Vallisneria nana: maintenance and care, reproduction and possible diseases, why it grows poorly in an aquarium

Live plants are a beautiful, decorative addition to any aquarium and play a big role in the life of its inhabitants.

Beginners in aquarium keeping, who do not yet know which plants are best to purchase for an aquarium, often plant Vallisneria nana first, since it is one of the most unpretentious. The advantage of this variety is that it can live in small aquariums up to 50 liters.

Vallisneria nana aquarium plant photo Vallisneria nana

Vallisneria nana is an aquarium bush plant that recently appeared in the aquarium hobby. It is also called Vallisneria dwarf. This plant comes from Northern Australia and in its natural habitat grows up to 15 cm, which is how it got its name.

The leaves of Vallisneria dwarf look like light green ribbons, much narrower than those of other representatives of Vallisneria. In aquariums it can grow up to 70 cm in height, but its growth largely depends on the conditions of its detention. .

In addition, Vallisneria gets along well with many representatives of the flora and fauna of the aquarium. When choosing neighbors, combine with cryptocoryne, anubias, other algae or shady plants. Fish do not eat grass as food because it is harsh.

Table of basic maintenance and care parameters:

Mussel - sea mollusk

In fact, mussels are an inhabitant of salty seas and oceans, which, along with water purification, is also edible, which makes it a valuable asset of the domestic fauna. In the post-Soviet space, it is found in all bodies of water that are named seas on the map, as well as in some large salt lakes. Mussel farms are spread all over the world, and every year the planet receives many millions of tons of tender meat grown in artificial conditions of mollusks. It is simply necessary for owners of marine aquariums to keep mussels, because one mollusk passes through itself several tons of water per day, purifying the water from plankton and far from harmless brown algae.

Vallisneria nana maintenance and care in the aquarium

Unlike other varieties of Vallisneria dwarf, it requires more intense lighting, which should be from 0.5 W per liter of water and above. When rooting, do not use coarse soil or empty gravel, as the plant may not take root.

Over time, Vallisneria nana develops a strong root system that periodically needs nutrition.

The plant does not require frequent feeding. If the substrate is of high quality and there is silt, this is quite enough for this plant. But if necessary, clay balls of red clay are placed under the roots as a budget fertilizer. The size of the granules should be from 3-6 mm and the layer thickness should be at least 3 cm.

Aquarists also use fertilizers in the form of large tablets, which are now widely sold in pet stores. To improve growth, you can “feed” the plant with liquid fertilizer containing iron (0.01-0.5 mg/liter). Supplying CO2 from 3-5 mg/l will also have a beneficial effect on the growth of Vallisneria nana.

The temperature in the aquarium should be from +24-28° C. Acidity from 6-7 pH. Hardness up to 6-8° dH.

Vallisneria nana is best planted at the back wall or at the side, but the main thing is not in the foreground, because as the plant grows and its ribbon-like leaves rise, the entire view of what is happening in the aquarium will be blocked. The light green, ribbon-like leaves make the plant a great contrast against the background. As Vallisneria nana grows, it forms “blackout curtains” that can cover the entire back of the tank.

When the plant has grown greatly and is shading the aquarium, you should pluck off the long leaves from the root of Vallisneria nana, and thin out very dense thickets by removing them from old bushes. You should not trim long leaves, as they will begin to wither, turn yellow and rot.

Vallisneria nana reproduction

Under comfortable conditions, Vallisneria nana grows quite quickly and produces many runners. From an adult plant, shoots grow quickly, thanks to which a compact, beautiful bush of Vallisneria nana will soon appear in the aquarium. Usually in aquariums, Vallisneria dwarf is represented by a plant of one sex.

Conditions of detention

This stunning fish attracts the attention of all levels of aquarists, but not everyone can provide the right conditions for it. The maintenance of turquoise acara is quite complex. These are large and extremely aggressive fish that require a lot of space for themselves and will only accept equally large and aggressive tankmates. When paired, they “terrorize” (hence their name) other inhabitants of the aquarium. Additionally, the Green Terror is extremely sensitive to changes in water conditions and requires a very strict maintenance schedule .

Due to their keeping and character, turquoise cichlids are recommended only to aquarists with extensive experience keeping large and aggressive cichlids.

