water for fresh;

- pour aquarium carbon into the filter;

You should always remember that aquarium water needs to be changed weekly. However, this is not always good - old water is better than fresh, especially for young aquariums in which the biobalance has not yet been adjusted. So this must also be done wisely and as needed. If you see that the water in your “young aquarium” is not green, cloudy, etc. Replace 1/5-1/10 of the volume of aquarium water at first. However, you must always keep in mind that clear water is not an indicator of its purity. With this in mind, it is necessary to develop your own “tactics” for changing water based on the volume of the aquarium, its age and preferences of the fish, etc.

Emergency fish transplantation is a temporary measure if the fish is very profitable. As a rule, if the fish is not feeling well (lying on the bottom, swallowing air, swimming on its side, etc.), this action brings it to its senses and after 2-3 hours it is cheerful and cheerful.

It should be remembered that such a transplant should be done in water at approximately the same temperature as in the aquarium, the water should be settled (preferably), and do not forget to provide aeration. And yet, if there is no other aquarium, an emergency temporary transplant can be carried out in a basin or other vessel.

About coal. Aquarium charcoal is sold at any pet store. It is not very expensive, so I recommend purchasing it in reserve. Coal is an excellent additional measure in the fight against “poop and other evil spirits.” If you don’t have it on hand, you can temporarily take human activated carbon, wrap it in gauze or a bandage and put it in the filter.

There are also so-called ion exchange resins, for example, zeolite, they are also absorbents like coal, but they work, so to speak, on a more subtle level - removing nitrites and nitrates from the aquarium - decomposition products of ammonia, which in turn is formed from dead water. organic matter and waste products of aquatic organisms.

Water filtration. Everything is simple here. The aquarium filter must match the volume of aquarium water. Additional helpers: aquarium plants, as well as snails, shrimp and crustaceans.

In the end, we can recommend a drug for quickly cleaning an aquarium from sewage - TetraAqua Biocoryn.

Well, first of all, you should not release new fish straight into the aquarium. Everyone knows this. Let them acclimatize: For this reason, see the article All about Purchasing, Transplanting, and Transporting Fish!

Secondly, fish that lived in a pet store or grew up in another body of water are accustomed to certain water parameters (pH, hD, temperature) and if you transplant them into water with radically opposite parameters, this can lead to their death within a day or a week.

This is actually why there are so-called quarantine aquariums for proper adaptation. You kill two birds with one stone: you check whether new fish are contagious and adapt them to new conditions. The principle of quarantine is simple - it is a small aquarium (another body of water) into which new aquarium inhabitants are introduced and within a week they are checked for lice, and aquarium water is also gradually added from the aquarium in which they will live.

You can do without quarantine, but it’s a risk! As a rule, it carries through in 80% of cases, but 20% still remain. To level out this 20%, I recommend transplanting fish with the drug from Tetra AquaSafe ( Tetra AquaSafe ), read here MEDICINES AND CONDITIONERS. This drug “ennobles” the aquarium water and reduces the stress of fish during transplantation.

Obvious signs of asphyxia (suffocation) in fish are: frequent opening of the mouth, heavy breathing, wide opening of the mouth - as if yawning, the fish swims near the surface and grabs oxygen.

You should know that fish breathe oxygen dissolved in aquarium water, which they pass with water through their gills, and if there is not enough of it, the fish will simply suffocate.

Increased aeration and bringing it back to normal will correct the situation!

Opinions on this matter vary. When communicating and discussing this topic, some comrades say: “Yes, all this is nonsense, I pour unsettled tap water into the aquarium and everything is fine - the fish don’t die.” However, it is worth noting that tap water in many regions of the CIS is simply terrible! There is so much bleach and other impurities in it that it is scary to use it yourself. Somewhere, of course, the water is better and it “carries through” - the fish don’t die. In the Czech Republic, for example, tap water is generally spring water from Karlovy Vary springs, but alas, where is the Czech Republic, and where are we?!

Therefore, it is very important to use only settled water for the aquarium. In addition to the fact that chlorine will evaporate from the water and heavy impurities will settle, excess oxygen will also be released, which is no less destructive for fish.