Technical parameters of the aquarium

Like all large South American cichlids, Green Terror requires a lot of space: 130 -150 liters for one individual, and 285 for a pair. A larger aquarium will be needed if you keep them with other large fish. Soft, slightly acidic water suits them best. Low to medium water circulation. Effective biological filtration is needed. They feel comfortable in an aquarium with normal lighting and plenty of rocks, caves and hiding places. Use driftwood to help lower pH levels if the water is very hard. Be sure to leave an open area in the center for swimming.

Why does Vallisneria nana grow poorly in an aquarium?

Like any plant, Vallisneria nana grows poorly in conditions that are not comfortable for it. First of all, this is facilitated by unsuitable soil, poor lighting and low temperature, although the latter is unlikely in modern human conditions.

Another cause of problems with Vallisneria can be deep planting. The roots of this plant should remain exposed. But if the leaves are very pale, then you should cover the roots a little.

Also, if the growth of Vallisneria is poor, you need to increase the concentration of nitrates in the water. Improper use and dosage of liquid CO2 can also cause problems with the plant.

Some inhabitants of the aquarium can also harm Vallisneria nana - for example, pterygoplichthus, clown loach, which like to tear up the substrate and can disrupt the root system.

Behavior in society

Relations with neighbors are complex: they can fight with big fish, but they will simply eat small ones.

Compatibility with other turquoise cichlid fish is a serious matter. It gets along only with species of similar character and size. The most important element in reducing aggressiveness of all large South American cichlids is space in the water tank. The Green Terror is a moderately aggressive cichlid that can be kept with housemates. Depending on their personality and containment conditions, they can become relatively peaceful. If there is not enough personal space, they become aggressive. If there is enough space in the aquarium, then they no longer need to chase away other fish. It is important that they have enough room to grow.

Andinoacara rivulatus is generally not friendly towards the same species. The female shows more aggression than the males . They should be kept alone, if not separated. When the female spawns, she becomes very nervous and requires a lot of space.

The turquoise cichlid is not friendly with African species because Africans are too small and will be eaten sooner or later. Green Terror can coexist with Pacus, Plecostomus, Oscar, Silver Dollar, Gar, Black-striped Cichlid, catfish, angelfish and other fish of similar size.

Vallisneria nana possible diseases

If not maintained properly, Vallisneria nana may die. The first symptoms of the disease appear on the leaves of the plant. Lack of iron causes leaves to turn yellow and die. For treatment, use 0.1 mg/l of iron sulfate once a week.

If there is an excess of iron, the veins remain green, so manganese can be added in small quantities.

With a lack of calcium, the tips of the leaves dry out and turn brown. To avoid this, you need to place several shells on the bottom of the aquarium.

With a small amount of nitrogen, the leaves change color, and in the absence of phosphorus, a red tint appears and the leaves curl.

To increase nitrogen, the temperature should be lowered a couple of degrees, and in the absence of phosphorus, a phosphorus-containing fertilizer is necessary.

With a lack of boron, the tips of the leaves turn black, and with a lack of copper, they turn pale and fall off. If there is a deficiency of these elements, add 0.2 mg/l of boric acid once a week and 0.2 mg/l of copper sulfate once a week, respectively; when the plant is restored, the supply is stopped, because there is a risk of negative consequences. With potassium deficiency, the leaf blade becomes covered with yellow spots.

For treatment, nitrophoska is added at a dose of 2 g/100 l once a week. Thus, even an unpretentious plant can die if there is a shortage or overdose of some elements necessary for its life.

Aquarium plant Vallisneria Nana, video:

Description

This deep-sea fish has pointed anal and dorsal fins. It is of impressive size, the male can reach a length of 31 cm in the wild, and females 18 - 23 cm. If the individual lives in captivity, their size is smaller, 16-21 cm . They have a lifespan of 7-10 years, although there are reports that they can live for more than 10 years if they are well cared for.

The growth on the head of turquoise cancers can reach very large sizes.

This is a very colorful aquarium fish with a wide body flattened on the sides. The stigma and gill covers have mother-of-pearl and turquoise stripes. Males are greenish-blue metallic in color with an irregularly shaped dark spot in the center of the body. Blue anal fin and red stripe along the edge of the caudal fin. Mature males have rounded fatty growths on their heads. Females are darker, have a green anal fin, no red stripe along the edge of the caudal fin, and are slightly smaller in size than males. Cichlids have one nostril on each side.