What to do if you poured tap water and it made the fish sick? Ideally, transplant into settled water. However, if you initially poured tap water, then you probably do not have settled water. The only way out is to add aquarium chemicals that stabilize the aquarium water. For example, the aforementioned Tetra AquaSafe or TetraAqua CrystalWater.

The generally accepted temperature measure for aquarium water for many fish is 25 degrees Celsius. But water that is too cold or too warm leads to the same symptoms: fish floating up, lying on the bottom, etc.

With cold water everything is clear - you need to buy a thermostat and bring the reduced temperature to the desired one. But with too warm water everything is much more complicated. Usually aquarists encounter this problem in the summer, when the water in the aquarium boils and exceeds 30 degrees, causing the fish to become lethargic and “faint.”

— cool aquarium water handicraft: using frozen 2 liters. bottles from the refrigerator. But this is not very convenient, because... Frozen water quickly gives off cold and you need to constantly change bottles. In addition, jumps and changes in temperature - here and there - are no less harmful than simply increased water temperature.

— special aquarium cooling units are sold, but alas, they are expensive.

— buy an air conditioner and install it in a room with an aquarium; in addition to the stuffiness of the room, the air conditioner will also reduce the heat of the aquarium. The last option is, in my opinion, the most acceptable.

Sometimes the cause of fish bloating and swimming with their belly or side up is overfeeding. Again, this reason largely applies to Goldfish, because... they suffer from gluttony, overeating and begging. Don't be fooled by them. Feed them exactly as much as they should. Otherwise, your gluttons will develop inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract or, more simply put, they will suffer from constipation!

Another reason why a fish can lay down for no apparent reason is stress. Well, she doesn’t like her neighbors and that’s that. Or it often happens that they take juvenile fish, and from it all boys and one female grow up, and as a result, “the boys start a showdown” - who is in charge. The weak begin to be persecuted and tyrannized, as a result of which they huddle in a corner, go to the bottom, and, well, die. There is only one way out: resettle everyone, give them to friends or go back to the pet store.

What else can affect the well-being of fish:

- excess lighting or stress from it;

— decorating the aquarium with chemically hazardous decorations (metal, rubber, plastic);

- drug overdose;

We also recommend that you read the brochure “Navigator-3: an interview with an ichthyopathologist.” Below is a link to the pdf version that you can download, as well as its test version.

To read and/or download “Navigator”

click on the picture below

If you do not have a PDF reader installed, we recommend using AdobeReader by downloading it from the official website.

A useful video about treating fish that will help solve the question of what to do with a dying fish?

The telescope has been floating belly up for a couple of months now.

Tadoma

this happens from overfeeding your fish. Firstly, to relieve the symptoms, increase the water temperature to 28 degrees, increase the air blowing into the aquarium, add metronidazole and biseptol tablets in the pharmacy for adults, sold from 1 tablet per 20 liters of water, both this will help relieve inflammation of the digestive tract, translate for a hungry diet food you say is dry and of high quality, but what kind of food do you have special for gold ones? It’s just that if the food is for all types of aquarium fish, then it contains a lot of protein component, which causes inflammation of the intestines. You need to buy special vegetable food for goldfish because the goldfish’s diet consists of 80% vegetable food. Give it also frozen spinach, pre-frozen in cold water, it’s better if it it will be finely chopped, it will be sold in any supermarket; you don’t need to feed the fish until the syndromes pass, and then feed it once a day so that it eats everything in 2-3 minutes and not a drop of food anymore; alternate dry food and spinach; this will help restore intestinal static and improve general well-being of fish

Zmeya

Most likely he's screwed. Regular overfeeding... the whole family of goldfish suffers from this... Goldfish have a very sensitive gastrointestinal tract and an absolutely dimensionless appetite. Therefore, it is not possible to determine when the fish is full. Feed at a minimum... I worked in a company - there was an aquarium with gold ones - I called specialists - there was such a problem all the time - all aquarists unanimously identified this very problem. What about treatment - there is nothing. Either it gets better or it doesn’t—there’s no third option. But, in most cases, such fish die... I finally gave up and when they all died (the employees were smart - they fed me - but the advertisements did not help), I got teraps - a very versatile and absolutely unpretentious fish. Then they added an angelfish - and in general everything was great. The fish are already three years old and have no problems... By the way, if I wanted to die, no big deal - the fish die very long and painfully from digestive problems. In my office, one fish swam like that for a month and a half, until... well, it wasn’t fun... I sincerely sympathize. When the fish died, she first roared for each fish... it was very sad...

Compatibility chart for 44 aquarium fish

The inhabitants of the aquarium come from different environments. Improper proximity leads to death, deterioration of health and pale color of aquarium fish. Check out the table and study the compatibility of fish in the same aquarium.

Compatibility table for aquarium fish in one aquarium

Find out the compatibility of the aquarium fish you are interested in at the intersection of the names in the table. With full compatibility between cohabitants, clashes are excluded. Limited compatibility indicates the need of neighbors for a voluminous aquarium with shelters. Residents with conditional compatibility require supervision. Do not place completely incompatible fish in the same container.

Dangerous for plants and small fish. Keeping in a school or solitary.

Lives alone. Sometimes Ancistrus competes with bottom dwellers for territory.

Aggressive during spawning. It settles alone or in a group of a male and 2–3 females.

Astronotus

Calm view. Compatible with fish of comparable sizes. Do not place with small fish, such as guppies and neons. Astronotuses perceive them exclusively as food. Plants are destroyed. Content alone or in a group.

A gregarious and active species. Fins are bitten off.

Bocia

Compatible in an aquarium with peaceful fish of comparable sizes. They bite the fins. They live in a flock of 5–6 individuals.

Swim Bladder Diseases

If a goldfish swims upside down, on its side, or stays close to the bottom, poor coordination of movement is caused by pathologies and diseases of the swim bladder, which cause a malfunction in its functioning. Loss of buoyancy control may be due to injury, birth defects, gas accumulation in the intestines, or certain diseases (dropsy of Malawi, neoplasms).

• the fish swims like a “float”, often floating to the upper layers of water in the aquarium;
• impaired coordination of movements;
• enlarged abdomen;
• rachiocampsis.

In sick fish, when swimming, the caudal fin rises above the level of the head. The fish becomes inactive. Lies on the bottom, floats on its side or tummy up. There may be a decrease or complete absence of appetite.

When the temperature of the aquatic environment decreases, the load on the swim bladder increases due to slower digestion and metabolism in the fish body. Often, compression of the bladder occurs due to an increase in other internal organs. Cysts in the kidneys, fat deposits in the liver, and the inability of females to spawn are common causes of pressure on the swim bladder.

Parasites, viral and bacterial infections can provoke inflammation of the swim bladder, which also leads to disruption of its functioning.

Causes

After purchasing a goldfish, many aquarists are faced with the fact that it always lies at the bottom of the aquarium and practically does not swim. As already noted, this behavior may be associated with the adaptation of the new pet, which takes from several days to several weeks. Do not forget that the goldfish experienced stress and perhaps even shock.

Observe the goldfish's behavior carefully. If she doesn’t swim up for food and lies on her side, don’t panic. After passing through the natural stage of acclimatization, the behavior of the goldfish will normalize and the pet will delight you with its grace and beauty.

Other reasons that can provoke this behavior in fish include:

• improper living conditions (temperature, lighting);
• inappropriate aquarium sizes;
• unsatisfactory water parameters;
• “young” aquarium;
• viral, bacterial, parasitic diseases;
• pathologies, gastrointestinal diseases
• overfeeding, obesity;
• injuries.

If your goldfish is breathing heavily, becomes lethargic, inactive, swims slowly, or rolls over on its side, this condition may be caused by unfavorable living conditions. Incorrect temperature conditions, too warm or, conversely, cold water lead to disruption of metabolic processes and can cause systemic failures in the fish’s body. When the water is overheated, the amount of oxygen decreases, which also has a detrimental effect on the condition of aquarium fish.