Reproduction

Toothless reproduce by glochidia - parasitic larvae. Embryos develop in the external hemigills of the female (in nature, from autumn to winter), which, having reached the glochidia stage, are released into the water through siphons in the spring.

To the naked eye, the larvae look like brownish mucus. The larva has a bivalve shell, and the valves have a kind of denticles. It floats up from the bottom and with the help of these denticles, as well as an adhesive so-called byssal thread, attaches itself to fish swimming past. Glochidia burrows into the skin and becomes parasitic for some time. This causes a tumor to form in the fish. After the “baby” grows up, it leaves the “nursing” fish and sinks to the bottom, where it already leads an independent existence.

Application in cosmetology

The beneficial properties and contraindications of alder fruits are used in home beauty recipes. Cone-based products cleanse the skin, tighten pores and increase the elasticity of the epidermis. With their help you can get rid of the first wrinkles and even out your complexion.

For frequent pimples and skin irritations, it is recommended to prepare a lotion for washing:

• 10 g of plant materials are crushed;
• pour 300 ml of boiling water;
• leave for two hours covered.

The finished product is filtered and used for washing every day in the morning and evening. Procedures must be carried out until the skin condition improves.

Alder cones are beneficial for weakened hair, as they strengthen the roots and nourish them with valuable substances. To care for curls, prepare a simple rinse:

• 45 g of infructescences are poured into a thermos;
• pour 500 ml of boiling water;
• stand for three hours;
• strain the product.

It is necessary to rinse your hair with this infusion every time after washing. In addition, for ten days, the product is rubbed into the root area every evening and left overnight.

A decoction of alder fruit helps normalize oiliness at the hair roots

What are the benefits and benefits of alder cones?

Products based on alder cones have pronounced hemostatic and anti-inflammatory properties. When used correctly they:

• help with stomach and intestinal disorders, stop fermentation processes;
• relieve bleeding gums;
• are beneficial for stomatitis and gingivitis;
• soothe irritation of the mucous membranes due to gastritis and colitis;
• relieve inflammation and pain from gout and rheumatism;
• improve the condition of malaria;
• help fight bacterial processes in case of poisoning and intestinal infections;
• promote rapid recovery from colds;
• relieve inflammation in sore throat and laryngitis;
• restore intestinal microflora.

Alder cones are very popular as a remedy for diarrhea. Decoctions based on them help to quickly cope with diarrhea and eliminate its consequences for the body.

Experiments with acid, soda and generator design

Lately the plants in my aquarium haven't been growing well. Vallisneria barely survives. Cryptocoryne and similar plants reproduce so slowly that all the leaves have time to grow a black beard.

Once I already had an aquarium with lush green plants without black beard or thread.

• The aquarium stood on the windowsill.
• The four of us lived in one room in a communal apartment.

For these two reasons, there was a lot of light and carbon dioxide.

Lighting

I recently replaced the fluorescent lamps with LED lamps 2 x 30 W in a 200 liter aquarium and 2 x 20 W in a 100 liter aquarium. Now, when illuminated, oxygen bubbles rise from the plants. New leaves began to appear more often.

It's time to add CO2

I'm not going to create a "Dutch" aquarium or a "herbalist". I am satisfied with the more or less natural biological balance in the aquarium. Suppressing algae and unruly plants that require weeding is not a balance, but a special hobby. I'm interested in using a new type of lamp, and a homemade CO 2 generator, to see what happens. This is not an aquarium interest, but an engineering interest. Just curiosity.

CO2 bottle supply seems complicated. This is for professionals with beautiful large underwater gardens. I'm still a long way from that. It’s easier for beginners to start with a brew generator

. I once tried making CO2 from sugar and yeast.

The experiment was stopped because it was inconvenient to switch the tap every morning and evening so that carbon dioxide was supplied only when there was light. I also didn't like the smell of yeast.

The sugar and yeast generator is a one-component one, and therefore the design is simple. Carbon dioxide is released rapidly at first, then more and more slowly. The operating time of one gas station is approximately a week.