Violation of the temperature regime is possible after a water change or due to a breakdown of the heater. Therefore, in order to create the most comfortable conditions for the inhabitants of the aquarium, systematically monitor the readings of the water thermometer.

Goldfish at the bottom of the aquarium

Advice! If your goldfish is constantly lying on the bottom, most likely the water parameters are not suitable for it, so we recommend using special tests to check the water for the content of ammonia compounds. It is also worth inspecting filters and filter systems for clogging.

Another reason why goldfish stay close to the bottom is because of pebbles and gravel in their stomachs. This type of fish loves to dig in stones and sand in search of benthos and worms, so the clumsy fish often swallow pebbles along with food. This leads to impaired coordination of movements. It becomes difficult for fish to swim and maintain balance. It all depends on the size of the stone that got into the pet’s stomach.

If goldfish are lying on the bottom, one of the possible reasons for this behavior may be insufficient volume of the aquarium. When planning to keep goldfish, you need to take into account that one individual requires 50 liters of water. If you keep fish in cramped conditions, this leads to rapid pollution of the aquatic environment, increasing the concentration of nitrates and nitrites, and as you know, these compounds are not tolerated by most species of aquarium inhabitants, including goldfish.

If the fish is lethargic and lives at the bottom of the aquarium, measure the temperature and determine the pH of the water

If a golden fish lies on the bottom, breathes heavily, or has become lethargic, a fairly common reason for this condition is a young aquarium in which the necessary eco-balance of the aquatic system is temporarily lacking. To avoid one of the most common mistakes of novice aquarists, you need not only to prepare the water, purchase and start up the equipment, but also wait some time until a colony of bacteria grows in the biofilter, which will process nitrates and nitrites, and only then introduce aquarium fish.

Red spots

Causes of red spots:

1. Rubella is a collective name for spring viremia of carp, aeromonosis, pseudomonosis and vibriosis - diseases with similar manifestations. Accompanied by hemorrhages, especially in the head area. Other signs: the appearance of ulcers, bulging eyes, swelling of the abdomen. Carry out treatment in a separate container. You will need leukocyte human interferon (1 ampoule per 35 l) in combination with chloramphenicol (2.5 g per 100 l). Apply every other day until the condition improves. Replace a third of the water at least 1-2 times a week. Chloramphenicol (250 mg per 25 g of feed) or furazolidone (0.5 g per 25 g of feed) also helps. Feed the mixture for 6 days. Provide continuous aeration during treatment.
2. Skin and gill flukes. Animals behave restlessly, try to scratch themselves on objects, fins are often pressed, red spots appear on the body, and the skin becomes covered with mucus. Treat with special means against parasites or using baths with potassium permanganate.
3. Ammonia poisoning.

Floats belly up

The fish is alive and breathing rapidly, and the abdomen increases in size. If a goldfish swims belly up, the animal is prone to obesity and is vulnerable to infections that lead to swim bladder problems. Reasons why fish swim on their back:

• Monotonous food.
• Binge eating. Sprinkle food 1-2 times a day in pinches, which your pets can eat in a couple of minutes. Remove any leftover food immediately. If the fish systematically overeats, put it on a hunger strike for 3 days, after which you feed it green peas without skin.
• Excess protein feed. Goldfish are herbivores. The carp food system does not break down animal proteins. Feed your pets a balanced goldfish food, and occasionally serve scalded lettuce, peas, broccoli or cucumbers. Live and frozen foods make up 20–30% of the diet, plant foods – 70–80%.
• Dropsy is a common disease in golden carp. It is characterized by swelling, due to which the pet turns over with its stomach up. Check the water parameters and the amount of nitrites, change the liquid if necessary and change the parameters. Transplant the sick individual into a separate aquarium. Mix chloramphenicol with food (250 mg per 25 g of food) or dissolve the antibiotic in water (10 mg per 1 liter).
• Diseases. Place your sick pet. Check the concentration of nitrites and ammonia, examine the animal. Determine why your goldfish swims unnaturally. Swimming with your belly up is one of the signs of mycobacteriosis (tuberculosis). Other signs: swelling of the abdomen, floating near the surface, bulging eyes, curvature of the spine, fading of color, desire to hide. Symptoms appear in different combinations. The disease is rarely treatable. Change the water daily for 2 weeks, add kanamycin (30 mg per 1 liter).

Main causes with dangerous consequences

If the above reasons did not help answer the question of why the fish in the aquarium lie on the bottom, then most likely the pets are trying to signal violations in their maintenance. Failure to comply with the temperature regime, moving into a newly created aquarium - all this negatively affects the well-being of the phenotypes, and by lying on the bottom of the reservoir, the fish make it clear that the conditions of detention have been violated. The most common reasons are:

• osmotic shock;
• insufficient volume or incorrect shape of the tank;
• temperature violation;
• incorrect composition of water;
• infectious diseases.

Osmotic shock occurs in fish when moving into a new, newly launched aquarium. In such a tank, the biological balance has not yet normalized, so the pets experience stress and lie down on the bottom of the aquarium.

When buying an aquarium, owners often give preference to newfangled designer models, without thinking about how the pet will feel. Such inattention can lead to deterioration in the health of the fish, because maintaining each phenotype requires a certain size of the aquarium. If the fish lies at the bottom of the reservoir, then it is quite possible that the volume of the reservoir is too small.

The shape of the reservoir is no less important. Aquariums in the shape of glasses or balls have curved walls, which causes them to refract light incorrectly, which negatively affects the health of pets.

Temperature disturbances also affect the behavior of phenotypes. With minor deviations, the fish expresses dissatisfaction, demonstrating atypical behavior, and with serious violations, the pets die.

Aquarium fish sink to the ground in the tank when there are sharp changes in acidity and hardness levels, when the water quality no longer meets the requirements of the species. The cause may also be poor-quality fertilizers, mixtures or solutions.

Infectious diseases caused by fungi or single-celled organisms disrupt the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract and provoke inflammatory processes. There are also cases when the phenotype not only lies on the bottom, but also tries to actively rub against stones and soil, as if the fish’s body is itching. This is also a symptom of diseases such as ichthyophthyriosis. As a result, the pet feels unwell and may even die. To prevent death, treatment begins immediately as soon as the disease is detected.

Sometimes fish lie on the bottom after a battle or skirmish with another individual. As a rule, in this case it is easy to notice wounds on the body or the battle itself. If your pet is seriously injured, you should seek help from specialists.

Aquarium fish are lively and interesting pets, and they are not alien to poor health, rest, sleep and other needs. If you notice that your pet is lying on the bottom, you should not worry, but you should not ignore this behavior. After all, by carefully analyzing the external signs and causes, you can save your pet from death.

Information

The requested topic does not exist.

• All about eriocaulons Just about the difficult things with Yu.V. —> The Dragon and His Friends For aquarium fish lovers Nature Aquarium The Aquatic Plant Society —> Plant Finder

Aquarists forum:
• Delete cookies
• Contact the administration

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited

Every aquarist tries to create ideal conditions in the aquarium for his charges. However, many breeders are faced with a problem when all the negative factors seem to have been taken into account, but some fish remain on the bottom. They become irritable, with shortness of breath. When trying to swim up to the middle of the aquarium, the fish experience difficulties, give up and begin to sink with their tail up.

Before moving on to solving this problem, it is important to study the anatomy of fish. The body of bony fish is a very complex and multifunctional system. The fish maintains its stable position in the water and movement through the water with the help of a special organ - the swim bladder. It is an internal outgrowth from the esophagus and is responsible for stabilization, breathing and even hearing.

The hydrostatic function consists in the ability of a bubble to compress when immersed in depth, and, on the contrary, to expand when ascending.

So, if in your aquarium you notice fish that look quite normal in appearance, but drown or lie on the bottom, then we can most likely say that the reason lies in the disorder of this very swim bladder.

Symptoms of problems:

1. Actually, a fish drowning with its tail up
2. The fish drowns, but struggles to float up
3. The fish's belly swells
4. Swims belly up
5. Lies at the bottom
6. "Stands" on the head