Since then, solenoid valves have appeared to automate gas supply. A two-component CO 2 generator without yeast was invented using citric acid and soda.

Homemade people make carbon dioxide generators not only for aquariums. CO 2 on the windowsill improves the growth of indoor flowers. CO 2 is used in advanced mosquito traps.

Chemistry

In the presence of water, citric acid and baking soda react to produce sodium citrate, water, and carbon dioxide.

Reaction equation: C 6 H 8 O 7 + 3NaHCO 3 (acid + soda in water) ► Na 3 C 6 H 5 O 7 + 3H 2 O + 3CO 2 (salt water gas) without water the reaction does not occur

1 mole (192 grams) of citric acid produces 3 moles of carbon dioxide. The resulting mass of CO 2 is 3 × 44 = 132 grams, volume - 66 liters.

All components involved in the chemical reaction (soda, citric acid, sodium citrate, water and carbon dioxide) are quite safe and can be used for cooking.

Pressure generator “soda + citric acid”

Citric acid generators come with check valves (more stable)

and without check valves (more reliable)

Both types operate at a fairly high pressure of 1.5-2 atm and use a fine adjustment valve for CO 2 supply, which also serves as a pressure reducer. Sometimes it is necessary to use chokes, for example in the form of a hollow needle from a syringe, to reduce the supply of acid and the rate of release of carbon dioxide.

Thanks to the two-component system, the CO 2 production process is more stable, since one of the components (citric acid) is supplied in small portions as needed. When the gas pressure in the container with soda decreases, a small amount of acid solution is pumped into the soda. As soon as CO 2 production is restored and the pressure rises, it also rises in the acid container. Thus, a constant (quite high) pressure is maintained in the container with the acid until it runs out. The signal for supplying a new portion of acid is a decrease in CO 2 pressure.

Using a pressurized CO 2 generator is similar to using CO 2 from a cylinder. After the high pressure source, a reducer is needed to obtain a small operating pressure of the order of 0.05 atm = 50 centimeters of water column. 50 cm is the depth of the aquarium. This outlet pressure has a free-flow

generator by leaps and bounds. In fact, the pressure at the outlet of a gravity generator is set by the depth of immersion of the outlet tube into the aquarium. At a depth of 40 cm, we obtain a pressure of 40 cm of water column. Such a generator does not need taps, chokes and gearboxes.

Gravity Generator

A simple two-component CO 2 generator can be made without pressure and without a fine adjustment valve. We feed the acid into the soda at the right pace. And we get gas in the required quantity.

There are known (but not widespread) designs of carbon dioxide generators in which the acid is dosed into the soda by a pump, or supplied into the soda by gravity from an unsealed container installed above a container with soda at a height approximately equal to the depth of the aquarium.

There is a simpler and more compact scheme. To supply acid, you can use a hole or a well-wetted rope - a wick. I saw how a glass of tea flowed onto the table using such a rope in one day. To adjust the rate of CO 2 supply, select the diameter of the wick.

The release of gas from a container with soda. Acid supply by gravity through a capillary or wick.

As in a free-flow yeast generator, the pressure inside the generator is itself maintained so that gas is supplied to the depth of the aquarium. Usually no more than 1 m of water column.

Design

The final (to date) design of the CO 2 generator will be described at the end of the page. First, I will tell you which options have been tested, what their advantages and disadvantages are.

For ease of experimentation, maintenance and adjustment, it is better to place acid and soda in separate containers connected by tubes.

generator circuit

It is convenient to use Coca-Cola bottles as containers
• 1 or 2 liters for soda solution - 70 g of soda per 700 ml of water
• 0.5 liters for citric acid solution - 50 g of acid per 250 ml of water

There is a check valve on the pressure equalization tube so that when disassembling the structure, acid does not leak out of this tube.

The air tube valve is used as a flow regulator. We adjust the acid supply to ensure the required CO 2 flow. The supply of acid is visible by the falling drops. The correct delivery rate is 1 drop in 5-20 seconds. If you use soda in excess, then, knowing the concentration of citric acid and the size of the drop, you can estimate the number of drops to obtain the required amount of CO 2. The lower the concentration of the citric acid solution, the more accurately the production of carbon dioxide can be controlled.

If the drop size is approximately 3 mm, then 1 drop of a 10% citric acid solution gives 1 cc. carbon dioxide.

The operating time from one refill depends on the rate of the chemical reaction that you have selected and on the volume of solutions. Knowing the volume of the acid solution, you can estimate the time of acid consumption by the size and frequency of droplets falling.

The valve regulator can be used to turn off the generator at night. In order not to disturb the setting of the regulator tap, you can use a second tap or clamp to turn off the generator, and use the regulator tap only for adjustment. To automatically turn off the generator, a solenoid valve can be installed on the acid supply tube.

I currently use a sprayer as a reactor for dissolving CO 2 in water.

Unlike the yeast generator, the new generator (1) has the ability to regulate CO 2 production, (2) it is possible to turn off the generator, and (3) there is no mash smell.

Unlike a pressure generator, the requirements for tightness have been reduced, since there is no high pressure. Thanks to this (1) a safety valve is not needed, (2) cans with wide lids can be used, and not just Coca-Cola bottles. (3) A simple acid supply valve can be used instead of a fine adjustment valve. In addition, in the new generator the supply of acid to soda is visible, and (4) the rate of supply of acid can be adjusted by the number of drops.

To ensure that there is no loss of CO 2 due to leaks, a bubble counter can be used.

To avoid using a tee, you can install a CO 2 exhaust tube in the cap of a soda bottle.

If you have made a gravity generator and have achieved stable CO 2 production, but you want to improve the design even further, you can try to remove the tubes between the acid and soda cans altogether.

Simplified design

A simplified generator consists of a wide can for soda and a plastic bottle for citric acid. The bottle is glued with sealant on top (or bottom) to the lid of the jar.

To supply acid to soda by gravity, a 1-3 mm hole is made in the bottom of the bottle. By selecting the diameter of the hole, or inserting a capillary (thread, match) into it, you can ensure the required rate of CO 2 production. The reason for using a capillary is that the sealant and plastic may not wet well. Because of this, an air plug forms in the hole. In addition, the capillary allows the use of almost any available tube. Without it, you would have to select the diameter of the tube, which is not so easy.

The air lock problem is simplified if you use a pressure equalization tube. In this case, measures must be taken to ensure that the acid does not flow out too quickly, for example, the tube for the acid to flow out should be thinner.

If you use a piece of a ballpoint pen or a piece of a cotton swab tube as a tube, then a “dental brush” is suitable as a capillary. It holds well when pushed into the tube to any depth. By choosing the depth of installation of the brush, you can adjust the rate of acid supply and the corresponding rate of carbon dioxide production. If the tube is poorly wetted, you can use a brush and thread at the same time.

Unlike a system with tubes, in a simplified generator you need to make settings before starting work. Since the operation of the system does not depend on pressure, when setting up, selecting tubes and capillaries, you don’t have to close the lid of the bottle with acid. When setting up the system, use a small amount of working concentration solutions. Once the stability of CO 2 production has been established, you can pour a full dose of solutions and connect the system to the aquarium.

To turn off the gas supply in a simplified system, you can use a triple tap (or tee + tap) on the CO 2 tube, as is done in a yeast generator. You open the tap at night, and the gas comes out not into the aquarium, but into the room. At the same time, the generator continues to operate.

Internal CO 2 generator

What if, after mastering the “simplified generator”, you want further simplifications, for example, you want to abandon the tubes altogether. Then, instead of the tube coming out of the top bottle, insert a sprayer, attach a weight to the bottom of a wide jar, place a new, even simpler generator directly into the aquarium, and place an inverted plastic tray above it (a bell for dissolving CO 2). As a weight, you can glue a copper disk or a stainless steel disk with sealant from the outside to the bottom of the jar. It’s simpler, but less beautiful, to put stainless steel balls or nails in a jar.

I also like this design because if there are leaks somewhere, the escaping carbon dioxide will not go to waste. Everything will fall into the bell and be dissolved in water as needed.

Unlike an internal dry component generator

in the new design, leaks cannot lead to explosive CO 2 production.

It must be said that a large amount of CO 2 can be obtained in our generator. If you make a submersible generator with a pressure compensation tube, lay it on its side and hold it (if you don’t hold it, it will stand upright, like a tumbler), then the components can flow through the pressure compensation tube. We will get a large amount of CO 2 and a rapid increase in pressure in the tank. A lot of CO 2 will be released into the aquarium for some time. If the outlet to the sprayer is flooded from the inside, then a solution of citric acid will flow into the aquarium through the sprayer. I cannot imagine that such a confluence of unfortunate events occurred by chance or as a result of carelessness.

We looked at quite a few options for non-pressure CO 2 generators using a solution of soda and citric acid. In addition to advantages, these designs have disadvantages. (1) When using a large Coca-Cola bottle, the generator is unstable because at low CO 2 pressure, the pressure in this bottle is sensitive to the pressure and temperature in the room. (2) The use of a check valve on the pressure compensation tube, as well as the entry of liquid into this tube, leads to a slight decrease in pressure in the acid container compared to the soda container. This may cause problems with acid leakage. (3) Generators without pressure compensation run the risk of instability due to air lock.

Due to the high operating pressure, the “pressure generator” does not have these disadvantages. It is little sensitive to the effects of surface tension and fluctuations in external temperature and pressure.

Stable free-flow internal CO 2 generator

We use a fairly rigid container. We provide pressure equalization without a tube or check valve. Finally, the gun that was hanging on the wall in the first act must fire

- use a wick instead of a tube to supply the acid solution to the soda.

Place a weight at the bottom of the container. The acid container, which is not sealed at the top, should be almost full. The amount of soda solution must be made so that the bottom of the jar with acid touches the surface of the soda. Because of this, the number of solutions in this experimental design cannot be large. The wick should reach from the bottom of the container with acid to the surface of the soda.

The wick in the photo ensured stable operation of the generator for 3 hours. After 3 hours, the acid and soda levels were equal. This does not depend on the concentration of the solutions, but depends only on the capillary properties of the wick. Probably, by reducing the width of the capillary by 3 times, you can get 9 hours. It is not obvious that the dependence of acid consumption on the capillary cross-section is linear, and it is better to check it experimentally.

If a “bell” is used to dissolve CO 2, then there is little point in using a sprayer. It is enough to make a 0.5 mm hole in the lid, for example, with a needle.

So far I have been experimenting with weak solutions. 2-3 grams of soda and acid per 1 filling. If you increase the concentration, and also if you select better containers, you can get such a device to work for several days.

In the next example, the acid container was also not sealed (without a lid), but thanks to the wide lid of the soda container, it was possible to place more solutions inside this CO 2 generator. Solutions containing 1 teaspoon each of soda and citric acid were used.

compact generator

This design, with a more compact placement of the container with acid inside the container with soda, worked for 4 days on one gas station. By reducing the cross-section of the wick and increasing the concentration of solutions, it is probably possible to achieve a duration of 1-2 weeks.

A 1 liter square glass jar with a rubber seal was used. Inside it were 2 transparent plastic cups (the bottoms of the bottles). The size of the glass with the acid solution is 150 ml.

This generator produced CO 2 for a long time and stably, but it was inconvenient to disassemble and impossible to turn off.

After experimenting, I began to understand something, and learned to calculate something. The time has come to create a gravity-fed carbon dioxide generator that can operate for months and that automatically turns off when the aquarium lights are turned off.

How to make a carbon dioxide generator?

There are various methods for producing CO2. In the most general form, they can be divided into chemical and biological. Often an aquarist purchases a balloon system and does not bother creating a generator.

1. In chemical synthesis reactors to produce carbon dioxide, solids are exposed to solutions of acids and alkalis.

The most popular components and reactions are: CaCO3 (chalk, limestone) + CH3COOH (acetic acid) => (CH3COO)2Ca + CO2 + H2O The reaction rate depends on the concentration of calcium carbonate in chalk or limestone, the density and porosity of the mineral. NaHCO3 (soda) + CH3COOH (acetic acid) => CH3COONa + CO2 + H2O NaHCO3 (soda) + HOOC-CH2-(OH-)C(-COOH)-CH2-COOH (citric acid) => NaOOC-CH2-( OH-)C(-COONa)-CH2-COONa + CO2 + H2O

In rare cases, inorganic acids (HCl, H2SO4, HNO3) are used. Among the chemical generators that have found application in aquarium plant growing are geysers and modifications of the Kipp apparatus [1].

Geysers are dry powder generators. Crystalline citric acid and soda are pre-mixed, and the reaction is initiated by steam or dropwise addition of water [2].

The first geysers consisted of a small medicine bottle and a lid into which a nebulizer was hermetically inserted. Releasing 1-2 bubbles per second, they were completely submerged under water and could work for up to 8-10 hours without recharging. Actually, the name “geyser” is given for the similarity of the bubbling generator with an underwater hilly geyser.

Later, the design was refined, and the name “geyser” was assigned to all underwater generators. Their advantage is relative stability at an initial stable humidity. The performance of geysers depends on the initial loading volume, but this will not affect the duration of operation.

Improved versions have moistened material at the bottom followed by a layer of reagent. Thus, water flows under the mixture and, during the reaction, erodes the impermeable crust that tends to form on the surface of the reagents.

Chemical composition

The benefits and harms of alder fruits are explained by their chemical composition. Mature tree cones contain many useful substances. Namely:

• tannins;
• tannins;
• flavonoids;
• gallic acid;
• steroids;
• terpenoids;
• fixed oils;
• chlorogenic acid;
• protocatechuic acid.

When properly processed, buds can be beneficial for many inflammatory diseases and metabolic disorders.

In transit through Kazakhstan

Biologists of the Federal Research Center for Integrated Study of the Arctic named after Academician N.P. Laverov of the Ural Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences (Arkhangelsk) discovered the presence in rivers and lakes of Chinese toothless beetles of the genus Sinanodonta (scientific names Sinanodonta lauta and Sinanodonta woodiana), which are unusual for Russian reservoirs, reported the press service of the Russian Ministry of Education and Science.

These are giant mollusks - their shells can reach the size of a soup plate (20–25 cm in diameter). The facts of invasions were confirmed during expeditions in 2017–2019 and analysis of collected materials. Species of mollusks new to domestic freshwater ecosystems were apparently imported from Kazakhstan along with fish planting material by fish breeding enterprises.

mollusk

Photo: commons.wikimedia.org

They also got there along with fish. It is known that in the period of the 1960–1970s, silver carp, carp and Amur goby inhabited the water bodies of the Kazakh SSR. Chinese toothless moths were first discovered in Lake Balkhash in 1973.

Gold machinations: 1.7 thousand km of rivers are polluted due to precious metal mining

Environmentalists have expanded space monitoring of water bodies in Siberia and the Far East

Arkhangelsk scientists have collected genetic data confirming that the toothless came to Kazakhstan from China: Sinanodonta woodiana - from the Yangtze River basin, Sinanodonta lauta - from the Songhua, a Chinese tributary of the Amur.

It is unknown how many fish farms in Russia are currently contaminated with alien mollusks, but the number could be in the dozens. In 2021, these large Far Eastern toothless fish were also discovered in the Volga. Analysis of the age of collected mollusks based on annual shell growth rings shows that the invasion in the river could have begun in the first half of the 2000s. If in the Yenisei and Ob, these toothless beetles live locally in areas heated by the waters of thermal power plants, then in the Volga they were able to naturalize under natural conditions and multiply in huge numbers.

Contraindications to the use of alder cones

The medicinal properties and contraindications of alder cones are closely related to each other. Sometimes infertility can harm the body. You must avoid using them in any form:

• during pregnancy and breastfeeding;
• with a tendency to constipation;
• with sluggish digestion;
• for individual allergies;
• in acute pancreatitis or open gastric ulcer.

Alder cones are offered to children only after 12 years of age. It is necessary to use decoctions and infusions in strict accordance with recipes in small dosages. If constipation, nausea and mild dizziness develop while using alder cones, stop taking the medications immediately.

Nutrition

The food for the toothless fish is plankton contained in the water. These are protozoa, crustaceans. These also include pathogenic microbes and pathogenic organisms that cause fish diseases.

Thanks to the gills and the inner sides of the mantle folds, covered with cilia, the toothless fish draws in water through the lower siphon - a small hole. Water with “food” enters the mouth, located near the base of the leg, and then into the digestive system. Then it flows out through the upper siphon. In this way, the mollusk both feeds and purifies the water.